Ibis Mojo HD and Bafang BBS02 marriage

[Abagrizzli]

Hi guys, need your help again.

Paul offers this battery, which I found very attractive for its weight and dimensions. Paul says it will be compatible with the BBS02 750W 48V.

SDI INR18650-25R
Configuration: 13S, 4P
V(nom): 46.8
Ah(nom): 9.8
Whrs: 458.64
Weight: 2.5 kg
height (mm): 75
width (mm): 83
length (mm, incl. BMS): 257

Now the question is - what this battery will be good for? Range, speed and work hours?

Also yet another question - is there a way to wire a hydraulic Shimano XT brakes to the motor?

 

[mfj197]

Also yet another question - is there a way to wire a hydraulic Shimano XT brakes to the motor?

Plenty of ways. Indeed I've just posted the same info in another thread - here you go:

• Use hydraulic brake sensors, such as these which need to be mounted to the existing brake levers
• Use sensors which are tapped into the hydraulic lines themselves, manufactured by Magura I believe. Requires bleeding the brake hoses.
• Modify the existing brake levers yourself using either reed switches as has been done here or microswitches
• Use hydraulic brakes which already have brake sensor switches in the levers, for example Tektro E-Comp.

Michael

 

[tln]

Range, speed and work hours?

Range will of course depend on the hills and what assist level is used. And whether the bike is built for road or track. Probably 30mi on road without hills, keeping speed reasonable, and pedaling.

Speed up to 30mph with lots of pedaling.

Work hours are hard to guess.

Sounds like a good battery solution! Nice and light.

I don't use the brake sensors although I probably should

 

[Abagrizzli]

Thanks, tln

30 mi on road sounds pretty short... The intend use is on singletracks and fire roads with lots of uphills, some of them steep and rocky... I like this battery very-very much, I'm just afraid it will be gone after 5 miles even with the pedal assist... Or maybe I have to stop digging and just go for it.

How do you manage without the brake sensors?

I'd be grateful for any ideas where to get the case and what case should it be and how to attach it to the bottle cage bolts...

 

[Abagrizzli]

Also yet another question - is there a way to wire a hydraulic Shimano XT brakes to the motor?

Plenty of ways. Indeed I've just posted the same info in another thread - here you go:

• Use hydraulic brake sensors, such as these which need to be mounted to the existing brake levers
• Use sensors which are tapped into the hydraulic lines themselves, manufactured by Magura I believe. Requires bleeding the brake hoses.
• Modify the existing brake levers yourself using either reed switches as has been done here or microswitches
• Use hydraulic brakes which already have brake sensor switches in the levers, for example Tektro E-Comp.

Michael

This is a mighty thanks to you, Michael

I have to try the option, where he makes the reed switch. As far as I understand, the motor kit comes with brakes levers with ready wires to the motor. Is there a way to use whatever sensors they have and just transfer them to the existing levers?

 

[DanGT86]

There is probably not an easy way to adapt the included levers to hydro brakes levers but as mentioned there are other options. I actually glued a cheap microswitch to my brake lever so my hand hits it during normal braking. Not the best looking solution but it would get you by while you figure something else out like a hydro or reed switch.

Dont worry, the pack at 450wh will get you way more than 5 miles. Even if you rode it really hard uphills the motor isnt going to produce more than its 750w max. You get in trouble when you have a big power motor and a hand throttle and you are trying to maximize range. In your case you dont have the power to kill the pack that quickly. The pedal assist will keep you consuming power at a reasonable rate.

Just playing around with the ebikes.ca simulator, it looks like a hub climbing a 2.5% grade continuously at 21mph with that pack size would get you 11 miles. Thats with no pedaling. Not to mention you are probably more efficient than a direct drive hub and 21mph is a pretty quick pace for uphill single track riding.

