New Bafang Crank-Drives

[cwah]

I too read cwah's thread on his smoked motor. It was used, abused, overvolted, rusted and loaned out to some ham fisted "friend". Certainly out of warranty. I would refuse to do business with someone like cwah since he has a such a victim's mentality.
I am sure Paul has some good stories about him!

Just for your information dear em3v customers there isn't any warranties implied in his sales.

So out of warranty isn't a possibility because there isn't any.

All I was asking was support to fix the motor. Obviously, it's always good until you end up on a hard to fix issue.

Then time spent to help me fix the motor doesn't worth it. He ignored my last few emails so I gave up and now buy exclusively from bmsbattery and similar.

Support are the same. The only difference is the price in my opinion.

 

[tomjasz]

It looked like you got all the help in the world here. Nuff sour grapes. A vast majority here, did, and are, doing very well with excellent support from Paul. You can go ahead and refrain from stalking and trolling EM3ev. K?

 

[1KW]

anybody done any basic offroad/singletrack exploration with this bbs02 kit? 73mm bb is the largest it will fit? Would a older free ride frame be overkill?

I know its no GNG kit, however the 1200w it puts out with a fresh batt would be plenty with gears.

 

[cwah]

There are no trolling, just fact only fact:
- there are no warranties.
- my emails were ignored
- i won't buy again from them

That's it. You can have your opinion, but just let me express what happened to me and not trying to shut me down..

 

[neptronix]

Have fun with BMSBattery... :lol:

Paul can be slow to get back to emails. That is true. Summer and spring are really busy for him and i always hear complaints about his service on here around that time. Anyway, he has a good price on the BBS02's compared to others, so i am going with him and getting one of these soon.

 

[Tom L]

anybody done any basic offroad/singletrack exploration with this bbs02 kit? 73mm bb is the largest it will fit? Would a older free ride frame be overkill?

I know its no GNG kit, however the 1200w it puts out with a fresh batt would be plenty with gears.

Yep I've done a little though it's not great on my hardtail, I mostly ride fairly flat fire fighting access trails and sealed roads. Kepler does quite a bit (search for his posts).

Yep 73 is as big as you can go.

1200W is nothing to be sneezed at when you can select a suitable gear ratio. I'm limited to just 800W until I get a new controller but I still made it up some insanely steep and washed out gullies last weekend.

 

[kampua]

Hi, need some advice finding a suitable bike to convert to.

According to http://www.electricbike.com/ebikecomponents/ steel frame is more suitable than aluminum frame, chromoly frame preferred. But only cheap bikes comes with steel frame and most would not have disc brake.

What do you guys think of Alamode MTN 2.0 at $169 with chromoly steel frame? http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/p4849_alamode-mtn-2.html

How about this one? http://www.anaconda.com.au/Product/Bikes-and-Accessories/Bikes/Mens/mens-2014-express-bike

Will it be a problem if I convert an aluminum bike like a Giant Cypress DX? http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bikes/model/cypress.dx/12017/57464/

What about this used Se Dirt Flyer down hill mountain bike?
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/east-geelong/bicycles/se-dirt-flyer-downhill-mountain-bike-/1055013051

 

[amigafan2003]

According to http://www.electricbike.com/ebikecomponents/ steel frame is more suitable than aluminum frame, chromoly frame preferred. But only cheap bikes comes with steel frame and most would not have disc brake.

Steel frames only count if your mounting a rear motor. If you want to convert using a BBS system then all you need is a 68mm bb shell (you can use one with 73mm but chainline wont be great) with 6mm clereance around the outside on the bottom and you're good to go - that could be a steel, alloy or even carbon frame - the frame material doesn't matter. You can even fit to a bike with hydraulics if you're willing to pull apart a brake switch and araldite the hall sensor in a place where it can be switched.

 

[maxwell92036]

I don't know why people want to put a $1000 plus motor and battery system on a crappy cheap bike? Weight and speeds go up so for safety sakes get a better quality bike with decent brakes. Bikes direct has some good value bikes that won't break the bank.

 

[tomjasz]

Steel frames only count if your mounting a rear motor.

I'm confused by that comment. Can a aluminum frame be reinforced with off the shelf bits to make it safe and workable? So much to learn..

Thanks!

 

[dumbass]

I'm confused by that comment. Can a aluminum frame be reinforced with off the shelf bits to make it safe and workable? So much to learn..

Thanks!

