JP spot welder

Thanks, it was some unknown allergies, really weird. But I'm much batter now, thanks!

And I'm starting new batch pretty soon, I'm gathering parts and almost got everything.


I'm really glad that this welder is working well for you and everybody else, it really makes me proud. It's easy to make a piece of electronics that works on your table, but once it ships out it's whole another story, so I'm really glad that it's working as it should and that I could provide quality and affordable solution for you guys to assemble great pack using best cells :D
 
I think it's great. Nice job! If I hadn't already built one, I would be all over it. Congratulations!
 
prensel said:
I did receive my welder last week and managed to do some test welds on some old batteries and nickel strip.

IT WORKS GREAT !!

Would it be possible to use some capacitors like the Zeva spotwelder http://www.zeva.com.au/Projects/SpotWelderV2/ uses instead of the 12v battery ?
Click to expand...
As far as I understand it this JP spot welder is designed to avoid all the most expensive components a typical industrial spot welder uses.
Large high farad capacitors are expensive and ones that have low internal resistance even more expensive.
Also transformers/inductors are also expensive and heavy causing expensive shipping.

This is why this spot welder is great because its working outside the box of expensive and heavy to ship components by utilizing LA battery packs that are widely available everywhere to greatly reduce costs.

If you want your spot welder to be more lighter/portable then low quality lipo packs are probably the best way to go, seems like if you build a battery pack for it of too high quality it can cause problems.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68865&start=175#p1058175
 
Brake said:
I think it's great. Nice job! If I hadn't already built one, I would be all over it. Congratulations!
Click to expand...

Thanks :)

TheBeastie said:
As far as I understand it this JP spot welder is designed to avoid all the most expensive components a typical industrial spot welder uses.
Large high farad capacitors are expensive and ones that have low internal resistance even more expensive.
Also transformers/inductors are also expensive and heavy causing expensive shipping.

This is why this spot welder is great because its working outside the box of expensive and heavy to ship components by utilizing LA battery packs that are widely available everywhere to greatly reduce costs.

If you want your spot welder to be more lighter/portable then low quality lipo packs are probably the best way to go, seems like if you build a battery pack for it of too high quality it can cause problems.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68865&start=175#p1058175
Click to expand...


Thanks, nice post! :)

So, to sum it up, if you are using lipo or a123 instead of lead batteries, so far the experiments have shown that 3S and 20Ah is more than enough (and max I recommend). This is true both for lipo nanotech and a123 pouch cells.
 
Not as pretty as id like , but the welds are good and the glue should keep it from going anywhere.

Today I will be doing a test run with it as I am down to the last 4s12p pack. Just need to add balance taps and wire it up.

This is 1 of 2 8s12p packs. Having cables that were flexible a bit more would help greatly, still nothing I was not able to work with.

I am using 3s2p of a123 20ah prismatics which seem to work just fine.

IMG_2646.jpg
 
This looks really great! Has anyone tried using this to weld a wire fuse, Tesla style? If so, how'd it go, and what did you use?
 
SirNick said:
This looks really great! Has anyone tried using this to weld a wire fuse, Tesla style? If so, how'd it go, and what did you use?
Click to expand...

that would not be easy.
Best to solder the fuse wire to a small nickel strip, then weld the nickel to the cell.
 
That's how I decided to connect my packs. Solder to nickel then weld it to the battery.

Worked great for my application.

I also learned that isopropyl alcohol is pretty good at removing hot glue. Just need to let it sit a few minutes so it can work itself in.
 
Hmm.. An extra step, but it ought to work rather nicely. Might even make repairs easier.

Thanks, I think I'll give that a shot.
 
Riba, do you have any left or are you making them as people buy them?
It looks interesting for sure, perhaps a new hobby welding battery cells.
 
riba2233 said:
Hi, I'm currently building new batch, and once I finish it I will start selling. By now I did the opposite, but this time I wont because I don't want people who payed to wait.
Click to expand...

Any upgrades :?:
 
Good stuff Riba. :) Loving the upgrades. :D

I didn't realise the tips were not changeable. How many welds would the tips normally be able to handle before needing to change? I plan to make 2 packs with your welder...probably using 0.15 nickel, and will have a total of about 500-600 individual welds (200-300 cells) to do.
Would the non-changeable tips last that many welds?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Good stuff Riba. :) Loving the upgrades. :D

I didn't realise the tips were not changeable. How many welds would the tips normally be able to handle before needing to change? I plan to make 2 packs with your welder...probably using 0.15 nickel, and will have a total of about 500-600 individual welds (200-300 cells) to do.
Would the non-changeable tips last that many welds?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Ive done all of my packs so far on a single set of electrodes that I made from copper i bought from home depot.... many thousands of welds
I think i've lost about 1/2" length on them
 
riba2233 said:
It will have better tips, and I will offer upgrade (for $25 extra) - electrodes with changeable tips. Also now I'm using metal footswitch instead of plastic one.
Click to expand...


Great news :!: :!: Possible to make with flexible wires?
 
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