If you were making a hill climb specific bike to go only uphill you may want a larger pack. Sounds like you are using the bike to compliment riding you already do so you will be pedaling also. If you were expecting motorcycle type power with no pedaling and a rooster tail of mud slinging off the rear tire then the battery pack would be on the small side but it will be a great compliment to a regular cyclists leg power.

The 25R cells are giving you power but giving up a little bit of capacity. If they are overkill for the power then you may be better off with one of the other cell options but I don't think you would be disappointed with that pack.

 

[Abagrizzli]

There is probably not an easy way to adapt the included levers to hydro brakes levers but as mentioned there are other options. I actually glued a cheap microswitch to my brake lever so my hand hits it during normal braking. Not the best looking solution but it would get you by while you figure something else out like a hydro or reed switch.

Dont worry, the pack at 450wh will get you way more than 5 miles. Even if you rode it really hard uphills the motor isnt going to produce more than its 750w max. You get in trouble when you have a big power motor and a hand throttle and you are trying to maximize range. In your case you dont have the power to kill the pack that quickly. The pedal assist will keep you consuming power at a reasonable rate.

Just playing around with the ebikes.ca simulator, it looks like a hub climbing a 2.5% grade continuously at 21mph with that pack size would get you 11 miles. Thats with no pedaling. Not to mention you are probably more efficient than a direct drive hub and 21mph is a pretty quick pace for uphill single track riding.

If you were making a hill climb specific bike to go only uphill you may want a larger pack. Sounds like you are using the bike to compliment riding you already do so you will be pedaling also. If you were expecting motorcycle type power with no pedaling and a rooster tail of mud slinging off the rear tire then the battery pack would be on the small side but it will be a great compliment to a regular cyclists leg power.

The 25R cells are giving you power but giving up a little bit of capacity. If they are overkill for the power then you may be better off with one of the other cell options but I don't think you would be disappointed with that pack.

Wow, Dan, this is exactly the perspective I was wishing for. Huge thanks, I will go forward with this battery and the deal.

So as I see now, I have two major concerns left - protecting and attaching the battery, and wiring the brakes.

 

[leelorr]

I think it was Kepler on this forum that came up the idea to install a micro switch on his shifter instead of on the Brake lever. That way when you shift in the one direction that causes the dreaded "clunking", the power is automatically cut first. This also means that there is no additional step required when shifting because you just shift normally instead of squeezing the brake lever lightly before shifting. He also found that there is still a slight delay after you squeeze the brake lever and when the power to the motor finally cuts, but the power cut is instantly if the throttle is slightly engaged instead of using the brake cut out switches. He has posted an electrical circuit that applies a very small amount of throttle when the reed switch on the shifter is used. This small amount of throttle (way less power than you will already be using via PAS) causes the power to be cut immediately for shifting. Anyway, you find Kepler's throttle and shifter mods in the thread at:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104&p=862086#p862086

good luck,
leelorr

 

[Abagrizzli]

I'm still struggling to understand, why should the power be cut, when shifting gears on a mid-drive motor. The movement of the rear derailleur is determined and portioned, and the pedals need to be turned in order the gear shift will occur. So why to cut the power?

Second question, I'm not comfortable with yet, is why to cut the power when braking. I understand the general logic behind the idea, so when I hit the brakes - the motor will be cut off power. But usually common sense and my riding skills show, that anyhow when I hit the brakes - I'm not pedaling. The pedals might move half a turn when switching weight, but I'm not sure this half a turn is enough for PAS to pick up. But I've not tried the motor in the real life yet, so I don't know how the PAS works, either it helps only when I'm pedaling, and when I stop pedaling - the power is cut, or one circle of pedaling is enough for the motor to take off for a while.

But I know there are e-brakes levers in the kit, which means somebody thinks it is a must. The question is - is it a safety must, or operational must.

 

[tln]

I'm still struggling to understand, why should the power be cut, when shifting gears on a mid-drive motor. The movement of the rear derailleur is determined and portioned, and the pedals need to be turned in order the gear shift will occur. So why to cut the power?

