Hi!
Would you be able to use these cells?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-LG-36V-4-4AH-BATTERY-PACK-18650-EBIKE-VAPE-POWERWALL-BATTERIES-200-CELLS-BMS/201916138726
Why don't you want to trust Samsung cells? The Samsung 25r is probably the best cell for high-powered ebikes. A 5p group can easily handle 100A continuously.
You can also buy the Cyclone from Sick Bike Parts or directly from Cyclone.
http://sickbikeparts.com/electric-shifter-kit-shiftelectrikit/
http://www.cyclone-tw.com/3chkit.html
Does your bike look similar to this one?
If so, it should fit perfectly.
I don't see a need for a fuse. The BMS will protect your battery from a short (ask me how I know, haha).
Have you found any PAS sensors that fit an ISIS bottom bracket? I have an ISIS bottom bracket on one of my bikes, but for my lastest build, I went with the square-tapered bottom bracket so that I could use this Cycle Analyst-compatible PAS sensor.
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/pas-12p.html
Is there a reason you want to use the Kelly controller? I'm constantly reading about how people can't get them to work with the Cyclone, so that's why I went with the tried and true Cyclone 40A controller. You can easily shunt-mod it to 90A and dial it back with a Cycle Analyst V3.
Where did you read the 24 will flip the bike? When I tried the 24, the motor doesn't even ramp up quickly enough to wheelie. A 24 isn't useful unless you want to pedal only. What you should do is just try the stock setup first. If you haven't tried it, you can't sit there theorizing. I have a box full of chainrings for my Cyclone from trying different ratios. In fact I'm still trying new ratios. My new bike will have a 24 on the outer and a 32 narrow-wide on the inner.
That's another thing. A narrow-wide chainring is so much better at preventing chain drops. I would go 1x and narrow-wide if you ever drop a chain. Getting rid of the front derailleur will save you from all kinds of trouble.
The 44/48/32 is misprinted on Luna's website. I ordered that one knowing it was a misprint after verifying it with their support, and I received a 48/44/32 which is what I wanted. Again, I recommend trying the stock setup first. Sometimes a 48 won't clear the chainstay of some frames.
I don't like Oro throttles because they mess with the Cycle Analyst, making the voltage readings inaccurate. I went with a Bafang thumb throttle for my latest build. I use it on my BBSHD bike, and I love how smooth and easy to use it is.
https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbshd-and-bbso2-universal-thumb-throttle/
I bought this extension cable to cut up so that I didn't have to cut the connector off the throttle in case I needed to swap it out in the future.
https://lunacycle.com/bafang-throttle-extension-cable/
You will easily hit 40+ MPH at 72V. I run 52V, and I think I can achieve that.
Gman's old bike setup consumed 45 Wh per mile at an average speed of 26 MPH. A 10 Ah 72V battery has about 720 Wh. That means you will get 16 miles. The range will increase significantly if you don't use full throttle the whole way. The last time I went mountain biking, my Cycle Analyst V3 reported that I was using 21 Wh/mile at an average speed of 11.5 MPH.
Luna sells metal ammo boxes for charging.
https://lunacycle.com/luna-charge-safe-small-size-lithium-battery-box/
https://lunacycle.com/luna-charge-safe-lithium-battery-storage-box/
You could charge it in an oven too.
I bought a Sunkko 709A after a bit of research. Haven't used it yet though, but Bruno has one, and that's one big reason I chose it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr2_akGznxk
I bought the 220V version because I read about how people were having issues at 120V, but I've also heard of people having success with the 120V model, so maybe they fixed it.
Looking forward to hearing more!
GlowInTheDarkNinja said:
Hello all!
I am nearly ready to start my build but would like some more input from the experts here. Actually I was going to start buying parts today but LunaCycle is currently out of there 3kw cyclone kits. (More are supposed to arrive in 3-4 weeks.) and IMRBatteries stopped offering LG cells.
Anyways here is what I have been toying with for weeks.
Bike: I have a 2001 Giant Warp DS1 mountain bike. With a 9 speed (11-34T?) rear cassette. And 24/34/44T chain ring.
Battery: I planned to build my own battery from the start. I have seen praise for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung, and Lg. I don't want to trust Samsung cells personally, and settled on Sony VTC4s because they seem to deliver a great bang for your buck. However I am somewhat interested in LG's HD2, HD4, HE2, and HG2, because at 72V I should never draw more than 80A. But I was aiming for a slimmer pack of 100cells (200max) and was recommended to order cells that support a 10C rating. This leaves the VTC4, an HD2/4 remaining on my list. I plan to build a 72v pack configured in 20s5p or more parallel groups if I order more cells. At 80A in 5p I would draw 16A per cell. So 20A+ per cell continuous current is a must.
I had considered dropping my voltage down to 66v for 18s, but remembered the reason I settled on high voltage was so I would not have to run high Amps to get full power out of the motor.
Also with the 100A-150A+ currents my battery would support, I planned to put an 80A fuse on the + of my battery.
Also planning to have cells in parallel to be joined with pure nickel, cells in series will be joined by copper wire soldered to the nickel.
Motor and parts:
Cyclone 3kw offered by lunacycle.
ISIS BB and crankarms.
Brake sensor
Cadence sensor
Kelly KBS72121X controller
300w 72v luna advanced smart charger
150A 20s BMS
Questionable parts:
Triple chain ring
Throttle
I think I know what I want here but still would like some input. I was thinking about getting the 44/44T stock chainring they ship in the kit. For these reasons. In lower gear and with this power steep hills should still be okay. In lowest gear I should be able to wheelie no problem. This would also let me get a full twist throttle instead of a thumb throttle, and I could swap the brakes and the shifters to make my bike feel more like a motorcycle.
I also considered the newer 48/48/24T chainring but from what I have read, the 24T gear will flip the bike in almost any gear. The 44/48/32T is probably better for me so I could gain a little torque in the gear ratios over the 48/48/32T, but that motorcycle feeling is really enticing for me.
If someone were to convince me to get a triple chain ring I would probably get a Oro thumb throttle and the 44/48/32T triple chain ring.
If anyone knows this frame I would also like to hear suggestions for mounting the battery and how to build it. I am either going to settle for a large block pack, or I initially wanted to make all my parallel groups then connect them in series around the frame to make a very slim and tight battery pack, but I am concerned about soldering and running 80A 6AWG wire between each parallel group. But it would look so much nicer in the end.
Goals in mind:
Should wheelie with only motor power.
Should hit 40+mph
Should be capable of a 20mi trip. 10Ah min.
I think that's everything. Oh and my one big serious question is how to safely charge in my apartment. I was thinking about making a fire resistant charge box for cheapish, if possible. Mostly I just want some input on my planned build and some help getting genuine cells at a good price.
When I firmly settle on, and order, my cells I will need to hunt down a spot welder too.
Also this is basically my first post here, so I apologise ahead of time if I left anything out or if something is hard to read.