Rollodo
1 kW
Just curious, can this be reliably used on a fat bike, on sand?
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New Bafang Crank-Drives
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
nukezero
10 kW
Rollodo said:
Yes, Lecrewse has it on a fat bike.
I'm curious myself if it would work on a Dahon 20" folding bike. I'm thinking that is my next project.
nukezero
10 kW
Also, just had a crazy idea. What if, you had a rear hub drive with this bbs-01 chain drive together? :lol: :lol: I'm assuming the hub drive (bafang bpm) would take over first, then the chain drive handles the high speed gearing.
Rollodo said:
These work much better than a hub motor in the sand due to the mechanical advantage you have using lower gearing. In deep sand and when first getting going this is very important. Here's a short video of riding through some sand.
[youtube]HGMEC2RigaM[/youtube]
So is the official pricing on these going to start at over $600?
I really want to get my hands on one but at that price point I'm not so sure. Anyone have a guesstimate on pricing once these are officially being sold in the United States?
I really want to get my hands on one but at that price point I'm not so sure. Anyone have a guesstimate on pricing once these are officially being sold in the United States?
EVTodd said:
Officially sold in the US now (ship from Arizona) http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=50188 or http://www.lectriccycles.com. 350w and 750w in stock and already been shipping out 350w units for several months. At this point only one with the 750w actually available with kits configured specifically for the US market and a warranty.
lcrewse said:
Thanks for the info. I guess that will be around the normal pricing on these then.
Still a lot less expensive than getting a complete bosch type bike. Kinda... By the time you get batteries you're still talking some serious money. I guess I was hoping since it was Bafang making these that they would be a little more affordable. I'm cheap though! :lol:
nukezero
10 kW
On a side note, looks like bafang uses three different types of LCDs. I wonder what's the difference with the third one. The second one seems the nicest of all but I'm super concerned of theft. It's very fancy. The C950 which is what I have would appeal to less people as it shows vel, odo, dst. To someone in the US, that probably just means it is some kind of speedemeter and distance measurement screen. Probably wouldn't steal it as much as the chrome-bezel looking C961.
The C963 also seems a bit fancy with the piano black finish.
The downside to my C950 is the fixed KM/H display.
The C963 also seems a bit fancy with the piano black finish.
The downside to my C950 is the fixed KM/H display.
nukezero
10 kW
dummy me, Warren, I just checked the repair link you sent me, and it looks like I know where the problem may lie. My shifter wire does not go straight through the derailleur like it says it should. I bent it downwards when it exits the derailleur in an effort to make it lock and feel nice and tight. I wonder if that is contributing to the problems.
edit: got home to play with the rear derailleur some more. Finished adjusting sprockets 1-6 and 7 is having problems going into. it turns out the rear derailleur is "slowly" moving into it but gets stuck, I have to finger push it. looks like it's gunked up in there. wonder if I can wd-40 it.
edit: got home to play with the rear derailleur some more. Finished adjusting sprockets 1-6 and 7 is having problems going into. it turns out the rear derailleur is "slowly" moving into it but gets stuck, I have to finger push it. looks like it's gunked up in there. wonder if I can wd-40 it.
nukezero said:
The C963 has real time power info (in watts) but also only displays in km/h and has a small but high quality screen. The C961 has the 6 hex bolts securing it and the controls onto the handlebar. Unless someone wants to remove all 6 bolts and steal a display with a proprietary plug that will work with nothing else, I think it's a non-issue. That is of course, unless someone with the same drive system but an inferior display, a bike multitool and a lack of morality happens to encounter an unattended bike with the BBS system :lol:
nukezero
10 kW
Alright guys, I have an improvement suggestion for the BBS-01. After trying to figure out for hours why her rear derailleur won't shift properly and a lot of cursing, it turns out that the derailleur is perfectly fine. When I shifted, I noticed the derailleur moving so slowly compared to my other bike. So I knew it was too much friction. The friction came from somewhere in the line. It turns out the derailleur cable exits the down tube right at the bottom bracket. Then it goes underneath the bottom bracket to the rear.
That's the big problem. The cable got wedged too tight when the bbs-01 motor was mounted against it. This created friction. I was able to somewhat push the cable to the right side so that there is a small enough gap to give the cable some room but I still feel the cable is getting wedged, just not as bad as before. Well, my intuitions were correct. My derailleur is now shifting perfectly and very fast.
So I hope bafang came create some sort of guide channel or hole (half circle) to accommodate bikes that have this issue.
That's the big problem. The cable got wedged too tight when the bbs-01 motor was mounted against it. This created friction. I was able to somewhat push the cable to the right side so that there is a small enough gap to give the cable some room but I still feel the cable is getting wedged, just not as bad as before. Well, my intuitions were correct. My derailleur is now shifting perfectly and very fast.