Second question, I'm not comfortable with yet, is why to cut the power when braking. I understand the general logic behind the idea, so when I hit the brakes - the motor will be cut off power. But usually common sense and my riding skills show, that anyhow when I hit the brakes - I'm not pedaling. The pedals might move half a turn when switching weight, but I'm not sure this half a turn is enough for PAS to pick up. But I've not tried the motor in the real life yet, so I don't know how the PAS works, either it helps only when I'm pedaling, and when I stop pedaling - the power is cut, or one circle of pedaling is enough for the motor to take off for a while.

But I know there are e-brakes levers in the kit, which means somebody thinks it is a must. The question is - is it a safety must, or operational must.

I'm interested to hear more opinions on the brake question...

The assist actually keeps going for a second after you stop pedaling. Thats why the cut-the-motor action of the e-brakes is an operational nice-to-have (imho - not a must) on the BBS02. But good bike brakes can overpower the motor.

The safety issue is when the throttle fails somehow and stays on. Again, good brakes can stop the bike and you just get off and put the bike on the ground.

 

[samsavvas]

Hi guys, need your help again.

Paul offers this battery, which I found very attractive for its weight and dimensions. Paul says it will be compatible with the BBS02 750W 48V.

SDI INR18650-25R
Configuration: 13S, 4P
V(nom): 46.8
Ah(nom): 9.8
Whrs: 458.64
Weight: 2.5 kg
height (mm): 75
width (mm): 83
length (mm, incl. BMS): 257

Now the question is - what this battery will be good for? Range, speed and work hours?

Also yet another question - is there a way to wire a hydraulic Shimano XT brakes to the motor?

Hi Abagrizzli,

Why not ask Paul about these issues of range, speed etc too? I've asked similar questions and found him very responsive. He appears to have very solid expertise in this area, he certainly knows his own batteries and has demonstrated his concern that buyers know the limitations of any kit they are getting! In the final analysis, how happy you are with your kit will depend very much on having a realistic idea of its capabilities from the start.

With regard to using hydro brakes, if you are purchasing from Paul, I'd suggest buying a set of the inexpensive e-brake sensors that he sells and fitting them to your own hydraulic brake levers. See here: http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=196 . These sensors come with the Higo connectors fitted and are 'plug and play' with the Bafang kit so they are surely the easiest solution - much cheaper than a set of sensor-equippped Tektro or Magura hydraulic levers (if you can find them)! Paul supplies double-sided tape to mount the sensor and magnet. I'd use a scrap of this to get the positioning right and the cables as neat as possible, then I'd just epoxy them in place.

My experience has only been with the 36V kits which appear to be more 'moderate' than the 48V model. However I would just caution you not to expect motor bike performance. I suspect that most of the experienced folk on this list who are into off-road and single track riding or racing would suggest alternative systems for those seeking speed and power as a first priority. IMHO the BBS-xx is an excellent, moderately powered assist kit which is designed to provide a good balance between power, durability, weight, quietness, convenience, cost, safety and ease of installation in the context of commuting and every-day bicycle use. I suspect that it is not designed to operate at the extremes of performance and power. Paul provides some cautions about this himself at the news section of his web site. There are at least 2 other excellent mid-drive options available if you want sheer off-road power to feed through your gear train. And there are also hub-based options...

With regard to the so-called 'problem' of motor 'run-on', for every-day use I don't find this an issue. When you are riding an ordinary geared bike (derailleur or IGH), you're advised to ease off drive train tension anyway when changing gear to facilitate changes and reduce wear on the gears. This usually means that you stop pedalling or reduce pedalling speed for a moment. On a BBS-equipped bike, because it uses a simple cadence sensor, I find that you just need to actually cease pedalling momentarily or, as others have said, just feather your left brake lever slightly. Both strategies work very well and for every-day use I do not find run-on an issue. For sure, Kepler has devised a very neat switching system that instantly turns the motor off as part of his bike's shifting. He lives in Melbourne where I know they have some pretty nice bike paths and he obviously likes to maintain his speed and cadence. I think he's also an engineer, obviously likes a challenge and has a particular idea as to how his assist system should work. However I'm not sure that he would describe the motor run-on as a 'fault' per se. I certainly would not. Indeed, somewhere on this thread there is a discussion exploring a plausible rationale for the PAS system's slightly delayed cut-off - I believe it suggests it is aimed at reducing stress on the BBS unit's internal gears and freewheels. I'm no engineer, but this makes sense to me.

