New Bafang Crank-Drives

Yeah. Not all IGHs are created equal. I have little personal experience with IGHs because they are heavy, inefficient, and expensive compared to derailleur setups...just one more reason why I stick to a 350 watt nominal system. As much as I have the natural addiction to ever more speed, I have even more of an aversion to reduced efficiency.

Working in the bike shop, it seemed big, strong guys came in with complaints about their IGHs more often than most. I understand, however, that the Rohloff hub is the gold standard for efficiency, and strength.

I also hear that, if you aren't as concerned about efficiency, the older NuVinci hubs are cheap and strong. But if you aren't concerned about conserving battery, why not just go with a big hub motor?
 
Is there a 5 hole ø130mm bcd chainwheel spider for the BBS02 ?
Bafang 5 hole bcd is ø81m
Something like the bikemotive 130 bcd on pic. I dont know the inner bcd....
 
http://cyclurba.fr/forum/231178/moteur-pn-dalier-bafang-bbs01.html?from=1251&discussionID=11651&messageID=272124&rubriqueID=102&pageprec=

forum272124_M.jpg
 
be sure you use a "single chainwheel" without hyperglide pockets, they are useless launch ramp for the chain, just helps the chain to fall off :lol: The fsa / bosch chainwheels for example are single speed, reasonable priced and come with a bashguard. I will offer an adapter for the 4-hole chainwheels made of 0.1" stainless that is below 80g (0.175lbs) soon, including some spacers to match the chainline. Adapter will be around 30-35€ + shipping. If you want one, just PM me.

eride said:
Bafang 5 hole bcd is ø81m
Click to expand...
really? looks smaller... how did you measure?
 
Lectriccycles.com confirms ø81mm and tech. drawings does the same
Anyone meassured innder bcd on bikemotive 130 bcd spider?
 

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81mm is the radius not the diameter to the gear case wall as drawn. Not sure if this includes the bump the pinion makes in the case. Will look at it when it warms up a bit. 130mm ring circle is not going to clear the housing when mounting rings inboard without some near flush mount hardware. For outboard mounting, it should be no issue but this then puts the chain line further from center line which will induce added torque in the frame. Any chain ring adapter IMO should include the jog as on the stock rings and be further inboard if you can clear the chainstay with the size ring you are planing.

Has anyone in the group been able to use a 219 chain on a conventional rear derailleur system. Would be a interesting setup with 3 or 4 rear cogs.
 
Did some quick measurements. Sprocket flange hub /ring center hole is 50mm in diameter and flange mounting face sits 4mm above the gearbox cover. Chainring sprocket mount (BCD) bolt circle diameter is 60mm. BB center to side edge of largest gear box protrusion (pinion gear bump) is 80 mm.

With the chainring mounted, there is 11mm clearance from the inside of the stock chainring to the motor case (looks like easily room enough to add a ring and chain inboard). The sprocket side motor case sits proud of the BB shell by approximately 4mm when mounted without shims.

cheers
 
I just read Energy Cycles will be making a version of their bike w/the 48 volt 500 Watt version , would this be something to easily upgrade tot he 750 watt version w/o speed limiter?
 
Warren said:
the older NuVinci hubs are cheap and strong.
Click to expand...
Anyone, how does one id the older NuVincis and where can they be purchased? Can you please tell us when they were made? Any downside to them v. newer model?
Thanks.
 
Hi CB,

I use the older auto shift model NuVinci developer's kit on a trike and I love it. I think it's called model N171B. I also tried the manual shift N171B and hated it. I haven't tried the newer N360.

There are several downsides.

First they are quite heavy and quite inefficient, neither of which matters too much with an electric assist. The N360 is supposed to be smaller, lighter, and more efficient.

The manual shift model required two full turns to shift from the lowest gear to the highest gear, and the full twist shifter could not be turned at all when under power. The newer model N360 only requires a partial turn to shift from the lowest gear to the highest gear, and apparently can be shifted under power.

The auto shift model does shift under power, and since a servo motor does the shifting for you the fact it takes four full turns from the lowest gear to the highest gear is of no concern. However, there are a lot of pieces required and I would only recommend it's use on a trike. Along with the electric motor controller and throttle there is also the NuVinci shift controller, a DC/DC converter to power the NuVinci shift controller, the NuVinci servo unit that does the actual shifting, and a speed pick-up.

I have no idea how long these things will last. I've had some noise issues and swapped one unit out, but the unit never failed to work properly. May just be a bearing issue, but haven't been motivated to tear into it, since a new unit was available for $150 at the time. Others have reported some issues with oil leaks, etc., but I think mostly when they were pushing them with several 1,000 Watts.
 
