unconventional ebike motors.

[mxlemming]

What about this motor.

NEW More Than 1000W High-power 12V-24V Brushless Motor Retrofit Large Models | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW More Than 1000W High-power 12V-24V Brushless Motor Retrofit Large Models at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

View attachment 341085


I saw it awhile ago. Looks like a belt drive. By the looks of it I seriouslly doubt a motor sprocket would even fit on it. Also I doubt the pully can even be removed,

Any thoughts on how I could use two of those to power an ebike will be greatly appreciated. I might do it if I can get the parts needed for a reasonable price.

Please post any links. The performance of the motor looks like a perfect match for what I want to do.

Amazon.com

View attachment 341086

There is another one I saw. It says 12S max so that is 12S LiPo as I used to run LiPo and ran 12S. The question is could it run 25 or 30V or not. Also what controller would work.

Currie 24V, 750W Motor

Currie 24V, 750W Motor

njshops.store

View attachment 341099


Is that the same as the 900W motor ?



If that is true then which is it. 450W , 750W or 900W. The 900W is around $115. I could buy three of these 750W motors for the price of one 900W so if they are the same what am I looking at here ???? I am now confused on these XYD motors.

glennb Could you be more specific.​

I have studied these motors for years and get conflicting information like this.


View attachment 341092

Here is more information on the XYD and Unite motors.

Vetting the XYD-16 (24V 450w DC Brush Motor)

Vetting the XYD-16 24V 450w DC Brush Motor While hunting for a replacement, I found the manufactures specs of this motor. Most surprising was that this 450w "rated" motor is capable of 750w output! No, not by over volting, simply by removing the current limitation. Rated 450w with a 26A...

endless-sphere.com

It seems like a lot of members have experience with these motors. Basically I don't care which combination of motors I use to achieve 35 mph minimum @ 25V LTO. $$$$$$$ is the main concern.

View attachment 341097
View attachment 341098
What motor sprocket would work and who could make it ?

I am looking for the cheapest motors that can do the job and be reliable. If I can do it with two motors instead of three then that is better. Two 750W motors on the back is better than two 500W Unite motors on the back and one on the front. I am not looking for all wheel drive for a cargo bike. I already have three all wheel drive ebikes. Two 36V and a 48V.

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Skyler out.

63mm diameter RC/esk8 motors will cook themselves on a bike. Esk8 has 2 of them usually. I built a bike with the 80mm version. Was good for 30mph. Any faster for any length of time and it got rather hot. Swapped to at12070 motor... 2x the mass... Much better. Far more fun.

 

[uhmwpolyethylene]

You’ll have to look beyond ebike motors. There’s some monstrous RC motors, down to around 120kV. No fun at all gearing them down, but it can be done.

That gives me an idea to look for powerful lighter motors that can fit somehow inside a Brompton fork with 7.4cm clearance, or mount as a mid drive that accommodates a Brompton fold. I can't imagine what an ungeared 96v, 120v motor would be like on a folder or a road bike haha

 

[Skyler]

It is fascinating. I am not that good with complicated gear reduction. I still never did a belt drive.

Also.

The thing is with brushless motors you can not run more than one with the same chain and wheel sprocket and controller like you can with brush motors.

How to Make Electric Bike using 775 motor 4 70km/h​

Copy and paste in youtube search.

That is a cool video. I started this post because I have been studying ebike motors for many years now. About 10 years.

like sharing what I can and hope someone out there enjoys it.

It don't matter if I build an exotic belt drive with two of those motors or not. The fact is I will probably stick with two 500W Unite motors and the cheaper 1,000W controller instead of the Kelly. I like the Kelly even though I was told they were cheap but I never owned one. I might not want to figure out the programmable part.

Yiyun will take forever if on the SLOOOOOW boat from China. Their standard method can take up to 6 weeks. Kelly has an American warehouse. Probably get one less than a week. I will have to check.

