hypothetical range question..

Tommy L said:
Here's another "Real World" ride from my ride yesterday.

Using a BIONX (which is efficient system) It's pulses on your in-between 180 degree strokes, on my Catrike 700
(a three wheeled recumbent).....
I used 9 watt hours per km and that was with me giving her hard averaging 30-40kph. Very windy on the return
portion. You will need a 1kw pack using 100% dod (depth of discharge) to travel 100kms. It was cooler yesterday
and I was riding in 18C. When doing this same trip at 28C I use approx. 7 watt hours per km (air density)

On an upright bicycle you will use more energy.

If your heart is set on electric for this distance and you don't want to spend money on insurance, then
consider purchasing an electric scooter and put some lithium in it. The scooter should be able to handle
the weight of your battery pack. Jam 2kw in there :) Your BUTT will be more happy
travelling for 3 hours :) When ever you can spread your weight per square inch over a larger surface,
the distances trips are more bearable. Yes, you can pedal, but not likely on those scooters. Ypedal would say:
"why pedal" lol :)

You can Hot Rod the Scooter, but wear a Pink jacket and helmet and no one will notice
that you are going faster than 32km ;) Just kidding! :)

Tommy L sends.....
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Wind resistance is more significant than changes in air density that accompany different temperatures. If you're going to be fighting significant headwinds (Like upto 15-20mph), I'd say adding 30%, or reducing 30% where appropriate, would add a pretty good margin for winds and adverse riding conditions.

What I usually do in windy conditions is go slower and pedal more.
 
swbluto said:
Wind resistance is more significant than changes in air density that accompany different temperatures. If you're going to be fighting significant headwinds (Like upto 15-20mph), I'd say adding 30%, or reducing 30% where appropriate, would add a pretty good margin for winds and adverse riding conditions.

What I usually do in windy conditions is go slower and pedal more.

30%? on an upright bicycle at 50km speed I've notice double the wattage with a headwind.
Possibly 30% sounds about right if you are going slower. :)

Tommy L sends....
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just did about 10km in 40mins. some headwind, and a few hills. plus some stop signs and lights. maybe 10kmh headwind? dont know how to judge that well. riding the donor bike, in single speed (dont have shifters) at 32:15 teeth ratio.
 
Tommy L said:
swbluto said:
Wind resistance is more significant than changes in air density that accompany different temperatures. If you're going to be fighting significant headwinds (Like upto 15-20mph), I'd say adding 30%, or reducing 30% where appropriate, would add a pretty good margin for winds and adverse riding conditions.

What I usually do in windy conditions is go slower and pedal more.

30%? on an upright bicycle at 50km speed I've notice double the wattage with a headwind.
Possibly 30% sounds about right if you are going slower. :)

Tommy L sends....
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Oh yeah, I guess I'm just spoiled by my recumbent. It cuts through wind like a knife through butter.
 
swbluto said:
Oh yeah, I guess I'm just spoiled by my recumbent. It cuts through wind like a knife through butter.

Yes! I have a Catrike 700 and the wind is barely noticeable ;)
But I also have an FS Mountain for commuting. What a difference in consumption! :D 8)

Tommy L sends.....
 
8km, negligible headwinds, no hills, no full stops: 20mins.
 
i would love a recumbent trike, but cost is prohibitive, as far as i have seen. would be amazing for what im doing though... gotta keep an eye out for deals...
 
muffinman said:
i would love a recumbent trike, but cost is prohibitive, as far as i have seen. would be amazing for what im doing though... gotta keep an eye out for deals...

The more laidback 2-wheel recumbents work pretty well. If you wait long enough, there's a good deal that comes around every once in a while on craigslist, you can pick up the better ones for anywhere between $300-500.

circlevillebentPicture095.jpg


I got mine by spotting a good deal on eBay. It seems like people in my area don't want to give up their good recumbents, lol, so I used ebay. It took a while, though... a month.

I have a recumbent trike and I personally dislike them because riding on the sidewalk is more precarious and they seem more vulnerable in traffic being lower to the ground. They're fine for recreational path riding, but I don't like to use them in the city.

If you're planning on buying a ton of batteries with an upright, you might save more in the long-run with a recumbent and less batteries. A good recumbent can easily cut the minimum battery costs in half over an upright to meet ones speed/range demands.
 
never have tried a 2 wheeled recumbent, but they scare me. i cant fathom how to balance on one
 
Looks like it would be hard, but it's not. The one I rode once steered funny, but other than that it balanced very normal.

You done any rides all the way? With a regular bike, you will want padded crotch pants, and some lube. And even then 90K in the saddle will require some toughening of the taint, and just the right saddle. Pedaling hard helps, since you end up standing the pedals with 90% of your weight.

For that kind of distance, I'd love a bent myself. At about 40 miles, I want off, but by 60 miles I'm just numb.
 
dogman said:
At about 40 miles, I want off, but by 60 miles I'm just numb.
i hear that. at the end of 20km, i was getting sore. not unbearably so, but i know another 80 wouldnt be in the cards with my current set up. multiple adjustments to be made, along with a better seat. and breaks on the trip lol.
 
Toughen up some, with 40k rides before doing the big one then. I wasn't sure if you were already a big rider or not. This is part of why I recommended getting just one ping, solving your short trip transportation needs and trying out the ebike, before sinking a ton of cash into a second pack.

For sure, do not try to ride 90k with pants that have a big fat seam in the center. The trick I like, is to go to a thrift store and get bike shorts. Rip the pad out of them, and hand stitch the pad into some comfy regular pants or shorts. That way you don't have to have the lycra look, but you get protection from that damn seam in jeans. Bike shorts as underwear works of course, but I just don't like tight pants.

The more miles you ride, the more you come to appreciate the somewhat narrow saddles, rather than a big wide cruiser saddle that chafes the side of the thigh. The harder you pedal, the less you sit much weight on the saddle. Personally, I like the saddles with a small notch down the top that lets some air in there. I ride in a very hot climate.
 
dogman said:
Personally, I like the saddles with a small notch down the top that lets some air in there. I ride in a very hot climate.

I believe that notch is also a taint saver by design ;)

Tommy L sends.....
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i read sheldon browns take on saddles. dispelled a few myths. the saddle on the cannondale is the narrowest saddle ive used. i was certain it was going to be murder, but turned out to be surprisingly comfortable. seat height needs adjustment, as im way too low, but its currently a tad stuck. will blast it with penetrant today. going to work on comfort adjustment for now, and test it weekly on that 40km route i did.
i agree dogman, im not going to drop the cash on a second or larger pack till i can test the bike/motor/battery in real world senarios first.
TAINT SAVER FTW! actually, im not a fan, at least of the one i have.
 
Seat angle is important as well.
Also, the correct "Crank" length too! There is a method of measuring your inseam to determine Crank Length :)
If you are going to be on that bicycle for 3 hours, you should have it set up perfect for your dimensions ;)

Tommy L sends....
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