• Howdy! we're looking for donations to finish custom knowledgebase software for this forum. Please see our Funding drive thread

LightningRods mid drive kit

The crank arm has a threaded "spigot" that threads into the center of the freewheel. There's no adapter in there. You have to hold the center section of the freewheel so that you can spin the crank off counter-clockwise. I've used needle nose pliers held in a vice to makeshift a tool to hold the center of the freewheel from the back side.

If you're sending the arm back to me for machining for a W-I HD freewheel you can leave the old freewheel in place and I'll remove it for you.
 
Mike is quickly becoming the new Sheldon Brown.
 
I think that honor goes to Spinningmagnets. I just want a project to get lost in. I learn as much as I need to in order to do my project. 'Magnets wants to know everything about everything. That's a Sheldon Brown.
 
I'll be happy to post a photo of the crank once I have one done. This will not be a money maker for me. My machinist will want enough money for the work that I'll probably just offer the mod at my cost as an improvement to the kit. The W-I flanged freewheels are also not money makers for me because SBP has a monopoly on them. But if I have fewer customer complaints about broken freewheels- that's better than money. :mrgreen:
 
LightningRods said:
I'll be happy to post a photo of the crank once I have one done. This will not be a money maker for me. My machinist will want enough money for the work that I'll probably just offer the mod at my cost as an improvement to the kit. The W-I flanged freewheels are also not money makers for me because SBP has a monopoly on them. But if I have fewer customer complaints about broken freewheels- that's better than money. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, they are an expensive piece to make a mistake on too though.

I actually contacted WI a while back asking if they could design a rear hub to take their own freewheel, but they wanted me to put forward the design.

Not my field to play with 3D software.

I wonder if there is a disc brake hub out there somewhere that takes a thread on (in MTB sizes). My hub motor has a WI HD with a 48t SPB sprocket that has never missed a beat. (the hub motor axle broke on the other sdde, then put the freewheel on another 26" laced hub motor still going strong)

247128_10153103431454845_7289998172916184088_n.jpg
 
If you look at the size of the pawls in a freehub they seem like they are going to be more super duper ne plus ultra heavier duty than anything that will fit inside of a freewheel cog. The problems are usually with the external splines of the freehub because of the knife thin bicycle cogs cutting into the aluminum body. I'm going to start with a steel freehub body and then design special cogs and spacers. With any luck it will be very strong and offer a lot of options on gearing that don't currently exist. On the drawing board now.


http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.coresites.factorymedia.com%2Fdirt_new%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F04%2Fhope-pawls.jpg
 
Jitsi cranks,

just double tripple check, these cranks feed all the way in? Are they designed differently to the LR / cyclone / sbp type of standard cranks?

I only know of cheeky bloke buying some mods cranks and they didn't fit so he had to mod, and now Mike was talking of machining stuff...

Do they space out the freewheel differently to standard lr / dicta?

sorry just want to make sure before blowing another $100

cheers
 
Jitsi lists their crank's threaded spigot at 13mm long. The Cyclone spigot is 15mm long. Normal freewheel cog threads are 11mm to the shoulder. I have no idea what the Jitsi crank would do to sprocket alignment. That could be adjusted with spacers.
 
LightningRods said:
I think that honor goes to Spinningmagnets. I just want a project to get lost in. I learn as much as I need to in order to do my project. 'Magnets wants to know everything about everything. That's a Sheldon Brown.
Click to expand...


hear, hear....
 
have reinstalled the new jackshaft with sprocket and bearings. Was running 13t shaft 80t with 32t chainring. Will be running 12t - 64t - 30t.

my rough speed calculations: 8% decrease - 20% increase - 6% decrease = about 6% increase overall.

Still with a top speed under 40kmh. Change was to get more ground clearance for logs, roots, rocks. 64t is the smallest that will clear chains safely and is still lower than the kit to the ground.

12472305_10153917069249845_4010336976138649397_n.jpg


The most valuable tool during the jack shaft reinstall that I must share with those who may need to do one and have never heard of it is a thread file.
 
we where fooling around in the woods again

[youtube]Z-KX2CIokdg[/youtube]

still everything runs smooth, no changes, so i started to get in the CA-settings a bit deeper to get my throttle better and maybe increase the power a bit more :roll:

i have set the CA to 3800W because i cant see peaks over 3300W.
Maybe its just because the controller is a 12 fet infineon and its 40amp max?
I have set the CA to 47amp now.