Not sure. The 24V 1,000W controllers they are selling on ebay don't give an amp rating. Kelly does. I am just glad I have a few weeks to figure this out. A 1,000W 24V controller has to at least push

1,000 / 24 = 41.6 amps. 42 amps is only 1,008W. A 45 amp controller is only 1,080 watts. If Yiyun is better than Kelly then why don't I see that rated in amps at 24V. A 50 amp would be half way decent as

24V * 50A = 1,200W.

I just do not see it and unless someone posts one I will have to go with Kelly for the controller. I might order it before I order any motors.

Maybe not.

ou need a current limiting controller in this application, with simplified throttle wiring. You’re not spoiled for choice. The Kelly is poor value for money. Yiyun own this market, and deservedly so.

I just discovered it will cost me extra for a USB or Bluetooth adapter and might need an android phone to program it. It may or may not be of poor value but could be too complicated for me so am looking at other options like maybe this








Electricscooterparts.com

It is about compromise. I will need to do that for this build. I want 1,500W or even 2 kilowatts but already have it with other builds.
I still will not settle for mediocre performance even for a cargo hauler.

50 amps and no programming is kind of simple. 25V * 50A = 1,200W. 30V = 1,500W.

I think there is also better heat dissipation for two 500W motors vs one 1,000W. Each motor will see 25 amps. That is why I will set gearing for.



I might settle for that. I looked and did not see a Yiyu controller like glennb stated was the best. I looked and did not find any more than 500W for 24V. I need a single controller for two motors and one chain.

As far as amps go I know Unite motors can do 25 amps as my 36V motor does it every day. That controller should be perfectly matched for two 24V 500W motors in parallel right ?

Does anyone have any info on the electric scooter parts controller?

Please let me know.

Thanks.

Skyler.

 

[glennb]

Hey Skyler,

I have to apologise. In hindsight I’m sure I’ve been unhelpful. In the grand scheme, all these things are trivial and there’s no need to fret about them.

That said, I’d recommend taking more heed when you’re being pulled up for naivety about specifications, because there’ll be instances when safety is the issue rather than merely underperformance.

Regarding Yiyan controllers. They’re a way to have fun with brushless motors without getting locked in to a 24V brushless motor ecosystem. A Kelly, on the other hand, seems like a commitment. Putting it the way your mother might: Brushed motors are the motors you date, not the ones you marry.

But either will be fine. Just not any more of those 2000 (Chinese) watt controllers without current limiting. (You clearly said it cooked, but after I referred to it you switched to saying it was a motor that cooked rather than the controller. Confusing, but no matter).

As to motor selections, it’s become abundantly clear what you want, so it’s hardly worth further discussion, but I think you asked about max current draw? It’s in the order of 100A for these sorts when stalled. That’s what would’ve blown your fuse, if not your 2000W controller. I haven’t used the XYD motor in question, but I tend to store data sheets for everything so can see about digging it out.

 

[glennb]

Sorry, should mention, the 36 and 48V MY1020 motors are comparable, but the 24V version is anaemic by comparison. If you look at the weights, you’ll see there’s less copper in it.

Also, you don’t need one controller - with brushless you can parallel them. They’re $5 from BMSBattery.

 

[glennb]

P

That gives me an idea to look for powerful lighter motors that can fit somehow inside a Brompton fork with 7.4cm clearance, or mount as a mid drive that accommodates a Brompton fold. I can't imagine what an ungeared 96v, 120v motor would be like on a folder or a road bike haha

it’ll be a busy fork with a motor and jackshaft, but if the wheelbase is short enough you ought to be able to endo while stationary.

 

[Skyler]

But either will be fine. Just not any more of those 2000 (Chinese) watt controllers without current limiting. (You clearly said it cooked, but after I referred to it you switched to saying it was a motor that cooked rather than the controller. Confusing, but no matter).

