Keyne's DH Comp Build - now with liquid cooled HX35! :)
- Thread starter keyne
- Start date
keyne
100 W
Here are some closeups of how the panels fit the frame - there are some dodgy sections, but most of them are not obvious. Pedal clearence is fine - the panels make it 115mm max and given the bike has a 100mm bottom bracket you hardly notice the extra width!
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keyne
100 W
Yeah - but if I was doing it again I would defiantly at least try to make a custom carbon fiber frame! - I have learned a lot since I started the process, I basically did everything wrong, but at least it looks pretty 
keyne said:Yeah - but if I was doing it again I would defiantly at least try to make a custom carbon fiber frame! - I have learned a lot since I started the process, I basically did everything wrong, but at least it looks pretty
besides the carbon frame, what would you have done different?
keyne
100 W
The carbon frame would have changed everything - but if I was doing it again with a DH comp I would have used a 2005 version for its 150mm dropout swingarm.I would have made a proper mold for the panels and vacuum bagged them. I would have used different paint. Possibly lighter dropouts (if I could get some). Probably done 20s 15AHr lipo because it would fit better. Still have to see how the bike goes.
By the way the polyurethane pour foam was a bad idea - would have been fine if I didn't have almost all the space taken up with batteries - there just isn't enough left to hold itself together - I have been making little fibreglass walls on the inside of the panels to hold the batteries.
By the way the polyurethane pour foam was a bad idea - would have been fine if I didn't have almost all the space taken up with batteries - there just isn't enough left to hold itself together - I have been making little fibreglass walls on the inside of the panels to hold the batteries.
iovaykind
10 kW
Just a suggestion about holding the batteries into the frame. If you just taped up everything so the batteries were secured to the frame (I'm thinking velcro plus tape to the the whole thing together should make it pretty stable) you could technically go for a ride without the side panels. Then you can basically use the panels as just that, panels.. not for any structural integrity but only to make the bike look neat and tidy.
Love this thread btw, its inspired me to do the same thing as a battery cover
How long did it take you to build that cover? And what's the total cost of this project so far? And one last thing.. how much resin did you have to use? I have a bunch of cloth lying around but have no clue how much resin to buy.
Love this thread btw, its inspired me to do the same thing as a battery cover
How long did it take you to build that cover? And what's the total cost of this project so far? And one last thing.. how much resin did you have to use? I have a bunch of cloth lying around but have no clue how much resin to buy.
kfong
100 kW
Nice build, I did the mold route. It takes a bit of time to do, but I was happy with the end results. I did not use it for structural integrity. Just protection during crashes, it's held up well during many crashes and 3 endoes. I used the frame and a custom battery mount for the konions. This is a very secure setup. When taking it apart to replace the frame recently. I found two of the 6 bolts holding down the batteries were sheared. Mount was still solid, but it shown what stresses I was putting the bike through. Batteries stayed well protected. This is my BMC build, and has some serious trail miles on it. I'm planning a backup bike this winter, since I don't want to be without a good trail bike, and I seem to be breaking a bike a year. It will have to be as good or better. i would like to build a composite frame, but worried about bike geometry. Seems easier to get a high end setup and go from there. I've stayed away from lipo's since they would probably be damaged and dented from the way I ride. No easy way to secure them, and too much of a fire hazard. I am interested in hearing from others who are using lipos and riding hard in the trails. How are they holding up? What are you doing to prevent dents and friction wear?
iovaykind
10 kW
Or get hardcase packs, so friction wear won't be a big problem. Treat hardcase packs like soft ones and you're good to go.
fractal
1 kW
- Joined
- May 10, 2011
- Messages
- 322
keyne said:
Nice bike Keyne!!! I have a 2004 dh team that I want to convert. I was wondering if you could post some pics of te inside of the battery housing with the batteries. I want to do 24s also. Do you think an aluminium housing would be possible (that would wrap around the frame as opposed to being inside). I have a friend who fabricates aluminium cases for big trucks, and he's really good. I was thinking of asking him to design a housing. Although the fiberglass gives a nice finish, I just dont know what to choose???
