New Bafang Crank-Drives

lazy_mosquito said:
This is the same for Europe. The 750W Bafangs from lcrewse cost 750$ + shipping (150$?) and then another 21% import duty in Europe over the total price which makes roughly 1080$ for a Bafang. The whole idea of chinese import is that they are a littlebit of lesser quality but cheaper then European engines. 1080$ is not exactly cheaper then our engines. :mrgreen:
So i am also thinking of bying a bafang from em3ev but as far as i know he is also not able to deliver bafangs with a modified software, hence thats why i am looking for a way to connect another controller to the bafang. But as far as i can see is this one of the most treasured secrets of this forum. :? i seems most people don't know how to do it, and the people who knows don't answer the question.

Is there somebody on endless-sphere who knows how to connect an external controller to the Bafang or know somebody else who knows how to do it?

I don't know how to connect an external controller, but am not sure that is the best way to achieve your goals. If it is essential, you will need to unscrew the motor and start mucking around because the controller is built in (which in my opinion is one of its best features... less clutter, less exposed to the elements). You would need to find the cables that go to the motor and splice in your controller. In doing so, you will void the warranty and may discover that the BBS01 motor is engineered differently than hub motors and your controller is not compatible. I was told by the factory rep that it is a different design, but cannot determine what that means. However, from your comments, it suggests you would prefer to have a modified internal controller to achieve specific outcomes. The comments from the American importer suggest that he accomplishes his goals by changing the firmware and tailoring the software. You might want to correspond with the American to see if for a fee, he would walk you through the changes after you ordered the motor direct from China rather than adding the double shipment. But...

First, I would suggest you correspond with em3ev (Paul) rather than presume he is not able to custom program. The built-in controller is programmable, Bafang does supply the codes to some people, but it may take a while to get the precise information to set them up as desired. Paul is just getting into these motors, but his reputation is stellar.

Second, Bafang is learning. They listen. The CST motor was an idea submitted by a member of this forum, if I recall correctly. There are some things Bafang does not wish to see, most notably pushing the motors beyond their engineering safe specs. For example, a colleague of mine has a dead CST hanging on the wall that he tried to run on a 50v battery - burned it out. But, they do want to be the best in market, so work out what they need to do to get there.

I would suggest that you start a new thread on this forum called "Features I would like to see on the Bafang BBS01/02 motor" and try to control it so that it does not get cluttered up with off-subject comments. If it is good, I will alert my contact at the factory and ask him to read it. Please keep it simple and realistic. Bafang is not interested in damaging their reputation by pressing the envelope too far. They are interested in market growth and being market responsive. Also, if you are willing to wait, Bafang does send representatives to the major trade shows in Europe. That's the best place to establish a personal relationship that may help you attain your goals. Just remember that they prefer selling wholesale... 30,000 unit orders from major bike makers rather than my 30 unit order. That's why we need someone like Paul who will buy in bulk and sell by unit. (footnote: Bafang supplies them in boxes of four. If you buy four at a time, Paul does not need to unpack and repack to ship out. If you can afford it, buy four, or find three friends to go in with you). But if your ideas are ones that broadly improve the product, they will listen. I know, because some of my ideas showed up on the most recent order. Whether they listened to me, or to the early adopters in Europe is unknown, but the fact is that it is a better motor.

The features that I have proposed to Bafang are as follows:

  • Decouple Thumb Throttle from speed settings (note, this seems to have been done with some, but not all of the units they sent to us)
  • Design display so it can be removed and replaced with an analogue on/off and 1-2-3 mechanical switch for immediate power change (pressing a button three times is poor ergonomics). The display is most likely the first thing to fail and replacement with a 1-2-3 switch will extend life. For some who want stealth look or who will rent bikes, no display is better
  • Design it to work with a Shimano/SA three-speed internal hub (and more speeds). We find that three speeds is really all that is needed, but with an internal hub, the chain cannot be moving when shifting. The motor has a lag.
  • Provide shorter cables with extensions for bikes that need it - eliminate cable clutter
  • Provide a better-looking chain guard - the plastic looks cheap; nicer plastic or aluminium. Provide an optional hockey stick guard as well
  • Sell it with the black C695 display; offers a lot more features than the C691
  • Provide the battery connector to the battery supplier so the whole kit uses the waterproof Bafang connectors
 
BBS02 stator is 5mm wider than the BBS01, The BBS01 is wound so that it spins at the designed motor RPMs at 36V, the BBS02 has a different winding and the motor spins at the same RPMs at 48V. That way they can both use the same mechanical reduction.
 
lazy_mosquito said:
I will contact Paul from em3ev to check if they can change anything from the programming of the BBS02.

