Motorino XPn Chinese ebike (scooter)

I'm not vouching for either of these vendors, I'm just saying don't get crappy SLA's from sask battery...

Those 6-dzm-20's look like the ones that came with my scooter, and lasted over 2 years

I'm not sure what exactly the difference is between them...
 
About sla batteries
Last year I got a set (48v) from century battery for my xph they were something like 24 ah, but seemed reasonably priced...$360?
The warrenty was a year...

They didn't last 6 months... They replaced one, but should have gotten them all replaced, and within a month they were toast again! It took a week to have the replacement shipped from Vancouver!

I am not impressed... I have started replacing them with Motorino batteries... 20 ah 2 at a time... I am thinking I should replace the worst one every month or two, to keep it from being a 400$ shot every 6 months!
The dealers say to replace them all at once, but doing 2 at a time is working well! I think you don't need to do them all at once.

I've noticed that the battery in the center of the pack is the one that bloats and stops working properly first... I think it's because it gets too hot in the pack surrounded by other batteries!

Has anyone noticed this?
Tom
 
I didn't keep my SLAs long enough for them to deteriorate :lol: I actually sold them to another Motorino scooter guy who was very happy to get them.

I searched and found a few option for snow tires if anyone is interested. I'm interested in the tire ''IRC Urban Snow 59J M+S''. The third one in the list below.

http://www.schwalbetires.com/scooter_tires/iceman
http://moto.michelin.co.uk/tyres/michelin-city-grip-winter#dim
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/tire-urban-snow-35010-snow-p-6618-1.html?sessID=e86691eb631a3ef2951913b6e989c579#.UwjI2-M7vTp
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/tire-kenda-k701-35010-p-24751-1.html?sessID=e86691eb631a3ef2951913b6e989c579#.UwjI-OM7vTp
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/tire-heidenau-35010-p-88809-1.html?sessID=e86691eb631a3ef2951913b6e989c579#.UwjJoOM7vTo
http://www.easyparts.nl/showarticles_info/0143557895/0-4019-156-7-41-234-2596-2603-3119/Tyre_SAVA_MC32_Winscoot_Winter_3.50-10_TL-TT_51P.html
 
Thanks for the info, have ordered any and how do they perform ?

Jim
 
I haven't used any of them, but I figure that any of them are better on snow and ice then the Michelin S1s I have now. I'm getting a pair for next winter for sure.

EDIT: geez! I recently noticed that I'm past the 8300 km mark on the odometer.
 
mistercrash said:
I haven't used any of them, but I figure that any of them are better on snow and ice then the Michelin S1s I have now. I'm getting a pair for next winter for sure.

EDIT: geez! I recently noticed that I'm past the 8300 km mark on the odometer.


Wow, I am just going to hit 1000km in a week or so, a buddy here in Ottawa has hit 15000 km on his in one year

Also quick question are the mirrors on the bike the right height or width for you I find mine to be narrow to my body width when riding, do you know what the threads size would be for the arms?

Jim
 
I have the same thing about the mirrors. I made it a little better by bending the rods a bit more to get the mirrors more outward. I don't know the thread size, I didn't check when I took the mirrors off to do the work I did.
 
Hello,

I have a few questions. I am about to buy a LiFePO4 battery from Ping Battery. I am thinking of this one : 48V 20AH - http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-2/lifepo4-lithium-ion-phosphate/Detail.
I still have the original SLA pack from Motorino. Yesterday, I disassemble my Motorino XPN to take the original SLA battery off the bike. To my surprise, the wiring was very simple: only a red (+) and black (-) cable connected to the battery, like this:

2qvujk7.jpg


However, the wiring diagram from Ping batteries indicates that it uses 2 circuits : one for charging, one for discharging, like this:

wqk5e.jpg


So, it made me wonder how does Motorino battery work? It uses the same circuit for discharging and charging?
Then, to make the Ping Battery work on my Motorino, I was thinking of soldering the charging circuit of the Ping battery directly to the cable right after the input plug, by cutting it. Here in picture:

29atvyf.jpg


Can you please advise if what I am thinking of doing is correct?
Thanks in advance!
 
Yep, you have that right.

The stock lead batteries in your motorino have the same charge/discharging lines. They have no BMS circuitry.

Your Ping battery has separate charge/discharge wires, so you'll want to hook up the discharge to the main batteries, and the charge wires to the charging outlet.

So yes, you have it right. Just be sure you have + and - correct on the charging port!
 
Epic thread! (Ranks right up there with that other famous ES thread "Watt colour lipstick should I use to make my pig look less like a pig?".)

(Notice how posters in this thread are almost entirely Hosers? From the land of the more pathetic 500 watts?)
 
