Modded Dropouts Or Naw?

[500w_Of_Power]

Should be a near interference fit. Best case is too tight to fit without a few light passes with a file to get it to go on. Throw all of your other cautions out the window if your torque arms aren't tight. I have a less than ideal fit on one side with my Grin torque arms so I jam a small piece of straight razor blade in between the axle and torque arm as a shim which has worked well.

It is a nice tight fit, no wiggle room. I took it for its first ride (about 25 miles) And nothing came loose, cracked, or broke. I put accelerated hard, and it seems fine! The only thing was the motor vibrated when it hit about 25mph, and when it hit maximum speed (30-35mph) it stopped. Could be a loose magnate, I tightened the axel nut some more, but have not ridden it to see if it fixed it.

 

[glennb]

Could I bolt it directly to the frame and drill a hole there?

If you mean drilling into a tubular section of chainstay, there’s a high risk the tube will eventually crack as a result of it.

 

[amberwolf]

I eventually cracked my DayGlo Avenger' aluminum frame's stays because of that--I'd drilled poprivet holes in to secure plates for my cargo pod (along with clamps around the tubes thru slits in the plates). Took a fair while to happen, but it did.

 

[500w_Of_Power]

If you mean drilling into a tubular section of chainstay, there’s a high risk the tube will eventually crack as a result of it.

Ok, I definitely won't. I tightened the crap out of my torque arm, it is NOT moving.

 

[glennb]

All good.

You might’ve been ok doing it. It’s mostly right chainstays that break, due to the cyclical loading from pedalling. It’s still inadvisable though. I imagine amberwolf didn’t have any realistic alternative. And even with only small pop rivet holes and reinforcing clamps his cracked, so there’s a fair chance yours would too.

Anyway, your torque resisting setup ought to be fine, because you’re obviously going to check it periodically and keep a close eye on it for the first few rides.

 

[500w_Of_Power]

All good.

You might’ve been ok doing it. It’s mostly right chainstays that break, due to the cyclical loading from pedalling. It’s still inadvisable though. I imagine amberwolf didn’t have any realistic alternative. And even with only small pop rivet holes and reinforcing clamps his cracked, so there’s a fair chance yours would too.

Anyway, your torque resisting setup ought to be fine, because you’re obviously going to check it periodically and keep a close eye on it for the first few rides.

Oh yes, definitely. I took it for a ride and it was amazing, the power was unreal compared to my first 500w build.

 

[glennb]

That’s good. You won’t be changing your username to “1000W” any time soon then.

 

[500w_Of_Power]

All good.

You might’ve been ok doing it. It’s mostly right chainstays that break, due to the cyclical loading from pedalling. It’s still inadvisable though. I imagine amberwolf didn’t have any realistic alternative. And even with only small pop rivet holes and reinforcing clamps his cracked, so there’s a fair chance yours would too.

Anyway, your torque resisting setup ought to be fine, because you’re obviously going to check it periodically and keep a close eye on it for the first few rides.

Nay, staying original. Thank you for the information and advice. Without it, there would be no 1500w build. My battery is arriving Friday, to my horror they sent one with a defective BMS. Thank you again SO MUCH for all the info, words can't describe how grateful I am.

 

[E-HP]

Nay, staying original. Thank you for the information and advice. Without it, there would be no 1500w build. My battery is arriving Friday, to my horror they sent one with a defective BMS. Thank you again SO MUCH for all the info, words can't describe how grateful I am.

Hey it came out looking great! I realize that that may be your normal seat height, but at some point you may be able to consider a decent suspension seatpost as a future upgrade. Also, be careful on the tire that came with the kit. Those things are always sketchy. The rims are usually not very wide, but I put a 26x2.4 on that provided a little more cushion and better traction.

Have fun, but stay safe!

 

[500w_Of_Power]

I dropped the seat all the way, I'm 6'3 so I rarely sit down. Thanks!

 

[glennb]

Yeah, the whole build does look good. Torque arm’s very neat. Well done.

 

[Cryingmadman]

Hi, I'm building a 1500w e-bike on 48v and the dropouts are aluminum, they just barely go over the axle. I was thinking of machining some 1/4in 304 stainless steel from SendCutSend to make extended dropouts, then adding a torque arm. I would bolt them on, and use JB Weld Steel epoxy for added strength. You can see my cardboard and paper mock-ups. Is this a good idea, or should I look for a steel frame? This frame is a DimondBack Overdrive 27.5 large frame: https://www.costco.com/diamondback-overdrive-27.5"-bike.product.100744715.html

Hi,
Would you mind letting me know what they charged you to cut and deliver those dropouts?

Did you send them digital files or patterns?

Great work young man!

Thanks in advance

Cryingmadman

 

[500w_Of_Power]

Hi,
Would you mind letting me know what they charged you to cut and deliver those dropouts?

Did you send them digital files or patterns?

Great work young man!

Thanks in advance

Cryingmadman

Sure dude! I used 304-grade stainless steel, at 3/8 in thick. SendCutSend charged roughly $5 a part, and $12 shipping. I sent it to them using a DXF file.