Paul has assured me that although he expects to be able to alter programming to some degree it will involve changing existing settings rather than 'rewriting' the controllers programme per se.

To quote: "Yes, we may be able to change the software, this is more to change speed settings, assist levels etc, it is is not to completely re-write the software. It's still early days to comment on this in great detail."

Sounds to me something like what the US distributor also offers. I reckon we have to be patient and wait until em3ev get all the issues sorted out to their satisfaction.

Savvas
 
Has anyone considered this with while also having a DD hub with a 6speed rear fw? Say you were running a hs3540 for flats at 96volts. and then a BBS02 on the front with a 48v10ah batt for climbing hills. Little extra weight. but essentially a 1hp torque boost for hills and you wouldnt have to run shit for amps through the DD.
 
CdnE90 said:
No worries about using Lipos? Especially considering what happened to Chalz (and many others)?

It's usually peoples charging technique that starts the fire. I have not seen anything point directly at lipo as the cause.

I'm very interested in the fire Chalz had. He describes balancing and then bulk charging. This says to me he was bottom balancing. A practice I would expect to cause problems as the pack got old and capacity started to vary amongst the cells.
 
Hello,
as I live in quite hilly surroundings and being not a strapping young colt anymore the question arose what to fit in my WAW velomobile to make cycling the joy it once was. You are right - e-assist. The choice fell on the new Bafang BBS01 350W with a C 963 display and for a battery a LiFePo4 36V 11,5A . First thing I disconnected the PAS sensor plug because I have got a Rohloff hub working in the rear wheel and read about the motor's peculiarity of not shutting off immediately after one quits pedalling . The brake levers which shutt off the motor immediately and which one could use as a sort of clutch I did not want to fit. That left me with the thumb throttle alone to accelerate (works only well with assist level 3 on the display).
When installing the whole system, which is really very easy, only one slight problem arose : the space to move your feet when pedalling in my velomobile is somewhat constricted and the BBS01 builds quite wide. But after fitting 155mm straight cranks it all worked well , although there is hardly room for a sheet of paper between my shoes and the inner wall.
I clocked 1100 km so far , mostly in town and in the hilly surroundings (100 m of elevation for each 10km, with short hills of sometimes 14 to 16% ) . Driving the velomobile with this configuration is a real joy, one can apply power when it is needed (uphill and to accelerate in traffic) , the motor is very quiet and accelerates smoothly. One can reach speeds of 40kmh on the flat very quickly and then cruise on on your own power. Hills of 14% and 1,2km in lenghth I drive up with the Rohloff in 6th gear and with 14kmh. On top the motor is hardly warmer than my hand. By the way I only use the throttle when pedalling I never go by motor alone.

For me driving like that is almost like a symbiosis between man and machine .

E-WAW 023.JPG

baf3 008.JPGView attachment 1

Hope you enjoyed!
 

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The machine as shown here ( with motor and battery ,complete lighting and even a small repair kit) weighs 40,6 kg , this is as velomobiles go, quite heavy ,but for a velomobile with e- assist quite light (confusing , I am sorry) and without e-assist I can manage 30 kmh over a longer period. This is , for an unassisted , lightweight velomobile( say 28 kg) very little (I am rapidly nearing 70years of age , the young guys manage 45 to 60 top speed , even for an hour. But these speeds can only be maintained when you don't have to stop often, because accelerating costs speed and strength.
But , as I said , the motor makes you feel young once more :)!
 
speedmd,

"A smart- quiet motor setup maybe. :?"

Commercial mid-drives have also been around for at least 15 years. I think the phrase you are looking for is, "really inexpensive"

Don't get me wrong. I am excited about all the lithium batteries and drive systems coming out of China too. But if you think price is what has kept Americans from embracing efficient transportation, you will be very disappointed.
 
Rudolf,

"But after fitting 155mm straight cranks it all worked well"

A very nice machine. I am really glad to see that lower Q cranks will fit, and clear the drive. Any idea how much narrower your Q is now?

http://sheldonbrown.com/images/stronglight-q-diagram.jpg
 
I've borrowed a jig to shorten cranks from a recumbent builder, since he has found out that shorter cranks work better than standard 170mm cranks in their application.
 