Savvas.

 

[Abagrizzli]

I'm interested to hear more opinions on the brake question...

The assist actually keeps going for a second after you stop pedaling. Thats why the cut-the-motor action of the e-brakes is an operational nice-to-have (imho - not a must) on the BBS02. But good bike brakes can overpower the motor.

The safety issue is when the throttle fails somehow and stays on. Again, good brakes can stop the bike and you just get off and put the bike on the ground.

I also think so. These won't be cheap V-brakes, these will be solid XT 203 mm front, 180 mm rear hydraulic disk brakes, which are fully capable to stop a 80-90 kg downhill rider from 50-60 kmh to 0... Of course, there will be more wear to them. I'm not completely sure, I will buy the adapter wires just in case, but it will be an afterwards tuning.

 

[Abagrizzli]

Hi Abagrizzli,

Why not ask Paul about these issues of range, speed etc too? I've asked similar questions and found him very responsive. He appears to have very solid expertise in this area, he certainly knows his own batteries and has demonstrated his concern that buyers know the limitations of any kit they are getting! In the final analysis, how happy you are with your kit will depend very much on having a realistic idea of its capabilities from the start.

Hi Savvas,

I did, and got the answer meanwhile. He is helpful indeed, although answering time is about 2 days now I also decided to go with his initial offer - small custom battery.

With regard to using hydro brakes, if you are purchasing from Paul, I'd suggest buying a set of the inexpensive e-brake sensors that he sells and fitting them to your own hydraulic brake levers. See here: http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=196 . These sensors come with the Higo connectors fitted and are 'plug and play' with the Bafang kit so they are surely the easiest solution - much cheaper than a set of sensor-equippped Tektro or Magura hydraulic levers (if you can find them)! Paul supplies double-sided tape to mount the sensor and magnet. I'd use a scrap of this to get the positioning right and the cables as neat as possible, then I'd just epoxy them in place.

Will do. Even though I'm not going to make this tune on the start, before I try how it works in reality and what's the influence on the bike. But I will take them just in case, and will make the alterations to the existing brakes, if can be done.

My experience has only been with the 36V kits which appear to be more 'moderate' than the 48V model. However I would just caution you not to expect motor bike performance. I suspect that most of the experienced folk on this list who are into off-road and single track riding or racing would suggest alternative systems for those seeking speed and power as a first priority. IMHO the BBS-xx is an excellent, moderately powered assist kit which is designed to provide a good balance between power, durability, weight, quietness, convenience, cost, safety and ease of installation in the context of commuting and every-day bicycle use. I suspect that it is not designed to operate at the extremes of performance and power. Paul provides some cautions about this himself at the news section of his web site. There are at least 2 other excellent mid-drive options available if you want sheer off-road power to feed through your gear train. And there are also hub-based options...

I am not looking to make this into e-motorbike. The motor has a purpose of pedal assisting and maintaining the heart rate level during the work out for my wife. If the e-motorcycle was the goal, I agree, much more powerful motors and different drive system would be needed.

