MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
teslanv
1 MW
I noticed the Wiring from MXUS has just one white wire with the hall sensor group of wires. I assume that is the temp sensor wire. Do I connect that white wire with the common black (ground) wire of the halls to the CA or other display?
And if I am NOT using a CA (or the V2 CA which does not have input for temp) what is a good unit for showing motor temp?
And if I am NOT using a CA (or the V2 CA which does not have input for temp) what is a good unit for showing motor temp?
zombiess
10 MW
striker54 said:
depends, but usually 120c is the max and its good to start cutting back at 100-110c. Honestly if they are N grade magnets 80c is the max before possible damage and the curie temp for demagnetization is 310c. You'll know if you reach the currie temp because the motor will probably be smoking really bad
Some motors use H type magnets which are good for 120c, but remember these are the max temperatures before damage can start happening to them.
With that said, I've only seen/heard of a handful of cases where people damage the magnets from heat alone. Usually the glue that holds them lets loose and then interference damage happen or the wiring is over heated and an internal short happens. Most cases you get away with killing a hall sensor, seen lots of people do that on this site. Honeywell SS41's tolerate higher temps if you ever need to replace one (total PITA, done it several times when I screwed up phase wires), good for 150c. Many of the low cost motors use 85/125c rated sensors to save money.
If I was using one of these myself I'd probably play it safe and limit it to short 12kw bursts at 75v and make sure I didn't let it get much over 100C. I big clue on when to stop beating on the motor is when it starts to get soggy feeling (losing power). That means it's hot. I've beat the crap out of a 9C 2806 with 125v @ 110A in 20" bmx rim going 58mph many times (videos on youtube), but it was only good for a few pulls before it was way too hot. That motor was vented and has lived a good, but abused life and now resides on my wifes 6 FET 25mph 12s ebike and is much happier.
999zip999
100 TW
Teslanv how much is that controller ? I read you can use a ohm meter but don't have the ohm to temp. infro.
Samd
10 MW
teslanv said:
I showed the wire combos and made a table of resistance back several pages.
If you really want a simple way, just use a cheap multimeter and note the max ohm rating not to exceed.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63142&start=300#p961017
You could knock up an arduino nano for a couple of bucks to do it easily too.
1200 ohms = "How's ya mum?" at 50 celsius
1500 ohms = "It's getting warm in here" at 85 degrees
1700 ohms = "Boiling water, time for coffee" at 100 celsius
teslanv
1 MW
A Couple comments about the Phase wires and Alignment:
The Stock 2.5mm2 phase wires are marginally smaller than the 12 ga PTFE wire I use to "upgrade" my 9C clone motors. Probably not worth the effort to upgrade to 12AWG. 10AWG phase wire upgrades might be feasible with the notched shaft.
And the motor hugs the Disc brake side of the drop out quite a bit. It may be necessary to dish your rim to get the motor centered in your frame. Especially true if you will be running Moto Rims with Wide Scooter tires like myself.
The Stock 2.5mm2 phase wires are marginally smaller than the 12 ga PTFE wire I use to "upgrade" my 9C clone motors. Probably not worth the effort to upgrade to 12AWG. 10AWG phase wire upgrades might be feasible with the notched shaft.
And the motor hugs the Disc brake side of the drop out quite a bit. It may be necessary to dish your rim to get the motor centered in your frame. Especially true if you will be running Moto Rims with Wide Scooter tires like myself.
teslanv
1 MW
Samd said:
Something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/new-3-5-dig...624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4614631d60
stevc
10 W
teslanv said:
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
What are the benefits of 3T motor?
4T has enough speed and torque at e.g. 48V?
Thank you 8)
4T has enough speed and torque at e.g. 48V?
Thank you 8)
teslanv
1 MW
MXUS wouldn't make a 3-turn motor for me.BoomerChomsi said:
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
teslanv said:
Thanks, so it is only faster then 4T but more heat at same speed?
Allex
100 MW
You would only want a 3t with really small rims 20" or less. If you put a 3t in 26" it will take forever to reach top speed and it will overheat doing so.
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Thanks! 8)
So why would people like 3T winding?
So why would people like 3T winding?
Relanium
10 W
Small wheels or mid drives :wink:
Allex
100 MW
If you want a BMX bike go fast but at the same time have decent torque.
If you use 4 or 5 t on it it will be torquey but not that fast because of the small wheels.
If you use 4 or 5 t on it it will be torquey but not that fast because of the small wheels.
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Aaha thank for replies 8) 
zombiess said:
hey zombiess, i go along with you, but i was trying to bring up something different:
once a controller runs into battery limit, it begins to work like a step-down converter - right?
as to the example of the 3000W, 100V rated motor:
while we still have 100V 30A on battery side, there can be for instance 50V and 60A on the motor phases (RMS values). Or 20V and 150A when going up a steep hill.
now someone may think why does my motor overheat when i still only run 3kw?
Well, the motor was not runnnig at the rated specs.
Cromotor as another example:
rated for 5000-6000W continuous at 72V. this results in 70-80A continuous phase.
With this setting it should never overheat. ok, apart from that if someone leaves it stalled for a long time so there is no convection of air inside the motor...
John in CR
100 TW
Boomer,
The posts about the 3T being different are not factual, and a based on myth. Decrease the voltage for the same rpm and increase current for the same power and you get identical performance.
The posts about the 3T being different are not factual, and a based on myth. Decrease the voltage for the same rpm and increase current for the same power and you get identical performance.
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Aaha thanks for your reply! 8)
But will it (3T motor) heat up with using with 26" rim compare to 4T motor with also 26" rim at same voltage?
Thank you!
But will it (3T motor) heat up with using with 26" rim compare to 4T motor with also 26" rim at same voltage?
Thank you!
Allex said:
no no no
As John learned us: nominal torque, nominal rpm and motor efficiency stays the same no matter what turn count (when copper fill also is the same).
for 3T: 25% lower battery voltage and 25% more amps should result in exact the same torque and top speed.
with 25% less wire and controller resistance efficiency also should be the same.
However i think the higher voltage system will run more smooth (mainly at start up) and a bit more efficient due to higher inductance, but i'm not sure..
Allex
100 MW
Correct and true in theory and real world. But in a Practical world we never lower voltage because we only have one battery and never increase the Battery Amps because we already feed our controller with maximum what it can take. This goes for 80% of users here. So this is why we always choose a motor by our battery/controller combo.
And regarding feeding it with more amps and less voltage. In this case you probably need to encrease phase amps as well, meaing more heat on phase wires?
And regarding Copper fill, look at this Cromotor windings(first pic) and then at this 5403 winding. As you can see the last one has a lot more copper, they even had to press it so it could fit behind the covers. So which one is better?
And regarding feeding it with more amps and less voltage. In this case you probably need to encrease phase amps as well, meaing more heat on phase wires?
And regarding Copper fill, look at this Cromotor windings(first pic) and then at this 5403 winding. As you can see the last one has a lot more copper, they even had to press it so it could fit behind the covers. So which one is better?
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