New Bafang Crank-Drives

[speedmd]

Hi tomjasz

I am not sure when the first one was made. I got it with the c950 display back in November. I see serial numbers only. The new ones were made in mid - late June according to GEB. I replaced the c950 with the c961 also to get the latest setup. If there is a date code advise, and I will take a look and post.

 

[tomjasz]

Is perhaps the serial the date code as on the motor?

 

[jateureka]

I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?

Did you check they both have the same tooth count chainwheel? Some come with a 46T and some come with a 48T.

 

[jateureka]

FYI I couldn't use my BBT-9 tool for the lock ring on my BBS02 500w unit - the outside of the spanner touched the motor housing so the tool couldn't slide onto the lock ring - I had to use an open ended BB tool - like this one

I used the BBT-9 on two installs and it was OK but not ideal, as amiganfan2003 noted.
Then I found & bought the Bike Hand YC-29BB, which is a deep socket and allows you to use a torque wrench to torque the outer lock nut to the specified 25-30Nm range.

 

[tomjasz]

I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?

Did you check they both have the same tooth count chainwheel? Some come with a 46T and some come with a 48T.

My poor writing strikes again. Same bike two batteries produce differing performance results. But both bikes have identical gearing. I think i have the answer. No problem just different batteries and peformance. Since i'm a slowpoke it's more curiosity than complaint.

 

[Electric Junk]

I'm having issues with my crank bolts coming loose.

The first 30 mile ride it came loose, not enough to wobble just need to tighten at the end. The i went on a few more rides and after needed to be torqued slightly.

I went for another ride today and it came loose in the first 20 minutes enough to wobble. I tightened it again and made it another mile and it needed to tighten it again, this time i really cranked on it and the bolt stopped much tighter than usual.

Anyway, tonight i degreased and put red loctite on it.

If i find it really messed up i'm going to use 4 shims out of soda can aluminum to shim the taper.

 

[dirkdiggler]

My cranks won't come off. I've had to undo the bolt and ride for a few hours to get the left crank out. The right took a bunch of work to remove. My cranks are now stripped from the soft metal after trying to remove them using a crank puller. I'd love to switch the cranks out with something higher quality, but don't think the effort is worth it.

Is it just the left crank that loosens?

 

[0utrider]

I'll be back to ask questions on a BBS02 install. Ordered the kit and I'm eager to join the "8"fun with the rest of you.
I'm thinking a thread lock purchase is imminent.

 

[Electric Junk]

My cranks won't come off. I've had to undo the bolt and ride for a few hours to get the left crank out. The right took a bunch of work to remove. My cranks are now stripped from the soft metal after trying to remove them using a crank puller. I'd love to switch the cranks out with something higher quality, but don't think the effort is worth it.

Is it just the left crank that loosens?

It's my drive side right now but i gave the same treatment to the left just in case.

That's crazy you stripped the crank arm, always make sure it's threaded on at least 5 turns before trying to pull.

It's not worth it to switch, would you rather replace the arm or the BB?

 

[douglashart]

I cant seem to find the spider adapter for the bafang for sale . can anyone help?

 

[Arvicola Terrestris]

Time and Distance without problems:

Been running a BBS02 48v 750W for three month and 2500Km.
Serial nr. is: 1402200287 with new model crank nuts. It sucks 25A at wide open throttle.
It's mounted on an Christiania heavy duty cargo trike with a total weight of 200Kg (me+bike+avg. cargo) and I run it hard, even off-road.

I replaced the chain after 2000Km (it was lengthened by 1%), a stainless KMC S10 chain for a better heavy duty KMC Z510HX.

I use it every day, for work, school, kindergarten, holidays.... I don't have a car.
Some days I ride over 80Km.
I've tried heavy rain for several days on a 500Km tour with tent.
I've done off road uphill with cargo.
I've done high speed riding at 40km/h for 1,5 hours (800-1250W continuously) with cargo (well it's high speed for this bike ).
I have also changed all four SKF bearings in my front wheels, because of the heavy load (speed+heavy load = hard on everything).
Used at high cadence I have very good Wh/km numbers at 10-14 Wh/km
The torque is lovely high, doing off-road I have problems getting enough traction and have to lean back to get more weight on the back wheel.
I use the throttle mostly for city acceleration and steep hills.

