speedmd
10 MW
You are correct. It has a lock ring that holds it on.
New Bafang Crank-Drives
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
nippynoo
10 mW
speedmd said:
Yes it uses a lockring. Hope these pics help others.
Seems the lockring will do nothing to counteract any slop in the shaft. So, as said by others the shaft will have to be loctited/glued to prevent movement, and then its a matter of hoping it lasts... because it cant be removed - its permanently in the frame. And without some sort of "liquid welding" the free-play in the shaft will eventually get worse, due to the reciprocating forces due to pedalling, resulting in fatigue cracks in the frame. But obviously none of this is an issue if the bike is only used in motorized mode.
speedmd
10 MW
Hi Nippynoo
The whole thing sounds trollish to me. Not only is the entire length of bb threads support the motors smooth BB shell if it get slightly loose, you have the torque of the lock nut holding the motor assembly firmly in place on the thickest /strongest part of the bike. Anyone claiming your pedal forces is going to break your BB shell does not know bike frames at all. If it starts making noise, it has obviously come loose, so stop riding, and fix it. Go at in steps as needed, and if you can not get it to stay put, tape it up or loctite it. Just mild heat loosens loctite and most of the other threadlockers. Who the hell ever mentioned liquid weld. Tell orvil to join the modern century. I would be very surprised if you had any maintenance issues with it other than initial re torque that should always be done. Happy motoring.
The whole thing sounds trollish to me. Not only is the entire length of bb threads support the motors smooth BB shell if it get slightly loose, you have the torque of the lock nut holding the motor assembly firmly in place on the thickest /strongest part of the bike. Anyone claiming your pedal forces is going to break your BB shell does not know bike frames at all. If it starts making noise, it has obviously come loose, so stop riding, and fix it. Go at in steps as needed, and if you can not get it to stay put, tape it up or loctite it. Just mild heat loosens loctite and most of the other threadlockers. Who the hell ever mentioned liquid weld. Tell orvil to join the modern century. I would be very surprised if you had any maintenance issues with it other than initial re torque that should always be done. Happy motoring.
wineboyrider
1 MW
The old fashioned bottom brackets were just filled with grease???
nippynoo
10 mW
Maybe a smooth bore would be better, but the new type of bottom brackets housing have threads at either end, which this bafang unit will unfortunately flatten the tops off, as soon as that lockring starts to wiggle loose, as the poor old threads will then take all the bending forces.wineboyrider said:
I think we all now agree the unit should be fitted with loctite/gap filler - but nowhere else have I seen it mentioned - and the installation video doesnt suggest it.
But thanks to all feedback. I was actually on the verge of ordering some from china but the fact it has to be loctited-in has put me off completely. I wouldnt want to loctite it into somebody's expensive bike frame. Would you? I'll wait for someone else to kindly provide some feedback, after they've actually tried it for a while.
wineboyrider
1 MW
Sounds to me like you have done your homework..Good job!nippynoo said:
I've been using these drive systems since March, fitted dozens of bikes with them including high end carbon bikes and have yet to see any issue. The mounting is very secure due to the ridges that the lock ring has which keeps it securely fitted to the bottom bracket. It also employs a second lock ring to ensure that it doesn't come loose, again have had no issues using this system both on and off road.
skyungjae
10 kW
lcrewse said:
How is it at taking 20ft drops?
speedmd
10 MW
lcrewse said:
My impression also. Thanks for posting. Looks relatively bullet proof to me. I believe anyone thinking hanging off BB bearing cups is better setup is in for a surprise.
athletic91
100 W
How noisy / quiet is the bafang drive compared to the smooth humming hub motors?
t3sla
10 kW
athletic91 said:
Typically less
crossbreak
1 MW
some weight measurement....anyone?
Tiverion
1 W
bare drive unit is 3.6kgcrossbreak said:
Tiverion
1 W
better than that.t3sla said:
can't hear mine at all - might be because I'm a bit deaf though.
crossbreak
1 MW
thanks Tiverion. added some wiki entry about this drive: http://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/EBike_Motors_Middrive#Aftermarket_middrive_motors
Arbol
100 W
lcrewse said:
For the 36V 250W, do you always use 36V? Or have you tried to use 48V batteries?
I've only used 36v 350w and 48v 350w units so far and they are tailored for the corresponding voltage as the motor is wound differently on the 48v so that you still have a normal pedal cadence. In addition, the controllers LVC function is also set up based on the voltage its designed for. I have a few of the 48v 750 watt units that will be here next week to test with a bunch more on the slow boat arriving in a few weeks. I'll post info on those once I have them.
crossbreak
1 MW
lcrewse said:
750W!! Where did you buy?
t3sla
10 kW
crossbreak said:
That's interesting, according to Bafang the 750W has never entered production :|
I will begin selling these and will start a new sales thread when my quantity order arrives in a little over two weeks. Production (at least for me) was delayed and began late July, early August. My units are configured for the US market in 36v 350w and 48v 750w varieties. I have a few that will be here in the next day or two that I'll be testing and comparing to the existing 36v and 48v 350w units that I've been using the last 6 months.
waynebergman
100 kW
Super, I am sure many will be following this one with interest!
Arbol
100 W
lcrewse said:
Could you please report how you see both motors, after this 6 month usage?
nippynoo
10 mW
Here's a pic of the BBS02
