Nanjing far driver controllers

[amberwolf]

Sounds like the new controller is sending many many more pulses per wheel rotation than the old one, so many that the display is overwhelmed and just stops counting them beyond a certain point. But it could be the wrong voltage, or it could be the input is damaged from too high a voltage, etc.


Without knowing what signal the controller you have now is sending, vs what the device requires, both in voltage and frequency, it's going to be tough to fix the problem other than by experimentation.

If you don't have a multimeter or oscilloscope to test the new controller's existing signal, the best you can do is use the setup software for it to set it up to provide the same kind of signal the previous controller did. (same number of pulses per wheel rotation, same voltage)

If you don't know what that is, you can check with Kelly to see what that specific model is designed to output on the specific wire you used for speedometer output. Then use the new controller's setup software to change it's output to match that, on the wire that outputs the right voltage for the display (the same voltage that the Kelly did).

If you cannot change the settings in the new controller, you would have to change them in the display per section 6 of that linked manual, if it will adjust far enough.

If not, then you would have to build an external bit of electronics to convert the signal from the controller to match the needs of the display. This is unlikely to be necessary, but if it is, it's pretty simple electronics, though it would require knowing what is being output vs what is required.

If none of those are possible, then you'd need either a different source for the speedometer signal (externally mounted sensor with magnet on wheel, etc), or a different speedometer display, or a different controller that is compatible with the speedometer display.

This is the only documentation I was able to find on the CT-22 display.

http://www.siaecosys.com/upfile/201908/2019082255434357.pdf

As I mentioned earlier this display was working with a Kelly 72300 controller.

When connecting it to my fardriver 96530. It will display 6 then 18 by barely moving the wheel. But when I spin the wheel up it remains on 18. I’m not sure what signal the fardriver is sending.

 

[E-Andreas]

Hi,

I just got me ND721200B (Encoder) controller together with a QS180.
The manual is soooo bad when i comes to the electrical diagram.
Has anybody some good documentation?
I am looking for which pins are for low voltage (12V or 5V) and which one need battery voltage.

Is it possible that internally all GNDs (5V, 12V, Battery V) are shared?
Do i need to supply the 12V from my DC/DC converter?
Normally i am used to diagrams like the one in my attachment where i exactly know whats needed.

I have seen depending on where you buy the controller the colors and connectors are different or functions not connected.
Have the pins on the controller always the same function and position or is it depending on the firmware?

If i get some support and info from the community I could make a electrical schematic that would be understood by everyone, including the explaination of the different functions. I guess i need some part of it anyway to get it street legal in a european test house.

one last question:
I have a old 48Volt battery, can i use this battery eventhoug the controller is for 72V?
It would only for testing function on the bench.

Thanks for your support
Regards
Andreas

 

[Jton]

Is anyone having issues connecting their controller to the Far Driver iOS app since the 2.2.2 update from yesterday 8/15? I pushed update all from the app store and didn’t realized this was in it.

 

[pwd]

Do you get a correct signal output from the wires on the Fardriver?

If so, then the problem is in the speedometer unit you're using. To help with that, we'd need details on that unit, including what kind of signal it expects to get.

Some of them work on a battery-voltage level signal that comes indirectly from the motor phases, and some of them work on a 5v level, or a 12v level. If the device used a low-voltage input, then if the output from the controller was a battery-level votlage, it could have blown up the device's input, and you'd need to replace the device (it's probably not repairable, though it could be possible if it has a buffer between input and MCU).

Has anyone got a generic display working on a Fardriver? I'm using a Fardriver controller and have tried all three (0-Pulse, 1-Analog, 2-Isolated Pulse) speedometer modes on both analog (purple) and line speed (light blue) connections from the controller.
When I spin the motor up, the speed stays at 0 km/h

Fardriver issues aside... I've just had a look at the old square wave controller that this display was previously used on and it appears to tap into one of the motor phase lines. Since the Fardriver is NOT a squarewave controller; could this be why it still shows nothing when I connect the powered speedometer to a phase line?

