New Bafang Crank-Drives

Rollodo said:
Kepler said:
The CA3 has a speed PAS function that the quicker you pedal, the more assist it provides. Works surprisingly well. Not quite as good as torque PAS but the next best thing IMO.
But then when you reach a hill (perhaps a steep one), you naturally pedal slower and slower, then the motor assists less and less?

It does force to gear down and keep your cadence level up. However, its not a major problem as you have a set amount of assist up to a cadence of 50rpm just like a normal speed PAS. Assist then proportionally increases with cadence above 50rpm. You can set the base level of assist and the percentage increase of assist with cadence over 50rpm.

If I have a base level set to 250W, I set it up for around 300W at a cadence of around 75 and about 350W when spinning the pedals hard at a cadence of around 90.
 
amigafan2003 said:
Kepler said:
Nice frame. Do you have a link to that one? Does that rear suspension geometry keep pedaling bob under control or will it tend to squat with each hard pedal push?

It's a pretty old design tbh - http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/frames/mountain-frame/product/review-club-roost-xc4-enduro-10964/

I've not noticed pedal induced bob.

I think I might just go for the battery in a back pack.

Looks like a great choice of frame for a mid drive conversion. Says the fame suits medium sized riders though. I am 6' 3" :cry:
 
"I am not so sure it will equate the same at 750W though. Is this something you have actually tested?

I can do it on my 350 watt mid-drive. I have a 12s LiFePO4, 30 Ah pack, and a 25 amp controller. I choose to run it at around 350 watts most of the time, and 450-500 watts sometimes on hills. I have run it up to 800 watts briefly, just to feel what it was like. Running that kind of power is fun, but sucks up battery, and is hard on standard bicycle drivetrains.
 
All that is required is running one or two gears higher. On a steep hill, at least, your extra energy expenditure is almost one for one...double the power, double the speed. But on level roads the increase in energy use is exponential. And to make it worse, your pedaling input isn't going to increase, so the battery is having to provide an even bigger percentage of the whole. You have to ask yourself, "If riding a bike is so much fun, why are you in such a hurry to get it over with?"
 
"If riding a bike is so much fun, why are you in such a hurry to get it over with?"

My knees sound like a rusty gate hinge in the morning, and when I stretch it sounds like bacon in a hot frying pan (I am 54). But...it's not the years that hurt, it's the miles. I am told if I exercise my knees, they will not get worse, but there are hills around my home, so...I must use an electric bicycle or no bicycle (*a tear slowly rolls down my cheek...as I shoot past a young lycra).
 
spinningmagnets said:
Someone needs to be the first guinea pig, BMS-Battery is calling this a 48V BBS01-350W, soooo...someone is confused. The picture they show seems to say "48V 15A" which would be 720W? Its possible they have the narrower BBS01 Stator, but are attaching it to a 48V / 15A controller?:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/central-motor/629-48v350w-bbs01-bafang-central-motor.html

Hello again!

I just saw this confusion and figured I would explain what BMS Battery is offering and how misleading their specs are, also what the real specs are:

1.) All systems from the BBS-0X line are programmed at the factory with certain features, their power level doesn't matter... this can be complicated to explain and I will save this for my post later this weekend on everything technical about the Bafang crank drive system, it's also not important to the current confusion and would just add to it.

2.) The motor is identical to all BBS-01 350w systems, the controller limits the current to 16 or 18A, this particular unit appears to be limiting to 18A - see #3 for why. That means spinningmagnets you are correct in that the input power would be: 769.6 @ 16 or 865.8w @ 18A and 48.1v nominal - using the same tested (I tested it) 80% maximum efficiency of this system in general it translates to crank power of: 615.68w @ 16A and 668.712 @ 18A and 48v nominal.

3.) The LCD pictured is from the very first production line of the bafangs however, they haven't changed much but the color from white to black in the C961 model which is what they are picturing. This tells me when it was produced and since I had one I also know the remaining specs for these units.

4.) I would bet 1.00 that the chainring is a 48t variety, almost all the stock kits are - according to Bafang 80% of the first batch they built (all the various derivatives) were 48t, some were 46t and since these aren't new - unless someone ordered a pallete of 47 custom made and BMS Battery bought em up cheap, they must be 48t

The shipping will likely be expensive and you must check for warpage and bending of the chainring, crank arms and other parts upon receipt to be sure you receive a useable drive system but the price (without shipping) is quite fair and it would be worth a guinea pig.

