mon-goose to MON-STER

Rix said:
Ken,
Been following your BMX build on FB, but why not here?
Click to expand...
Check my signature
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=62190
I got a fix the monster. It kinda broke me just 1 thing after the other not working. I got a fix it. It SHOULD work if I sort out the halls. I have 7 spare. I'm busy with tafe doing a test or prac every other day and work Saturday Had to fix the car uin Sunday to so I've got frock all spare time/ energy.
Bmx is coming along slowly.
 
Ken, here is the Fighter bashing through the desert at high speed. Towards the beginning you can see how important suspension set ups is. I was moving over the woops @ 35+MPH and even with stability view enhanced, it was harsh in places.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1mVYResxnY
 
Rix said:
Ken, here is the Fighter bashing through the pul UNBert at high speed. Towards the beginning you can see how important suspension set ups is. I was moving over the woops @ 35+MPH and even with stability view enhanced, it was harsh in places.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1mVYResxnY
Click to expand...
Thank man I'll check it for sure.
Hey can you help me with a bmx chain issue? I've seen on MC swing arms they have a nylon plate sometimes, for the chain. Presably on the top there is power going through the chain while its pulling against the nylon. If I make a guide the pushes the chain down 5mm on the drive side do you think this will effect things much, will it last?
I might replace the halls again and see if I can fix the monster today. I'll be spewing if I've blown the windings or something seeing as I have that new $200 axle.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Rix said:
Ken, here is the Fighter bashing through the pul UNBert at high speed. Towards the beginning you can see how important suspension set ups is. I was moving over the woops @ 35+MPH and even with stability view enhanced, it was harsh in places.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1mVYResxnY
Click to expand...
Thank man I'll check it for sure.
Hey can you help me with a bmx chain issue? I've seen on MC swing arms they have a nylon plate sometimes, for the chain. Presably on the top there is power going through the chain while its pulling against the nylon. If I make a guide the pushes the chain down 5mm on the drive side do you think this will effect things much, will it last?
I might replace the halls again and see if I can fix the monster today. I'll be spewing if I've blown the windings or something seeing as I have that new $200 axle.
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If you are going to push on the chain to take out tension, you need to do on the trailing side of the counter shaft sprocket. This is why derailers are always on the bottom. It would be the same with a nylon guide pushing to take slack out. If you push down on the top chain, as it travels between the sprocket on the wheel, and the countershaft sprocket on the motor, you will have nothing but problems quickly.
 
im getting 5v on all hall signal lines no matter the magnet polarity or even with the stator removed from the wheel.

ive only just replaced them and i was fairly sure i didnt over heat them. any thoughts guys? im so sick of running into problems with bikes and stuff in general. bikes, cars, computers, they are all giving me the shits at the moment. just tryed installing ubuntu on my netbook so i could mod the code on my bmx arduino and nothing would work. seriously wasted about 20hrs of my life at least. at least i have a ubuntu usb its a pretty good OS, ill probably use it in future for programing. this arduino isnt legit, its a hobby king copy. so im blaming that no tx rx conectivity at all.

anyway
help with the halls would be apriciated before i go ripping them out and re doing the wiring again. the controller seems totally fine. i should test the controler with a known good wheel and test the wheel with a know good controller. maby in the next few days.

the weather is coming good down in Australia so im keen to get out and do some stunts :p
 
Feel for you there. But found it amusing that even after being sick of fixing stuff you are just keen to go do "stunts" which are most the reason why you need to fix things.

best of luck.

I'm sick of spaghetti. Don't mind it charging, but hate having it all over the bike when I ride...
 
coming along well..
Hey, I noticed your 3525 kept spinning for ages after you let go of the throttle. My 4065 drags to a stop really quickly. Why do I have so much drag? bearings?

Been thinking weather a 3525 would fit my 4065 wheel case... if it has a better wound for going slow...
 
Thanks guys. BTW I'm not using a thermostat, just the ntc sensor.

