My Super73 upgrade project

[Excursi0n_AUS]

Hi folks,

Super keen "no pun intended" to get some help from you guys and gals.
I am new to the forum so I hope this is the right section to get started.

I have been doing some minor mods to my Super73 because, ya know... COVID.
I know from the start that its probably better to just buy another bike but I love the tinkering and learning experience so please try to avoid the advice "just buy a different one".

I am a level 3 noob when it comes to this stuff and everything is self taught so be gentle.

I have added an additional 17aH battery
Front suspension forks
New crank assembly
New Chain
New Handlebars
Custom seat
New decals and stickers
New duel headlights (I think I shorted the light circuit in the controller when connecting them) They remain on 100% of the time, along now with the rear light. Only disconnecting the battery turns them off. Would like to fix this but not a priority.

To get started I would love to know what the motor is actually capable of?
Currently I have got it up to 35kph is that as much as I will get from a 48v battery? Any advice on testing?
I hear many people with 48v bikes going way faster but, as I said, noob here.
It says 250w on the outside it but I have a feelings its just a compliance sticker....
I replaced the throttle display with a newer unlocked version that gets me up to 36.5kph boost for a few secs and drops to 35kph constant.
If I test with the wheel lifted it will do 41kph boost and 36kph constant.
I popped up a few pics of the motor if it helps a pro identify it.

I get the impression that the controller is where the real magic seems to happen so perhaps all I need is a new controller?
If that is the case how do I find a compatible one with all my existing bits and bobs?
I popped up a picture of the current controller spec.
Seems the only "odd" thing about this is the "throttle adjustment voltage"... Finding it hard to get one that matches

Many online sellers refer to "speed set" I assume "throttle adjustment voltage" and "speed set" are the same thing. Would love if someone could confirm that. I also think this is a SINEWAVE controller, would be good if someone could confirm that too.

I have soooo many questions to ask hopefully this start isn't to daft.
Thanks in advance!

 

[markz]

You are absolutely wrong that the sticker is a compliance sticker, no no its a sales and marketing sticker for the folks who are scared of 251W. In some cases it can be a 500W or 1000W motor, listed as 250W to get more sales in the UK or Australia. When stickers are off, no one can tell the difference between a 250W motor or a 1000W motor and they sure as heck aint going to be doing a dyno on the side of the road to figure out what the wattage rating of your ebike is. Ride with courtesy and respect and its a non issue. I don't want to seem to be mean, its just the facts.

Motors have internal wires called windings which is a certain Turn Count which gives you an rpm/v rating. You could have a super fast 3T motor, or a super slow 8T motor. They are both exactly the same motor, one goes slower then the other for the same voltage. Say 36V on both, 8T slower, 3T faster. Go 48V on 8T
CAN/MIGHT/MAY give you same power and speed as 36V on 3T.

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https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

https://ebikes.ca/tools/trip-simulator.html

https://ebikes.ca/learn/hub-motors.html

https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html

 

[Voltron]

Speed set usually is the same. The range is for the controller... It's a safety thing. That one wants 1.2v before it comes on, so a tiny trickle of leakage current thru a throttle doesn't set it off. Then more than 4.4v shuts it down, in case something shorts to the throttle and pumps voltage thru it for example.
I had a problem with that on one controller that was cutting off at full throttle and was annoying to track down why... Turns the controller throttle high voltage cutoff was a little low, and the Hall sensor in the throttle was letting just a little too much thru at full twist.

 

[Voltron]

So another controller didn't need to exactly match... It could be 1.1v to 4.5v for example, and it wouldn't matter.
Usually the only way to tell about using a more powerful controller is by melting the motor. Then you get a bigger one... And then you melt the connections. You upgrade those, then melt your battery... Those were my steps anyway. Once you do all that though it's smooth sailing

The battery voltage is the main thing you can change at home controlling a motors top speed. But then you need a controller usually that the voltage cutoff matches the new higher voltage battery. Some modern controllers have a thing called flux weakening that can get more speed out of the same voltage battery that you already have.

 

[Excursi0n_AUS]

Many thanks for the responses...

I understand abut the sales sticker stuff, I was really just being polite. I am 100% with you markz and no offence taken at all. Would be giving you a cheers to that

Thank you Voltron for clearing up the whole speed set/TAV thing, I will not concern myself with getting a 100% match when looking at replacement controllers.

My BMS is rated for 40a so I assume this is the hard limit for the system.
Could someone pop up a suggested controller replacement that will possibly get me a little more from the motor so I can use it as a starting point?

Many thanks,
Exc

 

[MadRhino]

You might get a slight improvement of top speed with a more powerful controller, when climbing especially. Yet, top speed is related to voltage, so you’d need a different battery in order to get your bike going significantly faster with that motor. Higher power only improves speed when you are slowed down by some resistance, that could be climbing, heavy load, front wind...

 

[neptronix]

You could go another route and replace your motor with one that has a higher RPM per volt, as well as higher power handling capability, and then upgrade your controller to a unit capable of sustaining 30-40A or more continuously.

This would work if your battery can supply the added current.

If you're willing to throw some efficiency away, just adding another controller which has a phase advance feature can get you ~20% more speed from the battery you have. And you should have the current capability to push that extra speed, given the 17ah battery.