I nearly forgot to mention, these will run quite nicely on 15S lipo too (charged to 62.25-62.5v maximum pack voltage) - at that voltage they are quite a bit quicker and use 888w to 999w at 16 to 18a nominal, at 16A the output to the rear cassette or freewheel is 710.4w which is fully legal in the USA and mathematically provable. One could even argue that the 799w output from the crank case on 18A would be no more than 750w at the street due to mechanical losses of the freewheel, chain and rolling resistance.

Guess I'm saying these are worth the purchase if the shipping costs are kept low enough, downside - I order all my things from BMS Battery as EMS shipped to ensure they arrive intact and functional without damage.

Regards,
Mike aka mwkeefer
 
So about 450 delivered, if that's usd it's worth it, if not check into prices on 750 bbs02 delivered, they will be considerably more. The first ones here in the states were 650.00 for that model so it's not a bad price

-Mike
 
My 750W / 48V version was $530 USD delivered which converted at the time to $560 AUD. This was through Aliexpress with the seller being GEB (General Electric Battery Co) Ordered 3 weeks ago. Just got confirmation that it is ready to ship so not quick on delivery.
 
mwkeefer said:
spinningmagnets said:
Someone needs to be the first guinea pig, BMS-Battery is calling this a 48V BBS01-350W, soooo...someone is confused. The picture they show seems to say "48V 15A" which would be 720W? Its possible they have the narrower BBS01 Stator, but are attaching it to a 48V / 15A controller?:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/central-motor/629-48v350w-bbs01-bafang-central-motor.html

Hello again!

I just saw this confusion and figured I would explain what BMS Battery is offering and how misleading their specs are, also what the real specs are:

1.) All systems from the BBS-0X line are programmed at the factory with certain features, their power level doesn't matter... this can be complicated to explain and I will save this for my post later this weekend on everything technical about the Bafang crank drive system, it's also not important to the current confusion and would just add to it.

2.) The motor is identical to all BBS-01 350w systems, the controller limits the current to 16 or 18A, this particular unit appears to be limiting to 18A - see #3 for why. That means spinningmagnets you are correct in that the input power would be: 769.6 @ 16 or 865.8w @ 18A and 48.1v nominal - using the same tested (I tested it) 80% maximum efficiency of this system in general it translates to crank power of: 615.68w @ 16A and 668.712 @ 18A and 48v nominal.

3.) The LCD pictured is from the very first production line of the bafangs however, they haven't changed much but the color from white to black in the C961 model which is what they are picturing. This tells me when it was produced and since I had one I also know the remaining specs for these units.

4.) I would bet 1.00 that the chainring is a 48t variety, almost all the stock kits are - according to Bafang 80% of the first batch they built (all the various derivatives) were 48t, some were 46t and since these aren't new - unless someone ordered a pallete of 47 custom made and BMS Battery bought em up cheap, they must be 48t

The shipping will likely be expensive and you must check for warpage and bending of the chainring, crank arms and other parts upon receipt to be sure you receive a useable drive system but the price (without shipping) is quite fair and it would be worth a guinea pig.

I nearly forgot to mention, these will run quite nicely on 15S lipo too (charged to 62.25-62.5v maximum pack voltage) - at that voltage they are quite a bit quicker and use 888w to 999w at 16 to 18a nominal, at 16A the output to the rear cassette or freewheel is 710.4w which is fully legal in the USA and mathematically provable. One could even argue that the 799w output from the crank case on 18A would be no more than 750w at the street due to mechanical losses of the freewheel, chain and rolling resistance.

Guess I'm saying these are worth the purchase if the shipping costs are kept low enough, downside - I order all my things from BMS Battery as EMS shipped to ensure they arrive intact and functional without damage.

Regards,
Mike aka mwkeefer

Thanks for the excellent post Mike. I am looking forward to your up and coming tech post on the drive.

I certainly plan to try higher voltages to see what best suits the max speed I want to be able to achieve.

In relation to the speed limit removal, Did your drive have the speed limit removed on all of PAS levels and on the throttle, or just the throttle?
 
Obtained 750W drive this week.
Pairing it with 50V battery from EM3ev.
Spent last 24 hours mounting it on an old favorite pedal bike... one that I've ridden for 2K+ miles.

First impression.

Unit itself is impressive. Seems high quality. Close your eyes and hoist it in your hand, feels like a car starter or alternator: dense.

Wiring harness? Almost too simple. Basically plug-and-play. After couple builds of deciphering possible wiring combos... less challenge to get it running, for sure. Not certain whether this is plus or minus for hobbyist :?