Kiwi
1 kW
Hi,
I am about to do 2 DH Comp builds. I intend to make all the conversion parts available.
I will be designing a sheetmetal case to fit the frame for LIPO. I will make this available as either folded up and complete ready to go or DXF and folding plans for your local sheet metal shop with laser.
It will be an open source build so you will have a chance for input.
Kiwi
....Keyne, there will be 3 of us in NZ with DH Comps, have to hook up sometime.
I am about to do 2 DH Comp builds. I intend to make all the conversion parts available.
I will be designing a sheetmetal case to fit the frame for LIPO. I will make this available as either folded up and complete ready to go or DXF and folding plans for your local sheet metal shop with laser.
It will be an open source build so you will have a chance for input.
Kiwi
....Keyne, there will be 3 of us in NZ with DH Comps, have to hook up sometime.
RichiePA
10 W
Kiwi said:
Hey Kiwi, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with I'm currently building a Giant DH team I've just finished modding the dropouts and the battery box is going to be the next major hurdle. Have you started a build thread for your DH builds?
Kiwi
1 kW
Hi,
yeah have been following your thread.
I am doing an intense M1 this week, I intend to show that build, but probably when I am done early next week.
I am kind of holding off posting builds untill this whole buy out mess is sorted.
yeah have been following your thread.
I am doing an intense M1 this week, I intend to show that build, but probably when I am done early next week.
I am kind of holding off posting builds untill this whole buy out mess is sorted.
fabiograssi
100 W
What a nice bike!
Awesome!
- Fabio
Awesome!
- Fabio
iovaykind
10 kW
Hey Keyne.. got a couple of questions about your build, mainly about the cover since I need one for mine.
First, the bolts you had your friend turn on the lathe.. how much would it cost to have em done? I'm looking to have my fiberglass covers attached the same way, with 3 of those bolts. What price am I looking at?
Second, your pod, how'd you make the mold for that?
Third, the charge port, is that basically just a lower gauge xlr charge lead so you can bulk charge on the go? How do you balance charge?
Finally, you said if you had the chance to do it again you'd do it differently, what would you have done? My batteries don't fill up my entire triangle, so I may just fill in the rest with expanding foam so it provides some stability and keeps things for moving around too much in between the covers. My hope is to have one cover secured and then have the other cover easily removable with the right tools.
First, the bolts you had your friend turn on the lathe.. how much would it cost to have em done? I'm looking to have my fiberglass covers attached the same way, with 3 of those bolts. What price am I looking at?
Second, your pod, how'd you make the mold for that?
Third, the charge port, is that basically just a lower gauge xlr charge lead so you can bulk charge on the go? How do you balance charge?
Finally, you said if you had the chance to do it again you'd do it differently, what would you have done? My batteries don't fill up my entire triangle, so I may just fill in the rest with expanding foam so it provides some stability and keeps things for moving around too much in between the covers. My hope is to have one cover secured and then have the other cover easily removable with the right tools.
keyne
100 W
Kiwi said:
Hi Kiwi,
What years are your two dh comps? Are they both for you? I'm normally on the wrong island to meet up with bikes, but I happen to be in Wellington till friday
keyne
100 W
iovaykind said:
It shouldn't be much work just a drilled hole with two taps.
Playdoh and food wrapiovaykind said:
Yes the charge port is for bulk charging. Balance charging will be done by the BMS once I finish the firmware I'm writing for it - will be integrated with the Graphic LCDiovaykind said:
Expanding foam is tricky, tried that - might be better to just cut up bits of closed cell foamiovaykind said:
If I was doing it again I would build a full carbon frame from scratch which would have changed everything - but if I was doing it again with a DH comp I would have used a 2005 version for its 150mm dropout swingarm.I would have made a proper mold for the panels and vacuum bagged them. I would have used different paint. Possibly lighter dropouts (if I could get some). Probably done 20s 15AHr lipo because it would fit better. Still have to see how the bike goes.
