Motorino XPn Chinese ebike (scooter)

Since you have your scooter in maintenance mode :) could you post a quick pic of your controller label a buddy is questioning what his says against mine and would like a 3rd opinion just to see if there is any discrepancies between model years

Jim
 
I got all the front end re-intalled with two new shocks and new bearings and bearing races for the steering column. I found that a bearing was going in the motor so I changed it for a new one. While the scooter was in pieces I re-sprayed a lot of parts and the frame to protect from rust. After all this work I'm also ready to start welding my Konion cells to make a new battery.

BUT! I'm having controller problems, the same FET is shorting all the time. I replaced it twice already and it keeps on shorting. I don't know what is causing that so despite having done all this work, I'm still going to work on foot this week :x There are times when I really want to go back to owning a car and this is one of them.
 
Which controller the stock or a upgraded unit? If you can check toysrus for a cheap USB micro
Scope type device and check all the traces on the board if you can or a very strong and large magnifying
Glass the ones with a light are good too
Jim
 
It's a Lyen 18 fet controller. I found another thing that failed, my cycle analyst. The left button is not working again. Water got into it the first time so maybe the same thing happened again.

I'm spending so much time and money to keep this thing running that it's starting to look like a gas scooter would be cheaper to run and a lot more reliable.
 
There was an issue wiht one version o hte face of the cav2's, check with ebikes.ca to get that fixed. i think they just sned you a new front piece and you just move the guts into it?
 
mistercrash said:
LockH said:
Interesting! Notice how almost NObuddy on Alt-Planet ES gets involved in this long-running thread? Why d'you think that is?

I don't know man, why don't you explain it to me.

"able to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear."

EG, kinetic energy is defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.

In electric traction terms, a lighter vehicle requires less kWh per wattEVer (so, smaller battery packs per desired distances between recharges).

At one point, vehicle weight described as 81kg (179lb, without battery pack).

For comparison, a Honda Ruckus (may look familiar to some), at a 49-50 CC gasoline engine, top speed (depending on the road) maybe varies from 35-45 MPH. So minimum maybe about 56 kmh.

Pulled by almost five horses. (For a REALLY heavy rider/chariot/cargo, one might assume. Pity the poor horses.)

EDIT: In a land limited to only one smallish pony.
 
amberwolf said:
There was an issue wiht one version o hte face of the cav2's, check with ebikes.ca to get that fixed. i think they just sned you a new front piece and you just move the guts into it?

Thanks amberwolf,

I did have a problem with the front face in the winter of 2012/2013. I contacted ebikes.ca to buy a replacement face. I was asked to send pics of my set up on the scooter which I did. It was decided that there shouldn't be any water going in the way it is installed on my scooter so I was offered a free replacement face to fix the problem. Very nice of ebikes.ca.
But after another winter of riding (2013/2014), the same problem occurs. I don't think they would've sent me a replacement face that had the problem you mentionned. And I'm somewhat hesitant to contact them again for this same problem.

LockH, go talk with the Torontardeds.
 
All the can say is sorry no, but never know :)
 
Sounds like you need a decent controller - I believe controllers should be sealed boxes that perform to within their specified capabilities and never fail. If you spend the money on a decent controller upfront it should never let you down. Lots of guys have had success with Kelly controllers on anything up to 10 kW. Might be worth a shot?
 
Thanks Chris,

I'll see what I'll do with this scooter in the near future, for now, I'm just enjoying going to work with my bicycle. It's easy going to work down the hill. It's a bit of a pain coming back up lol. I've been following your thread and your bike is absolutely awesome.
 
I took the 18S20P battery I'm running and transformed it into a 15S20P, that way I was able to install the original 48V controller of the scooter and the thing is running fine now.

I was hoping I could adjust the voltage of my bulk charger but it will not go below 64V so I have to charge with my BC168 which takes some time to do.