Weak link? The brake levers. Kind of junky, with plastic mounts. I swapped in a pair of slightly better levers. No real problem, but this kit deserves better.

Service from the vendor? Top flight. Received kit less than a week after order. Seller did some custom programming that I requested (remove speed limit, slightly adjust the cadence).

So I got the machine on the trail this afternoon. Beautiful for first half mile! Then a link in the chain popped.

Too much torque? Bad link? Who knows. First impression: beaucoup power.

Off to LBS to secure heavier duty chain.

P.S. -- That first half mile was sweet! Looking forward to next ride tomorrow morning.
 
I run an 8 speed chain and 12-34 cassette now, not exceeding 500 watts and never over 250 in the 12 tooth. Chains hold up fine.

If I were going to try running 750 watts through one of these with a derailleur, I would run an 8 speed chain with an 11-34 Megarange cassette, and dump the 11 tooth cog from the cassette. This would leave you with a 13 tooth high gear. I'd add a 41 tooth low, and screw the tension "B" screw in all the way, to get the jockey pulley to clear the big cog. If that isn't enough, replace with a longer screw. You may need to bend the screw to get it to hit the stop on the hanger.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/41-Tooth-Cog-for-Mountain-Bike-Cassette-41t-Sprocket-/251243702528?pt=US_Cassettes_Freewheels_Cogs&hash=item3a7f4aa900

This would at least give you a shot at your chains holding up. If you were running 48-50 volts, the 48 tooth chainring might still be fine for off-road., but you'd probably want to go bigger for the road.
 
For the 750w 48v unit, I would strongly suggest sticking with 7 speeds and chain if at all possible, it is the strongest chain by far and will sustain the 1500w I frequently see when climbing my Mt. Everest.

If you must exceed 7 speed, please don't think about 9 or 10 and go with 8 speed specific chain as it will be the second strongest.

Truth is, I don't even really need 7 speeds... 5-6 would be more than adequate for nearly all my riding if spaced correctly.

-Mike
 
My setup is 20" wheels, Shimano 8-speed IGH.

Just swapped in a new chain and took bike out for a ride in the dark.

Serious hills here in my neighborhood.

Was pedaling up long/steep hill in 3rd gear, all well but felt like it was lagging a bit, so hit the throttle as experiment.
Serious power surge, then an odd sensation. Took me a moment to realize it was because front wheel was off the ground, and I was riding balancing on the rear wheel.
Fun moment for sure, but quite an adrenaline surge! Leaned forward, slacked off throttle, and all was well.

Going to have to be a bit careful with this.
 
footloose said:
Serious power surge, then an odd sensation. Took me a moment to realize it was because front wheel was off the ground, and I was riding balancing on the rear wheel.
Did you look at what the power output was during the surge?
 
Didn't, it was pretty dark. It didn't feel like a system malfunction, just felt like lots of power on tap. I'll try it again in the day light mañana.
 
Two BB-02 kits should land on my doorstep in about a week. Now to get serious about which bikes to put them on. Can I solicit opinions please re: the compatability for mounting a motor on these dual suspension mtn. bikes?
A concern is the "para-BB" articulation/motion v. mounting and position angle of motor.
View attachment 2
Bike rack bike BB.jpg
Red big tire BB.jpg

Any feedback appreciated. :D
 
footloose said:
My setup is 20" wheels, Shimano 8-speed IGH.

Just swapped in a new chain and took bike out for a ride in the dark.

Serious hills here in my neighborhood.

Was pedaling up long/steep hill in 3rd gear, all well but felt like it was lagging a bit, so hit the throttle as experiment.
Serious power surge, then an odd sensation. Took me a moment to realize it was because front wheel was off the ground, and I was riding balancing on the rear wheel.
Fun moment for sure, but quite an adrenaline surge! Leaned forward, slacked off throttle, and all was well.

Going to have to be a bit careful with this.

Just so you get this...