I've found out some more info on the speedometer:



the speed sensor was originally attached to "Hall" and the speed wasn't changing. I've just moved the speed sensor to the top pad, which translated to "Speed" and tried making a connection directly to a phase; the speed did change on the display but didn't seem very accurate.

When connected to the controller's speed output again but on the top "Speed pad", I'm getting a constant number on the speedometer of about 4/km and it drops down to 3km/h when I twist the throttle.

The controller speed output line is measuring 14.3V at 0rpm and decreases as I twist the throttle. I saw it go as low at 8.0V when the motor got up to speed.

 

[E-Andreas]

I am getting crazy trying to connect via bluetooth and iPhone.
Can connect the bluetooth (in the app via scann) but it looks like i can´t connect to the controller.
It always shows "BLE connected, Controller connecting...".
Does anybody know how to solve this.

Model is also wrong, should be ND721200B

thanks
Andreas

 

[amberwolf]

I've found out some more info on the speedometer:
IMG_20220815_070601013.jpg
IMG_20220818_083109844_HDR.jpg

the speed sensor was originally attached to "Hall" and the speed wasn't changing. I've just moved the speed sensor to the top pad, which translated to "Speed" and tried making a connection directly to a phase; the speed did change on the display but didn't seem very accurate.

When connected to the controller's speed output again but on the top "Speed pad", I'm getting a constant number on the speedometer of about 4/km and it drops down to 3km/h when I twist the throttle.

The controller speed output line is measuring 14.3V at 0rpm and decreases as I twist the throttle. I saw it go as low at 8.0V when the motor got up to speed.

Is this a constant voltage, or pulses? If it is a constant voltage, then it is unlikely to be compatible with your display; it appears to be expecting pulses.

Even if it is not a constant voltage, and is pulses, it may have damaged the hall input of the display, if that is only setup to accept 5v maximum input.

the phase-speed monitoring may not be accurate because of noise from the controller itself driving the motor, particularly at higher loading of the motor, and at slower speeds.

 

[Dui ni shuo de dui]

I am getting crazy trying to connect via bluetooth and iPhone.
Can connect the bluetooth (in the app via scann) but it looks like i can´t connect to the controller.
It always shows "BLE connected, Controller connecting...".
Does anybody know how to solve this.

Model is also wrong, should be ND721200B

thanks
Andreas

Not sure this applies to you as well, but last time I had this issue I had to change for an other, older version of the bluetooth dongle.

 

[E-Andreas]

Thanks, just ordered the USB TTL Adapter.

Any ordinary TTL-USB adapter, with 3.3V option, will do the job.
You can use models with PL2303 chipset too...

I ordered the adapter you mentioned because I can´t get the Bluetooth working. How do i make sure that i has 3,3v.
I don´t see any jumper on it.

thanks
Andreas

 

[E-Andreas]

I am getting crazy trying to connect via bluetooth and iPhone.
Can connect the bluetooth (in the app via scann) but it looks like i can´t connect to the controller.
It always shows "BLE connected, Controller connecting...".
Does anybody know how to solve this.

Model is also wrong, should be ND721200B

thanks
Andreas

Not sure this applies to you as well, but last time I had this issue I had to change for an other, older version of the bluetooth dongle.

I guess i am a little crazy.
I told them there are maybe different versions of the bluetooth dongle. Heck, I even sent them screenshots of your post. The only thing that i got is another version of the Android app.-> No luck there.

 

[philipk2003]

Hi All,

I have spend the past two days reading all 13 pages of this post. Thank you everyone for your input and expertise! I am getting ready to do my build (I have in my possession a 96850 controller, a 12000w hub motor, 96v90ah battery, etc..). I have a simple question that I didn't see a clear answer for.

1) How do you wire the two wire plug labeled Park/Cruise (XH - pin 17) and (Boost - Pin 6)? Do you jump the two wires together (like the Reverse wires)?

2) I understand what Cruise should do, but what exactly is "Park"?

Thanks!!!

 

[h0tsauce]

2) I understand what Cruise should do, but what exactly is "Park"?