I would argue that I have used this motor several times harder then a normal person would. And it's still so quite that people that ride besides me in normal city traffic don't hear it.

This is my third e-bike and by far the best.

/Philip

 

[tumich]

I cant seem to find the spider adapter for the bafang for sale . can anyone help?

I tried found but auctions on eBay.com was ended :/

 

[Supertux1]

I would argue that I have used this motor several times harder then a normal person would.

Me too:

[youtube]5zkaDKd9-MY[/youtube]

 

[jateureka]

My cranks won't come off. I've had to undo the bolt and ride for a few hours to get the left crank out. The right took a bunch of work to remove. My cranks are now stripped from the soft metal after trying to remove them using a crank puller. I'd love to switch the cranks out with something higher quality, but don't think the effort is worth it.

Is it just the left crank that loosens?

If the cranks came loose and were riden on then the square taper is likely damaged.
You could try fitting cranks from another mid drive like Aseako http://www.proelectricbikes.com.au/crank-set/

 

[amigafan2003]

I cant seem to find the spider adapter for the bafang for sale . can anyone help?

I tried found but auctions on eBay.com was ended :/

I've got one of these surplass to requirements.

What's your location?

 

[beazee]

Is it just the left crank that loosens?

Noticed that too. Have to re-tighten it every 2-3 weeks

 

[Supertux1]

I noticed that my left crank was always loose and this was because the anodizing / paint on the crank/spindle interface prevents the crank from being fully pressed on.

I realized this when measuring the distance from the crank to the chainstay and that it would get shorter and shorter as I tightened the screw. Just keep tightening it with a tool that gives you a lot of leverage and it will overcome this friction, move closer to the frame/BB
each time and eventually stay put. A little bit of blue loctite helps too.

You could sand away some of the paint too, or bash the end with a mallet. Using a different screw with a locking washer might help as well.

http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html

 

[amigafan2003]

I noticed that my left crank was always loose and this was because the anodizing / paint on the crank/spindle interface prevents the crank from being fully pressed on.

All paint/annodising.swarf should always be cleaned out of the taper seat on crank arms before installing.

Are people not doing this?

 

[speedmd]

I have never cleared anything off of any crank arms or spindle and have yet to have a problem with any crank arms unless you start jumping with them. Loctite on the screw and correct Torque will solve most all of this unless you ride it loose for awhile or over torque it and split or stretch out the crank arm pocket.

 

[jateureka]

According to the installation instructions, the crank arm M8 Allen bolts are supposed to be torqued to 35-40Nm. Hard to do that without 8mm Allen hex socket and torque wrench... It seems some people are just using an Allen key.

 

[speedmd]

Yes exactly, that is what I call my standard look style pedal wrench.

 

[Electric Junk]

I noticed that my left crank was always loose and this was because the anodizing / paint on the crank/spindle interface prevents the crank from being fully pressed on.

All paint/annodising.swarf should always be cleaned out of the taper seat on crank arms before installing.

Are people not doing this?

Why isn't it done from the factory if it's so obvious.

 

[tahustvedt]

Simply tightening to the correct torque, and then retightening after a few km will keep them on.

 

[oldhippie]

Hi all! New here. This thread is great!!! Just received 25amp 750w kit with 48v 11amp/hr bottle battery from Halomotor. Hope to get it installed in my Specialized hard rock SE '29er this week end. Hope all goes well... Have Avid bb7 calipers and larger rotors coming, figure I'll need them???

 

[amigafan2003]

I noticed that my left crank was always loose and this was because the anodizing / paint on the crank/spindle interface prevents the crank from being fully pressed on.

All paint/annodising.swarf should always be cleaned out of the taper seat on crank arms before installing.

Are people not doing this?

Why isn't it done from the factory if it's so obvious.

Because it costs money.

Any bike mechanic worth his salt knows the score, so no manufactirer bothers. It only catches out the inept/inexperienced mechanics.