New Bafang Crank-Drives

speedmd said:
Independent tests do not show what the makers marketing department shows. Just saying :(

Do you think BBS01/02 will fit a cannodale bad boy? Are they running BB30?... Think of upgrading to a bad boy!
 
wOw
at those comments, the guy seems to have a world view entitlement disorder, holding a grudge about a comment written 18 months ago and quoting it back to you while blaming you for his misery.

Given his form, you can't scientifically rule out PEBKAC as the root cause of this reported failure.

edit: Oh I didn't even notice that recoveringhuman hijacked anontrol's post!
That makes the comment even crazier, writing as if he is anontrol with a personal grievance.
 
spinningmagnets said:
reddit member "anontrol" has reported that he bought two of the BBS02 units direct from China (through Ali-XX?), and has reported that both of them have a defective controller. The bad units are marked "C950 V4.0", though I suspect the version type is not a bad design so much as middle-men are selling factory QA reject units through third parties.

http://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/1xd06b/warning_defective_bbs02_48v_25a_bafang_8fun/

Thanks for the headsup spinner.

Perhaps he should have supported local business and bought a unit with warranty and support. Although to be clear, its sound like "recoveringhuman" is being the rude prick, not "anontrol". Sounds like he still has quite a bit of "recovery" to go.
 
Melbourne said:
speedmd said:
Independent tests do not show what the makers marketing department shows. Just saying :(

Do you think BBS01/02 will fit a cannodale bad boy? Are they running BB30?... Think of upgrading to a bad boy!

I have it mounted to a nice used santa cruz mtn bike now, but see no significant issues mating it to the old bad boy ultra. Its a standard english 68mm shell with square drive bb. 2003 vintage. Much quieter than the chain primary drive modded gng 1 kit and may end up there.
 
speedmd said:
Independent tests do not show what the makers marketing department shows. Just saying :(

rohloff_hub_efficiency.gif


bad testing equipment.
i dont ride with 50W....

08-big.png
 
Paul (cell_man) at em3ev.com just posted on his home page that he will be carrying the Bafang BBS02, 36V/350W and the 48V/750W. This is good news. Paul QA's all his products because he stands behind his warranty. If you are committed to replacing failed components, you take the time to test before shipping so you don't have to waste time with that particular headache (just like Justin at ebikes.ca/Grin tech).
 
Hi Guys,

Do you thinks its possible to mount Bafang on this frame? I know little mods may be necessary because tight pivot clearance - but anyway it is possible?

Thanks

Tomas
 

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bad testing equipment.
i dont ride with 50W....

Yes agree, gearbox drag losses are more easily hidden with more power. Lubes and temperature also effect things a bit. :wink: Your chart / test method fails to include a chain tensioner. Yes they can be setup with out one if you have horizontal drop outs or eccentric bb setup, but not for most folks using them with vertical drop outs. I am not here to beat up on the hub, and agree that it is a work of engineering art but think you should start a new thread to fully explore its use with other hubs on any ebike and not distract for this kit's thread. They are undoubtedly very good when new, but would like to see how they fair as they age also. Love to read more that is a honest independent real life representation of all of them.

cheers
 
deepfraught said:
speedmd said:
Yes agree cheers
I agree too, put my response off to a blog post

Some perspective from a hub lover that will not use a Rohloff yet....

nice bashing
i use it my friend..

and i have used 9speed 10 speed, Alfine 8/11 and N360

if u like your derailleur dont bash the others
 
In case you wonder if you are on the bleeding edge of the real electric vehicle revolution, check out this report from Bill Bushnell.

http://mrbill.homeip.net/bikeBlog.php?2014#lkMegaMonsterEnduro.2014.02.08

http://mrbill.homeip.net/albums/lkMegaMonsterEnduro.2014.02.08/single-image/20140208-DSC04376-photo.html#anchor
 
tomtom said:
Hi Guys,

Do you thinks its possible to mount Bafang on this frame? I know little mods may be necessary because tight pivot clearance - but anyway it is possible?

Thanks

Tomas

The unit does have an issue with clearance for the main gear case (the back of the round thing that sits immediately behind the chainring). I struck this on a socket-style (ie; lugged) BB shell with round 7/8" diameter chainstays. Basically the small corner (made where the flat back of the gear case angles forward) presses into the chainstay as it angles out from the BB shell.

I solved this by putting a cassette spacer between shell and motor unit but this didn't leave a lot of thread on the other end to secure the whole shebang into the BB shell. The spacer was probably 2mm too thick and a longer-term solution would have been to simply put a small crease or dent in the chainstay - something I'd do if this wasn't just a test bike.

I presume the BBSxx is designed mostly for modern bikes that have oval-shaped &/or welded chainstays and plenty of clearance. It appears to me that if your chain stay (or whatever else is happening immediately behind the BB) remains inline with or within the plane of the right-hand BB face for 1.25"-1.5" (around 35mm) to the rear of the BB you'll be OK. In other words, if a ruler placed across the right-hand face of the BB does not strike the chainstay for 35mm or so the unit will fit OK (with respect to this clearance issue anyway).

Savvas.

Note: have edited incorrect measurements above!
 
Thank you very much for answer. I check everything out and maybe i will try cardboard model "simulation". I will use dimension from BBS manual.
 
spinningmagnets said:
Paul (cell_man) at em3ev.com just posted on his home page that he will be carrying the Bafang BBS02, 36V/350W and the 48V/750W. This is good news.