So I hope bafang came create some sort of guide channel or hole (half circle) to accommodate bikes that have this issue.
nukezero
10 kW
lcrewse said:
sounds like I will order a C963 from a supplier if I can.
nukezero
10 kW
Oh by the way, there seems to be a slight runout with the chainring on this bafang bbs-01. It's not significant but it's definitely noticeable. I remember when I put the chainring flat on my desk, it seemed ok.
"So I hope bafang came create some sort of guide channel or hole (half circle) to accommodate bikes that have this issue."
I think you are asking way too much of the kit manufacturer. I see production bikes with design flaws all the time. Internal cable routing is one of them. It is one of the stupidest ideas ever. It is totally about styling, and even on multi-thousand dollar bikes it creates problems.
I think you are asking way too much of the kit manufacturer. I see production bikes with design flaws all the time. Internal cable routing is one of them. It is one of the stupidest ideas ever. It is totally about styling, and even on multi-thousand dollar bikes it creates problems.
"but external cables create drag and make me slower!!!! 
"
Yes. What a joke. My favorite was working on a big name manufacturer TT bike. You had to take the rear brake OFF the bike to install new pads! They had it sunk into a pocket in the rear seat cluster. The total drag of a bicycle is less than that from the rider's head. The position of the rider is far more important than all the styling nonsense they do to sell the newest rehash of 150 year old design.
"Yes. What a joke. My favorite was working on a big name manufacturer TT bike. You had to take the rear brake OFF the bike to install new pads! They had it sunk into a pocket in the rear seat cluster. The total drag of a bicycle is less than that from the rider's head. The position of the rider is far more important than all the styling nonsense they do to sell the newest rehash of 150 year old design.
nukezero
10 kW
I'm trying to hide the wires better. Do you guys know if it is okay to slightly enlarge the hole on the downtube where the cables go into the downtube? I need to enlarge it by 3mm so I can fit the circular connectors in there. This will give it the cleanest look.
You have already voided your warranty by adding the motor, so it is up to you. If there is any flexing happening in the area of that hole you are asking for trouble. If you do increase the hole size, make sure the hole is smooth, with no sharp edges, or notches, round and deburred inside and out.
nukezero
10 kW
Warren said:
1. How would the bike shop know I added the motor? What if I reverted everything back? And then just say yeah I took everything off to clean and degrease and lube.
2. That is my concern is that if I drill too much or awkwardly, it could weaken the metal. After all, it is the downtube. Plus, I'm afraid that it could cause rust if I don't somehow repaint the area. I don't have a file at this point to debur it.
Damn, this hobby is getting expensive.
RoadWrinkle
100 W
Bought a new Specialized rockhopper comp with a 73mm BB, want to mount this Bafang crank drive (750w), not sure it will work at all with the motor being 68mm design. Not sure if moving the chainline 5mm with spacers will screw up shifting and or cause derailing(?) Not sure I would be able to use both ring nuts supplied with the kit due to this issue, which makes me unsure about how secure the thing will sit in my BB frame with just one ring nut (why have two if one is sufficient..because one is not sufficient to hold tight(?). Any advice?
Seems like this unit could present issues installing on this rockhopper. Anyone else done it on this exact bike (2013 Rockhopper 29'er comp)?
Seems like this unit could present issues installing on this rockhopper. Anyone else done it on this exact bike (2013 Rockhopper 29'er comp)?
Rollodo
1 kW
Was mounting the motor your intention? If yes, I'd personally make sure that the bike specs conform to that of motor's prior to purchasing.RoadWrinkle said:
RoadWrinkle said:
73mm isn't a problem, just need the 5mm longer bolts and spacers on the non drive side and use one locking (the fatter one) instead of two. I have a Fat bike running this width right now as well as an old Full Suspension Titus that's had a 350w motor for almost 6 months with a 73mm bottom bracket, again no issues. The Q factor hasn't been a problem that I or anyone I know has complained about, even when mounted on a road bike I didn't feel it was an issue.
RoadWrinkle
100 W
Rollodo: Already purchased the bike with the original intent of a hub motor install, but I am impressed with the stealth and clean design of this mid drive system. Also this would allow me to keep the matched (and strong) OEM wheels and no issue with rear cassettes, disc brakes, dropouts or TA's. No, I am sure I want a mid drive now, perhaps I just need to find this design in a 73 BB size? Any advice on installing this?
RoadWrinkle
100 W
lcrewse said:
I read through the entire 12 pages of this thread and was actually concerned about the welding, filing and grinding you described to make the 750 w system install on that fat bike. Any way you could post the installation instructions?
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