new ebike build what do you think?

mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
everybody keeps giving me that stupid link and i have not found anything useful to help me build my own battery pack unless its a blow by blow tutorial dont send it to me. im tired of reading the same stuff over and over thats not telling me what i want to know. i want to know what parts i need batteries chargers wires connectors tools ect ect what parts i need to make serial cables paralle cables ect how to make them materials needed diagrams and pictures on how to do it would suffice also i want to know how to charge the setup step by step instructions on how to safely charge my new battery pack. i need good tutorials with pictures videos i basically need somebody to tell me every single step i need to take to build a functioning pack and nobody seems to be able to help me with this.
mrfeelgood, the other day I posted a picture* showing you how to make a basic lipo battery. I don't see how a picture of connecting 3 batteries together is hard to understand. So last try.
mark5 said:
A basic ebike battery using lipo packs can be made as easily as connecting 2 or more packs together like pictured below. Just like the way you connect your SLA batteries. Add another group of the same packs to double capacity and so on.
*Picture of 3 packs connected together.
Between the packs you connect the red wire from one pack to the black wire of the next pack. That's called connecting the packs in series. That way of connecting them adds each pack's voltages together making the total volts available on the unconnected outside left black and right red wires. You connect those wires to your ebike controller. The packs above are Turnigy hardcase 4S. Those three are enough to power a motor. Now you know enough to make a lipo battery.

To charge those 3 packs you need a parallel charge cable like jkbrigman's pictured below**. You can make your own like he did or buy one like this.
**Picture of jkbrigman's parallel charging harness from this post.

You also need a parallel balancing cable. You buy them according to what kind of packs you have. For example, 6S, 5S, or 4S. There are others, like 3S.
 
i understand the basics os hooking up batteries in series and paralle its all the connectors and adapters and cables chargers and stuff that is troubling me i dont fully understand yet about charging lipo im ordering some basic batteries and a imaxb6 soon and im going to build a pack for my scooter and learn to charge and balance
 
also i dont have a soldering rig just yet im getting this soon though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2in1-SMD-Solder ... 4618dc0a70

If you plan on doing wiring on harnesses, don't waste your money.
It's not for large soldering jobs. Small SMD and small pcbs.
You need an iron with a larger tip than that will handle. It says 60 watt, but I don't think so.

Dan
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
1s lipo is 3.4 volts

12s lipo would be 50 volts off the charger

a balance charger a battery balancer a battery medic also you could in a perfect situation hook a volt meter up to each individual balance lead if im not mistaken and check the voltage to each cell when its full charged to test for balance in the cells

voltage times amp hours will give you watts ie motor voltage is 48 volts pack amp hours is 20 48 x 20 is 960 divide buy 35 a mile is 27.4 miles estimated range of the pack but thats in a perfect world

Were these really closed book answers?!?! :shock: If they were "Good For You!" If they weren't, I am glad you are learning!! :D
Either way it is good if it gets in your head, that is if you want to do this e-bike stuff.

BTW, you missed the BMS part of the answer. :oops:

Check out this short thread. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=41438

:D
 
well i didnt cheat i put down what i know haha. i know some stuff about ebikes and batteries but i know just enough to be in trouble and not enough to fully do what i want im going to order a 7s battery for my scooter and mod it to 25.9 lipo while i save up for parts for the bike im gunna buy a imaxb8 charger for 1-8c batterys and use it with my new power supply i bought off ebay to charge my esctooter all use it to learn and when i feel comftrable all build a pack for the ebike build
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
i was looking at the imaxb8 but i read reviews that said when balancing that they are not very accurate at keeping the same voltage each cell but i dont know i have never used one i would love to here your take on this

A real imaxb8 or a counterfeit imaxb8? The clone counterfeits won't give you an accurate charge. Then again, unless you have a very accurate DMM, you won't know the difference anyway. All the stuff coming out of China has such varying readings, it is imposable to know what the real voltages are. The work is finding something that gets close enough....and that costs money. Spend the money for the real imaxb8 and you will be better-off. Also, spend the money for a real DMM and take good care of it.

:D
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
hobby king ._.


Hobby King has real stuff, they even say if it is real of a clone.

