motor upgrade

myzter

1 kW
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
411
Location
Van, B.C.
Im looking to upgrade my DC brushed electric motor.
- Currently Im running a 24V 350 watt 2600 RPM (Currie Technologies)
- while also gearing down 2T from 11T @ 55T ///to : 9T @ 55T

I want to gear down like this to keep watts draw below 250 watts, while still having good torque at low speeds
- tires are 200mm X 50mm //

the motors Im looking at are:

36 Volt 750 Watt : $113
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/36v-750w-motor-11tooth-currie.html

24 Volt 900 Watt - 2600 RPM : $124
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-electric-motor-11-tooth-chain-sprocket.html

600W Motor - 36 Volts - 2600 RPM : $90
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-600W-Motor-36-Volts-Style-XYD-13A-/330390699759

My controller is only rated 24V @ 30 A / Rated Motor 350 - 750 Watts
which fits my 350 motor great..

Except, I have 2 small capacity booster packs on my ride.
- 4s1p A123, and a 10 volt - 350 F capacitor bank
Setup on 2x SPDT switches / inline with the controller output. (direct to motor connection)

I only use the boosters at times for very short bursts .. 2-5 seconds to get up to speed..
My watt meter is connected directly before the motor, and shows I pull upwards of 1100 watts (never reaching over 38 amps)

---
so.. here it is..
I want to keep my top speed the same or higher as my 350 watt 24V motor with 11T @ 55T setup
- overvolted to 36V

BUT also geared down to 9T (motor) @ 55T (wheel)


I could describe more and more, does anyone get this ???
 
Major problem with your plan: electric use more power at low RPM than they do at high. So you put a bigger motor on there, and gear it down.... well, you're gonna have a massive top speed, and massive amp draw for a very long time.

This would seem to be the opposite of what you want.

Also, those scooter motors don't have transmissions like your currie bike has. You'll need a gear reduction unit with those.

If you want a more efficient setup, you will need to ditch those brushless motors and get a DD or geared hub.
 
dont go with monster scoter parts.... there riping you off! :evil:
tnc scooters sells the same motors for much cheaper!
also do not go hub motor on this one they way a ton!
cheers,
jacob R
 
neptronix: dropping the motor sprocket teeth from 11T down to 9T is gearing down or gearing up ???
- anyways that is my plan... Less amp draw while accelerating, and cruising at 24 volts motor.jpg No hub motor here guys..
The price is not a concern... having the right motor for the job is my concern.

Why should I choose the higher voltage rated motor .. if:
I want the least amps draw when accelerating upto 24 volts, and Im overvolting to 36v+ for the top speed...

24 Volt 900 Watt - 2600 RPM / 34 amps
600W Motor - 36 Volts - 2600 RPM / 36 amps

- The project goal is to have a top speed similair to an electric wheelchair under the 24V controller/motor, using a 9T - 55T geared drive / with very low amps draw - sub 250 watts
- I should have copious amounts of torque... right ?? for a 40 lbs vehicle and 140 lbs rider

Add a booster pack or three (12v -19V - 26V) and now speed is possible
- more efficient acceleration, as most of the juice is directly from the booster packs and not passing through an 95% efficient controller.
 
900 watt 24 volt 11 tooth motor, Two 24 volt 9ah batteries wired together for 24 volt 18 ah, no controller or gearing. Momentary toggle to apply power.
????????????????
I might add, that I did this with my 450 watt bicycle. One to many dead stop starts messed things up. Believe rider should be pedaling before hitting switch. Note: My bike really moved.
 
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