I need help, as i dont have anywhere to ask, and no one to help me

Davidcroatia said:
Now im done, the controller broke down. Im gonna write some stuff please try to answer them, as im gonna order new controller, and i need you to understand.
1. question; i have this controller with kt 3 lcd monitor : kt 36 48 svprcl 30a , the seller that sold it to me said to me to program it like this
lim 70 kmh,dim 26, unt0, p1 46, p2 0, p3 1, p4 0 , p5 15, c1 2 , c2 0, c3 8, c4 0, c5 10, c6 3, c7 0, c8 0, c9 0, c10 n, c11 0 , c12 4, c13 2, c14 2 , l1 0, l2 0, l3 1, l4 5. as stated controller has max current of 0amp , nominal power 500w, max power 1600w

did programming hepled with this controller to use constantly 1500w ? controller is here on this link https://nexun.pl/czesci-do-e-bike/kt36-48svprc-36-48v-30a-sinus . im running this controller on qs motor 1000w .

2. would this controller be a good replacement ?? https://nexun.pl/czesci-do-e-bike/kt48svprc-48v-45a-sinus please help me as i really need to continue to work ... btw im using 2 batteries, one is 40amp 48v 24.5ah, and the othher 50amp 48v 20ah.
Click to expand...
Can you tell me what these parammeters even mean ?
 
Davidcroatia said:
Now im done, the controller broke down.
Click to expand...

Here's a simple hint from someone who's been dabbling in e-bike stuff for more than 20 years:

If you need it to work all the time, don't mess with it. Get components that are intended to work together, get them working together, and then leave them alone, undisturbed, as long as they're still working.

If you have the urge to enhance, upgrade, or hot rod your ride, get another ride for that. That one is allowed to break down because you f***ed with it, and you can still get to your job on time with your regular, unmolested bike.
 
I bought this off a guy, so i didnt had many info about all, bow i need to program it in wensday so i can go back to work
 
I have had 03 motor hall sensor abnormality, maybe the motor is dead, plus when i coneccted the battery, it showed a short cirquit , i taped the video .https://youtu.be/iJXeCSOVusk
 
https://ibb.co/1sF4c3p
https://ibb.co/6BTDTWk
https://ibb.co/VY1yq2D
https://ibb.co/jw2qSCw controller was throwing a spark when connected to a battery
 
Davidcroatia said:
Why does it spark
Click to expand...
A simple forum search on "spark" turned up several posts, the first two are yours and the third includes the answer. You may wish to try the search before posting questions, since I noticed most of your questions can be answered in this way. Or as suggested before, read the stickies at the top of the forum.
Hint: When it becomes obvious that you are not using the information and tools available to you on this forum, or investing some of your own time to research and understand, then it is likely people will get frustrated attempting to help you, and stop.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=spark
 
But i have an antispark connector and that shouldnt be happening. Btw controller is saying 03 error code, so it could be hall sensor in the motor, if that is the case when the new controller comes im giving up 1000%
 
Davidcroatia said:
But i have an antispark connector and that shouldnt be happening. Btw controller is saying 03 error code, so it could be hall sensor in the motor, if that is the case when the new controller comes im giving up 1000%
Click to expand...
Maybe do a search on how an anti-spark connector works. It's clear in your video that you aren't using the anti-spark feature by touching the bare wire to the already connected XT90's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJXeCSOVusk&feature=youtu.be

Ebikes appear to be a source of constant frustration for you. They aren't for everybody. Maybe switch to a gas engine?
 
Impossible, im a student, permit is around 1500€ , good thing in this all is i decided to preorder nuculus with foc function, if on wensday my controller arrives and if it works, im gonna need to configure it, if i use same setting on this controller as on old one, will i get the same effect? Thanks
 
If you have a hall sensor fault, it is unlikely that your controller is fried. Test the halls at motor exit, and if one is not returning a signal, open the motor and check the wiring before ordering replacement Honeywell hall sensors. Sometimes it is only a rubbing damage to a small wire. Easy to replace halls, with heat grade epoxy or JB weld. One fried, replace all three of them.

Anti spark is not a must. The spark is from rush charging capacitors demanding a lot of power for fraction of a second. It does pit the connector but doesn’t damage the controller. Big connectors can take the connection spark for years, so does the controller, all of them that I have had at least.
 
Im not so frustrated, i like electronics, just parts are problem, shipping, and im battling with severe sleep apnea for which they dont wanna give me apparatus so thats why im telling some stuff recklesly
 
Im in europe is this good option? I mean does one hall fits all? https://uk.farnell.com/honeywell/ss441a/sensor-hall-effect-70g-unipolar/dp/3111477 btw seller told me if i open the motor its not watertight anymore
 
I started taking off the insulation from contr wires, yyellow , blue and green are very dark, not copper color, but dark. https://ibb.co/9VbXDcw
https://ibb.co/HKWn9bt
https://ibb.co/MNKMQMz
 
Davidcroatia said:
Im in europe is this good option? I mean does one hall fits all? https://uk.farnell.com/honeywell/ss441a/sensor-hall-effect-70g-unipolar/dp/3111477 btw seller told me if i open the motor its not watertight anymore
Click to expand...

Did you test the hall sensors first as MadRhino suggested?
 
Nope because i dont have currently multimeter, and i opened controller the first day, because the code i missknowledged as bad controller , as soon as my friend returns from seaside im gonna ask him to borrow me multimeter but i dont know really how to use it i will google it. Ps maybe tommorow i go to his brother house and see maybe he has multimeter. Ps if the wires are burnt feom the controller side could that mean something? Because on the motor side they are clean. And about watertight motor, if i open it once then waterproofnes is gone ? Thanks a lot
 
Davidcroatia said:
Nope because i dont have currently multimeter, and i opened controller the first day, because the code i missknowledged as bad controller , as soon as my friend returns from seaside im gonna ask him to borrow me multimeter but i dont know really how to use it i will google it. Ps maybe tommorow i go to his brother house and see maybe he has multimeter. Ps if the wires are burnt feom the controller side could that mean something? Because on the motor side they are clean. And about watertight motor, if i open it once then waterproofnes is gone ? Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Not something to be concerned about. You said if you find out the halls are bad, you are "giving up 1000%", so you'll never need to open it in the first place. Plus, none of these motors are waterproof, and since the seller has been of no help so far, not sure why you're still listening to him.
 
In Croatia a lot of people are not enlighted about ebikes, not sure why, but maybe 1% now anything about it, and that 1% cost money . My goal is leaf 1500w and im gonna take nucular, but i need to get money for it. Upp has a great frame plastic battery with sanyo ga 48v 31.5ah and that would be enough for like 70km on single charge so i will in the future if i solve this, buy that kit , and most importantly with cassette adapter. What hall sensors shoulf i order so they get there ? 10 euros is not much if i ever need them, are all hall sensors cross compatible ?
 
You need to buy a volt/multimeter. Nobody that owns and works on an ebike should be without one. All of those 1% guys; they all have them. Get it before buying anything else. Why risk frying your new components? If you don't get one, then just pay the 1% for their services.
 
Davidcroatia said:
In Croatia a lot of people are not enlighted about ebikes, not sure why, but maybe 1% now anything about it...
Click to expand...

It is the same everywhere. Croatia is not behind, in fact it is pretty advanced in EV development. One of ES member from long ago is from Zagreb, Croatia, and was involved in early development of powerful ebikes. The company name, I recall, is Zelena Vozila.
 
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