I stated that I was experimenting and tried to run a 36V motor with that NON current limiting controller at 20V 8S LTO. The motor got hot and smelled. When you severely overheat those motors the insulation melts and after that they get hot during normal operation. When running a DC motor at low voltage with no current limiting the motor will draw too much current.

If it doesn't have oils and/ or dust in it; then the enamel on the windings may start to cook off. That will have a pungent burned paint smell. Soon after that, the motor will burn out. It usually means that an electric motor is overheating when it smells hot and generates a strange odour.

I threw the bike and motor out as was moving. I ordered a new motor and bought a different bike. 40 amp NON current limiting controller still works. It might work better with two motors sharing the current but not taking a chance.

Sorry, should mention, the 36 and 48V MY1020 motors are comparable, but the 24V version is anaemic by comparison. If you look at the weights, you’ll see there’s less copper in it.

Also, you don’t need one controller - with brushless you can parallel them. They’re $5 from BMSBattery.

I already did experiment with two 250W BRUSH motors I pulled from those kids razor scooters people threw out. This was about 9 years ago. I hooked two in parallel and then in series with a 36V controller. The motors overheated in parallel but ran ok in series. Two motors and one wheel sprocket.

As far as I know it is not possible to do that with brushless motors. Also good luck finding a 24V brushless motor. I did see one rated at 500W but was > $100. These 500W 24V Unite motors are about 1/2 that price.

Yes one 500W Unite motor will have less copper than a 48V 1,000W Unite motor but two in parallel should have more copper than a single 48V 1,000W motor. As long as each 500W motor can handle 25 amps I am good. I realize 25 amps continuous could overheat at full throttle 30 mph cruising so will only do short bursts < 30 seconds. There are not any large hills here where I am.

Here is my wiring diagram if I go with two 500W Unite 24V motors. I posted the original wiring diagram above on my last post from electric scooter parts for the controller in question. This is my revised version for what I plan to do.



I am not familiar with that type of controller that shares the hot / positive wire with the motor / motors. It does sport a 3 wire throttle which is about all I like to use. I absolutely despise 4 or more wired throttles from experience.

it’ll be a busy fork with a motor and jackshaft, but if the wheelbase is short enough you ought to be able to endo while stationary.

Yea there are a lot of complicated set ups and systems deployed for ebikes and EVs. I tend to shy away from the complex in favor of simplicity. If I had hands on help I would be happy to embrace more complicated gear reduction systems and programmable controllers. But going SOLO HELL to the no.

Thanks.

Skyler out.

 

[calab]

Nice to have money to spend so frivously.

complicated set ups and systems deployed for ebikes and EVs. I tend to shy away from the complex in favor of simplicity.

E-bikes are childs play, not until you buy a proprietary bike and something goes wrong do you get screwed and it gets complicated then you dont ride your expensive ride.

DIY is great for simplicity, but your off in the weeds, concocting your own drink mixes instead of walking down the main aisles. I cant comment on Electric Automobiles which would be complicated.

Simplicity is also embracing old tech or components that are still readily available, straight forks not tapered, common bb's, 7/8/9 spds, tire sizes. I went to Honda motorbike, they sell ebikes, I wanted an 8spd chain and they said non in stock, LMFAO

 

[glennb]

Skyler, I think it’s sensible to avoid jackshafts, freewheeling cranksets, and belts, but not a hub motor.

You want a chain drive. OK. But there’s no good argument for using two motors in this application, brushed or otherwise - it’s unnecessary complexity. XYD make larger motors. Have a look on Alibaba. There’s a supplier or two there. Don’t worry about minimum order quantities, just request a sample.

Sorry, I used the word brushless earlier with regard to paralleling controllers. It slips out without thinking, I’m not used to having to type the word brushed.

And sorry about misunderstanding what cooked. I skim read and miss plenty. The controller was the last thing you referred to prior to overheating, but you were obviously referring to the motor.

“had one of those 2,000W 40 amp brush controllers. Once they over heat they smell and after that will over heat and smell at low throttle and normal operation.”

