New Bafang Crank-Drives

tomjasz said:
amigafan2003 said:
Why are people trying to jury rig scokets and use hammer and chisels etc - just buy the proper tools - they aren't expensive:-

Inner lockring:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-C-Spanner-Shock-Wrench-Small-38mm-52mm-/350267911163?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
Outer lockring:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-STEEL-BOTTOM-BRACKET-INSTALL-TOOL-FOR-SHIMANO-HOLLOWTECH-II-UK-Q33-/170873727732?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
I have those tools, but with a 1/2" drive socket modified to have lugs I can use my torque wrench. I have a $200 wrench from my scooter work. I figure I may as well use it and use the Bafang torque specs. So far it works for me. But then I'm not yet that accomplished of a bike mechanic as I tend to over or under torque by hand. Same with the Shimano tool I posted. I can set the proper torque. Now before someone feels the need to chide me, it's a practice that works for me. Never a "you should" from this camp!

I've got three Britool toque wrenches - 2.5-11nm, 12-68nm and 70-330nm - but I still like the "one white knuckle, two white knucles, three white knuckles" occasionally - and when you've been working on bikes for so long your hands remember the toque.
 
amigafan2003 said:
when you've been working on bikes for so long your hands remember the toque.
Thanks! I do get that! I look forward to the day!
 
tomjasz said:
amigafan2003 said:
when you've been working on bikes for so long your hands remember the toque.
Thanks! I do get that! I look forward to the day!
To quote from Wikipedia "The technique suffers from inaccuracy due to inconsistent or uncalibrated friction between the fastener and its mating hole." Unfortunately that quote is unreferenced but it correlates with a research paper I remember once reading for which I also can't find the reference. My recollection from that paper is that trying to achieve a particular bolt tension by tightening to a particular torque is so inaccurate, it is barely worth doing "but often torque is the only practical means of measurement", again from Wikipedia.

It fitted with my perception from observation and I've not bothered with a torque wrench since I read that, a long time ago.
 
Ken Taylor said:
tomjasz said:
amigafan2003 said:
when you've been working on bikes for so long your hands remember the toque.
Thanks! I do get that! I look forward to the day!
To quote from Wikipedia "The technique suffers from inaccuracy due to inconsistent or uncalibrated friction between the fastener and its mating hole." Unfortunately that quote is unreferenced but it correlates with a research paper I remember once reading for which I also can't find the reference. My recollection from that paper is that trying to achieve a particular bolt tension by tightening to a particular torque is so inaccurate, it is barely worth doing "but often torque is the only practical means of measurement", again from Wikipedia.

It fitted with my perception from observation and I've not bothered with a torque wrench since I read that, a long time ago.
I seldom base decisions on wikipedia and even less on research papers I once read. My journey through recovering health and diet has provided hundreds of papers that contradict each other. There are so many variables. We each do as we see fit. I'm happy that you find comfort in your decision. I find the same comfort in mine. But hen push comes to shove all that's truly important to me here is that as a community we share experiences and base our own on that shared knowledge, or not. :D Thanks for the link! Not being an engineer, I tend to trust those who are, and set the specifications.
 
I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?
 
tomjasz said:
I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?

Have you measured the "fresh off charge" voltage of bolth packs? What cells do the packs use? Different cells/chemistries have different discharge curves.
 
tomjasz said:
But hen push comes to shove all that's truly important to me here is that as a community we share experiences and base our own on that shared knowledge, or not. :D
Of course. Thanks for responding. :D
amigafan2003 said:
tomjasz said:
I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?

Have you measured the "fresh off charge" voltage of bolth packs? What cells do the packs use? Different cells/chemistries have different discharge curves.
I've found that when the 36V BBS01is operated at common pedaling cadences the maximum power available from the motor is quite sensitive to battery voltage. See http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&start=325#p918557
 
I got one of those 50kph (31mph) limited BBS02 versions.

I found something fun for us non-metric people:

Multiply your tire diameter by .620 and set that to your tire size in the advanced setup, eg for 29" put in 18", for 26" put in 16"

Set the display to km/h.

Pretend the units displayed are mph, (because they will be) and enjoya 50 mph speed limit. Today I got my 29er up to 36 mph. :)

Don't kill yourself. :)
 
amigafan2003 said:
tomjasz said:
I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?

Have you measured the "fresh off charge" voltage of bolth packs? What cells do the packs use? Different cells/chemistries have different discharge curves.

No, but I will.

