My spesh Turbo S just died after making a brrrrrrrrrr type noise

[ebola]

A few days ago my turbo s made a brrrrr type noise a few times and lost all power or even engine braked.
Sounded like the tire was rubbing on the chainstays, but thats impossible.
I was thinking maybe it will go away by itself so i charged it up and it took charge.

Took it out yesterday and it was fine for a few km. Then same problem again.

Took it out later but now it wont start at all, the leds on the battery (which is also the brain of the bike), lights up.
And then it all goes black. No power no nothing, display is black.
Now it wont charge, front and rear light is just flashing like they do when the battery is fully charged.

Tried disconnecting the display but it seems to make no difference.

What is the most likely cause for this malfunction here?
Its a direct drive motor with the esc/controller inside the motor.

How should I troubleshoot this? Where to start.

 

[99t4]

spesh Turbo S-- what is that?

Mid drive, geared hubmotor, or direct drive?

What is the "brain" you are talking about?

 

[Alex12345]

A few days ago my turbo s made a brrrrr type noise a few times and lost all power or even engine braked.
Sounded like the tire was rubbing on the chainstays, but thats impossible.
I was thinking maybe it will go away by itself so i charged it up and it took charge.

Took it out yesterday and it was fine for a few km. Then same problem again.

Took it out later but now it wont start at all, the leds on the battery (which is also the brain of the bike), lights up.
And then it all goes black. No power no nothing, display is black.
Now it wont charge, front and rear light is just flashing like they do when the battery is fully charged.

Tried disconnecting the display but it seems to make no difference.

What is the most likely cause for this malfunction here?
Its a direct drive motor with the esc/controller inside the motor.

How should I troubleshoot this? Where to start.

I am guessing you are talking about Specialized Turbo S. Maybe you could provide a model year, who knows it might be important. I'm not personally familiar with this bike, and not sure how to best debug a setup where the controller is in the motor and to open the motor you have to unlace the hub...

There is a topic about this or similar bike here Components identification and Specialized Turbo 2015 repair
See if anything helps there and perhaps someone else with more knowledge could chime in

 

[Apartunis]

Hmm, now you get to see how much your Specialized dealer cares about you and your bike. My guess is they try to convince you of the wisdom of buying another one of the same thing that let you down.

 

[E-HP]

Those bike are designed to be repaired very easily. The hardest step is opening your wallet, but it will be easier the next time it breaks, since you’ll have the experience under your belt. If you’re married, then you’re probably already an expert.

 

[ebola]

I'm not planning going to specialized since I'm fairly certain they have no idea how it works. And since I got the bike for free I dont want to spend much money on it either. I read all the threads about this bike from back in the day. The solution was always to swap out components until the problem went away. Or the end user got a new bike or was recommended to get another model.

Very few problems were actually solved at all. I mean scary few of them. And thats not how I do things.
Also this models was last produced in 2016, mine is a 2016. No parts are available.

If this ends up costing more than 100€, I'm gonna chop this frame up and scrap the bike. Basically the frame is too stiff/heavy/uncomfortable for me to spend any kind of money or serious time/effort on it, its just a shit frame, what can I say.

That money and time would be better spent on putting that motor on a completely different frame. A good one. With that being said, I will try to fix it but there is a limit here.

---------------

Right now I have opened the battery pack. Can't really disassemble it as much as I want since I have no idea how its actually held together... but I cant see any blown components on the 2 pcbs if I shine a light in there. And no sign of corrosion/water damage.

The 4 leds on the battery indicate "no contact" with the motor and also the display. I find it hard to believe that both of those components would go bad at the exactly the same time. Also now when I actually have all of this semi disassembled if I plug in the battery all 4 leds indicate no problem.

So to me this looks like a connector failure somehow, or a cable, or something mechanical that makes to connector not work as supposed.

Also some background: This is an extremely stiff and heavy frame and it has absolutely no vibration dampening ability at all. Its like riding on a concrete brick. Everything vibrates like hell and everything that can rattle will rattle. Including the battery in the battery bay. So the main suspect here is the battery bay, its connector and everything around that.

I will start measuring conductivity today and see what I can find. But since the connector looks like it does. We have 2 pins that goes in 2 holes and its supposed to be some kind of friction fit there I suppose. Then the 4 other pins. Also the connector can move since its held up by a rubber ring, and its also magnetic. What could possibly go wrong here?? Potentially quite a lot that may not be obvious I'd say.