 

[Skyler]

Nice to have money to spend so frivously.

If I had it to do over I would NOT have ordered 24 - 18 Ah Lishen 2.5V cells that weigh almost 50 pounds. Instead I would have ordered 16 - 25Ah TOPBAND cells from a US manufacturer. They are half the weight and 7 more AH. Good for about 30 miles.

It' s why I am exploring 24V options as since I am stuck with 24 - 2.5V LTO cells that weigh 900 grams each.

900 grams = 1.98416 pounds so 2 pounds easily with connecters. So 10S = 20 pounds and 12S = 24 pounds. 22S = 44 pounds , in boxes 46 pounds.

It is why a daily commuter running 10S OR 12S LTO is non negotiable. I spent lots of $$$ on LTO and for the last three years I only ran them a few times. I need to be able to run them 95% of the time and save my LIFEPO4 for longer trips and higher voltage set ups.

I still have > two weeks to decide on 24V motors. Right now it seems like the 24V Unite motors are my best bet. They should handle 25 amps each for < 30 seconds and 20 amps continuous which should do steady 26 to 27 mph cruising without over heating.

My 1,000W 36V Unite motor with a 26 or 28 amp controller runs like a top and gets barley warm even at full throttle. Two 24V motors should handle 25 amps each with no worries. The 36V motor does about 27 or 28 mph on the flat. Two 24V motors geared for 30 mph should out accelerate a single 36V 1,000W motor.

You want a chain drive. OK. But there’s no good argument for using two motors in this application, brushed or otherwise - it’s unnecessary complexity. XYD make larger motors. Have a look on Alibaba. There’s a supplier or two there. Don’t worry about minimum order quantities, just request a sample.

Oh but there is. Two motors and one chain should run better than a single chain. One motor will be stationary with the second able to slide closer to the first motor to loosen the chain and away to tighten. That is the only complex part. The added bonus is the second motor doubles as a chain tensioner.

Also two motors should dissipate heat better than one. There is more surface area and four power wires vs. two going to the motors. It should run cooler than a single 36 or 48V motor pushing 1,200 watts.

1,200W / 50A = 24V - 50A / 2 = 25 amps each motor.

1,200W / 43V = 28A

1,200W / 55V = 22A.

The 55V motor would be the most efficient and best choice but NOT with 50 pounds of batteries to push it.

Therefore two 24V motors is a no brainer with only 20 pounds battery weight.

I already have a 48V 1,000W Unite motor on the front of a 27.5" full suspension with a 1,500W brand new hub kit in the rear.

Look at the total power output

60 amps * 55V = 3,300 watts. I geared the front chain for about 30 mph and hit 33.5 mph on flat with the rear hub. I have not tested the front chain yet but sports its own DC breaker and left throttle. The right is twist grip for the hub.

Basically if it all works it is my Flagship ebike. It is what I would take to a place that has big hills. The big downfall is my 56V LIFEPO4 is getting old and tired but could go a few hundred more cycles.. The more I run them though for short trips the less cycles.

I can run either my 3,300W full suspension or my 1,800W brushless with the 38 amp controller with 56V LIFEPO4 which is about 30 pounds. Still 20 pounds lighter than LTO.

If I run 25V exclusively for the shorter trips then my LIFEPO4 will last a long time and work for longer trips. It st makes sense.





We may not agree on everything but I can see why you said the Currie 900W motor will over heat at > 20 amps. The 36V motor I run daily now with 43V LIFEPO4 is rated at a ridiculous

Thanks.

Skyler out.

 

[glennb]

Alright, My1020s it is.

You’re on the right track for those motors. On flat ground they shouldn’t overheat with 30mph gearing.

The acceleration with 30mph gearing and only 60A will be uninspiring though. I’d add a couple of Yiyans on a boost button, but if you want to use that “2000w” controller, you could wire it in parallel with minimum 200A fuse and boost button activated for five seconds. Use fat short wires. With no BMS you don’t have to worry about tripping it.