Like butts everyone has their opinions. No one is 100% right or 100% wrong ether. Personally I prefer to spend my money on the motor setup and pack rather spend huge bucks on the bike it's self. That being said however, I do want a bike that is well put together as far as the welds go. I see nothing wrong with an aluminum frame provided it meets your requirements (it may not handle as high a load for one thing). But I have motorized both alm. and steel and many here would classify all of them as cheap crap bikes. OK, fine. But for my interests of do normally 15mph on bike trails and now and then hitting the road and doing 25mph or so for short distances they work great.

The question of buying a high priced, cheap, Alm. or steel bike will always differ by person. Just as rim brakes versing disc brakes will. I personally do prefer a steel frame because I feel the Alm, frame had to much flex in it. But that could have just been that bike. And I am a big fan of 100% rim brakes too.

Bob

 

[amigafan2003]

Steel frames only count if your mounting a rear motor.

I'm confused by that comment. Can a aluminum frame be reinforced with off the shelf bits to make it safe and workable? So much to learn..

Thanks!

Anything can be made to work. Doctorbass torque arms for example epoxied on will be fine.

I was commenting on the article linked, which reconmends steel frames for hub motors - I was just poiting out that reconmendation doesn't apply for a BBS.

 

[CellBalance]

Hello all,

I have settled on using the Bafang 750 watt crank drive motor on my first ebike build.

Of course, you are aware of the shortage of the current stock of the 750 watt version, as apparently Bafang is changing the controller before releasing another batch of 750 watt motors to the suppliers.

I have two options--I can wait and purchase a NEW model with the new controller. How long could that be? Who knows--Paul at em3ev seems to be getting the run-around from Bafang on the new stock.

I have a source stateside that has a few of the OLD 750 watt Bafang motors (with the old controller), and I could order one now and have it in a week or so. This isn't SUPER imperative, as I don't have a battery yet, but it would move up my timeline considerably (all I would need is a battery and I can do the build). The price is good too for being a stateside retailer.

So, what exactly was wrong with the OLD 750 watt controller in the old set of motors? Is it worth waiting for the new stock and the new controller? Summertime is ticking away.....

The other issue is that the wiring harness was changed from all-black to color coded and the connectors pinouts as well. That means that the new motor works with the new harness and the new display connectors only. None of those are interchangeable with the older versions and vv, JSYK.

Weight & trailer drag pretty much adds up to WOT equivalence after all imho. :?

 

[samsavvas]

Hi, need some advice finding a suitable bike to convert to.

According to http://www.electricbike.com/ebikecomponents/ steel frame is more suitable than aluminum frame, chromoly frame preferred. But only cheap bikes comes with steel frame and most would not have disc brake.

What do you guys think of Alamode MTN 2.0 at $169 with chromoly steel frame? http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/p4849_alamode-mtn-2.html

How about this one? http://www.anaconda.com.au/Product/Bikes-and-Accessories/Bikes/Mens/mens-2014-express-bike

Will it be a problem if I convert an aluminum bike like a Giant Cypress DX? http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bikes/model/cypress.dx/12017/57464/

What about this used Se Dirt Flyer down hill mountain bike?
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/east-geelong/bicycles/se-dirt-flyer-downhill-mountain-bike-/1055013051

Really, the statement you refer to has to be taken with a grain of salt! And I think your own statement that 'only cheap bikes come with a steel frame' is a bit meaningless. There are cheap (as in rubbish) bikes as well as really great bikes made of both materials. More important than materials are bike design and quality. You first need to check that a bike or frame is the right size. I'd suggest that a good quality frame will be a better choice than a no-name super store bike. Jamis, Specialised, Giant and other 'names' all make excellent bikes in the cheaper price range. In Australia there's no need - if buying new- to buy a crap bike. It looks like it's best to get a frame with a 68mm bottom bracket shell - 73mm will work but as others have said, it may not be ideal. That Cypress is probably an ideal bike but I note the bend at the bottom of the down-tube (just visible through the chain wheels). This may point your motor housing downwards at a fairly radical angle. Not much of a problem on the road but watch out for gutters etc.

My personal presence (for everyday commuting) would be a good quality and versatile frame - steel rather than aluminium (but there's not much in it) - with fittings for guards and rack and a minimum number of gears at the back. Seven or eight speed is fine! You won't use more than the top 4 or 5 anyway and the larger the number of gears the more likely you'll run into difficulties with chain line etc. In fact I'm considering a new steel commuter bike from an excellent shop in Melbourne that's the same price as your Cypress but built with a light-weight, full chromoly frame and V-brakes that could have been tailor made for the BBS-xx! If I get one, I'll take the 7/8 speed cassette apart, put a spacer or 2 behind it and just stick with 5 or 6 speeds over a suitable range with the 6 cogs located as central to the chain line as possible.

