muxus 3000 chugging ?

[999zip999]

Works fine means. I tried a 12fet on the 3,000 and it chugged so put a 9 fet on the 3,000 it chugged.
I then put the 9fet on a different hub a 2810 and it worked fine on the 2810. I would have to make a wire adapter to test the 12fet on the 2810 to see if it's still good also. Need to get more pins for adapter. To test the 12fet as it made the leds rotate on the ebike tester. What does a loose magnet sound like ?
Chugging means it runs with a hard da da da and low power. Maybe in C.R. is a bad gumble but with low useable power. Chugging like a 6 cylinder car running on 4 cylinders. Undriveable.

 

[John in CR]

Have you bothered to try all 6 combos of halls or phase to make sure you don't just have a false positive wiring combo?...not 36, just 6. Look out though, because if so then the valid combo that spins up smooth with no "chugging" will spin backward and the pedals won't freewheel that direction. With some motors false positive wiring combos can run kinda ok, especially on flat road and low speed. On HubMonster I did 103mph with incorrect wiring, though the bad wiring only ended up with a 3° timing advance, nothing like a bad combo on a 3 phase.

Between 0 and 8 miles out on it's maiden voyage, how many times did you stop and check for heat? Did you do so immediately upon the start of "chugging"? How about the wire harness at the exit? Those slot type exits are prone to wire harness damage, because you have a spinning part the harness can easily rub. I remove any factory plastic there, and use a good wrap of 16ga magnet wire to squeeze the harness to the axle and make it impossible to rub....4 or 5 twists to tighten it down and cut off any excess.

Did you check motor phases with the ebike tester? You have to give the wheel a good spin by hand to get the lights to blink. How about the throttle, did you test it, or prove that it's fine with the 9C?

FWIW, working fine or chugging without stating whether that's no-load or under load leaves what's happening unclear. No vids and chugging as your status report is difficult to diagnose remotely. Also, when you have an ebike tester, there's no need to go to all that trouble of measuring hall voltages and such...If all 3 blink, then they're fine, though it doesn't exclude the potential for a bad connection or an intermittent short, which can be real head scratchers.

A loose magnet would be a pretty distinct sound, not like chugging a beer or the chugging of a choo choo train. I've never heard a hubbie chug so you gotta record it for us at some point.

 

[999zip999]

O.k. tried 12fet on the 2810 and it worked fine. Must be a false pos. on the wire combo or short in the muxus 3,000 motor. Wow days.
Thanks everyone so far.

 

[Stevil_Knevil]

..or short in the motor..

[youtube]sBknAcTaMiI[/youtube]

Zip, If you have not already - NOW might be a good time to pull the wire-side motor cover and confirm there are no abrasions in the wires' insulation where they exit..

 

[999zip999]

Yes I did that. Plus pulled the wires thru the axle and cut the 6in. Of phase wire and resoder. I left the hall wires long, but checked with magnet and ebike tested and tested good. Inside things look, I guess good. Will get 2nd bike. Then start again. Take a break.
So put the 2810 and 9fet @ 72v30a street crusier back on and took a ride to the beach. 6~8ft. Waves and 5 cameras as surf point and sunset. Boy I needed that 2200watt street crusier. So no more taking that apart just need second bike. Plus space.
Thanks but I tap out for a week. Go Riding M.F.

 

[999zip999]

So I cut the white connector and put a J.S.T. 5 pin for the halls. But still going to wait for a second bike. Not taking my daily driver apart my heart just can't take it. Like I mean I can't ride today ?

 

[crea2k]

There are only so many things that can go wrong with a motor, as they not exactly complex :

Bearings
Halls
Internal Phase Wires
External Hall & Phase Wires
Loose Magnets

 

[arkmundi]

Zipman, nothing to offer for your diagnosis of the problem - but here's a big dose of

 

[GiantEV]

Like others have suggested, when you are ready to try again, upload a video so we can see and hear what is going on.

 

[999zip999]

Sad... I reinstalled the 3,000 and the 12fet 40amp em3ev controller. I replace the funky wht connectors with JST connectors. It tested fine with the ebike tester, both motor and controller. I tested on my motor stand it ran fine 1.75a no load on the C.A.
It was able to run down the road as it couldn't before. It now chugs on start up, but will run, fast. But low speed it chugs.
Chugs means ( it's running like a 4 cylinder car on three cylindrs ) that's the help I can give. Vedio ?? Can't down load pics. How would I vid. Sorry.
It runs fine on bench and tests fine on tester, both motor and controller.
It only has problems on start up, but think will run. Just don't want to damage. But will try.
This controller was with a em3ev d.d. motor I burned up. I guess I can now run my 9 fet as the plugs match. Tomorrow. Shit howdy it should work.
What would short on start up. Halls ? Going down for E.S. now ( meaning to the streets ).

