Ibis Mojo HD and Bafang BBS02 marriage

[Abagrizzli]

Thank you, I appreciate your answers

What would you say, which one will be better:

This one - comes with kick-ass fat chain already, the smallest cog is 12t
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/sram-7-speed-mtb-cassette-chain/rp-prod127734

or this one
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/sram-pg970-9-speed-mtb-cassette-downhill/rp-prod57562

???

Which rear derailleur will work with them? I'm not sure what's "damped derailleur" is, but I'm familiar only with Shimano products until now, but Shimano doesn't offer less than 8 gears of substantial quality. And Shimano chains are lighter and less tough I think.

 

[cjh]

Adding another manual for the C695

 

[--freeride--]

I went with shimano 8 speed:

for example this cassette:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/de/de/shimano-acera-hg41-8-fach-mtb-kassette-/rp-prod68154 11:34 and did leave the 11T out

shifter:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/de/de/sram-x4-8-fach-triggerschalter-/rp-prod125423 or a similar gripshift for sram old 1:1. I god the throttle on the right side and want the shifter left.

derailleur:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/de/de/shimano-zee-m640-shadow-10-fach-schaltwerk-/rp-prod82431 or any other shimano shadow + shimano 10speed is 1:1 like the old sram stuff

The + means damped derailleur, so the chain stays where it should, even without chainguide.

I use shimano chains. I saw some tests, where shimano was much better than sram especialy the cheap shimano stuff was very good. So I rather buy 2 cheap 12$ chains than a 30$ one that lasts a little longer than the cheap one.

 

[Abagrizzli]

FINALLY!!!

After a long wait, and a few very stressful hours, the motor kit from em3ev has landed. The story of the import is hard and stressful, but I managed to manipulate the system, and the kit is here. The package is superb, so everything arrived safely. I have to say that Paul and his assistant Sandy were very helpful, and I will definitely have the address now for future purchases. The additional price (on aliexpress it costs less) worth the spend. Although the answer time is a bit frustrating - about 24 to 48 hours, but the answers always informative and helpful. This is a very important feature, since for me as a total noob this kind of a guidance was crucial.

All in all, em3ev HUGE THUMBS UP!!!

Now, almost all the ingredients are ready, except the headset which takes too long to my taste to arrive from US, and the stem, which I will be choosing after the wife will be riding the bike and we will figure out what's comfy for her.

The motor is much more sturdy and heavy-duty than I expected from the pics, but all of you must have known that. Now it feels while holding in hands like something that can make 40-50 kmh indeed.

The battery, custom made by Paul, is 255 x 72 x 82 mm, weighs in naked 2728 gr, which I think is exceptional. The attachment for now as I feel it will be good old designer duct tape elegant black I think maybe about inner tube as a between layer and so the battery wouldn't dance on the frame, and then duct tape. I have to think about other way of attachment though.

I will try to upload some pics later, just to show the overall process.

 

[Abagrizzli]

By the way, I'm going to use the manual from em3ev site for installation and some clips from youtube. Do you folks have any inputs concerning this?

 

[tln]

Woot! I'm looking forward to seeing some pics

 

[Abagrizzli]

Will do!

 

[Abagrizzli]

The project officially started.

Frame: Ibis Mojo HD Small White Blue Links
Wheels: Mavic 729 wide rims
Fork: X-Fusion Slant 160mm (tuned)
Rear shock: Fox Float RP 23 (will be tuned by our workshop)
Break rotors: Shimano XT 203/180
Handlebar: Truvativ Holzefeller 40mm rise
Stem: Truvativ Holzefeller 50mm
Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 2.5 front, Maxxis High Roller II 2.35 rear
Seatpost: KS Lev 125 TI
Saddle: Selle Italia

to be continued...

 

[--freeride--]

Perfekt colour sheme The frame seams to be perfekt for the BBS, downtube wiring.
Be carefull to get the wires past the side of the Motor without squeesing them to much. The motor should strut/puch against the downtube when it is mounted.

I prefer to wire everything perfect and do a loop under the bb there is space for wiring harness that you don't see if the bike stands up right.

You will have to grind of a bit from that threated nose that holds the mounting Plate on the leaft side. So that the motor swings up to the downtube and you don't hit the downtube with the nose and dent it if the motor comes loose and it will come loose a little after the first ride... That happend to me every time. So check the lock nut after the first rides and thighten it again.

 

[Abagrizzli]

Perfekt colour sheme The frame seams to be perfekt for the BBS, downtube wiring.
Be carefull to get the wires past the side of the Motor without squeesing them to much. The motor should strut/puch against the downtube when it is mounted.

