new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

the brand new 100 watt Weller iron. I like the larger size and heavy duty power cord on the Weller. The screw driver tips are huge.

It would probably solder the 26650 cells. If that can not do the job then I doubt any solder iron will work. The problem now is I just do not feel like soldering.

After taking years of resistance to even trying a heavy tip looks like you now might have comparatively quickly, accidentally(?), forced yourself to challenge your stubborn ignorance in your insistence on using toxic, ineffective too high soldering temperature.
Weller is forcefully regulated to 370℃

 

[latecurtis]

Yea. A 30 watt iron wont get close to that. The 60 watt is questionable.

What I would love to see is you DA soldering a 26650 cell in a video . Just one and hanging 10 pounds off a wire with dumbell weights like I did with a 18650 cell awhile back. I could never do that with a 26650 cell. Solder does not stick !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you own a spot welder ???

A lot of people recommend a spot welder. ??????

I ordered one and I saw a video on it. Did you watch the video ???

I will be able to do EITHER - solder or spot weld soon if that works. I have my doubts on that as well , but do not want to do anything. Taking forever and ever!!!!!!!

The 18650 cells I can solder no problem with any of those 60 watt irons but need 140 cells and all have to be tested for voltage and iR. Maybe by the time the snow flies if I am lucky.

I feel like a hopeless retard banging my head against a brick wall dealing with the 26650 cells.

Wish I just ordered packs already built.

Then I got the LTOs to deal with. Still trying to figure out something with them.

Thanks.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

No ... You've been burning your tips, evaporating flux and lead, repelling solder at, likely, 450-500°C.
About time you started using recommended-reasonable temperature 370°C (<400°C).

 

[latecurtis]

No ... You've been burning your tips, evaporating flux and lead, repelling solder at, likely, 450-500°C.
About time you started using recommended-reasonable temperature 370°C (<400°C).

Since you feel that strongly about it I know you are right then. Also the amount of solder that evaporated is ridiculous. I went thru a whole tube of solder on like 10 or 15 solder joints. I spent a ridiculous amount of money on solder.

Also tips. I went thru way too many tips. They just disintegrated.

So you have a valid point.

I still have not seen you solder a 26650 cell though. I made dozens and dozens of wires stick great to 18650 cells but even after melting the solder into a molten state and keeping the iron on the poor cell for 20 to 30 seconds I still get a weak solder joint that pulls off easily most of the time.

Tomajsz pointed that out to me and I saw many videos where a solder joint took only 2 or 3 seconds for a perfect bond. But 18650 cells. I would love to see how that is done with a 26650 cell. I tried solder acid.

Some clown on a video awhile back made it look like a walk in the park. Easy as cake. I ordered two kinds of acid for soldering. One an acid flux. It just made solder sticking to a cell even more difficult.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOk5-rFMR9k&t=12s

After several attempts I threw out the solder acid and flux. I could not get the exact kind he used. I had to order a different brand but still was solder acid. IT DID NOT WORK !!!!!!! The guy is a moron. Lucky I did not explode a cell !!!!!

You still avoid the question of spot welding. Yes I could try and solder a 26650 cell but would rather test the internal resistance and voltage of each 26650 cell first. My question is will the internal resistance be higher if I did damage heating up the cell. Actually I would be surprised if I did NOT do any damage. Will I need to do a capacity test on each 26650 pack.?????????

It is why I wanted to build solderless packs. I got $230 invested in the LIFEPO4 cells. That is a lot of money to burn up with a hot solder iron. The cells were brand new so should never required testing for iR and capacity.

I figured I may as well go with the test proven method of spot welding. Maybe watch some more you tube videos on building large packs with a spot welder. Then wrapping them in that blue factory paper like the packs I ordered on e bay.

They take up a lot less room and do not need rolls of electrical tape and all those wires. It is why I ordered a spot welder and 10 meters of pure nickel strip. The thing I want to order next is extra protective rings for the top positive side of the cells. That and that paper to wrap cells. If there is low capacity cells in the packs as long as I do not use a BMS and do use 6S balance cables I will see any bad cells with the charger or balancer but since 5P it might not show up right away. I will need to almost fully discharge the pack and study the cell banks really close for a low voltage from one of the banks.

