New Bafang Crank-Drives

[Arakasy]

Nice one !!! Thanks buddy

 

[radoCol]

I just changed my tire size to the 16'' in the advanced display menu (the real life tire size is 29''). What a great feeling to drive faster!!!! I have the 750W version and my power meter (in C963 display) shows lower values with the 16'' setting than the 29'' setting. That is so strange because I'm going faster. What is going on!? The motor runs better with higher speed and consumes less energy or the meter calculates something and doesn't show the real power value (calculates from shunt resistor or something?). Strange...Yesterday I drove more than 40km with tour/boost mode when I saw the first drop of the battery power meter.

Anyways I can drive easily about 32...35km/h speeds in the 'tour' mode and with 'boost' mode I can go faster than 40km/h.

edit... the speed is measured by the gps...

-rado

 

[cycborg]

The battery meter on the bafang display is not very accurate. Once you start showing less than 4 bars you are getting low. Once you are at one bar the display acted up on me

Yeah, it's frustrating that there's no way to configure the fuel gauge, or to know know how it's configured - it doesn't know what your chemistry is, or how many cells you have, all it knows is "48 V" or "36 V". I'll be installing a Cycle Analyst tonight so hopefully over the next few battery cycles I'll get a feel for the bars vs. Wh relationship for my particular battery.

Anyway, thanks for the real-world range data. Makes me feel pretty confident about my 10 Ah capacity on my 20 mi RT commute when my company moves next month.

 

[mclark999]

The battery meter on the bafang display is not very accurate. Once you start showing less than 4 bars you are getting low. Once you are at one bar the display acted up on me

Yeah, it's frustrating that there's no way to configure the fuel gauge, or to know know how it's configured - it doesn't know what your chemistry is, or how many cells you have, all it knows is "48 V" or "36 V". I'll be installing a Cycle Analyst tonight so hopefully over the next few battery cycles I'll get a feel for the bars vs. Wh relationship for my particular battery.

Anyway, thanks for the real-world range data. Makes me feel pretty confident about my 10 Ah capacity on my 20 mi RT commute when my company moves next month.

I have completed round trip s of 26 miles total on my 48v 750w with 10ah battery. I can't measure wh used but I started at 54 volts and ended at 47 volts. The BBS is programmed to shut off at 40 volts, so I still had quite a bit of range left.

I.averaged about 18 mph and pedaled moderately. Used settings programmed between 350 and 500 watts.

 

[maxwell92036]

My third bafang mid drive bike has a 10 AMP hour battery and I know it is good for 20 to 25 miles with a fair amount of climbing. I don't like to run my batteries to shut off so If I was doing more than 20 to 25 miles regularly I would up it to a 15 AMP hour battery.
Now that I got the clutch deal squared away I am really enjoying these bikes. Super fun, climb just about anything, are fast (30 plus MPH), quiet and are well balanced. I really like not having any drives chains or belts hanging out on the main unit like some other kits. I think the Bosch, Optibike and Bafang mid drive systems will prevail for the main market where people want a clean and sealed unit. Now the big key to me is reliability, which only time will tell.

 

[maxwell92036]

My third bafang mid drive bike has a 10 AMP hour battery and I know it is good for 20 to 25 miles with a fair amount of climbing. I don't like to run my batteries to shut off so If I was doing more than 20 to 25 miles regularly I would up it to a 15 AMP hour battery.
Now that I got the clutch deal squared away I am really enjoying these bikes. Super fun, climb just about anything, are fast (30 plus MPH), quiet and are well balanced. I really like not having any drives chains or belts hanging out on the main unit like some other kits. I think the Bosch, Optibike and Bafang mid drive systems will prevail for the main market where people want a clean and sealed unit. Now the big key to me is reliability, which only time will tell.

 

[eMax]

My third bafang mid drive bike has a 10 AMP hour battery and I know it is good for 20 to 25 miles with a fair amount of climbing. I don't like to run my batteries to shut off so If I was doing more than 20 to 25 miles regularly I would up it to a 15 AMP hour battery.
Now that I got the clutch deal squared away I am really enjoying these bikes. Super fun, climb just about anything, are fast (30 plus MPH), quiet and are well balanced. I really like not having any drives chains or belts hanging out on the main unit like some other kits. I think the Bosch, Optibike and Bafang mid drive systems will prevail for the main market where people want a clean and sealed unit. Now the big key to me is reliability, which only time will tell.

Same name!
The other day i did a just under 60km (38m) trip with battery to spare on a EM3V 11ah frame battery and a 750w BBS02. PAS was on 4/5 out of 9 with a little throttle here and there. Average speed 30.5kmh (18.6mph). Was very happy with this run. Mainly flat though.

 

[boekhour]

Hello everybody... looking forward to rebuild my Koga Terraliner Alloy with the bbs01 crank drive.



My goal is to reach a maximum speed of around 40 a 42 km/u with moderate pedalling, no wind on the flat and optimum firmware settings in the controller.
What is the maximum speed possible with this bbs01? Should I take the bbs02 to reach this goal or is the bbs01 good enough.

Mabye I will alter the drive train also to a Nuvinci 360 and, if I can find, the electronic Harmony switching.

Is it also possibele to implement the 965 display?

Thx in advance for the answers!

 

[tomjasz]

One of my BBS01 350W runs at 19.5-20.1 at full throttle. The other @ 20.5-21.7 also at full throttle. Same speeds at max PAS.

