I found another vendor on EBAY and ordered. it was only a lot more.
KZ440 road legal cafe racer
- Thread starter Buildsix
- Start date
at least you found one - and I assume it was less than retail with the AU tax.
About AUD200
peadar
100 W
Ordered 2, they arrived today ups i got an email saying so,I'm away at the moment, will check back in a couple of days when I get back and test them, $13 for 2Glad to share, and hat tip to @Buildsix for the OG mention.
Here is another, though slightly lower voltage and ~ 13a max out, but maybe in the too affordable territory...
(Lot of 5) Vicor DC to DC Converter 200VDC 200W Input to 12VDC 200W Output | eBay
Product: DC to DC Converter. Excellent Condition Surplus.www.ebay.com
peadar
100 W
Vicor dc converter,
might need it's own page?
There seems to lot to discuss
might need it's own page?
There seems to lot to discuss
peadar
100 W
They came well packaged and work
That was a steal!
peadar
100 W
Sorry to interrupt your page,but you started it and thanks for that, very light, ran my led headlamp 1.2 amp led highbeam and all is well, maybe I can up the voltage to max 13.2v?
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No problem. I'm glad I was able to give everyone a steer on a new component option. You may be able to trim the output up a bit, I do recall there being a bit of wiggle room in the outputs for all of these (at least the current series). Just check the spec sheet to see what the +/- output thresholds are.
peadar
100 W
I ran it at 40v to see 5.6v,
Have tested At 96 v and ok
Need to test at around 80v or so for low voltage
Have tested At 96 v and ok
Need to test at around 80v or so for low voltage
Just in case you missed it, Vicor have a calculator for working out the trim resistor to finetune the output voltages: Vicor Design Calculators
peadar
100 W
Got it , good info ,you the man.
We have similar builds going,
Encore again @Buildsix for sharing this knowledge.
I finished assembly, but have yet to be able to test due to battery construction complications.
I ended up bending ring terminals at the buss connections for component soldering to substitute for the junctions offered by the manuf. These ring connections also assure mechanical connection for the high and low I/O. Which, considering how much thermal mass the wires and unit could soak up, I did not want to risk frying any internals with my sub-rated soldering iron.
I still need to select a firm but shock absorbing material to stabilize the add-on components. Anyone know of something that could be procured 'local'? Do the types of RTV available at most auto parts stores have usability in this application? Are they conductive or corrosive?
I finished assembly, but have yet to be able to test due to battery construction complications.
I ended up bending ring terminals at the buss connections for component soldering to substitute for the junctions offered by the manuf. These ring connections also assure mechanical connection for the high and low I/O. Which, considering how much thermal mass the wires and unit could soak up, I did not want to risk frying any internals with my sub-rated soldering iron.
I still need to select a firm but shock absorbing material to stabilize the add-on components. Anyone know of something that could be procured 'local'? Do the types of RTV available at most auto parts stores have usability in this application? Are they conductive or corrosive?
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You are looking for a 'neutral cure' silicone. They will usually say that they are compatible with metals on the package.
In my country, "Roof and gutter sealant" is a common application for them.
If in doubt, and as a final check, smell the stuff. If you smell a sweet, pungent, acetic acid (think crushed ants) smell then don't use it on metal.
Another option is polyurethane, Sikaflex make some and have good resources on their website.
peadar
100 W
Need help with the capacitor sizing?
I'm trying to salvage the capacitors from old pcbs tvs and such , approx will be fine,I found the 450v 100mf ,
I am going to use 418k resistor to up voltage to 13.2v ,96v battery,
Do I need to use all the capacitors you show? I just using it for lights and some small relays.
Thanks in advance
I will refer ya to the links for the makers design guide that were shared previously in this thread.
Those documents recommend the components I sourced and installed. Testing is still pending, so I cannot speak of their functionality, yet.
It is awesome to read that you're recycling the components.
Edit: As mentioned in the following post, recycling electrolytic capacitors might cost more in the long run. Thanks @PK2000
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Folks, just a tip from an electronics guy. It's not the best idea to salvage electrolytic caps. Over time the electrolyte dries out and their capacitance drops. Heating them with a soldering iron accelerates this process. A 4uF 400V cap costs a few cents.
Quick update - I spent a large chunk of Sunday on the struggle bus, patching and making brackets from super thin 0.8mm sheet steel. All that said I’m happy with the progress now.
No-one will mistake me for a welder, but things are stuck together along the lines of what I had in mind, and my welding is very slowly getting better. The old tank material was constantly blowing through even at 30amps. Any lower and the filler rod wouldn’t melt properly. In the end, it’s functional. That’s about all I can say about it. I may have inadvertently started with the most difficult type of material though. Just glad this part won’t be visible
It looks like the space inside the tank will be more than enough for the 12v goodies and the DC DC brick. The mounting brackets are also working quite well.
Thanks again for the tidy battery option @PK2000 - both this and the AG801 now fit. I just need to make a decision on the 12v battery and charging method, then lock in the final design to weld the last couple of brackets before paint.