Basically it is going to be a royal pain in the ass. If I had it to do over I would build a sturdy rear rack on each bike and an ammo box from Wall Mart sporting goods section and throw two or three 10.0 Ternergy 6S Multistars in a LiPo bag with power and balance extensions , put them in the ammo box BEHIND ME and call it a day. Three Multistars would work for the 3 killowatt brushless motor and two Multistars for everything else.

Instead I spent a fortune on loose cells , soldering equipment and recently ordered a cheap spot welder and nickel strips. Basically I am thoroughly disgusted with myself for wasting all that money. Plus I got 24 LTOs I spent over 600 bucks on that are just sitting around awhile I try and figure out how to run some of them.

Then there is the FX - 75 - 5 motor. Will I ever get that built ???? Will cows fly before I can build an electric dirt bike or Motorcycle. ????????????????????????????????? At least I did not spend money on the FX motor or controller but the LTOs were over 600 bucks.

I just put in my final order for a long time unless I decide to order another factory 13S 18650 pack to run in parallel with the Laudation 13S - 7P pack I own. It could take until the second or third week in August for everything I ordered to show up. By that time summer will be almost over.

I am thinking about getting a 13S pack A.S.A.P. There could be snow on the ground by the time I get the LIFEPO4 pack built.
No sure. I could try soldering a 13S - 10P pack awhile I wait on the spot welder. Or I could order a 13S - 6P. I did not see a 13S 7P like I bought.

I would at least 1,500 watts for the 1,800W brushless motor and 1,200 watts for the 1,000W 26" hub motor this summer. Not when there is a foot of snow on the ground.

The solder and flux DA recommended a couple pages ago is ordered as well as the protective rings for the 26650 cells. I need those before I start experimenting with a spot welder.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Either way its all a paper weight, but hey I still have my burnt up MXUS 45H 3kw hub motor, plus a few other burnt up motors......... "just in case"

I wonder what you could have purchased for $600 in terms of a battery, like how much is a ev car battery module. You could haul that around in a bicycle trailer.
I know that one popular seller of battery cans will tab weld each can for you, they even sell 26650's but they're pricier then their 18650 offerings. You'd just have to trim off the excess so they'd fit in the holders then its a simple home depot trip for house wiring that has 10awg and its real easy. Like when I made the Makita tool pack batteries, all I did was solder 5S2P into the config I wanted. Everytime I see the red Milwaukee truck, I'd love to have access to the returned shop batteries

Will I ever get that built ???? Will cows fly before I can build an electric dirt bike or Motorcycle. ????????????????????????????????? At least I did not spend money on the FX motor or controller but the LTOs were over 600 bucks.

 

[DrkAngel]

13s4p assembled modules (4800w continuous) $40 each
Gang a few together for decent range.

 

[latecurtis]

I checked it out.

13S - 4P.

My cheap Laudation pack is 13S - 7P. No way near 8 pounds though.

300 watts = 8 pounds.

600 watts = 16 pounds.

900 watts = 24 pounds.

Even if they put out double or 1,800 watts @ 24 pounds I do not see it.





15 LTOs are 26.4555 pounds or 2 - 1/2 pounds more. Maybe 3 - 1/2 or 4 pounds in I add a voltage booster for 53V. Without a voltage booster I can get 37.5V - 2.5 * 15.

It would make no sense to buy those Panasonic modules. One of those would be great for a kids 250W Razor scooter. :lol:

I need to build a 15S - LTO pack and can run the Currie with no voltage booster. 37.5V is perfect for the Currie. It has the brush chain in the rear. Unite 3.000 rpm 36V - 1,000W. It has a 36V Bafang up front with a 18 amp Greentime controller. The controllers share a single throttle but the single throttle wire goes to the brush chain controller so with two DC breakers can run the Bafang solo.

Sick of hearing about that one good build. I have a lot of good builds. Yea I need to upgrade several e bikes to 12 and 10 gauge wire but all my e bikes are or will be good builds. I just need to build the LTO batteries.

I might start soldering that 14S - 10P - 18650 pack also. I do not need the spot welder for LTOs or 18650 batteries. The spot welder is for 26650 cells and a 3 kilowatt battery pack for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and the Haro V3.

I got extra tips for my little 60 watt irons. big tips. I wont even need the new Weller for 18650 cells. I will try turning the temperature down a notch or two and see if it works better. All three 60 watt irons have temperature control.

