Lights

Mathurin

100 kW
Joined
May 24, 2006
Messages
1,166
Location
Quebec
Allright so I've been thinking about 12v halogens for light, mounted in pvc pipe fittings or something.

See xyster's bike's lights:
img_1938b_161.jpg



From the looks of it, seems it works out pretty well.
But what about a rear light?
 
Ah, from what I read on DIY websites with theese, seems 20w bulbs are ok but 50w are not
 
I've seen 5w Luxeon flashlights on eBay going for around $20. Those make pretty good headlights.
 
There's three 12v LED's on the rear I bought from Lowe's. They're mounted one to each side of the rear battery box, and wired to switch on when the main power is on -- that way I don't accidentally leave the bike on :) No, the heat doesn't melt the PVC. The lights are secured in the pipes with silicon glue. The pipes are secured to the bike with nuts and bolts extending down through hose clamps.

I bought the halogen lights on the front from batteryspace. If I had it to do over, I'd use only the larger MR16 lights -- due to the larger mirror size, MR16's put out much more light per watt than the smaller MR11's.

B.S. lights:
http://tinyurl.com/8rrz5
 
xyster said:
Click for full size pic:

The forum will "thumbnail" images larger than 128K as a precaution (in case the image was 2048X2048 or something, LOL), but after you attach an image, if you think it will fit in the forum just fine you can actually click the "delete thumbnail" and it will put the picture in at full size. As with any feature here at the forum, use it with care :wink:
 
Thanks, knightmiesterbiker (knightmb?),

Figuring most screens these days are at minimum 1024x768 XGA, I usually post pics of 800-900 pixels width.

Where's "delete thumbnail"?
I see only "delete attachment" which appears to delete the whole picture.
 
I bought a couple of 20W halogens and sockets from Batteryspace, and assembled one of them into something like this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/E3BGQT6Y7PEP286N6P/

But Xyster's 7-light directed-energy-weapon setup looks to have the added benefit that you could go riding after a rain shower, and it would dry the road ahead of you as you ride! Or melt snow in the winter!

Jay
 
Batteryspace's DIY forum pages are also rich with interesting ideas.

Here's one article that's quite well done!
http://forums.batteryspace.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6574

Here's that forum's index page
http://forums.batteryspace.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=20


---

Recently I bought a B.S. NiMH 14.4V water bottle battery w/ charger.
It overvolts the 20W lamp nicely--still giving it 15V at past the half hour mark; good for about 2 hours run time total.

12V on the lamps just doesn't make the white light that I need.
I had looked into using a spare, low-end controller--and it worked, but it was fiddly to adjust, and unstable at such a low current draw (someone else could've made it work, no doubt).

So now I use the dedicated lighting battery, and it's a good light--that 12 degree MR16 spot. It's fine for 25mph city street driving.
People see me coming and I can see the road surfaces ahead.

I'll put up a picture later of the bottle and the switch.

Strobe report: I bought a Lightman self-powered (two AA) personal strobe. It's a disappointment for the fact that it's not all that powerful from any distance. It's an amber unit on the back of the bike.
On the first night drive, at 3AM, on a desolate road, a cop stopped me.
I did not have a headlight on that night; only a flashlight on the handlebar--and the Lightman on the rear.

The cop approached from the rear. He was concerned.

"Hey, if you don't mind--you'd be a lot safer on the bike path. Your bike is not very visable, and some drunk will be coming up this road at eighty, and you aren't visible untill the last moment."

I didn't believe the cop at first. I parked the bike on its kickstand and I walked back a hundred feet. The amber Lightman was visible---but it wasn't anything that really arrested the eye. Not at all!.

---SOOOOO, why? The Lightman used a teeny-tiny strobe bulb.
I will get a Velleman strobe (cheaper and a lot more strobe too).

But the main-est thing for nighttime See-Me is that decent headlight.
The 20W MR 16, overvolted, is the main See-Me defense here.

Xyster's multiple headlight approach must be even better.

I'm gonna order that Velleman strobe right now.

L M, f, x, k and J,

thanks

__________

addendum: a review of the Velleman
5 out of 5 stars Another happy cyclist 09/22/2005
Reviewer: ItsJustMe from Michigan
These should be required equipment on the backs of bicycles riding at night. I commute 10 miles summer and winter. When I mounted this light, suddenly cars started giving me a lot more room on the road. Highly recommended
By way of contrast, my Lightman does not deter cars--

it just doesn't have the candlepower of a regular strobe like the Velleman,
or match the bulb length/flash power of what I can get at the auto parts store in the way of novelty strobes.

