mclark999
100 W
Did you make your own case?Kepler said:
New Bafang Crank-Drives
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
tomjasz
1 GW
We're responding to someone who is basing all his opinions on youtube, articles, and posts. Not any experience with any mid drive. While all that information is helpful real world experience, in similar environments, to me, is critical to any sensible dialogue. The rest is... well... blather.KINNINVIEKID said:
tomjasz
1 GW
Search bafang san francisco and you'll come up with a couple of users. Good luck. Wish I was there to ride mine. I know a local chef and a bunch of scooter folks from my Vespa days.tungsten2k said:
opperpanter
100 W
So you're basing your opinion on me on 2 quick form posts? Or maybe *all* your opinions?tomjasz said:
I have yet to hear anyone say that the bafang or any other pas middrive is as smooth as the bosch or other torque based system.
Lots of evidence for the contrary from many people. And youtube. And website/blogs with reviews.
Was just trying to warn about not to expect the same experience from a pas system compared to torque system.
Go ride one first or ask around.
Your experience is that the bafang is just as smooth as the bosch?
KINNINVIEKID
1 kW
And my quoted post doesn't even mention Bosch or smooth,simply how my bike<that I ride every day, is set up!!
deepfraught
100 W
As a new user to the Bafang (previous mid-experience with a new Tornaro mid drive with Nuvinci N360 that never shifted under load)
- not sure of my standard settings yet, and there's a broad spectrum of how they have been programmed from factory/dealers, so not always apples and apples, right and wrong etc.
- least smooth thing I have found is not the PAS engagement, but delay to stop PAS for shifting, not nice when you want to keep your momentum/cadence up while climbing hills
- Kepler's circuits for killing PAS instantly on shift sound mandatory for a smooth ride, but unlikely for factory to implement it when they would put effort into a torque sensor model
- it sounds from anecdotes if you are able to customise software/hardware to your needs, you can get a smooth setup with cash saving and power benefits over top quality turnkey factory pedelecs.
- not sure of my standard settings yet, and there's a broad spectrum of how they have been programmed from factory/dealers, so not always apples and apples, right and wrong etc.
- least smooth thing I have found is not the PAS engagement, but delay to stop PAS for shifting, not nice when you want to keep your momentum/cadence up while climbing hills
- Kepler's circuits for killing PAS instantly on shift sound mandatory for a smooth ride, but unlikely for factory to implement it when they would put effort into a torque sensor model
- it sounds from anecdotes if you are able to customise software/hardware to your needs, you can get a smooth setup with cash saving and power benefits over top quality turnkey factory pedelecs.
astmacca
100 W
deepfraught said:
I have been riding the OH's Aseako (Tonaro clone) and found that just blipping the brake lever (to cut the motor) and hitting the shift button at the same time while pedalling gives me pretty smooth shift. Thats on a cluster /read deralier, not a NuVinci.
Hopefully when i put the Bafang on it will work much the same, although from what i have been reading i think the PAS on the Bafang will come back in somewhat faster than the Aseako / Tonaro so will have to see.
deepfraught
100 W
That's a good point with brake lever, I'm using hydraulic brakes though so no factory levers.
If I had the stock cable levers, it would just be like a rev matching race shift on motorcycle, blipping the throttle while braking and downshifting.
Since Kepler did the circuit of the throttle signal cutout being quicker, I can't ignore that now
On the Tornaro, the extra frustrating thing with stock N360 stepless is discrete gears you get used to 2 down for a particular hill etc.
So you might twist a bit with the N360, not be enough, try again, and then going back up, never really in the place you want to be right away like indexed shifting.
They have now an auto option like indexed trigger shift I think, but after a tyre wheel change exposing greased shifting mechanism, the dual cables etc. it was too many things to dislike distracting from enjoying the ride.
Nothing really simple shifts nicely under load, so cutting the load is the moral of the story, which I assume a turn-key pedelec like the Felt/Bosch example would do?
If I had the stock cable levers, it would just be like a rev matching race shift on motorcycle, blipping the throttle while braking and downshifting.
Since Kepler did the circuit of the throttle signal cutout being quicker, I can't ignore that now
On the Tornaro, the extra frustrating thing with stock N360 stepless is discrete gears you get used to 2 down for a particular hill etc.
So you might twist a bit with the N360, not be enough, try again, and then going back up, never really in the place you want to be right away like indexed shifting.
They have now an auto option like indexed trigger shift I think, but after a tyre wheel change exposing greased shifting mechanism, the dual cables etc. it was too many things to dislike distracting from enjoying the ride.
Nothing really simple shifts nicely under load, so cutting the load is the moral of the story, which I assume a turn-key pedelec like the Felt/Bosch example would do?
dirkdiggler
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2012
- Messages
- 641
You can back pedal quickly and it will cut off the PAS for shifting. I find that works well.
deepfraught
100 W
Great tip, thanks! That sounds like my lazy good-enough solution
I noticed while testing the wheel sensor range back-spin gives it a solid light, didn't think to try it!