Fans forcing air through the motors should be enough to prevent demagnetisation when hill climbing on hot days.

There’s no question you should use the LTO, I’d be doing the same. But since these cells will last you a lifetime, it’s a setup you’re in bed with for the long haul and it’d be sensible to pair them with a better motor setup. You aren’t conducting an exhaustive search for more suitable motors, and I can’t understand why not.

 

[Skyler]

I posted quite a few on my previous posts. I think two of those belt drive motors would be cool if I could figure out the wheel pully. I would need the same size as the belt in width and what gearing options ???? Also how much more than a simple Unite set up ?? Will the belt slide off ???

That RC motor could work but was belt too. Custom fit motor sprockets and wheel pullies are something I would need direct links to in order to consider and would need to be affordable. Same thing with jackshafts. Complex for me.

I was actually thinking a 20" bike with the two Unite motors and 10S LTO and a 26" bike with 24" wheels for 12S 30V LTO.

The 30V will get the Kelly controller later on like the spring when I get an android phone to program. The 30V will be three 24V motors. Two in the rear and a single in the front. A 100 amp continuous programable controller.

That is why I am doing the 25V - 20" bike first. It gives me about 6 months to find better motor options than Unite.

Thanks and keep posting. I Iove just checking out different motors. You never know when a different one will pop up.







Something like that Needs to be 24V though not 12V. I just saw that.

But where is the sprocket ??? If I got something like that ,, where can I get a 15T motor sprocket that will fit that shaft ??

the 38T wheel and a 15T are both available at electric scooter parts but only the wheel will work. I called them on a similar motor shaft and they said they could not do it. It is a custom machine shop deal or no deal.

Thanks.

Skyler.

 

[calab]

If you want to stay in the 24v range, why not look at 6s rc motors in a kv that suits your speed requirements.
Whats an even more unconventional ebike motor is placing those motors shafts in series for extra w's
Seen 2kw rc motors in 6s
Gear reduction is the key, or do a friction drive outrunner rc motor fwd

 

[Skyler]

If you want to stay in the 24v range, why not look at 6s rc motors in a kv that suits your speed requirements.
Whats an even more unconventional ebike motor is placing those motors shafts in series for extra w's
Seen 2kw rc motors in 6s
Gear reduction is the key, or do a friction drive outrunner rc motor fwd

RC motors do not have the torque hub and chain drive brushless motors do. It might be ok on a front fork though with a 500W Bafang on the back. RC power to torque ratios are laughable compared to larger DC motors.

I would gear an RC motor by itself for about 26 mph if it was rated at 3 kilowatts to 4 kilowatt's. If I used it up front with a decent 1,000W or 1,500W rear hub. 28 / 35. That is common speed for those. The trick is a single thumb throttle to both controllers and the front wheel spinning at same rpm as rear. That gives better traction and handling.

I would prefer belt drive though with the RC motor. I watched videos of them. My 1,800W brushless motor does > 32 mph and I tied a rope to the frame of a 26" bike with two motors and drug it down the road about 3/4 mile sparks flying. I would like to see an RC motor do that.

The bike was a Currie with a heavy 36V 750W gear reduction rear with a Bafang up front. It was a drunken wreck as was running 50V LTO and missed the turn. Up a hill green light I think.

A front motor wont steer good taking turns under throttle. Hit the curb hard enough to turn the front Bafang into a pretzel. Lucky I did not get banged up. Was a bottle of rum and over a year ago. Had to carry 50 pounds of LTO .7 miles. close to 3/4 mile.

The 1,800W brushless motor got hot but did not smell like the brush motor. It might actually be a 1,200 watt motor as 26 amps but it has that seat of the pants torque as soon as you touch the throttle. I doubt you will feel that with an RC motor. Maybe the biggest one at 8 to 10 kilowatts with a jackshaft.

A winch motor like I posted but at 24V is probably way more torque than even my 3 kilowatt brushless motor. It is 3,600W. 4.8 kilowatts.