Barely more than a guess, but I would imagine that it keeps the wheel from moving when the motorcycle is parked. Otherwise it's effectively in neutral and can roll away.

 

[j bjork]

I am getting crazy trying to connect via bluetooth and iPhone.
Can connect the bluetooth (in the app via scann) but it looks like i can´t connect to the controller.
It always shows "BLE connected, Controller connecting...".
Does anybody know how to solve this.

Model is also wrong, should be ND721200B

thanks
Andreas

Not sure this applies to you as well, but last time I had this issue I had to change for an other, older version of the bluetooth dongle.

I guess i am a little crazy.
I told them there are maybe different versions of the bluetooth dongle. Heck, I even sent them screenshots of your post. The only thing that i got is another version of the Android app.-> No luck there.

Look here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003179976848.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1875b9f4PP6pGS&algo_pvid=2e2a7411-7de7-46f5-bb8e-21bf28db0c3f&algo_exp_id=2e2a7411-7de7-46f5-bb8e-21bf28db0c3f-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000024530531753%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%2137.72%2134.7%21%21%21%21%21%402100bdf016614034115815934ea54b%2112000024530531753%21sea&curPageLogUid=PY7DabxKWm1d

Copied from the link:
NOTE:
Controller bluetooth update from 2022,
Before order, please check your controller label carefully, and choose correct type.

New Version: for controller label with "B10/A20/H10"
Old Version: for controller lable with "XY" , else.

 

[E-Andreas]

I am getting crazy trying to connect via bluetooth and iPhone.
Can connect the bluetooth (in the app via scann) but it looks like i can´t connect to the controller.
It always shows "BLE connected, Controller connecting...".
Does anybody know how to solve this.

Model is also wrong, should be ND721200B

thanks
Andreas

Not sure this applies to you as well, but last time I had this issue I had to change for an other, older version of the bluetooth dongle.

I guess i am a little crazy.
I told them there are maybe different versions of the bluetooth dongle. Heck, I even sent them screenshots of your post. The only thing that i got is another version of the Android app.-> No luck there.

Look here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003179976848.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1875b9f4PP6pGS&algo_pvid=2e2a7411-7de7-46f5-bb8e-21bf28db0c3f&algo_exp_id=2e2a7411-7de7-46f5-bb8e-21bf28db0c3f-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000024530531753%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%2137.72%2134.7%21%21%21%21%21%402100bdf016614034115815934ea54b%2112000024530531753%21sea&curPageLogUid=PY7DabxKWm1d

Copied from the link:
NOTE:
Controller bluetooth update from 2022,
Before order, please check your controller label carefully, and choose correct type.

New Version: for controller label with "B10/A20/H10"
Old Version: for controller lable with "XY" , else.

Thanks!! This info is perfect. Now I can send them a link to their own shop site.

Regards
Andreas

 

[pwd]

I've found out some more info on the speedometer:
IMG_20220815_070601013.jpg
IMG_20220818_083109844_HDR.jpg

the speed sensor was originally attached to "Hall" and the speed wasn't changing. I've just moved the speed sensor to the top pad, which translated to "Speed" and tried making a connection directly to a phase; the speed did change on the display but didn't seem very accurate.

When connected to the controller's speed output again but on the top "Speed pad", I'm getting a constant number on the speedometer of about 4/km and it drops down to 3km/h when I twist the throttle.

The controller speed output line is measuring 14.3V at 0rpm and decreases as I twist the throttle. I saw it go as low at 8.0V when the motor got up to speed.

Is this a constant voltage, or pulses? If it is a constant voltage, then it is unlikely to be compatible with your display; it appears to be expecting pulses.

Even if it is not a constant voltage, and is pulses, it may have damaged the hall input of the display, if that is only setup to accept 5v maximum input.

the phase-speed monitoring may not be accurate because of noise from the controller itself driving the motor, particularly at higher loading of the motor, and at slower speeds.