Now that the scooter is functionnal (lost the use of my CA though), I can concentrate on making this new battery by spot welding the cells. I already made a 7S6P battery for my son's Razor E200 using the spot welder for practice. It does well on the positive side of the cells but it's a bit more tedious to do the negative side without over heating the surface and ending up blowing a hole in the cell. With practice I was able to get a good rythm on my foot pedal and I found how important it is to keep the electrodes very clean to prevent those blow outs.

The plan is to make a 16S20P battery, made into four 4S packs with four balance tabs to balance charge once a week and bulk charge after every use. Much like I've been doing for the last two years. I will then be able to use my bulk charger and bulk charge up to 64V, and I will balance charge to 4V per cell. This will keep the voltage at a safe level for the controller and it should extend the life of the pack.

I want to get a new CA so that I have a way of setting a LVC.
 
Glad to hear your back on the road again, your idea to bring in the old controller and 48 v at least will get you along. And putting the new pack with tabs for balance charge is good

Jim
 
How goes the battery building ? Hope you are having fun making sparks and having welded batteries appear as you build your pack

Jim
 
The battery building is extremely slow. I put in a little time when I can as I am busy lately with other house projects. I managed to put together one 4S20P module, I'm at the stage where I have to install a balance connector, the main wires.

konion_battery_two1_zps47851ec8.jpg


konion_battery_two2_zpsb37caec5.jpg


My welder is not good enough to weld two layers of Nickel strips so I have to solder the strips to make the series connections from cell to cell. I also have to get some 1/4'' thick Polycarbonate to make four boxes to house the modules. I'm trying to find a supplier locally to save on shipping. With my wife out of a job, money is tight. At my job, there's the threat of a strike or even a lockout in July so money wise, things are difficult lately. So the building is at a slow crawl.
 
Sorry to hear about the possible strike and such, for the poly do a check at the local walmart ask if any one sees big pieces from display called pdq s if so to hold them for you
Jim
 
Swweettt quick question how hard was it to take off the front panel so I can check and lube the steering tube? Do I have to take the wheel off or any other strange bits for this ?
Thanks
Jim
 
It's no big deal to take the front panel off, you just take screws out until it falls on the floor lol. Take off the headlight assembly (three screws and a plug to unplug), take off the left/right signal lights (four screws and two plugs to unplug), then take off the front panel (8 screws).

When re-installing the parts, only snug up the screws that go into ABS. Just snug them up because if you torque them too much you'll break the ABS.
 
Thanks looks like I,will be making a dive inside the covers soon and will be installing some speakers and a amp with Bluetooth receiver, I got from a buddy a bolt on coffee/drink holder for the handlebar and it looks good and holds a mcd's large drink and a heated coffee mug as well that plugs into the power socket .
 
This went much faster than I thought. Four modules welded together ready for connectors and Lexan boxes.

konion_battery_two3_zps2b3af970.jpg


A few things I learned welding these things together. My welder is not the best, with practice I think I managed to put together four good modules that should turn out to be a decent battery for my scooter. but with this kind of welder I always had the fear of having a bolwout welding the negative side of the cells. without really good timing on the switch, these blowouts will mess up the whole thing.

I practiced a lot welding on dead cells and then I practiced some more on this small battery I made for my son's scooter. Today I checked the voltage on that battery and one cell showed 0.778V. Second thing I learned, the cullprit was one blowout that happened making that battery. I thought it was fine as I could not see a hole through the can but there was one because it leaked some liquid and messed up the whole 6P string.

Third thing I learned, when a battery is welded together with plastic spacers to make it look all nice and factory made, you can't change just one cell without taking half the battery apart. which means, somehow breaking all the welds on the cells, ruining all of the Nickel strips and regrinding the cells to make them clean to accept new welds. Grinding them a second time will make the metal too thin I'm afraid to try to weld them back together.

These lessons make me say this here: when welding cells together, do it with very good equipment, wether it be a very high quality DIY welder or some of those expensive welders so that nothing messes up your cells. Because when they're welded together, you can take them apart once but I don't think you can do it twice.
 
Like they say measure twice cut once or weld once but not twice:)
 
Crash, how is life doing hope fully no strike for you. Were you able to get your controller issues fixed up or are you still on the old controller

Jim
 
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