I Nuked my BGX
- Thread starter biknut
- Start date
I finally got the last part I was waiting for, so now I can finish hooking up the rest of the controls, and lights. I think I'm on top of the rest of the wiring, throttle, brake cutouts, kill switch, and lights. The part I'm dreading is the set up. The set up manual is 30 pages, half of which I barely understand what they're talking about. I did find evidence I can operate my brake light if I can figure out how to enable it.
I'm guessing PWM P1, and P2 are 101, 102.
From here on it should get more interesting.
I'm guessing PWM P1, and P2 are 101, 102.
From here on it should get more interesting.
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Tony01
100 W
Just remember you need an isolated power supply for the uLight if you use one because your lights draw more than the 3a or whatever its max is. I have used a regular 12v wall adapter 110vac right on the 72v for years even before my time with a nuc.
The total power consumption for my headlight and taillight combined should be about 1 amp or less. They're both LED, and I'm not running the day time driving light. I'm assuming the uLight can handle that, so I wasn't planning on needing a converter. I'm also assuming the uLight is protected for over current, so I didn't add an inline fuse for the lights.
There's still time for me to make changes. If I'm fixing to ride off a cliff, someone stop me before it's too late.
The BGX is reborn thanks to a lot o help I got from you guys. And since it's reborn I'm officially renaming it Bullwinkle. It's running well, but I'm probably try a couple different settings.
Suggestions are encouraged. Right now it's set for 80 battery amps, and 120 phase amps. The motor is 5000w. Controller is set for 80 amp. I'm not running regen at this time.
inkle.
Suggestions are encouraged. Right now it's set for 80 battery amps, and 120 phase amps. The motor is 5000w. Controller is set for 80 amp. I'm not running regen at this time.
inkle.I've tried lots of different power settings going as high as 220 ph amp. That makes it fly, but the motor gets hot pretty fast. In consideration of my limited capacity battery I'm running a conservative 80 amp, 160 ph amp, and 5000w limits. Nothing gets close to overheating set like this.
I think I've got most of the kinks ironed out now. I went on my first real cruise yesterday risking a long walk home in case of a failure. A couple of times I found myself riding in traffic, and that's no problemo now.
I think I've got most of the kinks ironed out now. I went on my first real cruise yesterday risking a long walk home in case of a failure. A couple of times I found myself riding in traffic, and that's no problemo now.
I'm really enjoying having so many adjustments. Never really had that before. It's like being ab[e to change the compression, cam timing, and exhaust pressure with the press of a button. It seems my battery is the limiting factor though. If I turn the power up too much the sag gets real high. I guess this is expected with a 4p pack lol. Knowing what I know now I should have bought the Molicel instead of 50s. Never the less, I'm happy with my results. As long as I keep the phase amps around 125a the sag is only about 4-5v. That's enough to give me more power than my Stealth had when it was new. 67 amps then vs about 77 amps now. Set like this I can keep up with traffic but still have decent range out of 20ah. Someday when I can build a stronger battery my bike is all set up to take advantage of it.
chuyskywalker
10 kW
Thanks for the suggestion .Suggestion: grab some of this wire loom to wrap up those cables to tidy up the appearance
What I've found is, amazingly my 4p battery can handle 5000w without excessive sag. It does 45 mph easily but I haven't tried to go faster than that. At this power level nothing seems to be getting stressed or hot.
, and I think I can still get about 40 mile range trying.
, and I think I can still get about 40 mile range trying.Uh oh, yesterday I was riding about 4 miles from home when my throttle quit working. Turning the bike on and off did nothing. One thing I learned is I'm going to have to go up to at least a 20T freewheel, this bike is beast with no powaa. When I got home I noticed the display was showing 500 degrees on the motor temp gauge. That seems kind of hot, but it felt cool as a cucumber. It normally runs about 115 degrees. When I checked it this morning nothing had changed, so I switched to the backup hall cable and the gauge went back to room temperature and the throttle works. I'm glad it was a sensor and not the controller.
Now I'm wondering if changing the to back up halls will require redoing the motor set up?
Now I'm wondering if changing the to back up halls will require redoing the motor set up?
MaxBicycleMax
1 W
Temperature comes off halls?
Or is the temperature thermistor?!? Embedded in the a hall?
Bummer anyway.
Or is the temperature thermistor?!? Embedded in the a hall?
Bummer anyway.
This is shocking news, but Honey I blew up the nuc.
Honestly I wasn't all that impressed with it anyway. It had plenty of power, and being able the program it through the display was nice, but that's about all it had going for it.
Now I'm running a Kelly Cheetah which is very similar to the nuc, except it has a much easier to see color display w/ can bus, and foc option. Because of limitations of my battery I'm only running 70 amps, so I don't need no stinkin 500 amp controller anyway. I finally finished tuning it, or more accurately detuning it last night. After that I let it rip once in traffic and had to let off the throttle or I would of slammed into the back of the car in front of me. Based on how fast it was accelerating at the time I'm pretty sure it will top out about 55 to 58 mph with no foc.
I was thinking the qs205 motor I'm running in my Stealth was the end all 5000w motor, but this no name 5000w fat bike motor feels stronger at all speeds even though it's rated with less Nm.
Honestly I wasn't all that impressed with it anyway. It had plenty of power, and being able the program it through the display was nice, but that's about all it had going for it.
Now I'm running a Kelly Cheetah which is very similar to the nuc, except it has a much easier to see color display w/ can bus, and foc option. Because of limitations of my battery I'm only running 70 amps, so I don't need no stinkin 500 amp controller anyway. I finally finished tuning it, or more accurately detuning it last night. After that I let it rip once in traffic and had to let off the throttle or I would of slammed into the back of the car in front of me. Based on how fast it was accelerating at the time I'm pretty sure it will top out about 55 to 58 mph with no foc.