Samsung 10S 5P, 29E cells, 36V, 13.8Ah

The other pack is "10s5p Panasonic NCR18650PF 14.5ah" 11Ah

Second claims to have a better BMS rated for "50% higher current" than the first. But it is the slower pack.

I also keep asking both vendors for a better, faster, charger with level settings and keep striking out. Any ideas on finding a charger?
 
tomjasz said:
amigafan2003 said:
tomjasz said:
I have two BBS01 350W 36V motors from different suppliers, as well as two battery packs. One 11Ah and the other a 13.8Ah. I've noticed on one controller and bike, one battery provides a top speed of 20MPH and the other 17MPH when at 50% battery level. What the...? I haven't tried bothe batteries on the second motor yet. Can anyone enlighten me?

Have you measured the "fresh off charge" voltage of bolth packs? What cells do the packs use? Different cells/chemistries have different discharge curves.

No, but I will.

Samsung 10S 5P, 29E cells, 36V, 13.8Ah

The other pack is "10s5p Panasonic NCR18650PF 14.5ah" 11Ah

Second claims to have a better BMS rated for "50% higher current" than the first. But it is the slower pack.

I also keep asking both vendors for a better, faster, charger with level settings and keep striking out. Any ideas on finding a charger?

I believe the Panasonic PF cells have a worst voltage drop discharge curve than the 29E's. Why don't you swap batteries and see which one is the variable. That's the fastest way to know. But don't change the bike or the rider though. Keep everything else constant. And make sure the voltage starts off the same as when you ran your first test. Otherwise, it won't be a fair comparison.
 
nukezero said:
I believe the Panasonic PF cells have a worst voltage drop discharge curve than the 29E's.

Contrary to the sales pitch... But it's really not much of a problem since the slower battery is on the wives ride and she could care less. Just more of a curiosity.
 
Where Can I buy Bafang BBS02 750W 48V with updated controller at good seller? Without Em3ev.com (not in stock now).
 
sacko said:
Where abouts are you located?

If in the UK, see my signature.
Poland.
 
tumich said:
sacko said:
Where abouts are you located?

If in the UK, see my signature.
Poland but Your price is 25% more expensive than on an other guy from UK which offer kit's.
 
http://www.wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit

I'm only aware of Woosh bikes supplying the BBS01 units - only 3% cheaper and no 48v kit though
 
It offered me "roshan" from this forum. He is from Canada and also he give warrianty 12 months.
Maybe You can sell me this kit cheaper and we make a deal :)
 
skyungjae said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-HPC-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3cd85d49

It looks like Hi Power Cycles is in on these mid drives now too.

Considering that I have zero experience with these systems, are HPC's modifications necessary upgrades in your opinions?

It's only the chainring that's a mod and it'll mess up the chainline. If you want a smaller chainring it'll be cheaper (and have a better chainline) to use this one and buy the kit from another vendor.

IMAG07211_zpsa82edb0d.jpg
 
looks like they just bolted on a new chainring and reprogrammed it. If it's not a new 9fet controller then it's not worth it regardless of the mods.
I'm not a fan of HPC...I've no experience, but I don't trust them...their marketing is full of fuckery
 
Hello everyone. Just modified my build with the BBS02 48V 20A by changing the 48T crank to a 38T one. It's an "absoluteBlack XX1 style, 104/64BCD chainring" with an aluminium adapter for the BBS02.
Wish I'd seen this other reduced sized crank before buying the 38T one. Because of the chain alignment now I can't change up to 2nd or 1st as the motor throws the chain off the crank if I do, because of the poor alignment. Anybody else had this problem? With the new 38T crank (which lies flush against the motor) the chain lines up with 7th gear. The only solution I can see is to cut 6mm off the bike frame and move the motor further in. The problem then would be how to secure it on the other side as the bracket would have nothing to bite against.
 
I managed to bend the 34T pinion on my 11-34 rear freewheel group again on the weekend - one of the DMP epoch sets from Gloworm. I was hauling up a serious hill with three kids on the back of my wife's Yuba Mundo, and about 15kg of groceries, along with myself "in my winter coat" - too much winter food atm :) .

Looking at the 34t wheel at the back it was bent over sideways at the top, too much torque from the chain and too much weight on the bike I suspect!

I'm trying to think through different ways to strengthen it, perhaps from the back or a lasercut item of heavier gauge spliced in somehow. It just occurrred to me to look at the chainline as well, as this gear combo will be taking much more torque than any of the others, and if the chainline is not parallel to the 34T then it will be pulled sideways somewhat.

Yeah, that's a 3540 I've coupled it to. There's an Ezee up front as well. Both unpowered so far. 8)
New Picture.jpg
 
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