No-one will mistake me for a welder, but things are stuck together along the lines of what I had in mind, and my welding is very slowly getting better. The old tank material was constantly blowing through even at 30amps. Any lower and the filler rod wouldn’t melt properly. In the end, it’s functional. That’s about all I can say about it. I may have inadvertently started with the most difficult type of material though. Just glad this part won’t be visible
It looks like the space inside the tank will be more than enough for the 12v goodies and the DC DC brick. The mounting brackets are also working quite well.
Thanks again for the tidy battery option @PK2000 - both this and the AG801 now fit. I just need to make a decision on the 12v battery and charging method, then lock in the final design to weld the last couple of brackets before paint.
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I have to say, aluminum is much easier to weld than sheet steel. Here is my 5th attempt ever at aluminum;
Still have a lot more practice to make this type of weld consistently on mixed thickness parts, but I’m starting to get a bit more comfortable with it.
I ended up not using the housing for the dc-dc converter because it was going to be just a bit too deep to fit comfortably in the tank space. I settled on welding a few tabs to the heatsink and using glands to keep it all stable. I’ll add some plastic shielding over the terminals but this will work much better for space.
I’m still waiting for the thermal membrane to arrive so once that’s here and I finalize the output trim level, the rtv will get added.
This is the rubber profile I’ll be using around the lip on the bottom half of the tank to keep it all water tight:
I’ll look at finishing the brackets and getting the tank together this coming week so I can finish roughing in the 12v wiring - then I’ll finally have enough material to get the next episode done. It’s been slow going this last month
Still have a lot more practice to make this type of weld consistently on mixed thickness parts, but I’m starting to get a bit more comfortable with it.
I ended up not using the housing for the dc-dc converter because it was going to be just a bit too deep to fit comfortably in the tank space. I settled on welding a few tabs to the heatsink and using glands to keep it all stable. I’ll add some plastic shielding over the terminals but this will work much better for space.
I’m still waiting for the thermal membrane to arrive so once that’s here and I finalize the output trim level, the rtv will get added.
This is the rubber profile I’ll be using around the lip on the bottom half of the tank to keep it all water tight:
I’ll look at finishing the brackets and getting the tank together this coming week so I can finish roughing in the 12v wiring - then I’ll finally have enough material to get the next episode done. It’s been slow going this last month
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GaryDe
10 mW
Looks like you have found your hidden Talent....welding aluminum is pretty tricky compared to steel!
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
Welding aluminium feels a lot closer to soldering imo. The welding rod behaves a lot like solder which maybe why I’m a bit more comfortable with it. I’ve been playing with electronics for like 25 years.
This is a nice design.
Bit of an update from today. The 12v wiring is now roughed in and connected to the motogadget mo.unit. I decided to re-run the wiring loom from scratch to minimize everything, optimize it for the PDM, and also because it will run a floating earth.
I didn’t know what to expect from the mo.unit but it was incredibly easy to get going. All the functions work out of the box so I literally plugged it in and momentary push buttons activate everything correctly. I’m really impressed with this thing!
I also downloaded and paired the phone app to see what it can do and have to say, it’s going to be a lot of fun! Lots of great stats for the dash, and the unit can be completely configured remotely via the phone.
I didn’t know what to expect from the mo.unit but it was incredibly easy to get going. All the functions work out of the box so I literally plugged it in and momentary push buttons activate everything correctly. I’m really impressed with this thing!
I also downloaded and paired the phone app to see what it can do and have to say, it’s going to be a lot of fun! Lots of great stats for the dash, and the unit can be completely configured remotely via the phone.
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Hi Friends, its been a while since I posted, mainly because of slow progress. I've had to refocus a lot of my attention on *shudder* maintenance work at home for the last few months.
I've managed to make a bit of progress over the last couple of weekends though. The 12V system is now completely roughed in and all of the components appear to be working - without releasing smoke.
I'd also like to shout out to PK2000 for giving me a steer on the charging circuit for the 12V backup battery that we need for meeting the local regs. I think this is a workable solution that tested ok on the bench, but I'll put it through the wringer once the bike is on the ground. Rightly or wrongly, this is what I came up with in the end to mitigate some of the shortcomings of the motogadget kit and maintaining uninterrupted power to the dash:
For anyone who is following along, or wants to see how this is all coming together, episode 4 is now on YT.
Please feel free to give some feedback no the videos to make them more engaging.
I've managed to make a bit of progress over the last couple of weekends though. The 12V system is now completely roughed in and all of the components appear to be working - without releasing smoke.
I'd also like to shout out to PK2000 for giving me a steer on the charging circuit for the 12V backup battery that we need for meeting the local regs. I think this is a workable solution that tested ok on the bench, but I'll put it through the wringer once the bike is on the ground. Rightly or wrongly, this is what I came up with in the end to mitigate some of the shortcomings of the motogadget kit and maintaining uninterrupted power to the dash:
For anyone who is following along, or wants to see how this is all coming together, episode 4 is now on YT.
Please feel free to give some feedback no the videos to make them more engaging.
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