 

[boekhour]

One of my BBS01 350W runs at 19.5-20.1 at full throttle. The other @ 20.5-21.7 also at full throttle. Same speeds at max PAS.

Is this with or without you pedalling?

 

[tomjasz]

One of my BBS01 350W runs at 19.5-20.1 at full throttle. The other @ 20.5-21.7 also at full throttle. Same speeds at max PAS.

Is this with or without you pedalling?

at full throttle. throttle over rides PAS.

 

[0utrider]

As for the bottle battery placement, I'll let this photo do the talking.....

Power to the people!

 

[t3sla]

As for the bottle battery placement, I'll let this photo do the talking.....

Power to the people!

Over a year since that photo was taken.
Many things have changed but one thing is for certain, I'm glad I waited a year before using it in a production run.
The BPM was the same, it took a few years before they made it into the best price to quality 500W geared on the market and it can still have some issues.

The market for mid drives has also opened up more and matured and I think at next years you will see some 350W-400W USA specked throttle drivers on production bikes.
If only those IGH were super strong

 

[kampua]

Thanks to everyone on this thread, I have been reading for the last 6 months and have installed my BBS02 750w from EM3EV last week. Hopefully it goes well.

At the moment just on a cheap Kmart mountain bike for experiment, probably will transfer on a better bike some time.

 

[Shorty]

I'd like to echo kampua's thanks as well, I too have just fitted a BBS02 750W with 961 display and 50v 12ah triangle battery from EM3EV in the last few days to my Kona Dawg. Only had a couple of short rides around the yard so far as because the bike has been unused for about three years the Hayes sole' brakes are stuffed and don't stop it at all, seals have leaked and O rings etc are beyond help. New Shimano brakes on the way so will have to wait to they are fitted before any longer testing.

 

[pompeimtb]

hi

cranckset broken in my bafang... where i can buy pars crankset? right and left?

 

[tomjasz]

I understand the serial number dating but there are second sets of numbers on each motor. I've posted the complete photo of each and the smaller pictures of the numbers in question. Are there two manufacturing dates of components? What are the numbers preceded by "K"?

Thanks!

 

[cycborg]

The "K" portion is the controller, which is easily swappable, which is fortunate for idiots like me who fry theirs trying to program it. :?

 

[tomjasz]

The "K" portion is the controller, which is easily swappable, which is fortunate for idiots like me who fry theirs trying to program it. :?

Egards! Fried it trying to program? Thanks for that tip, but how do I avoid that? I'm making my cable, finally, this week.

Thanks and sorry for the mishap!

Tom

 

[cycborg]

Fried it trying to program? Thanks for that tip, but how do I avoid that?

P+ needs to be shorted to PL to activate the controller, but if either of these then contacts TxD or RxD, the battery voltage will go straight through to the controller’s brain chip. This is easier to avoid if you’re splicing wires - I was wiring a connector instead and due to inadequate strain relief the wires pulled out their solder cups and shorted inside the connector.

If you’re splicing, just do the wires one at a time, (while disconnected from the motor of course) and be sure you have adequate heat shrink or whatever you’re using for isolation, and you should be fine.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Yes, the motors and controllers can be mixed and matched to sell the same handful of components in various countries with differing power limits. The question that just popped into my mind is...What is the unique identifying number(s) on the controller so we can all understand when you have an authentic 9-FET without opening up the controller and feeling the bumps on the potting goo.

Apparently there is nothing wrong with the original 6-FET, if you keep the amps under 22A and maybe even a little less if you have unusually long and steep uphills (heat)...

 

[cycborg]

The question that just popped into my mind is...What is the unique identifying number(s) on the controller so we can all understand when you have an authentic 9-FET without opening up the controller and feeling the bumps on the potting goo.

Ah yes, the time-honored reverse-engineering tactic of feeling the bumps on the potting goo…

I can’t give you a definitive answer, but I got one of the first batch of 9-FETs from EM3ev, serial numbers below. If someone with one of the later 6-FETs wants to post, maybe we can narrow it down a bit.

Motor: 1407010392
Controller: K5ECROF0206 140600974

 

[tomjasz]

Yes, the motors and controllers can be mixed and matched to sell the same handful of components in various countries with differing power limits. The question that just popped into my mind is...What is the unique identifying number(s) on the controller so we can all understand when you have an authentic 9-FET without opening up the controller and feeling the bumps on the potting goo.

Apparently there is nothing wrong with the original 6-FET, if you keep the amps under 22A and maybe even a little less if you have unusually long and steep uphills (heat)...

In the case of of BBS01 serials I posted, it's my understanding that the controller wasn't updated. The BBS02 was upgraded. Correct? But there are two different controller numbers. Should would be nice to know what the scoop is.

 

[von]

The exchange rate is 6 to1 and I just saw a bafang BBSO2 selling for $500 dollars direct from china Wow thats $3000 yuan these people are going to the bank ! all for a mediocre electric motor and some sub par electronics and then you still need to find a bike, buy batteries and assemble it all ? no wonder china now has more millionaires than the US or canada

 

[cycborg]

The exchange rate is 6 to1

6 to 1? That’s nothing! How about the Indonesian Rupiah - 11701 to 1! or the Iranian Rial - 26540 to 1! Those are the people really sticking it to the North Americans!

$3000 yuan

I bet you say “kW per hour” on a regular basis.

you still need to find a bike, buy batteries and assemble it all

If you poke around this forum a bit you may encounter a few people who like the DIY and customization aspects of the whole thing.