New Bafang Crank-Drives

Hi Steve

12s Lipo should work out just about perfectly for this kit. Not sure where the internal controller will cut off exactly and hoping folks using it now will chime in with their experiences as mine is not built yet (waiting for battery box parts). Most 48v controllers will cut off in the 42 volt range. I am adding low voltage alarms to this build as I will have some other folks trying it out.

Lots to learn on lipo so go easy. Scary stuff, but it puts out gobs of power from a small battery. No BMS needed. Neilp did a great job of showing the build to me half way down the page of my noob battery thread. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=45524 Lots more on the battery pages.
 
I requested mine to have the LVC set to 40V to use with a 12S LiPo setup. This will be just a last line of defence and will still monitor actual battery voltage when riding. I am interested to know what the standard LVC on the 48V setup is also.
 
Kepler said:
I requested mine to have the LVC set to 40V to use with a 12S LiPo setup. This will be just a last line of defence and will still monitor actual battery voltage when riding. I am interested to know what the standard LVC on the 48V setup is also.

This morning..Wow... your bike(super commute) eat up the 30degree(?) gradient Hill without a problem... lol.. I couldn’t keep up with throttle+hard/Pedals. My 350W need more hill climbing abilities... wish i got a 750w

My christmas wish list:
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Melbourne said:
Kepler said:
I requested mine to have the LVC set to 40V to use with a 12S LiPo setup. This will be just a last line of defence and will still monitor actual battery voltage when riding. I am interested to know what the standard LVC on the 48V setup is also.

This morning..Wow... your bike(super commute) eat up the 30degree(?) gradient Hill without a problem... lol.. I couldn’t keep up with throttle+hard/Pedals. My 350W need more hill climbing abilities... wish i got a 750w

My christmas wish list:

Where did you get that picture from? Is it possible to reprogramm the Controller? Or is someone in the french forum able to do that? That would be perfekt!

I don't wand to have a speed limit in the diverent levels. But a free setable current limit! Allthoug the level of assist should not affect the throttle at all!
 
--freeride-- said:
Melbourne said:
Kepler said:
I requested mine to have the LVC set to 40V to use with a 12S LiPo setup. This will be just a last line of defence and will still monitor actual battery voltage when riding. I am interested to know what the standard LVC on the 48V setup is also.

This morning..Wow... your bike(super commute) eat up the 30degree(?) gradient Hill without a problem... lol.. I couldn’t keep up with throttle+hard/Pedals. My 350W need more hill climbing abilities... wish i got a 750w

My christmas wish list:

Where did you get that picture from? Is it possible to reprogramm the Controller? Or is someone in the french forum able to do that? That would be perfekt!

I don't wand to have a speed limit in the diverent levels. But a free setable current limit! Allthoug the level of assist should not affect the throttle at all!

Software came from bafang factories for programing the controller.... only a few dealers were given the software for reprograming.
 
Melbourne said:
This morning..Wow... your bike(super commute) eat up the 30degree(?) gradient Hill without a problem... lol.. I couldn’t keep up with throttle+hard/Pedals. My 350W need more hill climbing abilities... wish i got a 750w

My christmas wish list:

Good to catch up the other morning. Coming up behind you I thought the bike was going too quick for a non lycra rider and had to be assisted. I really needed to have a hard look to spot the drive especially from behind. When I saw that it was a mid drive and a Bafang, I knew it must be you as I don't think there would be too many other Bafang drives on these bike paths :)

The Super Commuter of mine is in its element on these bike paths and is what it was built for. The little overvolted SWXH geared hub in a light bike eats hills and cruise's fast. While we were riding together for while, I was on my lowest assist setting and using under 200W for the speed we were going (a bit over 30kph) but when I powered up that hill, I used the boost button for the full 800W available with that setup. That hill by the way is about 10% gradient at most just in case anyone was wondering how a little geared hub can fly up it :) . I was pedaling hard also :)


I am really looking forward to my 750W mid drive Bafang and want to install it on the same bike if I can to get a real comparison between the two setups. I will have an inline Cycle Analyst fitted to record how efficient the system is compared to the geared hub setup. To be honest, for bike path riding, I think the geared hub setup that I have is going to be hard to beat. We will soon see.

I am not sure if it will fit on the bottom bracket of this bike though as is quite thick due to it being of carbon fibre construction.

 
It would not fit on any of the 4 carbon frames I own, only the metal frames.
 
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Looking at the picture it worries me a lot that even with the speed limiter removed, the setup won't be what I really want. With essentially 10 speed limits to remove just on the "basic setup", I wonder what I will really get. I hope they set all the speed limits to 100% but I think it is going to be lucky dip.

We really need to get hold of this software somehow.
 
Good that I am planning aluminum or steel builds with it. Bafang needs to start a new model,
BH5-659x440.jpg


One ("-03 superlight 750" )( bb386 compatible and suitable for a higher power external controller) for carbon frames with thicker bb sidewalls. Slightly larger motor to bb shell spacing if they can not do it with machining..
 
Kepler said:


Looking at the picture it worries me a lot that even with the speed limiter removed, the setup won't be what I really want. With essentially 10 speed limits to remove just on the "basic setup", I wonder what I will really get. I hope they set all the speed limits to 100% but I think it is going to be lucky dip.

We really need to get hold of this software somehow.

