Lets play build a battery.

litespeed said:
timbodaciois said:
:? DAMN TOM MY BRAIN IS GOING TO EXPLODE.
Ok here goes nothing.... I am fine with my packs being 200 volts/300 volts with lower amps. Lets say i am designing a fancy frame for kickstarter / indiegogo because as i believe if its electric it should have a hard sci fi futuristic look to it. Help my brain one more time if you will lol. Lets cut the highway distance to 25 miles with a little more kick from higher voltage to lower battery weight and go with the idea that if someone wanted to ride this bike for short faster trips on the highway they would flip the switch to the high voltage pack and for around towning switch to a smaller 100 volt 2600 watt pack. My main hurdle here is that i am trying to stay away from making the bike look like a refrigerator on two wheels and i am shying away from the typical styling people follow to make electric bikes look just like gas bikes. It just doesnt feel right to me. My add is raging right now so if you could give me a rough estimate for the two packs that would be awesome. Most likely ill just have them made by someone else for the first prototype build to get it up and running. Thanks for your time i appreciate it.

The motor your wanting to use only goes up to 120 volts it says........200 to 300 volts I don’t think is doable. I’ll help you figure what ever but I don’t believe these voltages will work. https://www.goldenmotor.com/frame-bldcmotor.htm

Hmmm.....

Tom

Thanks for the help it is appreciated. Going to switch up the design so the bike can run off of a single 10kw motor @120 volts or two 10kw motors, each motor with its own dedicated battery pack. The only way this works fluidly is if one throttle can control two controllers at once. Is that possible with a simple switching device? Also so it is clear I only wanted this bike to be able to hit slow lane freeway speeds for a short time to pique interest among enthusiasts who have short commutes to work. Lets cut the 80lbs of batteries down to 60 lbs and give it a maximum 25 miles at slow lane speeds. My aim is more of an adventure bike with the perk of long range and be able to slip under police radar to some degree. There are a few other perks here but the patent is still pending if you catch my drift lol
 
as long as the ground is common and you use identical controllers (or at least identical processing boards) you can run dual controllers of a single trottle. i have done this multiple times with 6 phase motors that need dual controllers. you can also run the front motor on a lower setting so you keep the rear wheel drive feeling and dont have to worry about the front wheel doing weird stuff under full acceleration.

added bonus is that you can have the front controller do a LOT of regen compared to the rear. that way you can recoup a lot of power using the front controller only.
 
flippy said:
as long as the ground is common and you use identical controllers (or at least identical processing boards) you can run dual controllers of a single trottle. i have done this multiple times with 6 phase motors that need dual controllers. you can also run the front motor on a lower setting so you keep the rear wheel drive feeling and dont have to worry about the front wheel doing weird stuff under full acceleration.

added bonus is that you can have the front controller do a LOT of regen compared to the rear. that way you can recoup a lot of power using the front controller only.

Hey cool thanks. I wont be using hub motors though i dont really like them. Ive got one motor on each side one spins in reverse rotation and they spin a jackshaft which powers the wheel. An added perk with the motors this way is that ive left some space in the design to have changeable gearing on them, one motor can be geared for low end and one for top end or whatever suits my needs for riding. Regen should still work in this configuration. Still need to play legos with the batteries setup. On another note is it possible to use one cycle analyst between the two?
 
Thread bump!

Due to space constraints i need to change his battery build.
Ill be running a 10kw 72v motor from goldenmotor.com @ 96v with a 500a controller.

The motor peaks at 20kw.

Due to the space constraints i would like to 4 runmodular batteries. I would like to run two packs up front and two packs in the rear which would be removable like a zero fxs. Also at a minimum i would like to run just one pack if my requirements for distance and speed are low.

I dont mind having 720 cells of 30q like the last battery tom presented but i need that divided into 4 packs. Ideally i would like each pack to be between 90-100v+ and at least 100 amps per pack and each pack needs its own bms. Any help is appreciated thanks guys.
 
I'd modify an existing frame around a commercially available electric car battery module. Something in the range of 4kwhrs to 12kwhrs. ( or find a frame that fits those modules - unlikely tho )

It'd be the only way i'd do a motorcycle today. Those used EV car batteries are too cheap to ignore, and you can't really use them on bicycles.

It will also take one of the most laborious steps out of the build process - building a battery..
 
neptronix said:
I'd modify an existing frame around a commercially available electric car battery module. Something in the range of 4kwhrs to 12kwhrs. ( or find a frame that fits those modules - unlikely tho )

It'd be the only way i'd do a motorcycle today. Those used EV car batteries are too cheap to ignore, and you can't really use them on bicycles.

It will also take one of the most laborious steps out of the build process - building a battery..

come on now that would be too easy haha. I would tear apart a used ev battery to get the cells tho.
 
neptronix said:
Those used EV car batteries are too cheap to ignore, and you can't really use them on bicycles.
Depends on the bike design; CrazyBike2 holds a decent sized rectangular battery in the center frame, and also under each side of the seat (your Cannondale could do the latter easily enough).

Various longbike designs can do similar things, especially if they're designed for cargo.

On a trike of the right design they'd be easy to fit too, like inside SB Cruiser's cargo/seat box.


Regular "diamond frame" bikes...yeah, those would be more difficult to do this on.
 
wow, that is a whole new level of stupid...

that has to be at least 50kg of lead.

does look nice...
 
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