KZ440 road legal cafe racer

I spent a few evenings this week setting up the Vicor DC-DC converter. This little brick is an amazing bit of tech with some really impressive specs for the size. The V110A15C400BL has a capacity of 400W so can output ~29A at 13.8V which should be enough to keep the 12V system topped up!

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I've soldered the caps straight to the pin sockets and will use RTV silicone to secure everything in place. I found a similar setup used in an airframe... so if it can withstand those sorts of forces and vibrations, it should be appropriate for a lowly motorcycle :D

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$478? Seems a bit high to me
 
It was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I really wanted something that was small and light weight which could fit into the tank next to the other 12v goodies.
 
It was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I really wanted something that was small and light weight which could fit into the tank next to the other 12v goodies.
Fair enough. If size is the constraining factor, not much you can do about it.
 
I've been looking through some of the prismatic battery build threads and noticed compression being discussed for these. Sounds like I may need to add some extra spacer plates between the levels and strap the pack?
Very nice build ,spare no expense nice dc converter,
could you post pics of battery series connection?
i am building 24s pack, thanks
 
Very nice build ,spare no expense nice dc converter,
could you post pics of battery series connection?
i am building 24s pack, thanks
Thanks Peadar. I go into a bit of detail on the battery build in episode 3 of my build videos. But here are some photos as well. Just a note that I didn’t strap them together as well as they apparently need to be so I’ll be adjusting the way it’s all held together. For the terminals I bent the larger tab around the smaller one then used sections of aluminum extrusion to clamp them together. The 3d printed end caps help keep the terminals from shorting. This is entirely untested at this stage so I’m not sure of the longevity yet.
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I like the angle aluminum, keeping it flat,and helps with cooling.
You might need to punch holes in tabs if you are looking for big amps,
I'm going for three holes, I have a similar build going using the 8kw v4 motor
A lot of information under, pouch cell build, in the search box ,
Thanks for replying
Very nice frontend
 
Theres no going back now... the tank has been cut in half!

The space inside this thing isn't quite as much as it seemed before I chopped it, but it should be just enough to fit the PDM, an antigravity 801 battery, the DC DC converter and the charge controller. I'll throw the SOC meter on the top where the filler cap was but that'll need a bit more fabrication to raise the hole.

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I've tried a few different layouts but will probably need to cut and fab the inside a bit because there are a lot of contoured sections where the ignition coils and various mounts had to fit on the ICE bike. I'll try the cut and shut method to modify this lower pan to fit everything.

The concept is to weld a lip around the lower half, then thumbscrew the top of the tank to the lower half with a rubber seal between the two. I tried to find the least lumpy sections to cut along as it should make it easier to bend and weld the lip. I'm open to suggestions here as this part feels a bit like I'm flying by the seat of my pants.

I've also watched a few hours of YT videos on how to weld autobody sheet... so I can consider myself a pro now :D
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So quick update. I managed to weld the lip around the bottom pan without making a mess but once I started to butt weld 1mm sheet to replace the contours using my transformer MIG, I just ended up blowing holes through it even on the lowest setting. The lip was thicker gauge steel so it just worked.

This is a good catalyst for me to finally grab a TIG welder though… then I’ll need to cut out the patch and redo it. Slightly frustrating but I want this done properly.
 
I spent a few evenings this week setting up the Vicor DC-DC converter. This little brick is an amazing bit of tech with some really impressive specs for the size. The V110A15C400BL has a capacity of 400W so can output ~29A at 13.8V which should be enough to keep the 12V system topped up!

View attachment 353686
View attachment 353687

I've soldered the caps straight to the pin sockets and will use RTV silicone to secure everything in place. I found a similar setup used in an airframe... so if it can withstand those sorts of forces and vibrations, it should be appropriate for a lowly motorcycle :D

View attachment 353688
I noticed there are several of these units of varied ratings on the Bay of E. For reference... Vicor VI-2T1-EV Isolated DC/DC Converter - Through Hole | eBay

Some are much lower $ than any distributor, granted with the risk of being used and possibly non functioning.