I suppose the Lightman is that way (with a tiny little bulb) so it can operate on two AA batteries. It's a very nicely engineered product in all respects.
Quality, but not as bright as some would like it to be.
 
xyster said:
Thanks, knightmiesterbiker (knightmb?),

Figuring most screens these days are at minimum 1024x768 XGA, I usually post pics of 800-900 pixels width.

Where's "delete thumbnail"?
I see only "delete attachment" which appears to delete the whole picture.

Hmm, I wonder if it's an admin only feature. I'll have to create a test account to see. I went ahead and remove the thumbnail for you though :wink:
 
I did something much like the indestructables link that Jay posted but used a different backing plate - it was cheaper and I think it looks better. Then I spraypainted the whole thing black. I used a 20W 12V halogen bulb which I'm running at 14.4V using a 4s2p 2.2Ah lithium ion pack that I put into a water bottle. I charge it with the same charger that I'm using for my 16s8p primary e-bike pack.

I was thinking about making a dual-light set up using 24V 20W halogens (which are hard to find but appear to be used on sailboats...) and then driving it straight from my primary pack... but so far the single 12V light works well enough.
 

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knightmb said:
xyster said:
Thanks, knightmiesterbiker (knightmb?),

Figuring most screens these days are at minimum 1024x768 XGA, I usually post pics of 800-900 pixels width.

Where's "delete thumbnail"?
I see only "delete attachment" which appears to delete the whole picture.

Hmm, I wonder if it's an admin only feature. I'll have to create a test account to see. I went ahead and remove the thumbnail for you though :wink:
Turns out it was an admin only feature. I bumped up the "thumbnail" threshold up to 384K, that should cover about any image, even really large ones. If they are bigger than 384K, the server will then do a thumbnail because that really is a big picture then :)
 
Reid, did you ever use the dual-strobe setup from the auto parts store? After reading your post (on V) I went and got one, and love it; it's very bright. The one I got has two strobes attached to bolts (sold for use as license-plate mounts) which make them easy to mount (will try to post a pic soon).

I also have an LED flasher taillight, and I feel pretty good riding at night with both of them. But I still try to avoid situations where I have to depend on drivers to actually see me.

The fine print on the box said "not legal for street use", but I can't imagine a police officer giving me a hard time about them.
 
Good ones
http://www.bike-recumbent.com/headlight.shtml
http://www.instructables.com/id/E3BGQT6Y7PEP286N6P/?ALLSTEPS

Maybe, if the main part or equivalent can be found
http://www.geocities.com/b1rdjx88/light.html
http://tinyurl.com/soubn
http://nordicgroup.us/s78/headlights.html

Allright but kinda clunky
http://www.rf.org/farmers/aa4hs/bikelight/
http://www.geocities.com/jimburnetto/bike_light.html
http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/homebrew.htm

Theese are too exposed, I'd break them
http://www.bikeclub.org/lightspa.htm
http://www.instructables.com/id/EIYIBCU1KYEP286P9I/
 
Here's one my son found. They have some really interesting products, like MR-16 lamp replacements. Reasonable prices too. My son bought some LED lights for his car. They shipped fast and the quality of the products seems pretty good.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm
 
MR16-W30 White LED bulb
http://superbrightleds.com/bi-pin.html

MR16 with 30 White LEDs, 12 Volt AC or DC operation. LEDs are recessed
inside of glass reflector, Beam Angle is 35 Degrees, Current draw 125ma @
12VDC, 12~16 VDC, 9.5~11.5 VAC, 31 lumen output. $ 19.95

3 bulbs is ~4.5w vs 60w w/halogen.


mr16-rgb.jpg
 
From the link above:
NOTE:
You may disappointed in the light output from LEDS if you a replacing halogen bulbs for general lighting.
In comparing the light output to halogen bulbs, the 12 White LED bulbs are comparable to about 7 Watts, 24 LED bulbs are comparable to about 15 Watts. The light output from our HO and LX bulbs are comparable to about 20 Watts of halogen.
The LED bulbs are for where you just need a little accent lighting or where power conservation is very important, such as battery powered applications.

Makes them sound probably OK for our application. So who's going to try them? :)
 
It is easy to miss seeing their note:


Screenshot of the 3W Luxeon unit




I am guessing that the 10 degree spread is the best suited;
the narrower beam will make the most of the light.