I think the 9 assist levels don't make sense for a comuter or a offroad bike, where you are willing to pedal. The levels should go from 50W to 300/400W max. for the PAS and the thumbthrottle is the boost to get the full power. Nobody needs a PAS mode where the controller is pushing 25A through the system...

A Speedlimit on a middrive is even more bullshit than it is on a hub Motor... Nobody that is using the bike as a bike and pedals needs that...

I am riding a Hubmotor with PAS and a Poti where I can controll the power. That is what is needed for the middrive to.
 
Totally agree. What you just mentioned is basically what I do with my current ride. I have 3 assist levels that I can switch with 2 assist levels being set at 200W and 350W. The third setting has a pot adjustment so that I set form zero assist to 800W assist but typically leave it at zero most of the time so I can flick the assist completely off when ever I want. I just then have a boost button (on the left) rather then a throttle that gives me the full 800W on demand. Very happy with this setup.



The above is all done through a Cycle Analyst 3. If I am not happy with the standard Bafang control, I plan to unplug the PAS internally and use the CA3 to drive the throttle directly. As long as the throttle as it stands isn't current or speed limited, this should be a good work around if needed. The CA3 has a speed PAS function that the quicker you pedal, the more assist it provides. Works surprisingly well. Not quite as good as torque PAS but the next best thing IMO.
 
You need the Bafang display to run the system because it is a Bussystem (controller and display talk via codes to each other) right.
I thought about that Cycle analyst workaround too, but I don't wan't to have the cycle analyst and the Bafang display on the handlebar...
 
All the fancy pedalec, power level, cruise control, etc, etc. is pointless crap on a 350 watt drive, through the gears. Nobody it going to exceed 28 mph, on the level with one of these systems. Even the 750 watt system will not get you faster than 28 mph, on level ground, with stock gearing. It only increases your possible acceleration/climbing speed. Give it a watt readout, run it WOT, and pick your energy use with the gear selector. It is that simple. It isn't a moped, but it is as perfect as an electric assist bicycle can be.
 
Hi all

I'm intending to run a BBS-02 (48v/750w) unit on the frame below:-

club-roost-xc4-enduro-whitebkgrd-670-80.jpg


Can anyone tell me the clearance required for the reduction gearing on the chain side? I need to make sure it will clear the swingarm pivot.

Cheers.
 
Kepler said:
The CA3 has a speed PAS function that the quicker you pedal, the more assist it provides. Works surprisingly well. Not quite as good as torque PAS but the next best thing IMO.
But then when you reach a hill (perhaps a steep one), you naturally pedal slower and slower, then the motor assists less and less?
 
speedmd said:
Looks like you will have plenty of clearance with that frame. Gearbox is less than a 80mm radius from the crank center and sits inboard of the bb face by about 1.7mm.

If it's "less" than 80mm then that should be ok as from the center of the bb shell to the swing arm it's EXACTLY 40mm.

Thanks :)
 
--freeride-- said:
You need the Bafang display to run the system because it is a Bussystem (controller and display talk via codes to each other) right.
I thought about that Cycle analyst workaround too, but I don't wan't to have the cycle analyst and the Bafang display on the handlebar...

Yes, I realise that I would need to keep the Bafang display. If I did need to resort to CA3 control, I would tuck the Bafang display away in my handlebar mount battery bag as there is plenty of room in there. No the perfect solution but still a work around at least until we get hold of the programming software. For starters though I will have both mounted on the handlebars with CA being just used to monitor battery condition and efficiency.
 
Warren said:
All the fancy pedalec, power level, cruise control, etc, etc. is pointless crap on a 350 watt drive, through the gears. Nobody it going to exceed 28 mph, on the level with one of these systems. Even the 750 watt system will not get you faster than 28 mph, on level ground, with stock gearing. It only increases your possible acceleration/climbing speed. Give it a watt readout, run it WOT, and pick your energy use with the gear selector. It is that simple. It isn't a moped, but it is as perfect as an electric assist bicycle can be.

At 350W, I agree with what you are saying in relation to running WOT and picking your energy usage with the gear selector. I am not so sure it will equate the same at 750W though. Is this something you have actually tested? You may well be right that even the 750W drive should run WOT and picking your energy usage with the gear selector. However I must say I am a bit skeptical that this will produce the best efficiency. I look forward to testing this out in the near future :) .

Yes, speed PAS is really just a pedal activated switch to turn the drive on and off. This suits me as I don't want to have the need to constantly hold the throttle on with my thumb.
 
amigafan2003 said:
Hi all

I'm intending to run a BBS-02 (48v/750w) unit on the frame below:-

club-roost-xc4-enduro-whitebkgrd-670-80.jpg


Can anyone tell me the clearance required for the reduction gearing on the chain side? I need to make sure it will clear the swingarm pivot.

Cheers.

Nice frame. Do you have a link to that one? Does that rear suspension geometry keep pedaling bob under control or will it tend to squat with each hard pedal push?
 
Kepler said:
Nice frame. Do you have a link to that one? Does that rear suspension geometry keep pedaling bob under control or will it tend to squat with each hard pedal push?

It's a pretty old design tbh - http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/frames/mountain-frame/product/review-club-roost-xc4-enduro-10964/

I've not noticed pedal induced bob.

Rest of the bike.

IMAG00951_zps7b6c98c6.jpg


I think I might just go for the battery in a back pack.
 
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