Any chance you could share the caps (circuit choice) you used on your point wiring?
 
Interesting. Just ordered one, thanks for the tip.
Let us know how the used one works. Because that that price point, for that size, I might want to grab a couple of those for future projects.
 
I found this document to be helpful too. It has the schematic for the "test board" that outlines the various bypass cap sizes. I used this as the guide to set mine up.

They also have a calculator for working out the trim resistor to finetune the output voltage: Vicor Design Calculators

Digikey and a few other places also have socket kits available for these vicor units so you don’t have to solder directly to the pins. Makes the build a little easier and more maintainable.
 

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can you share distributors of the battery cells and bms? thanks
The BMS makes part of a full charger and controller kit. The distributor is Thunderstruck motors: Chargers. These guys have amazing support and are always quick to respond.

The batteries were sourced from Alibaba, from a supplier called General Electronics Technology Co. LTD., operating as GeB

They were also pretty good to deal with, not too many language issues. They operate out of HK.
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I grabbed a TIG this weekend gone so now I’ll be practicing for the next few weeks. All I can say is thank god for YouTube!

If anyone has some good resources with baseline settings for materials and thicknesses that would be really helpful. The learning curve for this seems to be near vertical.
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I grabbed a TIG this weekend gone so now I’ll be practicing for the next few weeks. All I can say is thank god for YouTube!

If anyone has some good resources with baseline settings for materials and thicknesses that would be really helpful. The learning curve for this seems to be near vertical.
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awesome thanks good luck with the tiging
 
I found this document to be helpful too. It has the schematic for the "test board" that outlines the various bypass cap sizes. I used this as the guide to set mine up.

They also have a calculator for working out the trim resistor to finetune the output voltage: Vicor Design Calculators

Digikey and a few other places also have socket kits available for these vicor units so you don’t have to solder directly to the pins. Makes the build a little easier and more maintainable.
This is excellent. I was doing manual calculations and scouting parts, but this verifies and helps A LOT.

I was thinking about those socket kits too, but they end up being more than I paid for the unit. Since I don't plan on a production run for my backwoods build, I wonder if I can procure something lasting without those sockets. It looked like you managed to with your test photos(?). Does your method seem well enough to last, maybe add some electrical safe silicone on the components for stability?
 
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This is excellent. I was doing manual calculations and scouting parts, but this verifies and helps A LOT.

I was thinking about those socket kits too, but they end up being more than I paid for the unit. Since I don't plan on a production run for my backwoods build, I wonder if I can procure something lasting without those sockets. It looked like you managed to with your test photos(?). Does your method seem well enough to last, maybe add some electrical safe silicone on the components for stability?
Yeah I used the sockets, but only because I wanted the option to screw up and not damage the converter as I did kinda get fleeced for it. To be honest the whole thing went together without issue so it’s really only useful from a possible future maintenance perspective. The hardest part was working out how best to solder those massive output cables without a separate board.

I actually had some RTV silicone on order to glue everything down, but didn’t have it when the photos were taken. Thats definitely the plan!
 
Assuming the ebay special works, I'll be making a PCB to mount it. The minimum number of PCB's I can order is 5. Happy to give away the extra's.
 
For a given wattage, those brick modules are the same form factor. So the PCB's will be universal.
Update. That EBAY order got cancelled by the seller.... Hmmm..
 
For a given wattage, those brick modules are the same form factor. So the PCB's will be universal.
Update. That EBAY order got cancelled by the seller.... Hmmm..
Cancelled , that is no good. After you'd made purchase? Hopefully reimbursement or redeem and shipment comes through. Sorry to hear that though. Kind of worried the Bay listings are a preverbal mine field. The one I $ a few days ago still has not shipped either ...
 
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