I was thinking the qs205 motor I'm running in my Stealth was the end all 5000w motor, but this no name 5000w fat bike motor feels stronger at all speeds even though it's rated with less Nm.
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Tony01
100 W
How the heck did you blow the nuc??! They have a great deal of protections! Like how my motor smoked other [EXPENSIVE] controllers with a shorted winding but not the nuc!
Those don’t just blow by themselves. Most likely whatever caused it to blow was user error and would have caused any other controller to blow.
Talking trash or in this case downplaying a great controller after you blew it up just sounds like a desire for revenge.
I mean did you even use any feature of it not found on other controllers ?
Ever setup variable regen brake on a 2nd throttle?
Ever set it up with a password?
Ever use the converter function to charge your battery with any charger of a lower voltage?
Probably not!
Those don’t just blow by themselves. Most likely whatever caused it to blow was user error and would have caused any other controller to blow.
Talking trash or in this case downplaying a great controller after you blew it up just sounds like a desire for revenge.
I mean did you even use any feature of it not found on other controllers ?
Ever setup variable regen brake on a 2nd throttle?
Ever set it up with a password?
Ever use the converter function to charge your battery with any charger of a lower voltage?
Probably not!
I take full responsibility. What happened was a bolt on the rear brake rotor backed out and rubbed through the motor cable, shorting a phase wire to the halls which took out the controller and the motor. I was able to try it out it for about 3 weeks before that happened. Even before that happened the throttle would occasionally drop out. That started happening on the first test ride.
This my take. It had it's good points and bad. The good was it worked like a good controller should when it worked. It was nice to be able to program through the display.
The bad was the display was dim in daylight, and even at night hard to read because the info was so small. They need an old geezer version. Also bla looking with no color. The throttle only offered 3 choices, one which was useless for anything except drag racing. The other 2 weren't much different from each other but worked ok, nothing special though.
I've had much better luck with my Kelly. It works just as good. Has 5 curves for the throttle, all of which are useful, and easier to comprehend, and it never drops out. The color display is brighter, and easier for me to see. It's also foc, and can bus for less than half the price.
I originally bought the nuc for my Stealth, but installed an earlier version of the same Kelly during the 6 month wait for shipping, but by the time I got it I was liking the Kelly so much I put it on the shelf for the last 2 years. Nuc has since stopped offering my nuc model and changed to a SurRon body style that's big as a house.
I'm glad I got to try the nuc after hearing how great they're supposed to be, but for my money the Kelly is better. One last thing I'll say about the Kelly is this new version is so new not all the wiring options are available on the website. There's 2 ways to turn the controller on. Through the display, or through a key switch. When I contacted customer support, within minutes they sent me 2 wiring diagrams highlighting both choices.
FWIW, a properly designed controller would take into account that this is going to happen (guaranteed to happen to a significant percentage of systems over time), and have protections built in to prevent any controller or system damage.
I've posted elsewhere some simple and cheap solutions to the problem of mixing different voltages in one cable (the best one is "don't"), and of preventing backfeed of motor phase voltages into hall sensors or other encoders, etc. The ones I posted don't prevent damage to the motor itself (the sensors inside) but they would certainly stop any controller or system damage from that.
Some already implement protections against phase to phase shorts, but "none" (AFAIK) of the ebike, scooter, motorcycle controllers offer protection against phase to sensor or sensor supply wiring. (Somewhere around here is a sevcon thread about such a fault and the resulting unrepairable controller, so those don't have it either, unless they implemented it in the years since then).
Don't get me wrong, I'm not baggin on the nuc, I just feel like if you don't need 500 amps it's a waste of money. I can't tell that the nuc set for the same output works any better than my kelly.
I'm actually at a very good place with the way my BGX runs right now. My Stealth is a great bike, but for me me it lacks one major feature that the BGX has in spades, style.
I'm actually at a very good place with the way my BGX runs right now. My Stealth is a great bike, but for me me it lacks one major feature that the BGX has in spades, style.
Tony01
100 W
You didn’t need your rear disc brake with the nuc thanks to its variable regen braking that will skid the rear.
Joining their telegram group you coulda got somebody to make you a friendlier display…
The progress bars on the edges of the screen are pretty good to see remaining capacity with once you learn how to look at them.
If you look at the bottom left quartile you see the bar covering the whole edge with 3592wh which is my remaining capacity, almost the whole edge so almost full (3900wh). Top right controller temp bottom right motor temp.
Well yes, you have to make sure nothing gets cut up by the rotor bolts. This is a common problem, and usually people use a spacer. I fixed mine without getting the spacer, however. But mine also cut up my motor cables. It cut up my halls and I fixed the wiring however I still had a phase short within the coils of the motor from before and it did not smoke the nuke. To get around that I just had to run much lower power.
Joining their telegram group you coulda got somebody to make you a friendlier display…
The progress bars on the edges of the screen are pretty good to see remaining capacity with once you learn how to look at them.
If you look at the bottom left quartile you see the bar covering the whole edge with 3592wh which is my remaining capacity, almost the whole edge so almost full (3900wh). Top right controller temp bottom right motor temp.
Well yes, you have to make sure nothing gets cut up by the rotor bolts. This is a common problem, and usually people use a spacer. I fixed mine without getting the spacer, however. But mine also cut up my motor cables. It cut up my halls and I fixed the wiring however I still had a phase short within the coils of the motor from before and it did not smoke the nuke. To get around that I just had to run much lower power.
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