I need a bit of guidance.......

[Viraty]

I fried my controller by opening it up with it still holding a charge (im ok)
Specs:
Controller:48V 2000W (factory)

Motor: 48V 2000W (factory)

Battery:60V 20Ah 1200Wh (repurposed from a electric moped)

I did not convert it, previous owner did.

I looked online and the exact model of controller is out of stock (has been for 2 weeks)

but there is a "Type B" controller with the same specs, same connectors and will work with factory motor. How can i safely test the controller to see if it mates with my battery without burning it? I am planning to opening it to up see if the capacitors are the same, is there anything else i should look for?

The 48V controller (dead one) has ran with the 60V battery for over 6 month with no issue.

EDIT: Just found a 60V controller that looks the same, Will it fry my 48V motor

 

[AGS]

You stated in your 1st post that you have a 60 volt battery.

One of the usual problems with running a higher voltage battery with a lower voltage controller is the capacitors aren’t rated at a high enough voltage.

So if you look at the voltage rating of the capacitors on your fried controller you will be able to determine if they are capable of being used with a higher voltage battery.

One of the other problems with using a higher voltage battery with a basic lower voltage controller is the low voltage cut off is too low for the battery and the controller won’t cut off if the battery voltage gets too low. This can be mitigated by the battery BMS. But you say your battery is repurposed, so do you know if it has a BMS fitted?

Also if you are using a display then it needs to be compatible with the controller or it won’t work.

It will be helpful if you can post a photo or provide the details of your fried controller and display if you have one.

 

[eee291]

I could help if I knew more about the controller and battery, like model or a few pictures etc.

 

[Viraty]

I could help if I knew more about the controller and battery, like model or a few pictures etc.

Imma pull out the Megascope. Im in sweden dont know if .se works where you are

 

[Viraty]

Imma pull out the Megascope. Im in sweden dont know if .se works where you are

controller I´m running https://www.sxt-scooters.de/en/Spare-parts/SXT-Monster/Controller-48-V-2000-W.html

controller that is similar at same voltage: Elektronikbox 48V 2000W till EV Ultra Typ B

Controller that is 60V (Not sure if its compatible with a the 48V motor) : Elektronikbox 2000W 60V Nitrox Elscooter - Borstlös Typ B

The battery: Batteri | Vässla Scooter ( remade the connector to be C14)

 

[Viraty]

You stated in your 1st post that you have a 60 volt battery.

One of the usual problems with running a higher voltage battery with a lower voltage controller is the capacitors aren’t rated at a high enough voltage.

So if you look at the voltage rating of the capacitors on your fried controller you will be able to determine if they are capable of being used with a higher voltage battery.

One of the other problems with using a higher voltage battery with a basic lower voltage controller is the low voltage cut off is too low for the battery and the controller won’t cut off if the battery voltage gets too low. This can be mitigated by the battery BMS. But you say your battery is repurposed, so do you know if it has a BMS fitted?

Also if you are using a display then it needs to be compatible with the controller or it won’t work.

It will be helpful if you can post a photo or provide the details of your fried controller and display if you have one.

Not much to show when it comes to the controller, I did not fry the caps, i fried the chip. All of the caps in the old one hold their rating. The battery does have a built in BMS. I have a display that i jerry rigged. It reads speed from the one of the phase wires. I know the display will work (If it does not i have a phone to use)

Thanks!

EDIT: I am tired, I meant to type 48V motor instead of 48V battery. Sorry for missunderstanding.

 

[eee291]

Soooo. In a bit confused here, is your battery really 60v?
I think you need to check the battery voltage when fully charged or look at the battery charger.
I'm having a hard time believing that a 60v max controller (usually the case) is running with 70+v without issues.

As for the motor, if the battery is the same and controller power is similar then it doesn't matter what is says on the controller, 60v, 48v whatever.
I'm sure the motor could probably even take 72v without issues.

 

[slaphappygamer]

The controller that you at running has LVC of 39v, for 48v battery. The 60v controller has LVC 49v, for 60v battery. You’d have to keep your 48v battery charged over 49v, always, to avoid low voltage cutoff. Your system will shut down when voltage sag happens as your 48v battery sags below 49 volts.

 

[Viraty]

Soooo. In a bit confused here, is your battery really 60v?
I think you need to check the battery voltage when fully charged or look at the battery charger.
I'm having a hard time believing that a 60v max controller (usually the case) is running with 70+v without issues.

As for the motor, if the battery is the same and controller power is similar then it doesn't matter what is says on the controller, 60v, 48v whatever.
I'm sure the motor could probably even take 72v without issues.

Don't know much abt the batteries but on the label its saying "60V 20Ah 1200Wh" Charger is at 60V

 

[Viraty]

The controller that you at running has LVC of 39v, for 48v battery. The 60v controller has LVC 49v, for 60v battery. You’d have to keep your 48v battery charged over 49v, always, to avoid low voltage cutoff. Your system will shut down when voltage sag happens as your 48v battery sags below 49 volts.

Ye, can i use the 60V controller with my 48V motor or do i need to use the 48V controller?

 

[E-HP]

Ye, can i use the 60V controller with my 48V motor or do i need to use the 48V controller?

The motor doesn't care what voltage it gets, but will run faster at 60V than at 48V. The controller cares about what voltage it's run at. Most 48V controllers can be run at 52V, but wouldn't work with a 60V battery if the FETs or caps aren't rated for the higher voltage.

 

[slaphappygamer]

Yes. I would use a 48v controller. If you had a 60v battery, then use the 60v controller.