Bozi, it kept spinning for about 10 seconds. Getting a 3525 would be difficult, no one stocks them.
Have you considered anything else like a 1.8:1 phase amp:battery amp limit on your controller? Or fans in the motor?
 
pendragon8000 said:
Thanks guys. BTW I'm not using a thermostat, just the ntc sensor.

Bozi, it kept spinning for about 10 seconds. Getting a 3525 would be difficult, no one stocks them.
Have you considered anything else like a 1.8:1 phase amp:battery amp limit on your controller? Or fans in the motor?
Click to expand...

Electric Rider has 3525s in stock here in the US, they are called the "Brute". If that helps.
 
Nice work Ken. Ah, a crook temp sensor - what a red herring!
It's always worth unplugging the CA when doing diagnostics, especially the V3 with the way it controls everything. I've been caught out a few time before scratching my head only to find it was the CA stepping in.

Thanks for the shout out! :)
The bike room is coming along nicely. I like your charger too set up too, that's neat.

John, the H4065 and H2535 are very similar in winds with only around 5km/hr top speed difference between them. Any slight lower speed differences in the H35 would be offset by the increased amount of copper in the H40, and then some. In short moving from a H4065 to a H3525 would be a backwards move. Old bearings can cause more drag but so do bigger magnets and obviously things like disc brakes rubbing, old freewheels etc. I wouldn't worry about how quickly it spins to a spot unless it abruptly stops.
 
Hyena said:
Nice work Ken. Ah, a crook temp sensor - what a red herring!
It's always worth unplugging the CA when doing diagnostics, especially the V3 with the way it controls everything. I've been caught out a few time before scratching my head only to find it was the CA stepping in.
.
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Very valid point, but, this was the thermostat on the hall positive wire. I'm sure the thermostat itself was OK, but the wires on it were tottaly shagged. The only wires I didn't replace initially FML. Oh well, all good now. Good lesson in fault finding I guess.
 
Was it one of mine ? If so I'll send you another one under warranty :p
I take it this was from the crash, or was it pulled in the process of replacing the axle ? You'd need to give them an almighty tugging to break the wires usually.
 
Hyena said:
Was it one of mine ? If so I'll send you another one under warranty :p
I take it this was from the crash, or was it pulled in the process of replacing the axle ? You'd need to give them an almighty tugging to break the wires usually.
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Yeah it was one you sent me. I guess it would be worth replacing if you can be bothered sending anothery.

How it happened:
I know something shorted in the axle channel. Smoke came out. I'm guessing a phase wire found a path through to the negative hall or something. Could have been weakened already with vibration and heat.
 
Hyena said:
John, the H4065 and H2535 are very similar in winds with only around 5km/hr top speed difference between them. Any slight lower speed differences in the H35 would be offset by the increased amount of copper in the H40, and then some. In short moving from a H4065 to a H3525 would be a backwards move. Old bearings can cause more drag but so do bigger magnets and obviously things like disc brakes rubbing, old freewheels etc. I wouldn't worry about how quickly it spins to a spot unless it abruptly stops.
Click to expand...

sorry to hijack a bit.

I was suspecting the size would still be better, however mine does come to stop in a circle if you turned it by hand. This increased going to a 19" rim and yeah its great for steep mountains where you go up and down because it brakes alone but long flats and pedalling are ridiculously inefficient.

New free wheel, new bearings, no brake sound so must still be how this is all squished together or as you say big ass magnets.

the dd on my xyz motor on my old el shito bike is amazing to pedal compared to this
 
alright, i bolted on the torque arms and tidyed up the wires.

I just took the beast out for a spin and wow i really forgot how crazy this thing is. its kinda scary. im going to attempt to carry my charger in back pack to tafe tomorow so i can power it there charge at lunch and power back. might go for a little spin during the day.

shouldnt be anny worries other than the mass of the backpack with all my stuff in it is quite heavy. i guess i rode 100km like that with the Glow Worm guys, so it is do-able.