 

[arkmundi]

I haven't yet started my MXUS build - still sitting in a box. Wish I could lend some help.

 

[999zip999]

Oh it was chugging with a different controller a 9fet lyen and that big white connector that came with 3,000 and a jumper two weeks ago. I have cut it off and now all have jst. connectors. So will try 9fet again tomorrow. Thanks guys.

 

[999zip999]

Still chugging after new jst. On the 9fet. Lyen. Made jumpers for combos, tried John's Cr. combo solver.A working combo 1.43a no load. 80v 30a.
Phase :
Controller. Hub
B. Y
G. B
Y. G

Halls
Con. Hub

B. Y
G. G
Y. B
Going to eat for now. My try different tester on both controller and hub then combo's
So thinking halls or wire harness. I mean what next.

 

[999zip999]

Still chugging after new jst. On the 9fet. Lyen. Made jumpers for combos, tried John's Cr. combo solver.A working combo 1.43a no load. 80v 30a.
Phase :
Controller. Hub
B. Y
G. B
Y. G

Halls
Con. Hub

B. Y
G. G
Y. B
Going to eat for now. My try different tester on both controller and hub then combo's
So thinking halls or wire harness. I mean what next.

 

[Samd]

I've had an EM3ev controller chug (or intermittently surge on off) when the three speed switch was at medium and it was limiting.

No chance here that you have a problem with your three speed switch logic in the conroller being blown rather than a hall issue? Or a three speed switch bad contact?

 

[999zip999]

Thanks I used 2different 3 speed switches and controllers. I have pulled 8in of cable thru the axle and resolder 8 wires. Changed the hall connector and resolder the phase 4mm bullets. I guess it comes apart in a couple days.

 

[999zip999]

Just tested with ebike tester hub motor tested fine halls and phase. Controller tested fine the 9fet.
It chugs on start up till 15mph, worse at start up but smooth's out to 24mph.

 

[999zip999]

Just tested with ebike tester hub motor tested fine halls and phase. Controller tested fine the 9fet.
It chugs on start up till 15mph, worse at start up but smooth's out to 24mph. What's a loose magnet like ?

 

[teklektik]

It chugs on start up till 15mph, worse at start up but smooth's out to 24mph.

You mentioned earlier that it only does this under load.
Perhaps this is a BMS shutdown issue.

• What is the rating on your BMS?
• Do you have a CA set up for limiting?
• What is your controller programming (exact parameter settings - not the settings you tried to achieve)?

The M3K is capable of drawing Big Current on getaway which could be slamming your BMS if your controller block time is not set to 0. During the block time the controller is essentially running unlimited so your BMS is seeing whatever current the motor wants to draw - not the controller limiting that is programmed. A CA should prevent this since it will impose its own limiting - so if you've got one, this isn't the problem...

 

[999zip999]

No bms just 24s A123 20ah cells. 8 or 10ga.

 

[teklektik]

bummer...

Still - if the motor otherwise runs fine, then it does make me wonder if this is something else (perhaps the controller) reacting in some way to high current draw. Perhaps voltage sag and LVC is set too high?

...and yes, I do understand these suggestions are getting increasingly unlikely, but since you're bucking for 'Puzzle of the Year Award'...

 

[999zip999]

Off the charger 80v sags to 78v cuttoff set 72v the battery a monster. Tried different controller and 3speed switch with different throttles. Does fill like halls, but test fine. ???

 

[Stevil_Knevil]

24s A123 cells @ 80V hot off the charger = 3.33V per cell.

3.3V is nominal voltage - ie. used up. That chugging is your pack bouncing off the controller/CA LVC.

3.6V per cell is charged. 24 X 3.6V = 86.4V ..charge yer batteries, zip!

 

[999zip999]

Full may be 3.6v on paper as you said. It comes off the charger at 82.3v I said 80v to be ez. No bms. I have build this battery 2yrs. ago its balanced to 0.050v it still has mega power. Never drops but 2v under load.
On A123 20ah pouches are pretty full 3.45v
Thought can be charge to 3.65v not very much usable time there as they live at 3.4v.and below, these after 570 charge cycles me watching every time. Thanks though
Never discharge below 3.0v as a rule.

 

[arkmundi]

..Thought can be charge to 3.65v not very much usable time there as they live at 3.4v.and below, these after 570 charge cycles me watching every time..

I've got my celllogs programmed at 3.62V, which trigger before my Smart charger detects full charge and shuts itself off. But yea, when the charger is removed, the cells will come to rest in the 3.3 to 3.4V range and remain. Nice to know that your pack is pretty much the same after your 570 charge cycles. Hope you get your problem diagnosed and fixed. Have you programmed you controller for the MXUS? I'd double check that.