It is a lot larger than my 3,000W motor. Probably 10 pounds heavier. All it needs is a Kelly controller pushing 100 amps continuous
and a machined sprocket. NOT having the machined sprocket being the deal breaker.

Kelly even makes a 12V controller. There is the specs.

That is the best Kelly controller for the 12V winch motor.

A = peak / continuous.

KDZ24401

12-24V

30V

400A

160A

15V * 160 amps = 2,400W continuous

15V * 4,000 amps = 6 kilowatts..

If I go with 6S - 2P LTO that is 15V > 4 kilowatts easily and around 2,500 rpm. Very simple gear reduction. 25 pound battery with box and hardware. Looking at about 52 mph gearing.

I guess during the peak I could maybe hit 50 mph but then slow down to around 45 mph for continuous power. Kind of easy to imagine in real time / life.

If I can get a sprocket I might do it. Everything else I can just order.

What a beast it would be.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

Skyler..

 

[calab]

I just seen 2kw rc motors for sale, the only higher wattage rc motors would be the Astro has more power, bigger and which I read on the forums that controllers cant handle, people breaking multiple esc's, expensive esc's because more power = more $. Expensive controllers, expensive motors (Astro's are expensive) but its the big dog, like Lightning Rods is to Mid drives.

 

[harrisonpatm]

That gives me an idea to look for powerful lighter motors that can fit somehow inside a Brompton fork with 7.4cm clearance, or mount as a mid drive that accommodates a Brompton fold. I can't imagine what an ungeared 96v, 120v motor would be like on a folder or a road bike haha

 

[uhmwpolyethylene]

That's interesting... they also have this saw20 narrow front hub motor hitting 800-1000w with motor coolant, dunno if it fits on the back

The aftermarket for brompton is insane, you could make huge buckets of money for building a better mousetrap. People are already paying 1200-2500+ for kits, some including a replacement rear triangle

probably because it's the only really really safe (touring 1000s of miles with no breaks, albeit rusty steel or expensive titanium) folds really compact bike. They have some rear zehus kit that requires a whole new steel or titanium rear triangle too for an expensive heavy crappy 250w huh motor with lame internal batteries.
Two narrow drone motors for AWD ir something would probably kick all kinds of ass. I had an idea too for a non folder that would be one monocoque bar with telescoping quick release seatpost and handlebars and it stacks to accommodate a mid drive, maybe with better air cooling these drone motors could be adapted into a mid drive for brompton or an ultra narrow clown bike (made of the finest aerospace carbon and titanium of course). If you're talking ultra compact high power energy, do 96/120/144v batteries make sense? They have that Brompton crystallite motor running at 72 when it's rated for 48

 

[uhmwpolyethylene]

if drone motors have issues, i always wondered too about how stuff like this compares to ebike motors

 

[calab]

small hub motor for stand up scooters dont have much power, because they are small. The rc motor 6374 does 10-12s, 3kw, 192kv. $99usd esc for that much voltage.

edit
Seems like this fella might be the OP's twin with the handy work. 80xxx motor the other with Dewalt tool battery, looks sweet. I was just thinking of a rc mid drive on the evening ride. ebike motor thats in the unconventional category as requested by op.

 

[Skyler]

Not sure why I get this ? Can you guys play the video ?

Might be a setting on my laptop.. It is why I post the name of the videos I post so can copy and paste in youtube search box.






Unless the RC motor is a belt drive a motor sprocket will be required. I still do not know exactly who can machine custom motor sprockets. Also wheel pullies for belt drive.

If someone has a 3D printer that can print metal then custom motor sprockets can be printed but not sure how durable it would be. I know planetary gears in geared hub motors can be printed and are hard plastic. I do not think a plastic motor sprocket would hold up though.

