How many watts is that monster? Makes my 150 watt iron look like a toy.
Oh no! Someone has got to figure out the installed bms.
The ENEPAQ tiny bms150A/750A is only 95x65x9 mm. would just fit between the plastic side pieces 5 mm of depth there plus the lid has at least 5 more mm of space. A bit of trimming on the plastic would get you more room for the Bms Of course it is the price of 3 or 4 100A BT bmses. Glad I bought mine years ago before the name change. It has been waiting for a project.
Nathan Seidle of Sparkfun has some code for the bq76940 on Github:
The metal blades where the battery connects to the robot is what's holding it in. I used a pry bar to pry them down through the slots and then worked it slowly out pry on the corners. I ruined the blades though.
In case anyone with these packs, or anyone else rewrapping batteries wants to know, the plastic washers on the positive end can be 3d printed.
I live 3 miles from that place and just got 3 Molicel packs myself
Well, I got some courage, removed the 100a fuse and cut the BMS board at both ends right before the positive and negative terminals with a Dremel that had a cutting wheel attached. I was going to crap myself the whole time doing it. I then trimmed off the balance terminals. I am alive and no sparks too. lol. BTW, I am no way shape or form recommending anyone to do this for the record, im just saying that what I did. My cells were all right around 3.5v's. I rigged up a temporary BMS to monitor, balance and charge the cells. So far , so good.
endless-sphere.com
No easy way that I found. I made a mess trying different ways. Not recommending this, but fastest way was when I used a small circular saw with about 1/8in of the blade exposed. If you go this route you will have to start out real small, like 1/16 exposed, try it, and see if it just barely clears through the shell, in not, keep adding just the slight bit more till it does. Then zip away around the perimeter
I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel to slice right before the end terminals.Ended up leaving it connected for a good couple minutes, should have been adequate for any delay or timer
nope, nothing seemed to change as far as I could tell
What I didnt think to check is as to whether the pins are atually providing 3v/5v with a multimeter, shouldve been the first thing I tried
Also why charge the cells up to specifically 53v? curious as to whether there is any specific thing referencing 53v/~3.7v per cell (havent read the posted ti datasheet/manual yet) or if its just a hunch
best method I found is to break the bms in such a way so you can get to this point
View attachment 352477
which then provides enough clearance for wire snips to reach the 6 guage and you can cut the remaining parts of the bms off
This is one of my questions about the wire bonds and terminal ends. I know a Molicel 14s5p setup is capable of a good 200amps or more. However, can this pack with the BMS replaced withstand that?
Im guessing that the cell fuses pop at 20 or 25 amps as the main fuse is rated for a hundred amps, 100/5p = 20 would be being drawn from each cell at the peak, more likely that its 25 or maybe even 30 so the margins arent as slim.
There might be a chance that someone at Batteryhookup has a lead on those exoskeleton parts, I have called them before and they seem friendly and helpful.