:D
 
Buy 2 4s 5000mah hardcase packs for $50 and wire them in series for 8s. That's 148wh, compared to the 150wh of the 5800mah of the 7s pack. It's cheaper and will give you a little more speed. Distance will be almost identical at the same speed. Then if you want to go faster, you can just add another 4s pack to for 12s. You can parallel charge these with any 6s charger.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18631__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack_USA_Warehouse_.html
 
wesnewell said:
friendly1uk said:
There are two main approaches. To bms or not to bms. If you research on RC (toy) forums, you will find the picture above. You can string them together on the bike, then take them off again and rearrange them to charge on an rc bench charger of some sort. Then re-arrange them again for the bike. The important thing to be aware of is that the wires from the packs won't simply fit, you have to use conversion boards. It does not seem hard perhaps, but it's this rearranging of the pack that causes nearly all the fires.
Let's put BS to rest. I've been using rc lipo for 3 years. I've never had to take a pack apart to balance charge it. Never. And I run a 10ah 24s2p pack. Takes about 10 seconds to take it off the bike. If I wanted to keep my charger in the garage, I wouldn't even have to remove the pack, but I take inside where I can keep an eye on it while charging. Never leave any battery pack charging where you can't get to it, or in a spot where a fire might cause damge. Both the batteries OR ANY charger may catch fire.
What 24s charger is this? how many wires are you in fact changing?

friendly1uk said:
Packs built for commercial purposes are different. They can be destined for ev's or backup or whatever, but they won't be done like toys. Instead they leave the batteries and the charger on the bike, and have one box at home. Still 3 boxes, but distributed differently.
No, the charger is not left on the bike in most cases. In fact, it's rare. And to think they are built better is just ridiculous. Most are wrapped with duct tape or shrink wrap.
How it's wrapped up has no relevance, either way people can hash it up. In rc terms, half the charger is left at home, and half on the bike. It's semantics. The bms approach is less boxes. Just one on the bike, and one at home. Just one 2 pin connects them. It's actually better than I said.
friendly1uk said:
It seems like the same thing, because it is. However to disconnect the batteries from the charger is a lot of dangerous work each time. Yet to disconnect the charger from the next box is a simple 2 pin cord.
I guess it all depends on your definition of dangerous. Yep, you could drop the pack on your toes if you're a klutz.
No no no lol, swapping about all them extra wires is why most fires happen. It's not anybody's definition, it is simple fact. Fires are reserved for RC users, and generally after getting the wires wrong. BMS users don't do this swapping about, and therefore non have reported a fire or blowing plugs apart, which is also a fire imo as an electrician.
friendly1uk said:
The bms approach means leaving a bit more on the bike. Mine weighs an ounce. It is not really a weight issue. While sat there is does a whole host of other protection duties. Some of which might save you from destroying your expensive batteries, or lighting up the wiring with a short circuit. Most people like the ease of charging their bike with as much fuss as charging their phone. There are many benefits from leaving a circuit board on the bike, and the cost? well it is actually cheaper, because it is the mass market way of doing things.
A 1 ounce BMS. Getting deep in here. And what about the disadvantages? Like the bms ruining your battery pack when left connected for longer periods of time. Or the output limits it will put on your battery pack.
A bms won't ruin your pack. That is one old chestnut. I see lots of posts from users needing packs because there rc system offers no lvc, but no posts about a bms killing a pack. I can leave my pack unused for 6 months and it will be back in balance within 15 mins on the charger. I calculate my tiny 5Ah pack will drop from a storage charge to empty just after they pass there shelf life. It just isn't a problem. Just like a bms puts no limit on how much power you can take by clipping on to the batteries. Yes, that does stop the over currant from working, and the lvc would require a contactor to keep functioning, but as an rc user your happy with lvc being a 99c buzzer anyway. Any sort of disconnection is just added luxury. You still get a cheaper neater package without the extras lost by clipping straight to the batteries.

friendly1uk said:
edit: Remember, Non of the fire threads are from bms users. What is and isn't safe is heavily stacked. That is why no commercial packs come without bms. You can do it differently if you like, but it puts you squarely in the 'at risk' group. All forums have lot of pics showing why you shouldn't stray to toy chargers but still lot of people do. We see many fires each year from this group. Sheds, garages, homes.

I can't state the facts much more clearly
The sky is falling. What a crock. There's been fires caused by BMS wiring reported and documented here. And afaik, there's only been one house fire that was caused by a charger a person was using to bulk charge a huge lipo pack left unattended in his garage. A strict no-no for charging any rc lipo pack, with or without a bms.
We have threads listing catastrophic events by the year. I see no bms users posting. Just lots of wire swappers. If there is indeed a bms related fire, I have not seen it, and it is so outnumbered there is no argument. I would like to see it though, If it does exist. Also, should we be just limiting our talk to 'house' fires, when other fires are important too? Two houses have gone, but the number of other buildings is higher, and just bikes higher still. Your picking house fires to limit results. Well, Limit them to 100% wire swappers.
If you want to hawk bms's, fine. But don't just show the advantages of them. There are just as many disadvantages. And a person needs both to make an informed decision.