By the way the polyurethane pour foam was a bad idea - would have been fine if I didn't have almost all the space taken up with batteries - there just isn't enough left to hold itself together - I have been making little fibreglass walls on the inside of the panels to hold the batteries.
Kiwi
1 kW
Hi Keyne.
I not completel sure of the year, but this is my one, it has 150mm DO's.
The other is a later model as below,
I also have a frame set, you might like to buy the swingarm of me its 150mm also.
Hope to arrange to meet you tomorrow, pretty busy at the moment, but wil try to make some time before you leave.
I not completel sure of the year, but this is my one, it has 150mm DO's.
The other is a later model as below,
I also have a frame set, you might like to buy the swingarm of me its 150mm also.
Hope to arrange to meet you tomorrow, pretty busy at the moment, but wil try to make some time before you leave.
manitu
100 W
edit: didn't see the first picture at first
The frame in the second picture is a late 2004 model (fall collection) or a non-usa 2005 model.
The other two are early 2004 models , or 2003 with a replacement swingarm.
The DH-Team was introduced in 2003. Changed the rear wheel to 150mm from 2004 because of the extreme chainline and rear wheel dishing dictated by the 100mm BB shell.
From mid-2004 the US models got the rear shock's piggy-back chamber mounted on the downtube.
Late 2004 , a frame with lower standover was introduced. This was sold in selected markets as the 2005 model, but in US and most of europe , the Giant Faith replaced the DH-Team.
.manitu
The frame in the second picture is a late 2004 model (fall collection) or a non-usa 2005 model.
The other two are early 2004 models , or 2003 with a replacement swingarm.
The DH-Team was introduced in 2003. Changed the rear wheel to 150mm from 2004 because of the extreme chainline and rear wheel dishing dictated by the 100mm BB shell.
From mid-2004 the US models got the rear shock's piggy-back chamber mounted on the downtube.
Late 2004 , a frame with lower standover was introduced. This was sold in selected markets as the 2005 model, but in US and most of europe , the Giant Faith replaced the DH-Team.
.manitu
keyne
100 W
After what seems like months of toil in my freezing garage (ok only every other weekend) I finally got my bike to a usable state! The wiring internal wiring on the battery pack is horrendous - lesson to all - design simple battery packs and leave extra space for cabling etc!!
Controller worked fine on first power up - great considering I never tested it before re-doing the wiring and beefing up the tracks. The 900W charger from BMS battery also worked fine (luckily I opened it up before powering it up - the fan connector was loose and the output fuse, though installed, was not wired up - what do you expect from BMS battery?
I had my first real ride on the DH comp yesterday (I'd tried it on 36v,30A before - underwhelming) 24s lipo at 75A. All I can say is wow!
Even better than I had expected. Admittedly it only had a 9x7 9C mounted in it, so low end torque was lacking. But it handles really well (after much frustration trying to tune the inaccessible rear shock), well balanced, low mass distribution. Handling on the bike feels great, rear shock is performing better than I had expected, and front forks are also great (just a bit heavy). The width between the knees is absolutely fine, I don't notice it at all. The only time I notice the width is when I stand straddling the bike, but because it is really rounded it feels fine.
Gets to max speed of 65kph on flat sealed road, over 70 down a slight hill according to my GPS. Much faster than I want and what it was designed for. I'm happy with my choice of HT3525 now, although I haven't tested it, I just need to get it going.
After my 30km ride on my favorite MTB trails (done in about a third the normal time) I managed to get a 2cm pinch flat ( I was experimenting with the suspension and rode straight at a curb at about 45kph) - stupid in retrospect. The rear tyre was at 20psi with a standard 26" tube in the 24" x 3" razorback - the flat was no surprise I guess. So after an unpleasent "ebike-walk-of-shame" through the village (not the way I had envisaged my first trip through the village on the new bike) I squeezed in a 26" DH tube and increased pressure to 25psi. had another good blast around some other favourite mtb trails - but the ride quality was not quite as good - I think I'll go back to 20psi, should be ok with the thick dh tubes and normal rocks/bumps.
