John Bozi
100 kW
your tensioning bar is different to the later bolt nut bits on the outside 
Föppel said:Hey Samer, nice bike man! I really like the shape of the v10
Did you get rid of the chainwheel-wobble?
i found a CA-manual in my native language, so i was able to get the throttle better, and finaly understand some setting-parameters better, but thanks for the offer.
then, last ride, my jackshaft axle bent. still the first badge, weak steel-axle...
before riding, i mentioned a change in belt tension (first time for about 500km without tooling/tensioning someting)... and i didnt set it properly before riding on 75v40amps... axle bent on the 219-side, where there is more force, shiat!
So i will upgrade this part soon, and maybe do some other changes to make the bike lighter.
Föppel said:oh, oke, didnt know that there was any changing in that part of the kit.
well, the 18T didnt fit my tensioner, i had to dremel out some material, but now it wits nice:
So it looked before, you can see where the 219 chain touches the Tensioner
i also added a mudguard, my kit was filled with 0,5kg of dry dirt when i changed the bent axle.
hope i did the right amount of decal-stickers on it, guess that will make it bit more torque... or was it angular momentum, im confused a bit![]()
Samer said:Föppel said:Hey Samer, nice bike man! I really like the shape of the v10
Did you get rid of the chainwheel-wobble?
i found a CA-manual in my native language, so i was able to get the throttle better, and finaly understand some setting-parameters better, but thanks for the offer.
then, last ride, my jackshaft axle bent. still the first badge, weak steel-axle...
before riding, i mentioned a change in belt tension (first time for about 500km without tooling/tensioning someting)... and i didnt set it properly before riding on 75v40amps... axle bent on the 219-side, where there is more force, shiat!
So i will upgrade this part soon, and maybe do some other changes to make the bike lighter.
Hey foppel
sounds good man , i end up taking out my CA from my v10 it works pretty much the same , less cables around , the bike locks better too,
the wobble on freewheel went away after few rides
you must been going hard on your bike to bend the shaft
do you know that little plate that holds 2 bolts to tensioner the belt , my one start bend up , does your one ever bent?
it is soo tin
making up new brackets to remove that ugly rose claps that hold the motor, will build it with carbonfiber
DingusMcGee said:Slowco,
I have a 2009 Toyota Rav 4 with the 4cy at 179 hp. I could have got the car with the v-6 at 283 hp. These cars do hold up to the 283 hp as we see it does. The ratio is 1.58 but it seems more likely the Rav 4 would hold up to 358 hp better than the LR s-block does to 3000 watts.
Yeah, thats what i like the most! All the stuff i was trying with the kit so far, wouldnt be possible on an other "platform". Also if you messed up with your gearing calculation, you can order an other sprocket and everything is fineLightningRods said:One of the reasons that mid drives are so much more interesting to me than hub motors is that there is a lot to play with. Multiple speeds, higher or lower gearing, combining pedal and motor power, running them parallel, all of this makes it possible to make a mid drive what you want it to be.
Howlermonkey said:Toyota's way of dealing with the excessive torque of the 2gr v6 engine in the rav4 was to stop offering it.
Of course, we do have some running around with 400 or more horsepower.