The others, including "30 degree" spread, are very likely too wide to be useful for at-speed driving.

_________
just found, am reading this tutorial now, fwiw:
http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightingAnswers/mr16/abstract.asp
 
From the cited page,
screenshot:



For myself, the single 20W narrow beam german GE bulb used at present,
is a lot more useful than the former 35W 35degree bulb that came stock in the Trailtech headlight housing I got from BatterySpace.

Wait: the bulb I have at present is -not- the B.S. 12degree/20W,
it's slightly different and it has no cover glass (and so, cannot last me for long)

I'll look it up-cos it's a good bulb, except for the cost and except for the lack of a cover glass.
 
Self-correction.

In a previous posting on page one, I reported using the BS 12degree 20w bulb.
I forgot--I have this one (german-made GE branded) in the housing lately, and it's giving the best results so far,

-but it lacks a cover glass.
-the reflector is very slightly faceted.
there's enough light spill to give short-range lighting,
as well as a good focused beam to aim a hundred or more feet down the road.

-Just went for an hour's ride to double check my memory:
this "7 degree" is practically ideal. Aimed down the road about fifty feet, it illuminates the entire roadway width adequately for 25mph riding,
and if I were to go that fast, I'd aim it a bit higher--it throws on down the road.

Again, its spill is adequate (ideal, really) to light up the area around the bike.

If this bulb only had a cover glass I would kudo it to all.
Its reflector is aluminized, not dichroic, so: no housing heating woes.
The rated 2900K color temp is at 12V. At 14-15V, it improves to be quite white enough.

I like a white light best.

By test, I my spotter says it shows the bike off from a great distance.

So, aside from its lack of a cover glass, and that it's pricey, this is my current favorite:

http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=31272
that photo is generic, not of the actual lamp

I have a couple of 12 degree 20 BS lamps on the way,
and will see if I can "like them" nearly so much.


Pardon this long report. Brevity is the sole :wink:
leading others toward missteps.
 
Are there any small lightweight 48V lights for bicycles, helmets, flashlights, RC stuff, space ships, etc. ? Want spot? / flood? on front, and red light on back.

Find 48V LED Bulbs at http://www.newark.com
4321076.jpg

Bulb Size: T-3 1/4
Lamp Base Type: Miniature Bayonet
Think these bulbs are mostly used for panel mount indicators?

Check out all the bicycle lights here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=86
 
vanilla ice said:
Wheres Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeid?
LPS ebike headlight.. better Lm/W than LED or HID eh?
Nice graphs, vanilla ice!

From the graphs and the specs I've read, LEDs are not terribly efficient so has anyone tried flourescent?

http://www.bulbamerica.com/Compact-Fluorescent-7w-MR16-Light-Bulb-3243-prod.htm?category_id=491

At 2700K, the color temperature seems too warm for contrast enhancement, but maybe that's just a human perception problem on my part. Output vs. power seems great but who knows about the beam pattern / width.

I may try them, nonetheless. (x4 in series for a 48V pack.)

-Cal
 
vanilla ice said:
Wheres Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeid?
Look at bottom of Reid's posts. See email address? Why don't you send him a note and ask how he doing? Bet ya he is zooming around Florida on his electric bicycle.

calinb said:
From the graphs and the specs I've read, LEDs are not terribly efficient so has anyone tried fluorescent?

http://www.bulbamerica.com/Compact-Fluorescent-7w-MR16-Light-Bulb-3243-prod.htm?category_id=491
Never seen fluorescent on bike, scooter, auto, truck, lights. Not sure why? Also I don't build lights. I buy. Rule in my life is - Don't build it. Buy it. Why am I building a electric bicycle?

I want 48V lights! Its a big world out there. All lights are not 12V.

Look at this light 12/48V LED. Its a bit big for a bicycle. Still want small lightweight 48V light.
700_LED3_web.jpg

dimensions_model_700_led.gif

Not sure if these specifications are correct? Copy from catalog on different web site.
SPECIFICATIONS:
MOUNTING: 5/16" Mounting Bolt
INPUT VOLTAGE: 12-48
MAX OPERATING CURRENT: 12 Volt 2 Amps. 48 Volt .5 Amps
LIGHT SOURCE: LED Board
LIGHT OUTPUT: 240 Lumens
LENS: Aspherical optics, acrylic inner and outer lenses
STANDARDS: UL® Recognized, Sealed J575, Shock & Vibration
 
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