new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Stinky goal,

you say,
There will be much better technology in that time that you will probably want.

Maybe hold off on those Luna Lithium batteries.

I see:
2.3volt graphine cell with a energy density of 1000Whr/kg
coming soon for Fisker.

I may need a different charger for these dense graphine cells.
 
Well damn.

Check this out. with the motor freewheel pushed all the way on the motor shaft the set screw still won't fully engage the shaft. You can see it's location peeking out above the shaft.

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This pic was taken with the freewheel against the motor housing! I still need to back it off enough so it won't grind against the motor. Either the motor output shaft is much too short, or the set screw was tapped too far out on the collar, probably both. even if it wasn't this bad there is no way I can align the sprockets due to the fact that there would no ability to adjust alignment.

Has anybody seen this issue?
 
I got it from Sick Bike Parts.

The pic is mine, took it this morning.

I sent them an email with that pic, awaiting response.
 
Maybe? just maybe someone could actually measure the length of these different motor freewheel w/collar/adapters and find the lengths are not same??

Sick Bike Parts = 1.187"

Cyclone OEM = approx 1.187" - 0.14" =? 1.125"

My SBP collar sticks out beyond the motor shaft [more than 1/16"] but it works just fine. Actual is 0.102" . This location gives perfect chain alignment.
 
I'll mic it when I go home for lunch, but it's not even close to being functional.

It all boils down to this. If the freewheel sprockets position on the collar is not adjustable by the end user (me) then it's simply not going to work.

Looking at other people's pics, it looks like my motor freewheel unit was assembled incorrectly.

I'm not placing blame on anybody, I'm simply gathering information at this point.

Can anybody speak to whether the sprocket can be adjusted on its collar? Because mine seems to be set back much farther than any I have seen.
 
Apex,

seems you can make comparisons with others and figure out whether the length of your output shaft is short. Here is a measurement from one of my motors. The is not exact as my chainguard interferes with touch point measurements but approx 1.085".
 
That looks very different compared to mine from Luna Cycle. Looking forward to hearing what Sick Bike Parts says.

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Apex said:
...Check this out. with the motor freewheel pushed all the way on the motor shaft the set screw still won't fully engage the shaft. You can see it's location peeking out above the shaft...
...This pic was taken with the freewheel against the motor housing! I still need to back it off enough so it won't grind against the motor. Either the motor output shaft is much too short, or the set screw was tapped too far out on the collar, probably both. even if it wasn't this bad there is no way I can align the sprockets due to the fact that there would no ability to adjust alignment.

Has anybody seen this issue?
 

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All measurments taken with the depth gauge on my micrometer are included in the pics.

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The last pic shows what I think is the problem. Looks to me like the freewheel wasn't fully pressed onto the collar.
I see that it has been tack welded, so there is no way to reposition it.
 
Alex,

another thing to check: It seems either your motor shaft is shorter than the our's that work with SBP or the shaft was driven too far inward from the the motor freewheel side. If the shaft is not short, it may be possible to remove the cover opposite the output shaft and drive the motor shaft towards and into the freewheel hub. You may want to place the motor freewheel hub end on an anvil. You must check before diving the shaft that you do not crush something that is softer and crushable along the axle path. I am assuming that the shaft was pressed into the rotor and not welded, glued or allen screwed?
 
Looks to me like the freewheel wasn't fully pressed onto the collar.

?? The collar is threaded into the freewheel body not pressed.

You could have someone with a lathe turn down the collar's shoulder length by about 0.1" from the threaded side and the freewheel hub would seat further into the collar.

You could also do this cutting with a Dremel tool using a milling head. The shoulder does not have to be exact to stop and seat the collar. Do the job as a fitting process and hand file for finishing closure.
 
DingusMcGee said:
Looks to me like the freewheel wasn't fully pressed onto the collar.

?? The collar is threaded into the freewheel body not pressed.

Yes, I see that now.

I'm not going to alter the parts at all. I will send them back to SBP first. Or the whole damn kit. I'm still waiting for a response.
 
Alex,

one of the three laws of the Universe:

interchangeable parts won't

other 2:

everything is connected

no such thing as a free meal
 
Yeah, I wouldn't modify anything since it's a brand new kit.

Apex said:
...I'm not going to alter the parts at all. I will send them back to SBP first. Or the whole damn kit. I'm still waiting for a response.
 
I agree with you on the first point DingusMcGee.

Not sure what a free meal has to do with anything here.

SBP has a good reputation on the ICE side of the hobby, I'm sure they will fully support their electric kits as well.
It's still early out west, I'm confident they will get to me. If not, I'll call them later.
 
Robo,

This is a defining moment for SBP.

I suppose each to his own skills, having/enjoying the time to whine and the patience to wait 4 SBP.

I would rather just get my machine up and running if I could. Even if the fix involves something I have not done before if the method had some likelihood of working.

The problem may have arise from Cyclone production inconsistencies so no fault of SBP. It would seem they likely are not obligated to pay service to interchangeable parts which won't work because some dimensions were different than what they had designed for their parts to fit.
 
I'm sure we are all capable of fixing it. Let's just wait to see what SBP says.

DingusMcGee said:
I suppose each to his own skills, having/enjoying the time to whine and the patience to wait 4 SBP.

I would rather just get my machine up and running if I could. Even if the fix involves something I have not done before if the method had some likelihood of working.
 
My "skills" should be more than adequate for this build.
I was a motorcycle mechanic decades ago, now I am a graphic artist, printer, cnc specialist, and repair and maintain equipment worth over a million dollars.
You know what that has taught me? Don't screw with something that is supported by somebody else if at all possible. The minute you do, you assume all responsibility and void any and all support for the equipment. The minute you tear into something and modify it, it's your problem.

I'm not going to get into a pissing contest here.
I'll post up when I get a response.
 
I just measured three different Cyclone 3000s motor shaft lengths.
First one is 25 mm long
Second one is 28 mm long
Third is 31.5 mm long.

SBP Heavy duty 14 tooth with adapter is 29.7 thick
SBP semi heavy duty 14 tooth (dicta) is 28.3 thick with adapter
Stock 13 tooth is 26 mm thick with adapter

Don't worry. SBP has fantastic service. They will handle this.
 
Interesting, such variation. Did you push and pull at the motor shaft to see if there is any play? Mine can move in and out quite a bit, but I measured it after running the motor so that it's in its resting position. Mine is 1.042 inches (26.5 mm).

sather said:
I just measured three different Cyclone 3000s motor shaft lengths.
First one is 25 mm long
Second one is 28 mm long
Third is 31.5 mm long.

SBP Heavy duty 14 tooth with adapter is 29.7 thick
SBP semi heavy duty 14 tooth (dicta) is 28.3 thick with adapter
Stock 13 tooth is 26 mm thick with adapter

Don't worry. SBP has fantastic service. They will handle this.
 
Yep, my motor shaft is also 25mm
If it were 28+ then I think I could make it work, but I would have to resort to shimming the motor in its mounts to get proper chain alignment.

Also, my freewheel/adapter unit seems to be about 30mm thick.

It seems the shaft is on the short side of its tolerance, and the freewheel unit is on the high side of its tolerance, thus the two are conspiring together to not be compatable.

Thank you all for going to the trouble of measuring your parts for me. This is a great community here. :)
 
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