El_Topo said:
2old said:
FME (and others that I ride with), switch the pain from knees to the neck area and you'll see why some individuals prefer a more upright stance.
Please excuse my question but what does the acronym "FME" stand for in this case (google didn't help)?
formula101 said:
...a bike fit can save you a lot of time (and pain and frustration), assuming you work with a highly qualified fitter.
The fitter can assess your level of flexibility, and sometimes can find out how much power. you can generate based upon riding position. I highly recommend it. You can save the data and use it in the future. I know alot of people are turned off by the price, but the $150 to $300 asking price can be well worth it long term.
...
A lot of these fine points of bike fit are totally lost these days as LBS's become less popular as consumers increasingly turn to online shopping.
This is the way I see it:
A bike fit will cost me not a even a tenth of the (hypothetical) bike discussed in this topic but I get a (supposedly) perfect fit for all bikes I own now
and future bikes assuming I don't grow anymore (that is highly unlikely given my age) or become more restricted in my riding position due to knee, neck or anything else that might break (knock on wood!).
Is there some literature or a good website that covers the difference aspects of bike fitting in more detail you can recommend?
Yeah, here's a quick read from bicycling.com:
https://www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a20036352/bike-fit-0/
And here's a free resource for calculating bike fit on your own. It would be ideal to have someone else take measurements.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
But I simply meant that you can transfer your 'ideal' measurements for crank length, tt, stem length, bar width, standover, etc to the same category of bicycle: an additional bike or new bike. For example, if you get fitted for a mountain bike, you can use the numbers for a second mtb or a new mtb later.
Your ideal fit now may not be 'ideal' anymore in 10 years for example, if your level of flexibility changes, if you've had an injury, if you gain or lose weight etc. I know that when I lose weight, it's alot easier to ride in the drops, a lower rise stem becomes possible (optimal), and therefore my range of (comfortable) riding positions increases.
Depending on your choice of fitter, you may not get the 'perfect' bike fit first time around. A fitter may have a very specific idea in mind of what your 'correct' saddle height may be but your body may tell you different. The fitter may have a formula for what your correct reach should be but your body may tell you different. There's no doubt that additional tweaking is likely going to be required. These types of issues are more common with 'old school' fitters who use 'rules of thumb' for a fitting, such as the plum bob method for setting saddle height for example.
Ideally, you will find a fitter who ALSO uses a scientific method to gauge your optimal position for power output (power meter and video assessment of correct ride position). You will be able to see video of how changes to your bike fit help you in terms of power output. Your saddle width, choice of cranks, length of pedal spindle, stem length and rise, bar width and of course frame size, can be changed to get you set up properly.
Below are a few examples of fitings. The fitters do their best to get the rider's knees aligned directly above the pedals for example, and they have power meters setup to gauge the level of efficiency as changes are made.
I went through a body geometry fitting, and the session took nearly three hours. It was a workout! But I knew just about immediately that the bike I test rode was for me and the fitting was great for setting up my clipless pedals and for getting the stem length and height correct. I did audition a large number of saddles afterwards as well, something some bike shops allow for free with a bike purchase. I was offered a second full fitting at nominal cost if I purchased the correct sized stem through the shop.
Interestingly, mtb fits are relatively uncommon. I think it's because the more upright riding position is generally more comfortable to begin with, but I still think fittings can be beneficial here too.
I would start by talking to members of your local bike clubs, road or mtb depending on your needs and ask for the best fitter in your area. Talk with that fitter to see what features they offer, if additional fittings are possible at reduced cost, etc. Ask for referrals from previous clients.
Ideally, your fitting will consist of the following:
1. an assessment of flexibility to help determine ride position.
2. a power meter to assess your efficiency in different riding positions with each change in setup
3. a video analysis of your ride position showing you that pedal position, saddle height, stem and top tube length, put you in the correct position for the most comfortable and efficient ride.
4. an ongoing dialogue about what is and is not comfortable as changes are made. DO NOT allow any fitter to tell you that you will become more comfortable over time. YOU tell the fitter what is and is not comfortable at the time of fitting.
There are still some really cool bike shops around. It's very hit and miss. Some have offered to teach me how to ride a bicycle properly since they could tell I was buying my first road bike. Others are so proud of their mechanics they invite me to stick around and ask questions during the bike build. Look for those quality shops and support them.
I don't know why the youtube links aren't embedding but here they are.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2LnYBMDzBQ[/youtube]
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-caqOQo53g[/youtube]
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hteUPJjL32o[/youtube]
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBLMidr4dps[/youtube]