I noticed while testing the wheel sensor range back-spin gives it a solid light, didn't think to try it!
beachcruiser
100 mW
deepfraught said:
where abouts is this outlined as i can't seem to find it? thanks
deepfraught
100 W
Here's Kepler's post, just searched for 'circuit' in this thread and eventually found it
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104&p=862086#p862086
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104&p=862086#p862086
kolby
10 mW
tungsten2k said:I'm this close --><-- to pulling the trigger on a 750w BBS02 kit but am concerned since I've never ridden any speed-sensing mid-drive. I did test ride the Felt with mid-drive Bosch setup at New Wheel here in SF and it was dreamy. If money weren't an object, I would buy it in a heartbeat (and from New Wheel - great shop). Obviously the Bafang can't match the smoothness of the Bosch torque sensing, but how "not close" ? Is there anyone with a BBS0x in SF willing to meet up to let me take a short ride on it ? Philz coffee is on me !
-=dave
Dave,
I'm not in SF, but a little further south in Palo Alto. I'd be happy to let you ride my Giant XTC with the BBS02 750W drive installed. While I have not ridden the Bosch drive, I find the PAS on the BBS02 very smooth. PM me if you want to give it a try.
- Michael
redcliffs-rider
10 µW
tumich said:
I have heard that http://lectriccycles.com sells them. they do not appear to be on the website,
so maybe they are only available if you buy a whole kit?
http://elektrolurchbike.de/osCommer...bafang-mittelmotor-umbausatz-36volt-250w-p-70
sells them as a 15 euro upgrade with the kit.
This website http://www.greengobikes.com/prodotto/display-lcd-c965/ list them at 75 euros but I have
never dealt with them so do not know how reliable they are.
Do a google search on "bafang c965" every week or two and more shops should have them over the next month or two.
Or ask your favourite AliExpress seller if they have them.
Paul
Geebee
1 kW
Is the speed sensor needed?
If so any reason I cannot set it up on the cranks? I dont care about speed reading.
I am looking at making the BBS01 self contained on a trike boom other than the battery.
If so any reason I cannot set it up on the cranks? I dont care about speed reading.
I am looking at making the BBS01 self contained on a trike boom other than the battery.
deepfraught
100 W
It throws err21 without speed sensor, but throttle worked when testing on stand. I didnt try PAS.
If programming it shouldnt be anything to stop you.
If programming it shouldnt be anything to stop you.
tomjasz
1 GW
C965 Specs
http://www.greengobikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/C965-800U-Specification.pdf
http://www.greengobikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/C965-800U-Specification.pdf
mclark999
100 W
The BBS02 comes in quite slow after you tao the brake which is why some people like Kepler have installed a separate switch that uses the throttle which is much more momentaryastmacca said:
skyungjae
10 kW
I'm very much looking forward to my BBS-02 & downtube battery. According to the status at bmsbattery, it's been in the "testing phase" since the 22nd. I hope it ships soon.
What kind of performance can I expect to get out of EM3EV's 48.8v 7.6Ah 20R frame pack? I weigh 200 lbs and will be doing hills.
I like the idea of removing the battery pack while the bicycle is parked for short periods.I live in a high bicycle theft city and the triangle frame pack doesn't seem practical. Also, I don't like the brick on the rear rack method. All ideas and options for a city commute and errand bike welcome.
Thank You,
gdb415
I like the idea of removing the battery pack while the bicycle is parked for short periods.I live in a high bicycle theft city and the triangle frame pack doesn't seem practical. Also, I don't like the brick on the rear rack method. All ideas and options for a city commute and errand bike welcome.
Thank You,
gdb415
tomjasz
1 GW
$70 more for the 11AH is a pretty good deal.
leo99
100 W
You can ask for another battery he will just limit the amps to 20 because of the battery. I seems that also would be good since the 750w does have some problems over 20amps plus the controller a 9fet with 750w. Thats what i did with the 29e rectangle 14ah battery that wasn't offerd at the start with that kit
Samd
10 MW
Hey guys,
hoping for some help.
I (almost) fitted a 250W and C961 display for a customer last night and it boots up with the dreaded error code 30. Lots of researching online about code 30 and it seems like that means the display can't talk to the controller.
I have a 500w unit with a C963 display on my wife's bike - am thinking of swapping it to try again. Not sure if the two different displays are compatible across all different drive sizes.
It's probably a bad connection somewhere in all the wiring but I can't seem to track it down...
hoping for some help.
I (almost) fitted a 250W and C961 display for a customer last night and it boots up with the dreaded error code 30. Lots of researching online about code 30 and it seems like that means the display can't talk to the controller.
I have a 500w unit with a C963 display on my wife's bike - am thinking of swapping it to try again. Not sure if the two different displays are compatible across all different drive sizes.
It's probably a bad connection somewhere in all the wiring but I can't seem to track it down...