With regard to the so-called 'problem' of motor 'run-on', for every-day use I don't find this an issue. When you are riding an ordinary geared bike (derailleur or IGH), you're advised to ease off drive train tension anyway when changing gear to facilitate changes and reduce wear on the gears. This usually means that you stop pedalling or reduce pedalling speed for a moment. On a BBS-equipped bike, because it uses a simple cadence sensor, I find that you just need to actually cease pedalling momentarily or, as others have said, just feather your left brake lever slightly. Both strategies work very well and for every-day use I do not find run-on an issue. For sure, Kepler has devised a very neat switching system that instantly turns the motor off as part of his bike's shifting. He lives in Melbourne where I know they have some pretty nice bike paths and he obviously likes to maintain his speed and cadence. I think he's also an engineer, obviously likes a challenge and has a particular idea as to how his assist system should work. However I'm not sure that he would describe the motor run-on as a 'fault' per se. I certainly would not. Indeed, somewhere on this thread there is a discussion exploring a plausible rationale for the PAS system's slightly delayed cut-off - I believe it suggests it is aimed at reducing stress on the BBS unit's internal gears and freewheels. I'm no engineer, but this makes sense to me.

Savvas.

This one I can't settle my mind about. I can't see how disengaging the motor helps in gear shifting. When I shift gears on my bike, I don't stop pedaling - I shift while pedaling. If I won't pedal - the chain won't switch to the cog. The tension doesn't matter - I can do it uphill also - with properly tuned rear derailleur it won't be an issue. That's why I can't wrap my mind about why would you want to disengage the motor while shifting. The power transferred from the motor to the chain is not high enough, to cause any troubles...

 

[Warren]

"I can't see how disengaging the motor helps in gear shifting. When I shift gears on my bike, I don't stop pedaling - I shift while pedaling. If I won't pedal - the chain won't switch to the cog. The tension doesn't matter - I can do it uphill also - with properly tuned rear derailleur it won't be an issue. That's why I can't wrap my mind about why would you want to disengage the motor while shifting. The power transferred from the motor to the chain is not high enough, to cause any troubles"

In my experience riding a bike with the motor running through the gears, for the 2/3 of the time the motor is running, averaging a calculated 333 battery watts on the CA, I was breaking quick links about every 500 miles. I found that this only occured on downshifts, to larger cogs. I switched to closing the throttle on downshifts, and have had no more broken quick links in the last 15,000 miles. If you run Shimano chain, with press-in oversized pins instead of quick links, this may not be a problem. Since I run throttle only, it wasn't worth switching to more expensive chain to find out.

 

[Abagrizzli]

In my experience riding a bike with the motor running through the gears, for the 2/3 of the time the motor is running, averaging a calculated 333 battery watts on the CA, I was breaking quick links about every 500 miles. I found that this only occured on downshifts, to larger cogs. I switched to closing the throttle on downshifts, and have had no more broken quick links in the last 15,000 miles. If you run Shimano chain, with press-in oversized pins instead of quick links, this may not be a problem. Since I run throttle only, it wasn't worth switching to more expensive chain to find out.

Understood. Indeed, I'm thinking about using either XT or KMC chain, instead of XTR hollowpoint. I can see the problem may exist when you just throttling and dowshifting, but then it means the chainring RPM has to be high - at least 200-400. In this case there might be a problem. On the other hand, when pedaling, the absolute max RPM for the very fit rider is about 170, while the most riders make average 60-70. My point, it can't be a problem when the motor is used as pedal assist, and not traveling at 40 kmh speed...

 

[Warren]

Abagrizzli,

"I can see the problem may exist when you just throttling and dowshifting, but then it means the chainring RPM has to be high - at least 200-400."

I should have made clear that I am always pedaling at normal cadence when the motor is running...no crank freewheel.

I have settled on a 50 tooth chainring, and 12-34 cassette. My speed is 7.5-9.5 mph in low, and 25-27 mph in high.

http://www.evalbum.com/4525

Also realize that climbing fast on steep grades under load, and downshifting I can see 450-550 watts on the CA, plus probably 200 watts from me, so the chain sees peaks triple what I could do myself.

 

[Abagrizzli]

That clears thing a bit, Warren, thank you

Did you use SRAM's powerlink or KMC's missing link?