My dilemma of derailleurs vs IGH's was over after I pictured a situation where something goes wrong, like in these videos:

[youtube]NSRBWNUeocI[/youtube]

[youtube]QtRu3OmhFlg[/youtube]

And, by far, my favorite:

[youtube]5AMAXM5W2OU[/youtube]

Basically, it's all great and fancy, and maybe even more efficient, but when you can't ride it after something happens on the inside, that becomes a big problem. With exposed gears, they're pretty much attached to the hub inside the wheel, if the derailleur doesn't work, you can always switch manually to the gear of your choice, and keep moving. Not so with IGH's.
 
--freeride-- said:
On the BBS01 there is no space for a dual chainring. Itis not possible to run smaller sprockets than 46 with proper chainallignment. The secondary gear-stage is kind of where the sprocket should be and the sprocket is going around that. Anyway the motor is strong and If you want to go up steep hills get yourself a Sram XX1 rear detaileur with 42t in the back. But even with 34 or 36 in the back this Motor is good for Hillclimbing.

As the Sram XX1 is realy expensiv there are several possibilities to build your own Costom XX1 with a normal 10/1 rear cassette. You take out one of the smaller rings an add a 42t gib ring on the insight.

medium_IMG_1687.JPG
Click to expand...

I do like the idea of the befang mid drive but not having ability to add multiple chainrings for riding up-hills without power is a deal breaker for me (I don't want a scooter all the time, I want to exercise as well). If they had built the secondary gear-stage on left side so standard multiple chainrings could be used on right side then it would have been perfect for my needs and more capable climber to boot. Seems to me that they replaced the chainring to allow powering without pedaling which is against EU regulations anyway so perhaps they will eventually provide an alternative solution for people that just need maximum assist up the steepest of hills. This mid drive will not climb hills as well as the stoke-monkey etc, shame.
 
glend said:
I do like the idea of the befang mid drive but not having ability to add multiple chainrings for riding up-hills without power is a deal breaker for me (I don't want a scooter all the time, I want to exercise as well). If they had built the secondary gear-stage on left side so standard multiple chainrings could be used on right side then it would have been perfect for my needs and more capable climber to boot. Seems to me that they replaced the chainring to allow powering without pedaling which is against EU regulations anyway so perhaps they will eventually provide an alternative solution for people that just need maximum assist up the steepest of hills. This mid drive will not climb hills as well as the stoke-monkey etc, shame.
Click to expand...
A note on exercising - all you have to do is ease up (or technically, ease down) on the throttle.
 
Rollodo said:
glend said:
A note on exercising - all you have to do is ease up (or technically, ease down) on the throttle.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Yes but if they didn't modify the normal chainrings I wouldn't have to resort to powering up all the hills anyway so for me its just wasting power when I don't need too. Stoke-monkey doesn't, it leaves chainring intact, but also allows power through granny gear, so has massively more torque for steeper hills than befang - so best of both worlds. Unfortunately stoke monkey won't fit my recumbent (baccheta bella) so have to build my own or just go with a MAC hub in front 20" wheel.
 
This kit will easily fit smaller sprockets, just not in as tight a chain line. No deal killer here. I am hoping to do a dual front chain ring on one when fit on the correct higher speed bike for it. Also the Stock sprocket looks perfect to use as a spyder for other rings if your handy and want to start fresh.
 
Melbourne said:
http://cyclurba.fr/forum/231178/moteur-pn-dalier-bafang-bbs01.html?from=1251&discussionID=11651&messageID=272124&rubriqueID=102&pageprec=

Who sells these things? I'd like to order some.

Click to expand...
 
Hi all, I've got one of these 750w kits on order. First time builder. Mechanical technician by trade so bolting bits together should be no problem but have a few questions about a battery. Anyone know what is the max input voltage on the 48v kit?
I'm thinking of running eight of these http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__26801__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack_UK_Warehouse_.html four series two parallel , I know there Lipo's, and will blow up and kill me. Any other recommendations ? I think I'm after a 10ah. Thanks in advance. Steve.
 
Welcome Steve

Going to 16 cells in series (16s) may be pushing it a bit at around 65 volts off the charger, but it may work without doing controller damage. Risky not knowing. 3 of these bricks in series,12 series cells (12s) are around 50 volts hot off the charger and where I am planning on running my setup at least for the first go. Makes charging a bit simplier also.
 
scriberman said:
...I know there Lipo's, and will blow up and kill me. Any other recommendations ? I think I'm after a 10ah. Thanks in advance. Steve.
Click to expand...
There are definitely other types of cell chemistry out there, LiFePo4 being the safest of all Lithium types. Not sure what your budget considerations are, but take a look at Paul's Em3ev site - http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=35.
 
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