firstly make sure OVS is set to 0, as it can throw of initial tuning
run atodetect
if the motor after its initial clunking around to get the hall sequence and phase R doesn't spin up relatively fast/draws more than no load should really be, stop and start the auto again (this happened to me, basically it got itself into a false positive hall/phase combo and was trying to tune itself based on that - lots of heat for motor and controller!)
tune the throttle
once the auto's got some semblance of the right settings, time to start on the manual tuning
for me, i used the eco power setting to keep phase/bat currents low (makes it easy to maintain certain no load speeds) in combo with the speed limit, so set these pretty low, maybe 5A battery and 25A phase, no speed limit, no acc limit
check you've got it right on p23 of http://adaptto.com/MANUALS/Mini-Max-User-Manual-ENG.pdf
go to advanced settings and put ang correction and ind timing to 0
spin the motor up at low to mid speeds (just enough so it spins @ 5-25% of max rpm)
move the ang cor a few points (+-, doesn't matter at this point)
spin up slowly again
repeat till it sounds as quiet as possible at 5-15% max rpm - should mean your ang correction is close to correct.
if your not sure, change it from your current point by a good 5-10deg or more, it should sound progressively worse going up or down from the 'right' point, right to the point where it doesn't spin at all. you've got phase amps set nice and low so it shouldn't cook anything, so play away.
once ang corr is roughly right, rev the motor slowly up to max no load, at some point it'll start getting loud with a low pitch rumble, a sign that the phase angle is less than needed - time to start increasing ind timing
keep spinning it up, increasing ind timing by 50-100 each time until the motor eventually 'runs away' - basically hits a certain rpm and then accelerates suddenly - this is a sign that the phase angle is increasing too quickly, ie ind timing is too high. roll ind timing back to about 80% of this value (so if you get the 'runaway' situation at 200nS, then roll it back to about 160ish)
Now add in some ovs, change it to 1 or 2, and repeat the ind timing. you'll probably find you'll have to roll it back another 10% or so if its anything like my rv100pro. at no point should the motor enter the 'runaway' point.
the motor should be roghly tuned now, as well as i coudl get without hooking up to a oscilloscope anyway (which i still havent done).
pwr timing and stuff arn't direcly related to the tuning of the motor and controller's hall angles, so ill leave it at that. might copy this to my build thread...
:wink: 