It seems, that the link is the weak spot, interesting if the issue will still exist with a fully closed chain... Although I prefer the open chain option, with years I developed the ability to ignore the greasy mess, and stopped degreasin'-regreasin' after each run.

 

[Warren]

Abagrizzli,

"Did you use SRAM's powerlink or KMC's missing link?"

SRAM. I am running the cheapest SRAM PC 850, 8 speed chain. I settled into replacing them every 3,333 miles. At that point they show zero wear, laid next to new chain. I give them to the local bike shop for folks who need free chains. I have run the same 12-34 cassette,and 15T motor cogs, for 14,000 miles, no sign of wear. Worn chains wear cogs, which wear chains.

"I developed the ability to ignore the greasy mess, and stopped degreasin'-regreasin' after each run."

I try to avoid rain, but have been caught in a few gully washers, and about 10% of my riding is on dirt/gravel roads. After the first two chains, I quit re-lubing the chain. I run with the thick goop that comes on them, and a drop of heavy oil on the quick link when installed. I wipe them down with a rag occasionally, to get off the black stuff that otherwise marks up your leg.

I know this is bad for chain and lube sales, but it works for me.

I have tried ever lube, and technique over the last 45 years, starting with melted paraffin wax, and 90 weight gear oil mix. I suspect part of the reason these chains do so well is that, being on an electric assist recumbent, I always start in low and spin through the gears, none of the mashing I do on my single speed upright.

 

[Abagrizzli]

Guys, need your advise now, until it's too late and I hit the pay button.

I got these sensors from Paul for somehow attaching them to the brakes later:

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=196

Am I right or should I have got these instead?

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=196

 

[leelorr]

Both of your links go to the same product, which are necessary for bikes with hydraulic brakes, but work for mechanical brakes also. You just glue or tape the magnet to the brake lever and attach the reed switch to the brake handlebar mount. This keeps you from having to use the brake levers with built in switches that he can supply for use with mechanical brakes. A lot of people want to keep using their own mechanical brakes setup because they are usually better than what comes with the kit from Paul. The kit you linked to will allow that.

Good luck,
Lorrin

 

[Abagrizzli]

Both of your links go to the same product, which are necessary for bikes with hydraulic brakes, but work for mechanical brakes also. You just glue or tape the magnet to the brake lever and attach the reed switch to the brake handlebar mount. This keeps you from having to use the brake levers with built in switches that he can supply for use with mechanical brakes. A lot of people want to keep using their own mechanical brakes setup because they are usually better than what comes with the kit from Paul. The kit you linked to will allow that.

Good luck,
Lorrin

Lorrin, thank you. Of course I meant the other HSWB sensor, that Paul has on his website. But your post actually answers what I need. This one supposed to be plug and play for the BBS02, one side goes to the brake lever, and the other - into the display? If so, how does the power being cut off, if it isn't going straight to the motor? I know this is a dumb question, which I myself will find irritating after a month, so sorry in advance )))))

 

[--freeride--]

I would recommend to reprogramm the drive, the stock setup is kind of shit and can be optimised be reprogramming.

The throttle then works much better you won't need any brakeswitch because the motor shuts off immediatly if you stop pedaling, this way you could do a short pedal stop shift and go on nearly like on a normal bike.

What I did additional, I blocked the rear freewheel.
First of all, if you are in throttle only mode, you engage the throttle and the motor ramps up until the rear freewheel locks. That might take a while and the locking is really hard and unpredictable in trials riding. With a locked rear freewheel the motor pulles right from the start and is much besser predictable.
Second, with a locked rear freewheel, the chain is still moving when u are coasting. So you stop pedaling coast and you have any time in the world to shift.
I find that the best solution as you don't nned a rear frewheel with to freewhels up front.

By the way a smaller front chainring is better for climbing although you should make sure your chainline is ok, so it might be a good idea to take out the smallest sprocket of the cassette and move the cassette out a little.