As far as winch motors I learned thru research , some are rated for intermittent duty. That means they may not be suitable for an ebike as it will over heat after 5 minutes or so. However if the motor is rated at 4.8 horsepower that is 3,600 watts @ 12V. At 18V you get 7.2 horse power or 5,400 watts. That would be a whopping 300 amps as 5,400 W/ 18V = 300 amps.

A Kelly controller rated at 200 amps peak and 120 amps continuous would be 18V * 200 amps = 3,600W. 18V * 120 = 2,160 watts. The question is will an intermittent duty motor over heat at 2, 160W or 120 amps at 18V when the rating is 300 amps at 12V.

There are 24V winch motors more suitable for an ebike but I have yet to see an rpm. rating for those. I only saw an rpm. rating on the 12V motor which was rated at 2,100 rpm. A 24V 2,100 rpm motor would be perfect for an e bike as

24V * 120 amps = 2,880W. I have seen motors rated as high as 6 horsepower or 4,500 watts. The question if it is classified as an intermittent motor at 4,500 watts could it run continuously at 2,800 watts without over heating ??

Basically a 12V motor is also a poor choice because 6 gauge silicone wire would be required and to get decent power 18V which would be a lot higher rpm. than the motor is rated for. If anyone can find a 24V motor with a suitable rpm rating and at least 4.8 horsepower please post it. I am curious. Also if anyone has a metal 3D printer how much would a custom motor sprocket cost to make and ship. I might be interested in getting one.

Also I have an ebikeling hub motor that is making a lot of noise. They do not make a rebuild kit like they do for Bafang motors. A 3D printer might be able to print the parts needed to rebuild e bikeling and other geared hub motors.

Thanks guys for keeping this post going. I would love to build a mid drive RC motor on a light ebike project and a belt drive would be ideal as smoother acceleration and better gear reduction options. Custom two stage gear reduction could be done with a 3D printer as well. What do you all think.

Please post when you can.

Skyler out.

 

[uhmwpolyethylene]

. 80xxx motor the other with Dewalt tool battery, looks sweet.

so sweet.
this product has a system he calls "high drive" , puts out 1000w-3800w/5000w at 8lb

Chimera BMX

Chimera BMX

chimerabmx.com

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bike weight itself is like 24lb and 36-38 total

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClPWW9Lj9e0/?hl=en

it does upside down flips too!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CgquGjvlORn/?hl=en

 

[calab]

Imagination is only limited by your craftsmanship, dream away..... lots do.\
Action is needed, skills needed, fabrication skills needed, most importantly motivation is needed.
Dream on!

 

[Skyler]

I might have another bad Bafang... Not mine but sold it to a friend so if it is shot I will have to give him another motor.. Could be the cable unhooked but He said it made a noise. It don't sound good.

Looking at my 36V - 750W gear reduction. on my 700C. It has a 26" Bafang up front and the gear motor on the back.. both 26" wheels.

The reason for the post is I might get two 500W - 24V Unite motors to replace it as it is a big frame so will easily hold the two 6S - LTOs in a custom rack. One on each side of the triangle.

I wont need the front Bafang that is on the front then so can use it for a spare or another bike. My friend cant fit a front motor as the forks are for really skinny axle. The rear Bafang is the motor in question on the back of his bike. He said it don't run at all now. Motor made noise and cable maybe came unhooked. He was not clear over the phone.

Two 5000W 24V motors @ 30V

500W / 24V = 20.8W * 30 = 1,250W.

Gearing is 31 mph.

Thanks.

Skyler. out.

 

[calab]

Whatever you do
Keep it Simple

You should encourage your friend to save up a bit, and get decent products if your friend is serious about riding an ebike or buy the cheap toys passed off as ebikes on the interwebs.

 

[Skyler]

I just want to get him going. Looking at giving him a loaner bike until he can get a hub kit.. Not sure. what happened until I go up there. The motor was spinning great when I was there. The dude is like 280 pounds and not familiar with thumb throttles. Why I installed a rear hub for him. I wont know exactly what went wrong until I get there.

Skyler.