Modern boardtrack-inspired cruiser build

what i did was retrofit a cycle luminator into a 5.75" motorcycle single round headlamp. For those of you who dont know, the cycle luminator is a 1000 lumen led light that works with voltages up to 100v. It is made by grin cyclery and plugs directly into the cycle analyst v3.

I wanted a very bright light, but I also wanted to retain a vintage, boardtrack inspired look.

I considered an hid but decided against it because of heat and power consumption. Plus the cycle luminator plugs directly into my cycle analyst.

I even picked up a splitter cord and extension cable to run an electrolight tail light, which grin cyclery also sells. No soldering, no splicing....just some custom fabbing on the front headlamp.



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Took a pic last night on a quick ride. Headlight and tail is super bright. I can easily adjust the beam by tilting the headlamp up or down on the go. Im very happy with how it turned out
 
It's a beauty. If I might offer a suggestion, the only thing that would make it look better is a custom case for the mid frame battery versus the bag. Just my opinion.
 
Hi. Where can I buy this frame from. Love this bike so much I'm building one. Think I'll build. Tan leather battery pouch. If you help me out I can sort one for you too. I used to work with leather so no probs.
Thanks
 
Hi. Where can I buy this frame from. Love this bike so much I'm building one. Think I'll build. Tan leather battery pouch. If you help me out I can sort one for you too. I used to work with leather so no probs.
Thanks
 
bigsi said:
Hi. Where can I buy this frame from. Love this bike so much I'm building one. Think I'll build. Tan leather battery pouch. If you help me out I can sort one for you too. I used to work with leather so no probs.
Thanks

Bikebuyers.com [THUMBS UP SIGN]

I agree that a steel battery case would be pretty killer, but the battery is a triangle....if i enclosed the whole frame triangle it might look odd...
 
While I'm not building a boardtracker, I really like your handlebars and while I've found lots of short straight bars I can't find any with the gentle curve toward the ends like yours. Where did you manage to source yours.
Regard, Bob
 
Last question I promise. I've got a standard MTB seat post. I bought the funky lay back seat post from Sportsman flyer and a seatpost shim from ebay so the lay back can now fit my bike, but I have no idea how to mount a seat t0 the other end unless i weld a mount assembly to the layback post. How did you do it.

Update: I found a bunch of old seat mounting hardware I think will do the trick.
 
I used the standard seat hardware that came w my brooks saddle. it clamped around the seatpost nice and tight
 
Been lurking on ES for a while but thought my first post should be to tell you that your bike has really got me going in a different direction now with my first electric build. It is absolutely beautiful and better than anything I could dream up. I've always loved the boardtrack look and you've really nailed it.

I wonder if a similar look could be had using a stretch frame bike? I know it was built as primarily an electric propelled bike, but how difficult would your bike be to pedal in a pinch?

Anyway - fantastic work!
 
pedaling really bites on this thing. fortunately i used a quick release seatpost clamp so i can adjust the saddle height if i do have to pedal it, which is pretty much never. i like boardtrack motorcycles, but they werent built for pedaling. get low and twist the throttle :mrgreen:
 
true. When one sees an average height rider straddling some of these and with bent knees, you know pedalling is going to be like riding a kids tricycle. Seems like a long seatpost would suffice if the seat mounted on a seatpost. Some of the more accurate reproductions have a wide leather seat bolted down low, making it hard to use it as a true pedal bike other than maybe to get across the paddock or street.

How comfortable is the riding position for long rides (all powered)? Does your back start hurting, do your hands and forearms start to tighten up? How is the butt from the rear wheel? What about overall vibration and frame dampening in general?
 
my commute has gotten bumpier with all the frost heaves and cold cold weather. havent ridden the bike since december i think. on smooth roads and short to medium distance rides i never get uncomfortable. I do however get little stiff after a 45 minute ride on bumpier roads. ive thought about buying a sportsman leather seat with brackets connecting it to the rear fork, but im building a fatbike and have been sidetracked
 
danjpendleton said:
my commute has gotten bumpier with all the frost heaves and cold cold weather. havent ridden the bike since december i think. on smooth roads and short to medium distance rides i never get uncomfortable. I do however get little stiff after a 45 minute ride on bumpier roads. ive thought about buying a sportsman leather seat with brackets connecting it to the rear fork, but im building a fatbike and have been sidetracked


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No Mess, No fuss :D
 
Cant drop the seat as low with those thudbusters, so it kind of takes away from the boardtrack look of the bike in my opinion. From what i hear they work pretty well though
 
This is pretty close to exactly what I want to build.

The wheels - are those 24in to fit on the 26in frame? choppersus.com has both 24 and 26. I'm guessing the 26x3 wouldn't fit in the frame, so they must be 24?
 
I managed to just fit 24x3 in mine. But I had to put a length of allthread across the rear dropouts and lock them, then insert a car jack inside the chainstays and move them out ~20mm. Used a piece of wood on the jack to soften the load points.

Steel frame. Important.

When you put a 3 inch tyre on a 24 inch rim you make the effective diameter much bigger. Back to ~26 inch effectively.
 
I read through several times - he doesn't mention how he did the rear disc brake. Is it brazed on? Is it an adapter?

I love this bike - I'd like to find a frame that has both a stretch cruiser look that's disc ready.

Also, I'd like to find a e-kit supplier that provides 24in rims already laced. I really don't want to build my own wheels.

And I presume he had to spread the rear dropouts, since it began life as a single speed.

I'm trying to decide between his:

Micargi Rover GT
http://www.bikebuyers.com/rover-gt-photos.htm

and the disc-ready aluminum:

Fito Modena GT
http://www.bikebuyers.com/fito-modena-gt-alloy-7sp-men.htm
 
I think kinaye motorsports is doing 24". Give Barent a message http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=66184

I've been doing mine in 24 inch. https://instagram.com/p/02CiOBnFRV/?taken-by=ballaratebikes
 
Samd said:
I managed to just fit 24x3 in mine. But I had to put a length of allthread across the rear dropouts and lock them, then insert a car jack inside the chainstays and move them out ~20mm. Used a piece of wood on the jack to soften the load points.

Steel frame. Important.

When you put a 3 inch tyre on a 24 inch rim you make the effective diameter much bigger. Back to ~26 inch effectively.


Hahaha did exactly the same thing on the Ruff Frame...steel makes life easy sometimes!
 
Hurry up and finish your whip Sean! We need to cruise before winter ;)
 
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