Thanks )))
Actually, on this frame the derailleur and breaks cables go from sides, and not under the BB, as on most of the other bikes, so the motor shouldn't hit anything at all. I'll show it on later photos.

I prefer to wire everything perfect and do a loop under the bb there is space for wiring harness that you don't see if the bike stands up right.

Just to be clear that I understand you - you loop the motor wires around the BB, in order to keep the look clean? I will try that, if I understand that correctly. Although, for now the wires I see are too short, but I'll look into it after I start.

You will have to grind of a bit from that threated nose that holds the mounting Plate on the leaft side. So that the motor swings up to the downtube and you don't hit the downtube with the nose and dent it if the motor comes loose and it will come loose a little after the first ride... That happend to me every time. So check the lock nut after the first rides and thighten it again.

I think I know what you mean, according to your project. What you mean is ISCG. This frame does not have the ISCG (yu-huuuu!), so the motor should swing perfectly in place.

All in all, I think it was the best choice of the frame (not that I had other choices, being riding myself on same Mojo HD, and having the local Ibis dealer as long time supplier).

 

[Abagrizzli]

Here's the bottom bracket. As you may see, no ISCG - no cable squishing

Right side

Left side

Both of the Mojos

As suggested, I chose to go with the simplest SRAM 8-speed cassette (which drew a lot of laugh and anger from my fellow bike dealers - how Ibis will not tolerate this kind of treatment ) and the simplest SRAM X4 rear derailleur and shifter. After all things will work together, maybe I will upgrade it. Meanwhile, there is no real reason, before I tried.

 

[Abagrizzli]

Well, first problem is on.

The lower link nut interferes with the motor, not allowing to push it all the way to the frame. Here it is:

From another angle, a little bit clearer:

Which causes this gap on the other side of the BB:

First thought - to reduce it with a rasp. I'm not sure about suspension implications yet, but I think since the motor is in constant position and not moving, and the link also - there shouldn't be a problem, outside structural, if at all.

 

[Abagrizzli]

On the other hand, may be it's not the best idea, to compromise the suspension nut. Maybe I will try to solve it with spacers all around...

 

[Abagrizzli]

I think you may have issues fitting the bbs02 with the swing arm flaring out... I had the same issue and had to get a different front gear to fix clearance and alignment.

What kind of bottom bracket is it? How large are the existing front gears and how much clearance to the swingarm?

See, NOW I understand what you meant

Swingarm is cleared, the front chainring with the bashguard do not touch the swingarm with a lot of space. I think the chainline also will be OK, especially if the solution for the previous problem will be spacers.

Did anybody tried to install and run the motor shifted a little bit left with spacers?

 

[Abagrizzli]

I know I'm babbling with myself

In this video, it seems to me the guy had a similar problem, which he solved with spacers. So spacers it is, will try it tomorrow.

http://youtu.be/JG1qlKhg23Y?t=3m

 

[Abagrizzli]

Well, succeeded to solve the crank issue with spacers on the right side. The motor sits perfectly, the battery will be attached with Goriila tape - it's the best we can think of right now without making a major project out of it...

What would you wrap the battery into, before the Gorilla tape?

 

[--freeride--]

I hat the same problem on my girls frame, you can easly grind of 4mm from the Motor, so that it clears the suspension link thats what i would recommed exept you have a late and can make perfect spacers.

 

[Abagrizzli]

I hat the same problem on my girls frame, you can easly grind of 4mm from the Motor, so that it clears the suspension link thats what i would recommed exept you have a late and can make perfect spacers.

Yes, I decided instead of grinding or filing the nut or the motor, just to pretend it's 73mm BB, which means I can actually use spacers So we (my friend helps me with it) installed 3.5mm of spacers on the right side, so it cleared the nut, and the washers on the left side, like this:

The problem with spacers is that they are not conical, which means they do not press into the BB, which means theoretically, that only the pressure holds the motor in place. But we need to see how it works out in the reality. My great suspicion is that everything will work OK.

Tomorrow I will be installing the battery with all the wiring... Wish me luck Already have 2 rolls of Gorilla tape to secure everything in place. Like tln said in the beginning.

 

[DanGT86]

You might try bending a u-shaped channel out of coroplast to hold the battery. This might insulate it from light impact damage and mud or water spray. You could also stop by the hardware store and see if there are any plastic rain gutters that are about the correct size. If you are using tape it should make it pretty easy to come up with something.

That is a really nice looking bike!

 

[Abagrizzli]

You might try bending a u-shaped channel out of coroplast to hold the battery. This might insulate it from light impact damage and mud or water spray. You could also stop by the hardware store and see if there are any plastic rain gutters that are about the correct size. If you are using tape it should make it pretty easy to come up with something.