ill see if i can get a video of the kids checking out my bike in the morning :)
 
pendragon8000 said:
I just took the beast out for a spin and wow i really forgot how crazy this thing is. its kinda scary
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It's funny how quickly you get used to the power and then when you've had a long break from riding and get back on you're like "holy shit!"
I remember when I was crook I didnt ride for 6 months and then when I got back on I was like "damn this is too fast, I'll not going to go near full throttle" then within a few days I was back to mashing it straight off the line. You can see why noobs who've never ridden an ebike before come back white knuckled :lol:
 
Hyena said:
pendragon8000 said:
I just took the beast out for a spin and wow i really forgot how crazy this thing is. its kinda scary
Click to expand...
It's funny how quickly you get used to the power and then when you've had a long break from riding and get back on you're like "holy shit!"
I remember when I was crook I didnt ride for 6 months and then when I got back on I was like "damn this is too fast, I'll not going to go near full throttle" then within a few days I was back to mashing it straight off the line. You can see why noobs who've never ridden an ebike before come back white knuckled :lol:
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LOL
Yeah definitely.

I had an issue on the wayto ttafe... Seems like a dodged hall wire. Power is intermittent
I guess I'll open up the motor and replace the hall wires again.
Should be OK to get home. Might take the back streets . its charging now , on display for everyone . I watched one guy did a triple take look back. Pretty funny. :D

EDIT:
its the thermistor 10k ntc wire going to the ca v3 . I turned off thermal roll back and it was all good. Still need to fix it asap.
 
eek im with you now, motor started growling at me after discovering the ca was causing the power cuts over big humps.
without it I could thump the bike but it seems that ca may have been cutting out at voltage spikes, without it on those spikes may have blown the hall sensors?
now my motor wont even turn....

looks like ill be learning a hell of a lot about replacing hall sensors....

any tips?

bout to follow the ebikes.ca trouble shoot guide......... getting devoed and want a second off road bike for days like this, to work on one while I have one to ride.
 
Ah shit.
Yeah.
Replace the hall wires entirely.
Heat sink the hall sensor body or legs while you solder. Be quick so you don't add excess heat.
Solder you wires then solder wires to the hall sensors.
Use epoxy to glue the halls in . and hold the wires down over the windings. You may want to press the wires down while it dries because there is zero space in there.
Get halls from digi key.
I'll find the product number and post it here.
http://www.digikey.com.au/product-search/en?KeyWords=480-1999-ND&WT.z_header=search_go
Digi-Key Part Number 480-1999-ND
The shipping is steep so you may want yo order some other bits like wire sold tools heatshrink etc.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Ah shit.
Yeah.
Replace the hall wires entirely.
Heat sink the hall sensor body or legs while you solder. Be quick so you don't add excess heat.
Solder you wires then solder wires to the hall sensors.
Use epoxy to glue the halls in . and hold the wires down over the windings. You may want to press the wires down while it dries because there is zero space in there.
Get halls from digi key.
I'll find the product number and post it here.
http://www.digikey.com.au/product-search/en?KeyWords=480-1999-ND&WT.z_header=search_go
Digi-Key Part Number 480-1999-ND
The shipping is steep so you may want yo order some other bits like wire sold tools heatshrink etc.
Click to expand...
thanks
these at jaycar no good?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZD1902
any tutorials? heat sinking body / legs?

temps on your link say max of 150 - which in a vented motor Im wondering may be another cause it failed.... I wonder if different parts of the motor not where the temp sensor is are actually much hotter for bursts ....

what are the main causes of failing wires apart from your axle braking and twist ripping stuff up?

cheers
 
stress of heat and vibration i guess is a cause of the thin wires breaking. they are very thin. you should be able to replace them with slightly thicker wires that will last allot longer. its up to you. they seem to give up in the axle channel. tacking the side plate off and on will wear them.

the thermistor is usally mounted in the stator near the halls i think. i mounted mine under the windings.

so heat sinking the body, you could use pliers and cold the sensor gently so the heat gets drawn out as it goes in, or use needle nose pliers to hold the leg close to the sensor body and solder the leg so most of the heat wont get to the sensor. i used some ratcheting scisor plier things from jaycar. they are pretty handy. you could probably use aligator clips to i guess.

and yeah the halls from jaycar wont work, i tried that already.
 
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