Loaded Tesseract Carbon Single VESC 6355 10S4P

I run that very same Alien 6374 170KV on my single board with a 8S battery and 97mm Flywheels.
I also have a dual 6355 230KV build and I must say the single 6374 seems to pull just as well.
Any further builds I do will be with single 6374 motors as I find them more than adequate, even for my +-90KG.
I am about to order a new 6374 240KV to test against the 170KV, be interesting so see if a I notice a difference in torque as I am not so interested in top speed.
 
hm, if you have enough topspeed and want more torque, then I would say go lower and not higher KV :?

you probably wont get more max torque, since that basically depends on the size of the motor and the copper thats inside there - but youll get more torque per current at least with lower kv!
 
you probably meant to post that in the topspeed thread :p and yea, I actually ordered unidirectional carbon 3 days ago for the topspeed - Ill use that as the base layer and finish with a nice twill weave layer - double carbon layer, because I removed a lot of wood.
 
@ whitepony

"hm, if you have enough topspeed and want more torque, then I would say go lower and not higher KV :? "

I did not say that I wanted more torque. What I meant was that the 6374 170KV was really good with plenty of torque.
That is why I wish to test it against a 240KV motor - to see the torque difference and how noticeable, if at all, it is. (At speed well below maximum)
Basically I want to see which motor, for my riding style, is the better choice. Personally I am tipping on the 170KV - but we shall see. :?:
 
hehe, ok! to be honest, the max torque wont be affected, see here: http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/technic/t_020203.html

it might have an effect on your vesc heat issue (it might be even hotter now with the higher kv motor, since for a given torque, a lower kv motor will use less current up to the max torque where both motors are the same).
 
WeeChumlee said:
I run that very same Alien 6374 170KV on my single board with a 8S battery and 97mm Flywheels.
I also have a dual 6355 230KV build and I must say the single 6374 seems to pull just as well.
Any further builds I do will be with single 6374 motors as I find them more than adequate, even for my +-90KG.
I am about to order a new 6374 240KV to test against the 170KV, be interesting so see if a I notice a difference in torque as I am not so interested in top speed.
Awesome, thanks!
 
WeeChumlee said:
I did not say that I wanted more torque. What I meant was that the 6374 170KV was really good with plenty of torque.
That is why I wish to test it against a 240KV motor - to see the torque difference and how noticeable, if at all, it is. (At speed well below maximum)
Basically I want to see which motor, for my riding style, is the better choice. Personally I am tipping on the 170KV - but we shall see. :?:

I just "downgraded" from the 192kv to the 149kv SK3 6374. I'm much happier with the startup torque of the 149kv. I'll bet you prefer the lower kv motor, too.


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WeeChumlee said:
I run that very same Alien 6374 170KV on my single board with a 8S battery and 97mm Flywheels.
I also have a dual 6355 230KV build and I must say the single 6374 seems to pull just as well.
Any further builds I do will be with single 6374 motors as I find them more than adequate, even for my +-90KG.
I am about to order a new 6374 240KV to test against the 170KV, be interesting so see if a I notice a difference in torque as I am not so interested in top speed.

Well looking forward to seeing this compsrison in Real Life now.
whitepony's link indicates same torque but at lower speed for lower KV motor .

Hope you compare with your exact same setup !,..maybe climbing a hill ??
 
Looking for cheap spot welders to build my 18650 battery pack. Which do you think is a better choice between these two options below, and why?

http://www.joyfay.com/micro-computer-pulse-spot-welder-battery-charger-800-a-0-1-1-0-mm-36-v.html?gclid=CI3FlZrx-swCFQIOaQodQzMN6w

http://www.joyfay.com/2-in-1-spot-welder-soldering-welding-machine-709a-51547-51547.html

Would I also need a soldering iron or would one of these be enough?

Edit: Obviously, the more expensive one comes with some extra features such as the handheld welder, but I'm curious if the cheaper one is enough for my needs.

Also Whitepony, I saw that in addition to nickel strips you used braided copper wire in your pack. Do you think that is necessary if I'm only running one outrunner?
 
cant answer you the spot welder question, Im using a very archaic selfmade version myself. youll never get around a good soldering iron overall - you just need that for building a board. :p

I reinforced the batteries serial connections so that I could make use of its potential. my LG HG2 10S4P can deliver 80A continuous, so I wanted to build the battery properly to allow it to run that current without issues. i think the nickel strips are specified as 15A continuous, so always think about that on serial connections. if you have only one nickel strip that has to carry the current, it almost certainly wont be enough. on my serial connections with 4 nickel strips I didnt use reinforcements, because 4x15 = 60A, which was good enough for me. the bigger motors like 6374 SK3s are usually specified to carry up to 80A!
 
I like your selfmade spot welder! If I had tools at my disposal I would attempt to make one myself. Pretty neat stuff.

I definitely understand wanting to use all of the packs potential. With the nickel strips can you just spot weld them directly on top of each other? Do you have plans for another pack, and any design changes you plan to make or would like to see eventually?
 
Ballistrophobia said:
I definitely understand wanting to use all of the packs potential. With the nickel strips can you just spot weld them directly on top of each other? Do you have plans for another pack, and any design changes you plan to make or would like to see eventually?

yea, you can just weld several layers!

there have been iterations of my battery, some pushed by ES members who complained about several things, some motivated by randyc1:

* added copper wire for high current serial connections
* added protection rings to plus poles
* hot glued cells additionally to GFK reinforced tape

my latest individual 1S4P packs for the 10S4P vanguard battery are also connected by 10AWG wires instead of nickel strips to allow more flexible layouts.
 
whitepony said:
my latest individual 1S4P packs for the 10S4P vanguard battery are also connected by 10AWG wires instead of nickel strips to allow more flexible layouts.
So the vanguard battery is only 10AWG wires, no nickel strips at all?

Just saw your newest thread, the vanguard, and it looks fantastic as well! The composite enclosures turned out very sharp. I did the composite layup for my universities SAE BAJA vehicle. Lots of fun!
 
BallistrophobiaSo the vanguard battery is only 10AWG wires said:
nono, it looks like this:

vanguard_41.jpg


still all 4cell parallel packs connected by nickel strips - and then 2 parallel packs in series by 4 nickel strips. the rest is connected by dual 5mm solder wick and the bridge between front and rear vanguard battery is done by 10AWG wire -> 5.5mm bullet connector -> inlaid 10AWG wire in the board!
 
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