1.) Shimano 8-speed IGH if it's the A variety has 308% of range within the following ratios:
1st Gear: 0.527 : 1
2nd Gear: 0.644 : 1
3rd Gear: 0.748 : 1
4th Gear: 0.851: 1
5th Gear: 1:1
6th Gear: 1.223 : 1
7th Gear: 1.419 : 1
8th Gear: 1.615 : 1

Presuming stock Shimano 8 input cog being 25T and a driving Chainring of 48t, the ratio from Chainring to rear (before the IGH gears are applied) is:
48 / 25 = 1.92 : 1

Our new drive ratios become:
1st.) 1.92 * .527 = 1.015529 : 1
2nd.) 1.92 * .644 = 1.2364 : 1
3rd.) 1.92 * .748 = 1.43 : 1
4th.) 1.92 * .851 = 1.62292 : 1
5th.) 1.92 * 1 = 1.92 : 1
6th.) 1.92 * 1.223 = 2.34816 : 1
7th.) 1.92 * 1.419 = 2.72448 : 1
8th.) 1.92 * 1.615 = 3.1008 : 1

Presuming at assist 3, throttle ramp would take about 1.5 seconds to reach Maximum current of 100% - at 100% current is at 26A.

So that 1.5 seconds after going to WIDE OPEN THROTTLE your going to push maximum current while in 3rd gear or 1.43 : 1
Since the rated kV of this motor appears to be 118 at 48v loaded, that should produce a rear wheel RPM of just 168.74 RPM or 10 mph maximum. Such a low
top end combined with a peak of torque and power and sure your gonna feel the surge - I have tested with the same 8 speed internal geared up as you have
and found only a few gears were really of use - always started in 3rd 10 mph, went to 7th @ 19.13 mph and finally 8th for a top speed of mph- unless I was
starting at the base of a mountain and from a dead stop... 8th gear when use-able would give me 21.77 mph at nominal voltage of 48 sustainable.

There are a few solutions to this that I have used, and a few I am working on and will have available shortly:

1.) The first and most useful of the options (quick switch over) is simply to bolt on a new chainring. Since bafang is not stepping up I have a initial batch of 30 rings coming in - 10 x 52 tooth, 10 x 53 tooth, 5 x 56 tooth and even 5 60 tooth for the recumbent crew, I don't have prices per unit yet but will announce them when possible - they are crafted using a dual process of sand cutting rough and lazer finishing as they are 7075 Aircraft aluminum - should do wonders for noise, weight and longevity.

With even just an upgrade to a 52 tooth your ratios would increase dramatically.

2.) Your controller may need to be reprogrammed, it sounds as if instead of 100% throttle with very fine control you have firmware or settings limiting your throttle before reaching pedal assist level 3... could be designed to prevent drive train shock but current monitoring could do a much better job!

3.) With my 750 at 15S (I think at 13S too but I'd have to check) and being logged - without pedal assistance enabled (hardware bypassed), i goosed my throttle (configured with no transitional delay or ramp up other than that which I dial into the throttle, full control. and from 3rd gear I too went up - that pulled no more than 26 Amps using 10 time per second sampling. There are some minor issues between how we (any of us) may want this to work and how each version does indeed work but the US vendors I'm in contact with, the manufacturers and Chinese distributors are aware of what truly are a combination of misunderstandings and what seems to be a lack of understandings of the reps and sales people, who translate complicated specs and reqirements to the engineers and things get lost in translation and vendors end up with firmware which doesn't actually suit their needs exactly. Still great units.

For the gentleman with the "Crappy Brake Pulls", you are indeed right and as most of my bikes have trigger shifting for rapid fire change (derailleur based anyway) may I suggest you remove the junk ones... restore your original or maybe upgrade the pulls to something nicer if possible with your bike - discs are a great asset.

Hope this helps make sense of it all for you!

Regards,
Mike
 
There is no "7 speed" chain, as such, anymore. The widest derailleur chain is 5/6/7/8 speed, one width. There are different widths for 9 speed, and 10 speed. Within those three sizes, there is a variation of a few thousandths of an inch between manufactures. The good news is, with your IGH, you can run massive BMX chain.

You will want to go to a 16 tooth cog on that IGH ASAP, otherwise you are wasting most of the Bafang's potential. That should give you an 8-24 mph speed range.

Sounds like a great setup otherwise. Pretty low load on the components in that small wheel. In a 20" wheel, with a BMX chain, that setup should run a good, long time.
 
The French pedelec forum www.cyclurba.fr has a member selling a 4-arm 104-BCD spider, CNC aluminum, with chainrings available from 32T-48T. This is probably appropriate for France since they have significant mountains (Tour de France, etc), but for US customers, perhaps a 5-arm 130-BCD spider might be more appropriate. A quick Google shows chainrings are readily available from 38T-60T.

I don't know if the bikemotive spiders will fit, could someone post the interface of the BBS01-2? :

Spider130_1_gs_medium.png
 
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