Savvas.

 

[nioko]

It has been discussed, but I haven't found any detailed info. What's the max BB Shell wall thickness to fit the BBS02? I want to go Carbon, but I think that it won't work out

 

[Masure]

I've just been screwed with my build : Flyxii FR-217 carbon frame + BBS02 500W. I can't tell exactly how much clearance the BBS offer, I would say about 13mm. My carbon frame bottom bracket is 16mm thick and it doesn't fit.

 

[nioko]

I've just been screwed with my build : Flyxii FR-217 carbon frame + BBS02 500W. I can't tell exactly how much clearance the BBS offer, I would say about 13mm. My carbon frame bottom bracket is 16mm thick and it doesn't fit.

Sorry to hear that, and thanks for the Info.

I wanted to use a Planet-X / On-One Dirty Disco Frame, but they aren't able to tell me the thickness, since they don't have the frames at their office:

 

[kampua]

Hi, I found a universal brake sensor from lectriccycle, anyone used it before?

http://lectriccycles.com/products/universal-brake-sensors-for-bbs01-bbs02-mid-drive-kits

 

[0utrider]

How tight should the crank be?

After installation on the XR-Pro Mongoose, I found the pedaling resistance with no power to the unit to be manageable.

For my short test ride, I found that it was not very noticeable and would only be a factor for shaving time off a long ride.
I'm no longer worried I would be SOL should the battery will die on a longer trip.

Now on to my next challenge: Where to mount the Headway battery pack.

 

[tahustvedt]

I've just been screwed with my build : Flyxii FR-217 carbon frame + BBS02 500W. I can't tell exactly how much clearance the BBS offer, I would say about 13mm. My carbon frame bottom bracket is 16mm thick and it doesn't fit.

Sorry to hear that, and thanks for the Info.

I wanted to use a Planet-X / On-One Dirty Disco Frame, but they aren't able to tell me the thickness, since they don't have the frames at their office:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/imgs/products/px/950_constW/FROOCXD_P1.jpg

No guarantees, but from that picture it looks like it will fit. Measuring the width, pixel by pixel, of the hole and the widht of the bottom bracket wall it appears to be somewhere between 9-10 mm thick.

On-One is a great company. They make a lot of sensible and good quality stuff, and their store has really good prices. I've used them a few times.

 

[amigafan2003]

I've just been screwed with my build : Flyxii FR-217 carbon frame + BBS02 500W. I can't tell exactly how much clearance the BBS offer, I would say about 13mm. My carbon frame bottom bracket is 16mm thick and it doesn't fit.

Sorry to hear that, and thanks for the Info.

I wanted to use a Planet-X / On-One Dirty Disco Frame, but they aren't able to tell me the thickness, since they don't have the frames at their office:

Order it, if it doesn't fit return the frame under distance selling regs.

 

[nioko]

I've just been screwed with my build : Flyxii FR-217 carbon frame + BBS02 500W. I can't tell exactly how much clearance the BBS offer, I would say about 13mm. My carbon frame bottom bracket is 16mm thick and it doesn't fit.

Sorry to hear that, and thanks for the Info.

I wanted to use a Planet-X / On-One Dirty Disco Frame, but they aren't able to tell me the thickness, since they don't have the frames at their office:

Order it, if it doesn't fit return the frame under distance selling regs.

I'm in Switzerland, I don't think that this will work out. Shipping is pretty pricy as well.
I have asked again, hope they check, as I'd really love to order that frame (and the Bafang).

 

[johnrobholmes]

I got some great news today. The 750 I bought from Ebay for $450 + $105 shipping only lasted for 1 block when the motor stopped running. The seller offered to "try" to get any parts I found defective but after digging into the drive I decide it wasn't my problem to fix. So I notified the seller I was returning the drive and expected a full refund. I summited a claim with Ebay and with my credit card company (American Express).

Today I was notified by American Express that PayPay was refunding the full $555 I had paid. And no mention of returning the drive. I have already replaced to defective drive with a new 500w unit from Cal. Ebikes. So I guess the "defective drive will become my learning and spare parts drive. So I guess next week I'll be rereading all 115 pages of this thread and the other 8Fun threads to get ideas on how to check out the potential problems. My guess is there's a bad connection inside the motor somewhere and I just have to find it.
wish me luck!!

