Alan B
100 GW
Note that a DD brushless hubmotor is an alternator. You'll need the same size and weight to generate that amount of power. You definitely don't want to carry one around without using it as a motor as well.
spiros said:I live in a place with steep hills I do a lot of steep road and if I had a regen brake I will not have to change pads on both my four piston caliper every 500km
John and Cecil said:I do not understand how you cant have a bike that has regen braking without effecting it's coasting characteristics. If it had it's own hub (like an alternator I imagine) and a clutch type device that worked in reverse [...]
Alan B said:Proper torque anchoring is required, but it can easily be provided with flatted axles. Bicycle frames are not properly designed for that by default however, they are generally marginal for flatted larger axles.
craneplaneguy said:Has anyone considered one of these: https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=drag+chute&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=178101069494&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15154458787076355731&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029427&hvtargid=kwd-287184388&ref=pd_sl_7bf24ro2zx_e
If you disabled all the freewheels in the system, then you could get regen braking, but youd also have to ensure the chain couldnt derail when running backwards as it would during braking, and that the derailer itself wouldnt jam up from the opposite tensions it is designed for.John and Cecil said:With all the hills I wish we could have regen braking, but we have a mid drive motor.
If you used a geared hub, then almost none of them will work for regen, because they have a freewheeling clutch built in so theyre easier to pedal without power. You could lock the clutch (weld, etc) or find one that has no clutch.Perhaps if they come up with one that does not weigh too much I would not mind adding a small hum motor with regen to our front wheel if it was geared for a max speed of 6-8mph or so. It would be great to kick in when climbing steep hills for all wheel drive, and then on the way down it would add to our battery reserves and keep our brakes fresh and ready for action.
Every persons situation is different, so it is worth it to some, and not to others. For me, the energy I get back isnt significant, but the extra braking most definitely is, as is the wear saved on pads--if I braked only with the pads, Id probably go thru a set every month, or maybe every couple of weeks, commuting in traffic on SB Cruiser and previously wiht CrazyBike2.John and Cecil said:I do not know if it is worth it either, however people that ride in places like San Francisco, Italy etc and are constantly going up and down large grade hills might have a use for them. I'm killing my brakes going down steep hills and that is all lost energy to boot.
Entirely depends on the controllers implementation of electric braking.DRMousseau said:But I gots a question,.... perhaps a result of my system, or settings, or normal? But regen seems only noticeably effective at speeds over 12mph. Between 10 and 12mph it seems barely perceptible, and jus non-existent under 10mph!!! Indicators show regen to be activated, but perhaps because of the heavy setup, it's jus seems not to be detectable below 10mph.
Again, thats controller dependent. Some are even programmable for regen type and levels, as well as cruise, etc. Some activate cruise with a button, some do it by holding throttle in one place for so many seconds, and some dont even have the function at all.I notice too, that "cruise" can't be set under 12mph!!
The mtoro itself has nothing to do with how the controller implements regen, though a motor that creates more torque under the same drive conditions that another does not, will also have more braking torque than the other motor, under the same braking conditions. Beyond that, its all up to the controller.Is this maybe a minimum parameter of the controller itself?? Or is this typical and normal of most DD hubs?
Chalo said:Alan B said:Proper torque anchoring is required, but it can easily be provided with flatted axles. Bicycle frames are not properly designed for that by default however, they are generally marginal for flatted larger axles.
The issue is that by using the axle stud to both fasten the wheel and transmit reaction torque, you've given it two jobs to do that work against each other. Transmitting torque through the axle stud tends to loosen the nuts that hold the wheel to the frame. The interrupted thread caused by flatting the axle dramatically reduces the thread's clamping ability and subjects the thread to damage and stripping at what would otherwise be normal fastener torques. And the same working clearances that make a bolted joint easy to fit up, make a flatted axle behave more like a pry bar than like a spline.
rumme said:Lets say you have a 20 mile commute using regen in the best conditions for it to be used, what is the max voltage input 1 can expect back into the battery ?
5% - 10% max ?
Are there any negative aspects to using regen , as far as wear and tear on the motor, magnets, controller, battery ?
John in CR said:rumme said:Lets say you have a 20 mile commute using regen in the best conditions for it to be used, what is the max voltage input 1 can expect back into the battery ?
5% - 10% max ?
Are there any negative aspects to using regen , as far as wear and tear on the motor, magnets, controller, battery ?
"Best conditions" well over 20%. I've gotten 20%+ recovery on many rides, though I'd use regen even if there was no range extension benefit. I'd use it just to almost totally avoid brake maintenance.
DRMousseau said:Let me start by stating that I really like Regen Braking,.... I liked it on other vehicles too, from golf cars to the kids Civic Hybrid. AND I like it on my e-bike as well. Being a heavy 29" beach cruiser, it coasts with pretty good momentum. I do have some anticipation ahead, but my heavy regen setting often lends a great assist to braking while relieving the brake pad wear ALOT. "end of quote"
so finnaly what drive is installed on your 29" BEACH CRUISER??
important information
such generalization ...
controller is the one which decide how regen braking is implemented
you feel jerks/reverse torque as some name it on cheap controllers.
Not on my PLUS - no worry about jerks back and forth.
wineboyrider said:John in CR said:rumme said:Lets say you have a 20 mile commute using regen in the best conditions for it to be used, what is the max voltage input 1 can expect back into the battery ?
5% - 10% max ?
Are there any negative aspects to using regen , as far as wear and tear on the motor, magnets, controller, battery ?
"Best conditions" well over 20%. I've gotten 20%+ recovery on many rides, though I'd use regen even if there was no range extension benefit. I'd use it just to almost totally avoid brake maintenance.
+1yep. My only mistake was using a high powered setup with front hub motor that forked up me forks and I wrecked ...LOL