My plan is to spot weld the 26650 cells. If the cheap spot welder don't work I will break out the Weller. It is a real soldering iron from what I hear. High quality and DA says is the perfect temperature. Redundant and overkill for 18650 cells though.

I fixed the flat tire on the 26" Diamondback Outlook. Probably running that tomorrow.

Thanks

LC. out.

 

[Blacklite]

If the cheap spot welder don't work I will break out the Weller. It is a real soldering iron from what I hear. High quality and DA says is the perfect temperature. Redundant and overkill for 18650 cells though.

You finally have the correct tool that will stop you burning up tips and destroying batteries by using stupidly high temperatures, yet you choose not to use it as it is "redundant". The level of stupidity in this thread boggles the mind.

 

[latecurtis]

You finally have the correct tool that will stop you burning up tips and destroying batteries by using stupidly high temperatures, yet you choose not to use it as it is "redundant". The level of stupidity in this thread boggles the mind.

Hmmm.

I did not see your video or DAs video on how to solder a 26650 cell and test the strength of the solder joint ?????????????????.

I soldered 18650 cells and hung 10 pound dumbell plates from them. Did not even try with 26650 cells as solder does not stick.

I got extra tips for my little 60 watt irons. big tips. I wont even need the new Weller for 18650 cells. I will try turning the temperature down a notch or two than it was before and see if it works better. All three 60 watt irons have temperature control.

Why would I throw out three perfectly good 60 watt irons or never use them again because I bought a Weller ???????????? That sounds like stupidity. The Weller is for 26650 cells !!!! I have my doubts on a $24 buck spot welder. :lol: I still ordered it though.

Again you do not read my entire post. Only parts of it. !!!!

I successfully soldered 50 maybe 100 or more 18650 cells in the past year. At least that many more in the past 6 or 7 years before , and did not use a Weller. I used 60 watt irons with temperature control. I can turn that temperature down but the results are piss poor at lower temperatures. All three 60 watt irons have temperature knobs.

What I will do is try that trick I did with the 18650 cell hanging steel plates from the wire to test the solder joint but use the Weller on a 26650 cell. If it passes the test then I will keep it. If it does not I will still keep it :lol: I spent about $70 on that. What will go in the dumpster though is the 26650 LIFEPO4 cells is the Weller AND the spot welder BOTH fail to work.

I have LTOs. That is what I am interested in. A 15S - LTO pack and a 9S - LTO pack. A way to balance them.

DC voltage step up converters. FRANKLY I AM SICK AND TIRED OF 18650 and 26650 cells. LTO is BETTER. WAY BETTER.

I need to run LTO PERIOD. Two packs. A 15S and a 9S would probably last 20 or 30 years or until I am 6 feet under the ground.

As a matter of fact I would sell all the 18650s and 26650 and all my factory packs. Then buy a decent 90+ efficient DC booster. Then build a 15S and a 9S LTO pack. The 15S - 37.5V pack could be boosted to 53V or 60V when needed. The 9S - LTO pack - 22.5V can be boosted to 42V. I can run ALL my e bikes for 30 frocking years. Two DC boosters would work better but could wire XT 60s so one would work for a 15S and a 9S LTO pack.

But did I order ring terminals for the LTOs ??? NO. Did I order a LTO balancer ??????? NO. What about a 90+ efficient DC booster. NO !!!!!

That is the stupidity you refer to. I spent all my money on fancy solder irons and cheap spot welders.
None of that shit is necessary for LTO batteries.

Yea. I feel like a complete retard. But not for the reasons you think.

I just proved you and DA wrong on that lower temperature in a video just now. You and DA are telling me I solder at too high temperature i ????? I am telling you lower temperature WILL NOT WORK !!! I tried it many times.

EXPLAIN THIS VIDEO I JUST DID.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shIaAnJb_AY

If The Weller can not do the same thing with 26650 cells I will smash it with a hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Terrible advice seems to be a trend now and ruining the e bike revolution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOk5-rFMR9k&t=311s

That retard is a prime example. Some Russian solder acid. A miracle. Will make any solder stick to a cell.
I ordered solder acid and was a big joke on me.

by DrkAngel » Jul 23 2021 7:39am

Don't give up on soldering, just try following instructions?
Last edited by DrkAngel on Jul 23 2021 7:52am, edited 1 time in total.

If basic instructions are my solder is too hot then explain my video.