Take off hoser! Yeah, I put some info on stuff I did that worked on my scooter and other stuff that failed sometimes catastrophically. It's the progression of a newb in the ebike adventure. Some decided to take part in it. It has to be done here since the other ebike hoser forum doesn't support any talk about anything that goes over 32 km/h. Like Rick Mercer said it best, bunch of Torontardeds.

And fabien, what granola said makes sense to me. The + and - wires that plugs into the SLA battery will plug in the + and - of the Ping but they also go out to the side of the scooter where they split into several other wires that go out to the controller, the DC/DC converter and the charging jack in front under the seat. So your plan for using that charging jack should work very well and make a clean conversion to Ping Lithium.
 
You tell him, your info has helped me with some questions I had on this great e bike/ scooter and I keep a eye on here just I case you have come up with any cool ideas I may scoop for my scooter.

Laser
 
mistercrash said:
And fabien, what granola said makes sense to me. The + and - wires that plugs into the SLA battery will plug in the + and - of the Ping but they also go out to the side of the scooter where they split into several other wires that go out to the controller, the DC/DC converter and the charging jack in front under the seat. So your plan for using that charging jack should work very well and make a clean conversion to Ping Lithium.

Yeah your heavy gauge power leads will go where the sla cables go. Cutting and splicing in the charge port for your ping light gauge cables and make your charging nice and clean and easy
 
Awesome! Thank you all for your quick replies!
I will go ahead and order the Ping battery now. Can't wait to try it!! :)
 
Crash have been able to find the link to the replacement bulb that you got for your bike

If you find it let me know

Thanks
 
Laserman, sorry can't find the link. Google for a BA20D xenon bulb.

So here is where I'm at building a spot welder following some of the directions of Albert, here's his welder. http://www.avdweb.nl/tech-tips/spot-welder.html Very obvious that my welder is a lot simpler, just a switch to let the current pass through to make the weld. Aside from the 2 gauge welding cable and the aluminum U channel, plus a bit of hardware, I had everything lying around or I just found it somewhere else. Like the microwave oven I found on the side of the road that the garbage men didn't pick up. Work is slow on this, I don't have much time and since my wife lost her job, money is tight.

I have a Arduino board which is already programmed according to Albert's instructions but I just can't figure out how to make the electronic components shown on his graphic.

spot_welder1_zps3c034879.jpg


I'm at the point where I need to get some C101 copper square rods to make a couple electrodes and electrodes holder. Albert uses a couple radiator ground clamps for the holders but I can't buy them from his link and I didn't find them anywhere else.
 
mistercrash said:
Laserman, sorry can't find the link. Google for a BA20D xenon bulb.

So here is where I'm at building a spot welder following some of the directions of Albert, here's his welder. http://www.avdweb.nl/tech-tips/spot-welder.html Very obvious that my welder is a lot simpler, just a switch to let the current pass through to make the weld. Aside from the 2 gauge welding cable and the aluminum U channel, plus a bit of hardware, I had everything lying around or I just found it somewhere else. Like the microwave oven I found on the side of the road that the garbage men didn't pick up. Work is slow on this, I don't have much time and since my wife lost her job, money is tight.

I have a Arduino board which is already programmed according to Albert's instructions but I just can't figure out how to make the electronic components shown on his graphic.

spot_welder1_zps3c034879.jpg


I'm at the point where I need to get some C101 copper square rods to make a couple electrodes and electrodes holder. Albert uses a couple radiator ground clamps for the holders but I can't buy them from his link and I didn't find them anywhere else.

Crash I will be doing a tech mech run and I will
Look out for your clamps and copper rod this week
If they are cheep I will pick them up for u
 
What is the issue for the CCT that you have crash? If you can check your local electronics store for bread board that is single side copper clad, if not check the local tech school/university they might be able to help to get you some and if you have issues have them look at the CCT for you and help you with de bugging it

Jim
 
mistercrash said:
What do you mean by CCT?
CCT electronic geek speak for circuit

:D
 
Hehe... Maybe see also "Continuous Current Transmission"
 
I guess the only issue I have, and this is just because of my own electronics ignorance here, is that I could probably figure out how to fabricate everything on the schematics but it would help me to have a detailed materials list to make sure I get the correct components. I'm not confident enough to start buying resistors and diodes and capacitors and stuff from what I can figure out from the schematic with my limited knowledge.

That is why I first want to try my spot welder with a simple switch to see if the welds will be acceptable. I think I will just have to watch out not to make the transformer overheat by making too many welds one after the other.
 
Most of the electronics cost about a total I think 20 - 30 bucks
 
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