John Bozi: im not sure why, but when setting the throttle to WOT, i leaved the setup on the CA and the bike imediately fly away. Haha...

Same thing on my buddys Bike (he have copied my settings for now), when he tried AMP instead of WOT.
So some bikes flying around, but no better throttle yet, and there is clearly something wrong in my CA-settings

cheers guys
 
sorry for the misunderstanding Foepel

WOT to me means wide open throttle. As when I am riding up rough terrain up a steep mountain I grab the throttle with my hand and pull it right back 100%.

The CA is so gradual that I don't have any problems even running at almost 5kw. If I did that without the CA I would be in hospital with back injuries.

I use the amp setting on the CA.

Easy to remember 5 5 5

Thr0 Uprate

5.08 v/sec

Fast rate 5 v/sec

Fast thrash 5amps


Downrate 20 V/sec (this should always be super fast so no changes from default)

I tinker very tiny amounts with those 5 5 5 settings. like 5.08 or 4.99 but not much

I also have Plim A gain at 111

* I got my kit all running last night and the rear hub has got something wrong with it again. Until I get more time I guess pawls or bearings have failed.
 
LightningRods said:
If you look at the size of the pawls in a freehub they seem like they are going to be more super duper ne plus ultra heavier duty than anything that will fit inside of a freewheel cog. The problems are usually with the external splines of the freehub because of the knife thin bicycle cogs cutting into the aluminum body. I'm going to start with a steel freehub body and then design special cogs and spacers. With any luck it will be very strong and offer a lot of options on gearing that don't currently exist. On the drawing board now.


http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.coresites.factorymedia.com%2Fdirt_new%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F04%2Fhope-pawls.jpg
Click to expand...

In my case the outer shell is totally flawless with the 4 of those single speed holders. We are given an easy opportunity to create a large footprint on the outside. The problem lies with the pawl contact. Well for my second wheel anyway. (first wheel died due to bearing failure, but it was second hand so doesn't count). The bearings are running smoothe on my brand new wheel.
On the Nuke Proof you can see the opposite system where the teeth are on the freehub. 6 pawls with double teeth grip. Quite shallow in my opinion compared to others.

I opened it up after I got a live chain to find tiny staple sized filaments broken off jamming up the the pawls which were mostly undamaged compared to the teeth. I thought the chain might be skipping but the pawls were at first until then jamming up on and off.

This is the area that needs to be redesigned or DT SWISS might work better with the star system.

My last drive train failure may well have been caused by a live chain being pushed forwards without correct tension at the top of the cycle having a chance to derail over the chainring and then jamming up with nuts the kit etc....

12006173_10153923415999845_4719124589366509596_n.jpg

12936582_10153923416059845_1592379517391210389_n.jpg


More pics of the hub https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153923415214845&set=oa.911538792248523&type=3&theater
 
Hey John Bozi, yeah i thought that i misunderstood something when bikes started fly around

thanks for the 5 5 5-tip, will test that at the next ride. i tested the throttle-range with the CA, seems to be oke (0 to 4,something, forgot), so i think its really just my messed up CA-settings.

Oh no, is this your new hub? the nookproof one? hope for you that it is still usable.
My Vision-hub is also one with pawls, not sure how long they will hold.

Now two of my buddys run the DT-Swiss, theyr both happy with it.
 
Hi,

did anyone ever measure the KV of the LR small and bigblock ?
i would need it for some battery-pack to reduction calculations

thanks

Gernot
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

U
Lightning Rods Big block belt mid drive / No longer for sale
Replies
1
Views
692
Universalus
U
EVGator
EEB Mid Drive Bike - Complete or Part out
Replies
3
Views
1,107
skeetab5780
skeetab5780
R
    • Like
L-Faster / Dome Motor 450W Mid-Drive Build
2
Replies
25
Views
3,413
DanGT86
DanGT86
chuyskywalker
Kona Stinky Restore
2
Replies
29
Views
2,565
calab
C
justin_le
Upcoming Major Changes and Updates to the ES Site
Replies
11
Views
1,352
Two4Seven SuprDan
Two4Seven SuprDan
Back
Top