Actually why not make a video. I will get up tomorrow and use the Weller and both 18650 and 26650 cells. I will also use the biggest tip I got and try the 60 watt and compare results. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My patience is also wearing thin. I hear how I do every frocking thing wrong but see no proof how any of you can do it better. SHOW ME !!!!!



There is my proof I can solder a 18650 cell with a 60 watt iron. If the Weller can not do that then I will put it on concrete and smash it 100 times with a hammer. If it can do that with a 26650 cell I will passionatlly kiss it. But not while it is hot. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Use proper temperature is only one of the many critiques I listed in the step by step instructions I've previously posted for you.

But "stay well below 400℃!" is likely the most basic-essential.
Above 400℃ lead can evaporate-boil, creating a vapor layer between solder and tip = bad heat transfer!
Not to mention poisonous lead fumes.
At proper temperatures, solder (melting temp ~190℃) will flow onto a tip and reach 370℃, your high temp repels the solder and drips ~190℃ melted solder onto cells for a sketchy, if any, bond ... you then ... jam charred burnt tip into pile of solder trying to melt it , difficult as boiling lead vapor creates an insulating barrier ... until residual tin finally heats enough to form some degree of bond?

Why you resist so doggedly my advice, on everything, is perplexing to me.
Typically, after (often) years, on each point you finally admit I was right, but you refuse to listen promptly and needlessly pile mountains of frustration and expense upon yourself!

Have I ever led you wrong?

 

[DrkAngel]

EXPLAIN THIS VIDEO I JUST DID.

Set to 370℃ and use a heavy tip, not the long thin cutting tip from your video.
Don't forget to use flux!

13S - 4P.

My cheap Laudation pack is 13S - 7P. No way near 8 pounds though.

300 watts = 8 pounds.

600 watts = 16 pounds.

900 watts = 24 pounds.

Even if they put out double or 1,800 watts @ 24 pounds I do not see it.

1 13s4p brick can put out 4800w continuous!
Your " Laudation pack is 13S - 7P" struggles to provide near 1000w.

Better check your "Laudation 13S - 7P" (48V)!
Your links and previous comments refer to a $218 10s7p (36V).
Might explain poor 48V performance?

3 13s4p ($120) would outperform your Laudation "13S" - 7P ($218) in every way, acceleration, speed, range etc. Monstrously so if it's only a 10s7p. 14,400w output vs ~1000w.

 

[tomjasz]

Once again you pissed away enough money to have purchased a decent soldering iron. Like the TS100 or other high rated budget soldering station. Now you expect others to show their superior builds. You can lead a horse to water but not force to drink.
https://youtu.be/7jiFNPSPnOA

 

[latecurtis]

1 13s4p brick can put out 4800w continuous!
Your " Laudation pack is 13S - 7P" struggles to provide near 1000w.

Better check your "Laudation 13S - 7P" (48V)!
Your links and previous comments refer to a $218 10s7p (36V).
Might explain poor 48V performance?

3 13s4p ($120) would outperform your Laudation "13S" - 7P ($218) in every way, acceleration, speed, range etc. Monstrously so if it's only a 10s7p. 14,400w output vs ~1000w.

My bad.

I thought my 13S pack was a laudation. It is not. My 10S 14 Ah pack is the laudation.

My 13S pack is something else.

Here are the pictures of the batteries I bought with the chargers. I want to build a wood box to protect the 13S pack as the old handle bar bag I am using that came with the 800 watt 20" hub motor is flimsy. If the battery were to fall it would get damaged.

Notice the Hyper Tough black hard plastic box I put the 10S Laudation in parallel with the two hover board packs. That is very good protection. Waterproof and nice and compact. I can stack 6 cells high and 12 cells fit in the bottom. I want to build two with 6S - 10P and room for a 1S - 10P in each so two will be 14S and can charge all in series with the 13S - 54.6V charger for 3.9V per cell. I have three external balancers for balance as needed.

:lol: The solder joint I did with the weights hanging from it failed a few hours ago. It woke me up. :lol: It lasted awhile though. several hours.

Basically they have online schools and all that.

You guys can sit there and tell me how to solder from now until the cows come home but I think the only true test proven way to learn is in person. I have to actually be there DA. and see you solder a 18650 cell and then a 26650 cell.