According it my multimeter set to DC; the voltage from the speed "ouput" on the controller seems constant although varies depending on the rpm of the motor. I can't seem to find much info on what kind of signal the Fardriver controller is outputting and the settings in the software don't seem to change the behavior.

 

[pwd]

Fardriver controller ND 84530 just quit on me.

Today I went to move the bike and it stopped on me with this error.
13. MOSFET high side error



Any suggestions?

 

[JRP3]

Manual says "The upper bridge of the controller is damaged" for "13 Mosfett Upper" error.

 

[pwd]

Hmm, thanks for looking that up in the manual. I'm also getting the 13 beeps in addition to the error message so it looking like the controller is no good/damaged now.

 

[JRP3]

Have you tried to contact the seller/manufacturer?

 

[amberwolf]

I've found out some more info on the speedometer:
IMG_20220815_070601013.jpg
IMG_20220818_083109844_HDR.jpg

the speed sensor was originally attached to "Hall" and the speed wasn't changing. I've just moved the speed sensor to the top pad, which translated to "Speed" and tried making a connection directly to a phase; the speed did change on the display but didn't seem very accurate.

When connected to the controller's speed output again but on the top "Speed pad", I'm getting a constant number on the speedometer of about 4/km and it drops down to 3km/h when I twist the throttle.

The controller speed output line is measuring 14.3V at 0rpm and decreases as I twist the throttle. I saw it go as low at 8.0V when the motor got up to speed.

Is this a constant voltage, or pulses? If it is a constant voltage, then it is unlikely to be compatible with your display; it appears to be expecting pulses.

Even if it is not a constant voltage, and is pulses, it may have damaged the hall input of the display, if that is only setup to accept 5v maximum input.

the phase-speed monitoring may not be accurate because of noise from the controller itself driving the motor, particularly at higher loading of the motor, and at slower speeds.

According it my multimeter set to DC; the voltage from the speed "ouput" on the controller seems constant although varies depending on the rpm of the motor. I can't seem to find much info on what kind of signal the Fardriver controller is outputting and the settings in the software don't seem to change the behavior.

If even at a very slow motor speed (like hand-rotating the wheel) the speed signal is a constant level voltage rather than pulses, then according to the info previously posted for your display, it will not recognize that as a speed signal because it is expecting pulses.

If the voltage of the constant level varies with speed, your display would need to have an input that recognizes that and is calibrated (or calibratable) for how many volts per RPM there are, so it could interpret this and display it as a speed. If it can't do this, then a signal like this won't work with it.

You should be able to use an external speedometer sensor (like from a bike computer, etc) to generate a compatible signal, but if the voltage of the controller output ever went higher than the display's input can tolerate (which seems likely given the voltages stated) the display input may have failed, and will never correctly (or at all) read any input to it regardless of type, unless it is repaired. I don't know what it's input voltage limit is, but it wouldn't be unusual for that to be 5v only, for the hall input line. It might be up to 12v, but probably not beyond that; what it will actually tolerate depends on the specific design and components used on the input.

 

[pwd]

Have you tried to contact the seller/manufacturer?

Yes, I have contacted the seller. I'm awaiting a reply (12 hour time difference as well). Will update with their response.

 

[j bjork]

You can always measure to confirm the fault code in the meantime.
I suppose it means you have a short between the positive input and one of the outputs, so I would measure resistance between + and U, V, W. (I would measure - to U, V, W too)
If you have a short there you can confirm that the problem is in the controller.

 

[pwd]

Thanks j bjork,

I have disconnected the motor phase leads from the controller and confirmed that U has continuity/short to B+ and B-. That is also what the seller has asked me to check. Look like it's dead for sure.

 

[marsrover]

Well, I've got mine working somewhat. However there's a few issues people should really know about before buying one of these. Issues that would have made me buy something else.

1. Temperature sensor support. There are only presets, PTC, NTC230K, KTY84-130, Cacu?. If you have any of these sensors, good job things will be fine for you. I however use the KTY83-122 as that is the one that QS is using on nearly every single motor at the moment. A good controller would allow you to set an offset value so that any temp sensor could be used. But not fardriver. And to rub salt in the wound the most current android app 2.1.0 has kty83-122, kty84-122, and ntc100k as options, however selecting them does absolutely nothing.