That is a really nice looking bike!

Thanks, Dan

Coroplast is a good idea, I will try to see if I can find one sturdy enough. Or just use the common soft coroplast, in any case it will be wrapped in Gorilla tape...

Rain gutters in Israel is not too common obviously, and I'm afraid not being sold in 25 cm cuts...

Actually, there's a lot of ideas, some of them are usable, but nothing beats a Cordura bag, tailored to measures, with some heavy duty velcro tapes... Need to find Cordura and velcro.

 

[DanGT86]

Rain gutters in Israel is not too common obviously, and I'm afraid not being sold in 25 cm cuts

Haha. You should put your location in your signature so i don't look dumb . That's funny.

 

[Abagrizzli]

Well, everything is in place, not tightened yet, the battery is charging. After the battery will be charged, I will try to start the whole thing. I like the connections, the whole thing is of high quality, and foolproof. Even for me it took no time to figure what goes where, and I did it for the first time, never dealt with wires and electricity (and ebike kits) before.

There is a minor problem with a chain line in first gears, but since it's 8-speed chain and 8-speed cassette - I don't think it will matter, because this set up is not supposed to be sensitive to this kind of stuff at all.

The photos will be tomorrow.

Concerning the battery attachment - working on it.

 

[Abagrizzli]

Well, everything is wired, up and working Just made a short run with it outside on a pavement - it's a blast and sheer joy.

All the wires are still hanging, need to find place for each and every one of them. Gorilla tape rules, it's so strong, that I'm actually tempted to leave the thing The only downside I see - it's too permanent, ugly and no place for the power switch.

Few problems still left:

1. Need to find place for the speed sensor. The fricking thing just donesn't find its place. The wire is too short to align it with the rear brake cable. Can't attach it on the lower side of the triangle also, 'cos in this case the magnet is not cleared when turning.

2. Definitely had to insert the main power cable from the motor to the battery between the motor and the frame. Now it is just hanging outside interfering with the link, the crank and the chainring ...

3. Gorilla tape - have to have a decent pouch instead.

Now to the pictures:

Right side

Left side

Battery and the power switch close ups

The speed sensor. This placing stinks, I have to find another solution. Maybe ditch the base, and tape it with Gorilla straight to the triangle... Any thoughts will be appreciated.

Couple of thoughts -

For now I don't see the need for the brake sensors, but this may be because I didn't ride the thing extensively.

Wireless speed sensor would be nice.

Smaller power switch is a must. I don't have room for it on the handlebar, neither I have the wire length. As I see it now, I will need more space in a pouch to stick this thing there.

 

[tln]

Well, everything is wired, up and working Just made a short run with it outside on a pavement - it's a blast and sheer joy.

Awesome! That gorilla tape is looking good

Smaller power switch is a must. I don't have room for it on the handlebar, neither I have the wire length. As I see it now, I will need more space in a pouch to stick this thing there.

Yup, that battery power switch is ungainly. The bafang controller can be turned off, so I don't think you HAVE to turn off the battery all that often. Maybe you could just short circuit there; or replace with a really short power switch lead.

Could you move the speed sensor closer to the hub and have the speed sensor on the chain stay? If not attaching without the housing seems like a good idea. Maybe with sugru?

 

[Abagrizzli]

Awesome! That gorilla tape is looking good

Yeah, I was a bit skeptical, when you mentioned "duck tape" first, but as I see it now, there's no way out without it Actually, this Gorilla looks so industrial, that I'm not that concerned about when the pouch arrives. It looks so tidy and harmonic, scary

Yup, that battery power switch is ungainly. The bafang controller can be turned off, so I don't think you HAVE to turn off the battery all that often. Maybe you could just short circuit there; or replace with a really short power switch lead.

I have no idea how, the battery itself has a little tail that sticks out, and the switch must be attached to it. Besides, I'm a little bit afraid of not having on/off switch on the battery. I will ask Paul, if it can be done, although he's flooded already with all my questions...

Could you move the speed sensor closer to the hub and have the speed sensor on the chain stay? If not attaching without the housing seems like a good idea. Maybe with sugru?

Sugru is an interesting idea. Never heard of it, but from what I google - it can be a good thing. The question is how it will stick to the paint.

The speed sensor does not reach to the chain stay, so I keep it on the brake side. The thing is that I can't attach it on the lower pivot of the triangle, because there is no enough space for the magnet. So I attached it on the bottom side of the upper pivot. It is far from being ideal, because I have no idea how it will behave under jumps. Theoretically, it can be teared away.