The BBS02 is good for 30mph with 42T/13T but you have to pedal very hard, 25mph is the realstic speed you can go over a longer distance. So a Chainring bigger that 42T is not nessesary if you pedal 90rpm. I use a 38T up front and 13-42 7 Speed in the back. 38T/34T is already low enough to climb trees.

Have a look on my bike, that might help with some of your issues:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=55856&hilit=freerides

 

[Abagrizzli]

C965A number of assist levels.
I have a C965A LCD Display.
It has 3 levels of assist.
The manual (07/2014) says it can be set to have 3, 5, or 9 levels of assist.
There are no instructions in the manual that describe how to set the number of levels.
Can anyone help me with this?
Thank you in advance.
Jim

Here Jim, cjh gave two manuals, the Lectric Cycles manual supposed to be really detailed, even though I didn't studied it yet:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=989864#p989864

 

[Abagrizzli]

I would recommend to reprogramm the drive, the stock setup is kind of shit and can be optimised be reprogramming.

The throttle then works much better you won't need any brakeswitch because the motor shuts off immediatly if you stop pedaling, this way you could do a short pedal stop shift and go on nearly like on a normal bike.

What I did additional, I blocked the rear freewheel.
First of all, if you are in throttle only mode, you engage the throttle and the motor ramps up until the rear freewheel locks. That might take a while and the locking is really hard and unpredictable in trials riding. With a locked rear freewheel the motor pulles right from the start and is much besser predictable.
Second, with a locked rear freewheel, the chain is still moving when u are coasting. So you stop pedaling coast and you have any time in the world to shift.
I find that the best solution as you don't nned a rear frewheel with to freewhels up front.

By the way a smaller front chainring is better for climbing although you should make sure your chainline is ok, so it might be a good idea to take out the smallest sprocket of the cassette and move the cassette out a little.

The BBS02 is good for 30mph with 42T/13T but you have to pedal very hard, 25mph is the realstic speed you can go over a longer distance. So a Chainring bigger that 42T is not nessesary if you pedal 90rpm. I use a 38T up front and 13-42 7 Speed in the back. 38T/34T is already low enough to climb trees.

Have a look on my bike, that might help with some of your issues:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=55856&hilit=freerides

This is an important input. I will get back to programming when I'll get the motor and will set it up.

You have a seriously beautiful bike - I wish the Mojo I'm building will come up neat like this. Your solution sounds much easier and cleaner. May I ask some questions?

The bike supposed to be pedaled at all times - keeping the thumb throttle just for any case. I understand the freewheel issue, even though I'm intended to use Mavic 729 freeride wheels with wide rims, and from what I'm sensing the freewheel inside is much tighter than my ZTR FloweEx. But anyway - how do you lock the freewheel? And what happens to the pedals in front, after you lock the freewheel at the rear? The motor has its own freewheel?

Also, I'm supposed to buy the cassette next week, was about to pull the trigger on standard 10-speed 11-36 XT, now I see people don't do 10 speed. Why? Which one would you suggest to use?

I'm asking so many questions, because your bike is exactly what I'm trying to build.

 

[--freeride--]

I can pedal or use the thumb throttle, u can allways overdrive the PASS with the throttle or switch to 0 assist with the PASS and just use the throttle. That can be adjusted by software.

The Motor has two freewheels one between the pedals and the chainwheel and one between the motor and the Chainwheel. So if you stop pedaling with the rear freewheel locked the pedal freewheel releases and u coast with moving chain. The motor although stops, the motor freewheel releases too. So everything is the same than on a ordinary bike, you just have a moving Chain while you coast and so you can shift while coasting.


In general you need less gears with a motor. The motor is pulling with 3-5times the power a normal rider does, so better beaf your drivetrain up.
An 10speed chain is very thin, the sprockets are thin too. 8speed is stronger and cheaper. I found out that an 8 Speed sram gripshift works perfekt with an 10speed damped shimano+ derailleur. So you could have a damped derailleur with 8-Speed cassette and chain

An 11T in the rear won't last long with the Motor so better leave it out for a better chainline.