Further information - Paul told me on the 10th:

"The BBS02 kits can also be offered with HWBS sensors, which can be used with any mechanical brake and means you do not need to swap the levers. We might not have that option immediately, but it should be available soon...
...we may be able to change the software, this is more to change speed settings, assist levels etc, it is is not to completely re-write the software. It's still early days to comment on this in great detail...
...The main advantage you will get from the BBS02 kit versus a Mac kit, is better performance and efficiency on the steepest gradients. I do not think it will make a significant difference to efficiency and therefore range in other situations. [I suspect Paul may qualify this a little - he notes that he doesn't yet have direct experience of the BBS02 unit]....
We should have the kits within the next 1 or 2 weeks I estimate."

Savvas.
 
Has anyone 26"used a BBS02 with the same battery on both a 700c and 26" bike? what are the top speeds with highest pedelec setting(5 or 9") vs using throttle? can the 750w move a 28 or 29" faster than a 26"? a 26" bike is easier to fit into cramped spaces, a large frame 29" or 700c takes up a HUGE space in a small apmt. a 26" is 3" shorter just by wheel size.
 
It depends upon the gearing on the bike, but if both have the same gearing this should be an idea of the speed difference "700\35 running 11-38 @ 80rpm is 22.3
26\1.9 running 11-38 @ 80rpm is 21.2" stolen from here http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-106170.html
 
Kepler said:
So Paul, what was this race all about? I presume a 100mile road race with road bikes? I presume you took the event out. What margin did you win by? In PAS mode and 48 / 11 gearing, you would be putting in a fair bit of effort to stay at 40 to 45kph. Good road riders do this sort of speed easily. Or where you going quicker than that on PAS? 30ah for a 100miles at race speeds is good economy.

Kepler, this is a 100 mile time trial. Results are here: http://megamonster.lowkeyhillclimbs.com/2014/results.html
I averaged 26 mph, the next fastest was 21mph. TdF stages of this length often average 26mph, but those guys are not human (and drafting is of course allowed).
Yes, I would have been more efficient at high speeds to have a larger chainring than the 48. I ran out of time before the race to make a 130mm chainring adaptor. The PAS was set up to cut-out at 25mph, so I used throttle above those speeds (or legs), and I had 40ah on board. I used 39!
 
speedmd said:
Hi PaulD

Great job on the record ride. I also want to try this kit on a cross bike later this summer and wondering what you think it can handle for chain rings. Thinking of trying possibly a 56 tooth for flat road riding. 52 or 53 at a minimum.

Thanks speedmd. I'm not sure that I got the course record. On MrBill's blog, it says he got a faster time in 2011. I think 53 would be plenty, but it all depends on how fast you want to go (and how fast you want to eat up battery).
 
PaulD,

On MrBill's blog, it says he got a faster time in 2011.

Yup. He kicked your butt. He was over 3% faster, and used just over 93% as much energy. But he had an unfair advantage with his streamliner. Next time use one of these. :)

http://vitebikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/IMG_3672E-t.jpg

Laidback recumbents and mid-drives are like peanut butter and jelly!!
 
Sounds like you got the record paudD for a upright even if you were using clip ons :wink: Good Job. I like to pedal the 53- 15 -13 on the flats and something like this kit seems it would be a good motor pacing tool on light settings. Were the 25mm tires a bit too uncomfy. Thinking 28 or 32mm for the Jake. I can ride them a bit softer that way also.
 
Kepler said:
ttle burst often just isn't needed. When you have you power setting at max, the push button will give you 100% throttle.....
file.php

Would you care to guesstimate a pair of resistors, which will give just a gentle push to get the bike started for a person who can't get the grasp of using a pedal to start in stead of having one foot on a 6 o'clock pedal and the other on the ground, pushing away?

Speaking of my son and my wife, not to mention 80% of the female cyclists I encounter. :evil:

My father wouldn't let me ride a bike until I had learned to mount the bike and take off in one sweeping manly way, with my left foot on the pedal in 11 o'clock position, pushing down while swinging my right leg around as the bike started moving.
Now I have ride step-through bikes with huge panniers, and mount and dismount like a woman.
 
eride said:
How do these affect chainline? Mounting the chainring onto the inside of the adapter (as pictured) would help. but will it still locate the chainring further away than the factory dished chainring supplied with the drive?

As far as I can meassure it's only about 3-4mm the chainline is moved out with this new adapter.[/quote]

I would be interested in the 5-hole 130 BCD, but i was wondering if you could post a frontal picture from the bafang motor with your chainring installed? I wonder how much space we could gain by using washers between the adapter and the chainring before the chainring or the bolts will touch the engine housing. Only problem looks like the protruding axle on the bottom of the engine.
 
ErikDK said:
Kepler said:
ttle burst often just isn't needed. When you have you power setting at max, the push button will give you 100% throttle.....
file.php

Would you care to guesstimate a pair of resistors, which will give just a gentle push to get the bike started for a person who can't get the grasp of using a pedal to start in stead of having one foot on a 6 o'clock pedal and the other on the ground, pushing away?

Speaking of my son and my wife, not to mention 80% of the female cyclists I encounter. :evil:

My father wouldn't let me ride a bike until I had learned to mount the bike and take off in one sweeping manly way, with my left foot on the pedal in 11 o'clock position, pushing down while swinging my right leg around as the bike started moving.
Now I have ride step-through bikes with huge panniers, and mount and dismount like a woman.

The easiest solution would be to replace the 1.2k resistor with a 5k trim potentiometer and adjust by trial and error. it will allow you to set it to exacly the assist he needs.
 
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