I think the phrase you are looking for is, "really inexpensive"

Funny, I didn't know you knew me that well. :oops: Seriously, I never gave the enclosed trike a thought as a pedal only vehicle. Too much into bikes I guess. Never seen one in our area either.

I does look to be a great transportation option with the lower cost efficient pedelec mid drive setup.
 
speedmd,

"I never gave the enclosed trike a thought as a pedal only vehicle."

Yes. Without a motor, they only make sense in the Great Plains, or Holland. Even with a motor, a velomobile is more likely to get wacked by an SUV than a singletrack vehicle, which can take the ditch. LEVs could solve many of our problems, given their own roads. Our problems are not technological, but social.
 
@ Warren
About the Q -factor: the distance from the points where the pedals are mounted are of course unalterable . But if you can fit slender and straight crankarms the distance your feet (shoes) are from one another will be smaller. Then mount the fixing plates ( Shimano SPD system in my case) as far to the outside of your shoes as possible this will bring the feet nearer to the crank arm. I even drilled 3mm into each pedalthread hole so that the whole pedal moved in that amount. It is now exactly 36cm from the outer edge of the left pedal to the outer edge of the right pedal. That is quite a lot compared to upright bikes and I can imagine that some people would find it akward that the feet are placed that far apart. But , as I said , I don't touch sides (if barely) and meanwhile are used to it . So far no ill effects.
Regards
Rudolf
 
speedmd,

"Another possibility for foot room is to use the kit in a jack shaft arrangement and use a standard narrow crank to drive into the kits bb by adding a second bb axle mounted sprocket to it."

If you are going to all that trouble it will be easier, and possible cheaper to do Stokemonkey-style mid-drive.
 
Rudolf,

"if you can fit slender and straight crankarms the distance your feet (shoes) are from one another will be smaller...I even drilled 3mm into each pedalthread hole so that the whole pedal moved in that amount."

OK. We are having some communication problems. Q, as shown in the jpg,

http://sheldonbrown.com/images/stronglight-q-diagram.jpg

is not measured at the point where the crankarms attach to the bottom bracket axle, but the point where the pedals attach to the crankarms. So you have reduced your Q by 6 mm by counterboring the pedal holes. But I assume you also reduced it by some amount with the thinner, straight crankarms. Any idea how much?
 
Warren,
thank's for correcting me, jes I got that mixed up.
Compared to the original Bafang cranks (which are pretty straight though) you gain on each side exactly 3mm.That makes 6 mm in the cranks and another 6mm through boring , 12mm all in all.
But the WAW is very narrow in front, there are velomobiles in which there is more room.
I enclose a picture how I measured the cranks. Clamped them down and then got the measurements with sliding callipers.

cranks 003.JPG

Rudolf
 
I finished modding my 2001 Trek 7700 cross with the BBS01 and took a 26 mile ride yesterday. I used the kit and 36v 14.5Ah battery from LectricCycles.com. I used level 2 assist most of the time, and level 3 for the last 5 mile uphill stretch. Average speed was about 14MPH. I didn't use the throttle at all except for a couple of spurts to see what it felt like. At the beginning of the ride the fully charged battery measured 40.1V, and at the end 37.9V. The battery indicator on the 961 never budged off 4 bars. Recharge after the ride took about 2 hours.
This is really encouraging as I was fretting over range limitations. I'm 75 years old and ride for recreation and fitness, not for speed. Now I'm not so worried about getting stranded on a 40 mile jaunt.
A couple of notes on the installation: I didn't like the way the cables came out of the bottom of the motor through a somewhat loose grommet. I used liquid tape from Ace Hardware to seal that up, as well as sealing the cable grommet on the downtube mounting bracket. While I was at it, I sealed the rear of both the 2 pin connectors between the battery and the motor where the wires went into the connectors. I also swapped out the flat handlebars for classic north shore handlebars to get a more upright riding position.
The Trek original equipment had integrated brake/shift levers that had to go, as the BBS01 has its own brake levers, and since the front derailleur is removed, no shift lever is required on the left. I put the thumb throttle on the left. On the right, I used a Sram twist 9 speed to replace the Shimano rapid fire. The only other major change was replacing the front V-brake with an Avid BB7 disk. I had to buy a new front wheel to mount the disk. Fortunately the existing front fork had mounting holes for the BB7.
Overall, I'm very happy with the conversion and look forward to riding 3 or 4 thousand miles this summer.
UpRider
 
Yo! My odometer is stuck at 999 kilometers. It seems that it can't count any further.
Can it be reseted?
 
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