Bob

I also have a kit that has suddenly gone dead after 10 days of sheer joy. The controller will no longer turn on, appears dead. I finished riding for the day, disconnected battery, charged, plugged in next morning, nothing. There is no real explanation. All cables are properly connected, the battery is fully charged, has not been wet weather. Have been riding fairly conservatively. It is a 48v 500w kit with battery from EM3V. Waiting to hear back from Paul.

I also had one BB drive fail like this. After about 100 miles the motor had a short in it. Three out of four units I have purchased have failed. The freewheels are junk and when they fail it munches the gearsets with it.


I've put about 1000 miles on the BBs02 system. F-, I would never suggest the system to a customer. Between failures that Bafang refuses to respond about and the horrible efficiency, the kit is an overall hunk of junk. Where as I would get 36 to 40 miles on a charge with a regular bafang hub motor, I am now getting 16 to 18 miles averaging the same speed as before. To be sure that I'm not just going faster or driving harder, I turned down the amps from 20 to 15 and have paced my friend that rides a regular hub motor setup for many rides. To keep the amps down and efficiency highest I spool the motor up in the lowest gear possible to keep an equal speed to my friend. Still no change in range.


Overall, extremely displeased with all aspects of the bafang systems. The only place it could be useful is offroad IF it didn't destroy gears and internal freewheels so easily. I can pull more power from a DD hub motor, have no failures, and still get twice the range from the same pack and speed.



Don't waste your time with this system, there is nothing but disadvantages over hubmotors. Maybe another BB system can do better. Get a Grin Tech mid drive instead.

 

[skyungjae]

I got some great news today. The 750 I bought from Ebay for $450 + $105 shipping only lasted for 1 block when the motor stopped running. The seller offered to "try" to get any parts I found defective but after digging into the drive I decide it wasn't my problem to fix. So I notified the seller I was returning the drive and expected a full refund. I summited a claim with Ebay and with my credit card company (American Express).

Today I was notified by American Express that PayPay was refunding the full $555 I had paid. And no mention of returning the drive. I have already replaced to defective drive with a new 500w unit from Cal. Ebikes. So I guess the "defective drive will become my learning and spare parts drive. So I guess next week I'll be rereading all 115 pages of this thread and the other 8Fun threads to get ideas on how to check out the potential problems. My guess is there's a bad connection inside the motor somewhere and I just have to find it.
wish me luck!!

Bob

I also have a kit that has suddenly gone dead after 10 days of sheer joy. The controller will no longer turn on, appears dead. I finished riding for the day, disconnected battery, charged, plugged in next morning, nothing. There is no real explanation. All cables are properly connected, the battery is fully charged, has not been wet weather. Have been riding fairly conservatively. It is a 48v 500w kit with battery from EM3V. Waiting to hear back from Paul.

I also had one BB drive fail like this. After about 100 miles the motor had a short in it. Three out of four units I have purchased have failed. The freewheels are junk and when they fail it munches the gearsets with it.


I've put about 1000 miles on the BBs02 system. F-, I would never suggest the system to a customer. Between failures that Bafang refuses to respond about and the horrible efficiency, the kit is an overall hunk of junk. Where as I would get 36 to 40 miles on a charge with a regular bafang hub motor, I am now getting 16 to 18 miles averaging the same speed as before. To be sure that I'm not just going faster or driving harder, I turned down the amps from 20 to 15 and have paced my friend that rides a regular hub motor setup for many rides. To keep the amps down and efficiency highest I spool the motor up in the lowest gear possible to keep an equal speed to my friend. Still no change in range.


Overall, extremely displeased with all aspects of the bafang systems. The only place it could be useful is offroad IF it didn't destroy gears and internal freewheels so easily. I can pull more power from a DD hub motor, have no failures, and still get twice the range from the same pack and speed.



Don't waste your time with this system, there is nothing but disadvantages over hubmotors. Maybe another BB system can do better. Get a Grin Tech mid drive instead.

Definitely something to think about.

 

[joshseitz]

Hi, I found a universal brake sensor from lectriccycle, anyone used it before?

http://lectriccycles.com/products/unive ... drive-kits

I purchased two of these from Lectric Cycles, but I'm still waiting for my drive and battery from Paul. I hope the connectors will fit the supposedly new controller cable(?). I'd be interested to hear others feedback as well.