So I email support. They told me to select "0- none" for temp sensor. A quick way to burn up a $1500 motor for sure. Can't have a problem with a feature if you just disable the feature

2. Regen. As I use a hub motor it's important regen can smoothly work down to about 20 rpm. My previous controller allowed you to select the RPM regen would disable so you can still waddle or push your bike without it engaging. Well fardriver decided 100rpm was a suitable speed to instantly stop regen and no you can't change that value. For me that means good strong braking till 9mph then instant coasting. Very lurching experience, and unsettling as at lower speeds you don't know if grabbing the brake will make regen activate or you've got to grab more to get mechanical brakes going.

So I email support about this too. They tell me to turn off regen entirely. Can't have a problem with a feature if you just disable the feature

3. Voltage cutoffs. Despite how the app may appear, many values can NOT be changed. High voltage cutoff is one of them. This is important as regen shouldn't happen on a full battery, if the user is using a BMS and high cell cuttoff get's triggered. Well that's a quick way to spike voltage in the controller and fry something. RIP sabvoton 96120 #1.
Ok fine, so maybe low voltage cutoff can be changed? Yes, but only the cutoff value, the recover (turn back on) voltage is fixed. Depending on your battery voltage this could pose a problem. Many values in the app are like this, if the app only showed what values could actually be changed. No-one would buy this.

I would email support, but I suspect I know what the answer to this one would be.

4. App differences. Version 1.3.7 found on the siaecosys website has values such as "temperature Coeff" that I can only assume adjusts the temp sensor calibration (but it's just displayed, you can't modify it). This has been since removed. MOE protection can be changed in 1.3.7 and 2.0.9, however 2.1.0 now says I need to "please use new BLE Module". Only there is no new ble module, and this is hardcoded and appears even when not connected to the controller.

Speaking of 2.0.9, on September 1st 2021 the app broke for literally everyone and gave a message "app expired, please download latest app". It sounds crazy but changing the date on your phone made it work again. So this is once again some hardcoded stuff that makes the app worse. And makes me worry that future versions of the app will continue to take away features. What happens if we don't get an update? Well I changed the date on my phone and found out.

On January 1st 2023 app version 2.1.0 is also going to "expire". Nanjang if you are reading this, changing the date to further out is NOT the solution. Remove the date check entirely, there is literally 0 reason for it to be there. Other than disabling the modification of "MOE protection" value. I see 0 changes to the app besides the date check being pushed further out.

This means between june 2021 (version 2.0.9) and september 2021 (version 2.1.0) there were ZERO improvements or tweaks to the app. I can only assume development has stopped and the lack of features I've complained about in this post will never be addressed. Consider this controller abandoned, but still in production.

Bottom line is this motor driver moves my motorcycle forward, it's got lots of power, and does control the motor well (except super low speed tourqe, kinda lacking there, assuming I need more tune time). The handling of every other basic feature such as regen and voltage cutoff values is absolute dogwater and nanjang should be ashamed of themselves for releasing such a half baked app while claiming the controller has features it just doesn't. If I could time travel back to last month when I bought this, I would slap myself and get a 3shul proper VESC based controller. At least then I'd know the vesc experience is properly feature filled, and has developers that actually respond to customer feedback.

4/10, would not buy again.

 

[JRP3]

That's discouraging.

 

[jskounakis]

If I could time travel back to last month when I bought this, I would slap myself and get a 3shul proper VESC based controller. At least then I'd know the vesc experience is properly feature filled, and has developers that actually respond to customer feedback.

4/10, would not buy again.

Was thinking about getting a far-driver, heard really good stuff. Well, seems like Chinese strikes again. Very informative review.
Regarding VESC based controller, I see you are referring to HESC. Do you think it's good for 30-40kW? Should I shoot for it? Other option is ASI BAC8000 but it's completely software locked.