Have we merged threads? I don't know how I missed this before. Lovely :) but so much to address... I have done it in colour above.

Why the 'bs' and the falling skies, crock of shit comments one after another. Are you struggling to present a case that badly? Your almost making this personal. I hope your not offended.

So, these negative points about the bms. Do any exist ? I think your just clutching at straws tbh. Trying to justify what you are doing, when you should really be keeping it to yourself.
 
whatever you buy, put a circuit breaker in series. It may already have one. My razor e300 has one.
even a fuse will prevent fires caused by shorts outside the pack.
 
Matt Gruber said:
whatever you buy, put a circuit breaker in series. It may already have one. My razor e300 has one.
even a fuse will prevent fires caused by shorts outside the pack.

ive got a on off switch thats about it no fuses no breakers unless its inside the motor controller area where i have not looked
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
ive got a on off switch thats about it no fuses no breakers unless its inside the motor controller area where i have not looked

There is no fuse in your controller. Get an inline fuse and splice it in. They can be had at your local auto parts store. Get one that is rated just above your maximum amp draw of your controller.
 
now that i understand the basics of wiring in series and parallel how would i go about taking a pack thats already wired in series and adding another battery in parallel to boost ah? if anybody could throw up a diagram of how this works id appreciate it . CHEERS MATE
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
now that i understand the basics of wiring in series and parallel how would i go about taking a pack thats already wired in series and adding another battery in parallel to boost ah? if anybody could throw up a diagram of how this works id appreciate it . CHEERS MATE
make-2-series-groups-in-parallel.jpg
 
...voltage times amp hours will give you watts ie motor voltage is 48 volts pack amp hours is 20 48 x 20 is 960 divide buy 35 a mile is 27.4 miles estimated range of the pack but thats in a perfect world
Number are ok, but your units are wrong.
And remember those numbers will be different for a lead acid pack also !

Be aware, there are better Ahr/kg batterys available if you really plan 50Ahr pack
That 120lbs of lead could easily be replaced by less than 20lbs of good 18650 cells with the same capacity.
 
I like to parallel them at cell level too. this is same as above showing the balance cables parallel.
battwiring.jpg
 
so in simple form you build your pack say two packs at 48 volts 5 ah then you take the discharge leads from each pack and wire them positive to positive to positive and negative to negative? and that increases the amp hours?? if i have this wrong let me know
 
If you put 2 xxV 5ah packs in parallel you end up with 1 xxV 10ah pack. Never parallel different voltage packs.
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
now that i understand the basics of wiring in series and parallel how would i go about taking a pack thats already wired in series and adding another battery in parallel to boost ah? if anybody could throw up a diagram of how this works id appreciate it . CHEERS MATE

If you're asking this question, then you don't really understand the basics of wiring in series and parallel.
Luckily you're asking questions in the right place.
 
mrfeelgooddrag26 said:
true but lithium cells also come with alot more needs like balancing and special chargers not to mention all the special knowledge needed to safley operate lithium cells theres always a trade off in life
ah yes...
super sekrets of lithium.
The chargers are only slightly more expensive than lead chargers of the similar qualities. Use the right charger and you're already ready for any lithium chemistry
Purchasing the right tools is the hardest part of lithium batteries. i.e not hard at all. Expensive? but worth the expense on a bike where weight does make a difference.

BTW I carry 40 Ah on my trike every day. My average trip is about 12 miles and it takes me less than 20 minutes to recharge the used pack(s) (average 10 minutes)
SLA, on the other hand, meant one ride then spending the rest of the day recharging, unless you had more than one set of batteries. I had two for two trips per day.
I had and always have had 2 sets of batteries for my bikes/trikes because I use the vehicles as a replacement for cars since 2007, when I sold my last car and bought my first e-bike.
-trikes ftw-
 
Ummm... I tried black (SLA batts) and thought I'd nEVer go back... At least, for transportation. But now hope to make some old-style (really old, antique EVen) "raw" lead-acid batts. For storing sunlight ("solar") and "wind power" (solar) to recharge ebike Li batts, heat water, night lighting, tune-age, cooking, etc, etc. So... Higher Amps? (or Amp-hours?) Lessee... faster accelerations? Doin' a lot of hill climbing maybe? But it is possible, I suppose, that ya already have enough broken arrows laying around yer neighbourhood and want more stuff to break?
 
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