I Nuked my BGX

[biknut]

uLight,


This is the back of the display on the handle bars. The display and the uLight are parallel so you can connect to either or. But one difference is the uLight has a couple of 12v outputs.

 

[biknut]

This is where I'm at. I'm waiting for a julet plug for my headlight. That's going to allow me to use the stock wiring harness. I expect that to cut down on the final soldering quite a bit.

 

[biknut]

I finally got the last part I was waiting for, so now I can finish hooking up the rest of the controls, and lights. I think I'm on top of the rest of the wiring, throttle, brake cutouts, kill switch, and lights. The part I'm dreading is the set up. The set up manual is 30 pages, half of which I barely understand what they're talking about. I did find evidence I can operate my brake light if I can figure out how to enable it.

I'm guessing PWM P1, and P2 are 101, 102.


From here on it should get more interesting.

 

[biknut]

Today I made this wiring harness to connect my stock wiring to the uLight.

 

[Tony01]

Just remember you need an isolated power supply for the uLight if you use one because your lights draw more than the 3a or whatever its max is. I have used a regular 12v wall adapter 110vac right on the 72v for years even before my time with a nuc.

 

[biknut]

Just remember you need an isolated power supply for the uLight if you use one because your lights draw more than the 3a or whatever its max is. I have used a regular 12v wall adapter 110vac right on the 72v for years even before my time with a nuc.

The total power consumption for my headlight and taillight combined should be about 1 amp or less. They're both LED, and I'm not running the day time driving light. I'm assuming the uLight can handle that, so I wasn't planning on needing a converter. I'm also assuming the uLight is protected for over current, so I didn't add an inline fuse for the lights.

There's still time for me to make changes. If I'm fixing to ride off a cliff, someone stop me before it's too late.

 

[biknut]

I've finally soldered myself out of a job. It's all over but the programing. Lord help me.

 

[biknut]

The BGX is reborn thanks to a lot o help I got from you guys. And since it's reborn I'm officially renaming it Bullwinkle. It's running well, but I'm probably try a couple different settings.

Suggestions are encouraged. Right now it's set for 80 battery amps, and 120 phase amps. The motor is 5000w. Controller is set for 80 amp. I'm not running regen at this time.

inkle.

 

[biknut]

I've tried lots of different power settings going as high as 220 ph amp. That makes it fly, but the motor gets hot pretty fast. In consideration of my limited capacity battery I'm running a conservative 80 amp, 160 ph amp, and 5000w limits. Nothing gets close to overheating set like this.
I think I've got most of the kinks ironed out now. I went on my first real cruise yesterday risking a long walk home in case of a failure. A couple of times I found myself riding in traffic, and that's no problemo now.

 

[biknut]

I'm really enjoying having so many adjustments. Never really had that before. It's like being ab[e to change the compression, cam timing, and exhaust pressure with the press of a button. It seems my battery is the limiting factor though. If I turn the power up too much the sag gets real high. I guess this is expected with a 4p pack lol. Knowing what I know now I should have bought the Molicel instead of 50s. Never the less, I'm happy with my results. As long as I keep the phase amps around 125a the sag is only about 4-5v. That's enough to give me more power than my Stealth had when it was new. 67 amps then vs about 77 amps now. Set like this I can keep up with traffic but still have decent range out of 20ah. Someday when I can build a stronger battery my bike is all set up to take advantage of it.

 

[chuyskywalker]

Suggestion: grab some of this wire loom to wrap up those cables to tidy up the appearance

 

[biknut]

Suggestion: grab some of this wire loom to wrap up those cables to tidy up the appearance

Thanks for the suggestion .

 

[biknut]

What I've found is, amazingly my 4p battery can handle 5000w without excessive sag. It does 45 mph easily but I haven't tried to go faster than that. At this power level nothing seems to be getting stressed or hot.


, and I think I can still get about 40 mile range trying.

 

[biknut]

Uh oh, yesterday I was riding about 4 miles from home when my throttle quit working. Turning the bike on and off did nothing. One thing I learned is I'm going to have to go up to at least a 20T freewheel, this bike is beast with no powaa. When I got home I noticed the display was showing 500 degrees on the motor temp gauge. That seems kind of hot, but it felt cool as a cucumber. It normally runs about 115 degrees. When I checked it this morning nothing had changed, so I switched to the backup hall cable and the gauge went back to room temperature and the throttle works. I'm glad it was a sensor and not the controller.

Now I'm wondering if changing the to back up halls will require redoing the motor set up?

 

[MaxBicycleMax]

Temperature comes off halls?

Or is the temperature thermistor?!? Embedded in the a hall?

Bummer anyway.