I did what you said and ordered the exact solder and flux you posted. It will all be here some time in August. Mabye then the solder joint will be able to hang 10 pounds forever instead of 5 pounds for a few hours. :lol:

Once again you pissed away enough money to have purchased a decent soldering iron. Like the TS100 or other high rated budget soldering station. Now you expect others to show their superior builds. You can lead a horse to water but not force to drink.
https://youtu.be/7jiFNPSPnOA

OK Tomajsz.

I did order a spot welder and have the recommended power supply. What about that ???????? I took your good advice yet you can only criticize me for poor soldering skills.

How about the spot welder you were going to donate ????? If the one I bought actually works I wont need another one. I was smart enough to post a video of it BEFORE I ordered it. Unless the video was faked it seemed to produce quality spot welds.

Everything including rings for the tops of cells are on the way. I just have to order the blue wrap paper so my future builds look like the pictures below.

Sorry DA. I just can not buy that statement about a 13S - 4P pack putting out 4,800 watts. I do not think a 13S - 10P pack could do that. Maybe the new Tesla batteries. I bet my LTOs could easily.

How about that ??? I never got an answer about LTOs powering the FX controller. It is 28 Kilowatts. I need 80V of LTO. I would really like to know how far an 80V - 18 Ah - Lishen LTO pack would go with that much power output.

Could I get 3 miles out of it ?????????? Five miles ????????? ZERO miles as it would blow up. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I might get frustrated and all that but I am never giving up.

How much for a soldering lesson in person DA. I know you do not drink but I could order a big pizza. I could also pay you by the hour ????????? . I will have all the stuff I need by the end of August. I do not know when I will be traveling to NY.

I have a 31 year old son that lives in Little Falls NY and works in Utica for Version. My mother lives about 50 miles East of Utica. About 30 miles from Albany and I have friends in Schenectady so when I do travel I may want to stop and get a Motel for the night and could do that around your neck of the woods. I really want to watch you solder a 26650 cell. I need to see it done first hand.

I also have that big 8 core AMD computer. Not sure what is but it needs an OS installed I think and was going to set it up for steam gaming. I think it is a Ryzen 1800X. It has a video card but think only 2 GIG so could use an upgrade. It is liquid cooled.

Sorry if I was a little rude this morning. I was a little drunk and frustrated.

Please keep posting.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

“ How about the spot welder you were going to donate ?????”

You are impatient. You jumped the gin before I could respond. And as usual you try to reinvent the wheel. A modicum of patience and I could have helped. But as is typical you chose to go off half cocked. And with that I give up. Adios.

 

[latecurtis]

Well I guess I whine too much.

I act like a spoiled rich brat. Nothing is ever good enough.

The fact is even my slowest less powerful and smallest e bike is actually pretty good.

I changed the flat on the 26" Diamondback Outlook with the dual Bafang motors front and rear last night and was going to ride it today. However after posting earlier I had a choice. I had less than an hour to get to the cannabis store. I had to find my state issue medical card and could have took the van but was 86 degrees with no AC and the driver side window wont roll down.

If I hauled the 26" bike down stairs that would have been at least another 5 minutes so hooked up the 10S pack I just posted the picture of. I could have run the 13S pack as it was 49 or 50V I think but since I charged the 10S pack to 42V this morning I did not want it sitting around at 4.2V per cell so I took my least powerful battery and least powerful e bike. All my other e bikes have two motors except the 1,800W brushless motor.

If I were to run the 13S pack with the 20" direct drive 800 watt motor it would be as powerful as the Dual Bafangs and close to the dual e bike ling motors but not with the 10S - 8P pack. Maybe 530 to 600W.

I made it about 5 miles out in the country with 15 minutes to spare. I did a video with the 1,800W brushless motor about a month or so ago and the hills are moderate decent size hills but nothing like parts of NY. The 20" Turbo did slow down up the hills to about 5 mph. But it made it. The 20" hub is a front hub kit on the back of a 20" bike so no pedal options. I did not go straight home but went to Wall Mart then rode home.

I put my hand on the controller and the motor after climbing 3 of those hills and was not even warm. That motor should easily handle the 13S pack and will do better up the hills and about 25 mph on the flat I think. It is about 20 mph now I think. As far as capacity goes I google mapped it and was exactly 14 miles, Here is the battery now. It is safe to say I can get at least 20 miles on that pack. (bottom two pics.)