I'm defiantly going to turn off throttle regen - it is great when you are constantly hammering it, but as soon as you try to use it at low powers like a normal bike it is just a pain because you can't coast.
I didn't have much monitoring equipment on board, just a few temperature monitors, a cell monitor and a GPS. The controller never got hotter than 40degrees, the battery pack never got over 23, but the motor was a problem. Most of my ride had it between 120 and 140deg, I had to stop every now and then to wait for it to cool down. This was a pretty low ambient temperatures - maybe 10deg - there is still some snow on the ground in the forest behind our house! This is on a stock 9x7 9C motor (but with doubled phase wires) so I guess no surprises it was over heating.
Now come the questions, does anyone know what current saturates the 9C magnets/windings? I'm guessing something like 60A because I couldn't feel difference between 70% and 100% on the 3 speed switch apart from higher top speed. What about the crystalyte X5 and HT/HS motors, what currents can they make use of?
I'll try to get some pictures and maybe a short video next weekend
The wiring internal wiring on the battery pack is horrendous - lesson to all - design simple battery packs and leave extra space for cabling etc!!Controller worked fine on first power up - great considering I never tested it before re-doing the wiring and beefing up the tracks. The 900W charger from BMS battery also worked fine (luckily I opened it up before powering it up - the fan connector was loose and the output fuse, though installed, was not wired up - what do you expect from BMS battery?
I had my first real ride on the DH comp yesterday (I'd tried it on 36v,30A before - underwhelming) 24s lipo at 75A. All I can say is wow!
Even better than I had expected. Admittedly it only had a 9x7 9C mounted in it, so low end torque was lacking. But it handles really well (after much frustration trying to tune the inaccessible rear shock), well balanced, low mass distribution. Handling on the bike feels great, rear shock is performing better than I had expected, and front forks are also great (just a bit heavy). The width between the knees is absolutely fine, I don't notice it at all. The only time I notice the width is when I stand straddling the bike, but because it is really rounded it feels fine.Gets to max speed of 65kph on flat sealed road, over 70 down a slight hill according to my GPS. Much faster than I want and what it was designed for. I'm happy with my choice of HT3525 now, although I haven't tested it, I just need to get it going.
After my 30km ride on my favorite MTB trails (done in about a third the normal time) I managed to get a 2cm pinch flat ( I was experimenting with the suspension and rode straight at a curb at about 45kph) - stupid in retrospect. The rear tyre was at 20psi with a standard 26" tube in the 24" x 3" razorback - the flat was no surprise I guess. So after an unpleasent "ebike-walk-of-shame" through the village (not the way I had envisaged my first trip through the village on the new bike) I squeezed in a 26" DH tube and increased pressure to 25psi. had another good blast around some other favourite mtb trails - but the ride quality was not quite as good - I think I'll go back to 20psi, should be ok with the thick dh tubes and normal rocks/bumps.
I'm defiantly going to turn off throttle regen - it is great when you are constantly hammering it, but as soon as you try to use it at low powers like a normal bike it is just a pain because you can't coast.
I didn't have much monitoring equipment on board, just a few temperature monitors, a cell monitor and a GPS. The controller never got hotter than 40degrees, the battery pack never got over 23, but the motor was a problem. Most of my ride had it between 120 and 140deg, I had to stop every now and then to wait for it to cool down. This was a pretty low ambient temperatures - maybe 10deg - there is still some snow on the ground in the forest behind our house! This is on a stock 9x7 9C motor (but with doubled phase wires) so I guess no surprises it was over heating.
Now come the questions, does anyone know what current saturates the 9C magnets/windings? I'm guessing something like 60A because I couldn't feel difference between 70% and 100% on the 3 speed switch apart from higher top speed. What about the crystalyte X5 and HT/HS motors, what currents can they make use of?
I'll try to get some pictures and maybe a short video next weekend