Need help with new controller

JohnnyReb

10 mW
Joined
Aug 25, 2023
Messages
28
Location
NorCal
Fresh 1000w motor core

The replacement controller had different wiring than the original, no instructions. Controller burnt up attempting to configure. Motor remains untouched.

It was suggested to me to use this controller (photo).

I have gone through every phase wire configuration possible. The phase wiring at the bottom right of the flow chart (photo / Yellow-blue, green-yellow, blue-green) gives me smooth rotation. However, half the time upon hooking the controller up, picking up the rear wheel and throttling it, it seems to quickly switch "modes" and sets it there. So if i try to put a load on the motor it's got no torque.

The ebike originally came with an lcd screen/selector switch which i have removed from the bike but still have.

I would rather not use any lcd screen/selector nonsense if at all possible. Wouldn't think the screen that came with the bike would run properly with this controller anyway.

Can anyone help me wire this thing up?
 

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That controller doesn't support a display.

It has a "self learn" mode. The way that works is to connect the phase and Hall wires however you like, then connect the self-learn wire to ground and touch the throttle. If it runs smoothly in the right direction, unplug the self-learn wire and you're done. If not, unplug it and then try again. Repeat until you get the combination that does what you want.

To run the controller, you only need power, throttle, and motor connections. Plug in the battery last, after the motor.

Also, that bike is godawful and you should aspire to better than that. It if not, at least get pictures of yourself on it, so that people you know can get a good laugh in a few years.

61zTmUYSH1L._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg
 
Haha i never noticed the little casters for rear wheels in that movie.

First off, thank you kindly. I had spent months on another thread attempting to get the help you just gave me. Again, i thank you.

Secondly... Sir, you have forgotten yourself! My ebike is the 🐝's knees when she's all buttoned up. She needs a different rear shock, though. I'll also remove the derailleur assembly and shorten the chain to be fixed on the smallest sprocket.

Now imma trying to figure out how to wire my lights. Low level light wires make sense, gives me low level rear light. Move either lead to the high level lights wire and i get no light at all.
 
Unplug everything. Yes everything but throttle, battery, controller and motor. Tell Chalo if it was a self-learning wire why didn't I know about it ?
We asked about the self learning wire before and you didn't mention anything that you had it I thought it was too wires you plug together now Chalo says it's just one wire that needs to touch ground.
I never had a controller with a self-learning wire as all mine are high voltage, high wattage
 
Usually the 2 white wires you connect together, and it automatically spins the wheel. If the wheel is spinning in the right direction unplug and ride. If its spinning in the wrong direction you flick the throttle and the motor spins the other way. If its the correct way you unplug the white wires.

I have literally ridden home on only the learn function as I lost throttle response.

If you are having myserious problems of any sort, what I do is unplug everything and let it be unplugged for a night.
Then go over everything systematically, sometimes it worth taking a step back and thinking about something else, then come back to the problem, you get a new perspective. Cheap connectors you name the gammet.
 
Who knows if the motor hasn't lost a hall sensor ?
Test it know what's going on then you can connect the different parts together.

Ebike tester 9 to $15. Get one that's printed in English on it or at least get one that has an instruction manual in paper or on their website in English.
This will test your throttle your controller and your motor. They say there's a way to test your call and face connections but that's over my pay grade.
Here's an example of what they look like it's best to have your all plugs and throttle plug and Play if you're lucky would be nice to have the face painted in English and be nice to have the directions painted in English.
That's just an example find the correct one English and directions of operation

 
My apologies about not remembering when i was asked about the learning wire the first time. Yall are good people here. I have no intent to be rude to anyone. Especially those that help me. Again, my apologies.

The motor/bike runs well now. Much zippier off the start. Same top speed/power.

I do need to borrow my neighbors multimeter to figure out whats up with this horn/headlight switch. Cooked the wires pretty decently trying to figure it out with a full batt.

Looks like i'll prolly have to do my own light wiring. The low light level wires give low light for the tail light when the lights are on. However for the headlight and brake light, i may have have to wire it to the power terminals on the controller. I dnt thnk the high light lever wire has power.
 
The low-level and high-level wires are for brakes, not your lights. The controller doesn't look like it has a connection to control the lights. The lights may run off of battery voltage, or if they are motorcycle lights, you may need to step the battery voltage down to 12V to make it work. If you fried the wires, I wouldn't be surprised if the lights are no longer functional because you connected them to too high a voltage. You can buy a 48V to 12V buck converter on Amazon pretty cheap.
 
I have been mucking about with a high-power USB outlet on battery packs to support the oddly 20w pull that most of the kit systems want (short version of this, I have tried 8 dif lighting kits that were "USB" powered, all pulled enough power to kick on the safety circuit on the board I am using) one that runs on native power? yes please.

Oh, and since Amazon has run dry on these, I just ordered from: Home site?
 
19.99 without DC/DC converter, But with turn signals. ?
I read the fine print it said 52 volt to 90 volt= or to 48v
So it runs on somewhere around a 48v battery around as is needed for a 52v battery. What ?
Hard to read the small print from a Chinese seller or reseller. ???
I like it without their converter.
 
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Oh koolsville. I like my headlight a lot. Breaklight is fine, just need to hook it all up. Dont need signals/horn. The horn is built jnto the light of course.
 
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