Something cut out though when I ran it with the 1,800W brushless motor a couple weeks ago when I got the flat. It could have been the BMS or LVC as was drawing probably double the current from the packs as I did today. A 1,500W controller will draw a lot more current than an 800 watt controller.

I still need to test the 1,800W motor and 1,500W controller with a larger battery pack. The 13S is good for the 1,000W 26" hub motor but not the 1,800W motor. The 1,000W 26" hub motor lacks power as it is not the original throttle. The original throttle broke moving it from NY.

I bought a 1,000W - 48V - 35 amp Greentime sensor less controller that takes a standard 3 wire throttle. Once I hook that up and use the 13S pack for that and the 10S pack for the Bafang on the front I should fly up those hills like I did with the 1,800W brushless motor.

I bought a small 4 pack wire brush for a Dremel.



I can use it on my drill. If I am very careful can do the positive side of 18650 or 26650 cells. The bottom negative I wont have to be as careful but am thinking it could make a difference as far as solder sticking. It is worth a try. I will fire up the Weller and give it a shot. I still have to wait for the solder and flux DA recommended.





I got an important message from the seller of the spot welder.



It is important. It said a 12V battery would work when I ordered it. I do not own LiPo. I have two 22 Ah SLAs.



Also the energy setting seems kind of sketchy. I will need to watch the video on that again at least several times.

I guess nobody is going to post any more. Everybody is mad at me. Sorry if I was an asshole.

Thanks.

 

[latecurtis]

As The Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The e bike workshop moves on.

Not sure if anyone is posting any more but I am still working in my little e bike work shop.

Spot welder is on the way. If I am to build a 14S - 10P - 18650 pack I will need to extract more cells from those 3S Life vest packs.

How about the spot welder you were going to donate ?????”

You are impatient. You jumped the gin before I could respond. And as usual you try to reinvent the wheel. A modicum of patience and I could have helped. But as is typical you chose to go off half cocked. And with that I give up. Adios.

I don't really see how it matters. I watched a video and ordered one for $24. It might work or not. I got four soldering irons counting the Weller. What is wrong with having more than one spot welder. If one breaks I have another to use. That post is really confusing.

Also DA posted those really large heavy duty modules and claims 4,800W from a 13S - 4P pack. Perhaps but how long will they last. I find it difficult to believe any 18650 battery can put out that much discharge for a prolonged period of time.

1 13s4p brick can put out 4800w continuous!
Your " Laudation pack is 13S - 7P" struggles to provide near 1000w.

4,800W / 52 = 92.3 watts per cell. I thought a 18650 cell was only good for 10 to 18 watts. ?????????????

I tried to order two just now as they will work for the 3 killowatt brushless motor but my card got declined and need to put money on my other card. I find 4,800W hard to believe but 1,500W / 52 = 28 watts. Still a lot but sounds probable. I will order two but will need to put $100 on my card first. I will also need a link for the BMSs.

I really want to build the Haro V3 next month so that will be my plan B if the spot welder fails and I fail to build the LIFEPO4 pack. Not sure if I can mount them on a 20" bike for the 1,800W brushless motor. I will need to build a heavy duty front basket and try to mount the other on the top bar of the frame somehow.

Please post a BMS you will recommend. They will be in parallel so 60 amps each BMS will work.






I have a box full of those. I have to cut them open and extract the cells. The wrapper comes off the cells and have to use the liquid tape to put the top ring back on. Then wrap the cell with electric tape. Test voltage and iR and label the cell. It will take a lot of time. Weeks perhaps months.

I was going to order a second 13S - 20 Ah pack exactly like the one I have which is 30 amps. That explains a lot. The 1,800W brushless motor with the 1,500W controller is > 30 amps. A second 30 amp pack would give me 60 amps and be perfect for the 1,800W brushless motor. It might even work for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor as 53V * 60 = 3,180W.

I almost hit 30 mph with that pack with the 1,800W brushless motor. It was the 10S - 8P pack that cut out up a hill. Not the 13S - 20 Ah pack. The problem is they are no where to be found on e bay or Amazon. Only 13S - 5P 14Ah packs. They must have sold out of the 13S - 20 AH or just got cheaper as the 13S - 5P packs are selling for the same price as the 13S - 7P pack I bought.

Well at least I can protect the battery I got from damage. It was in that ragged cloth bag meant for a controller. It is now in the hyper tough hard impact plastic storage box.



I used a skinny solder tip to melt slots in the plastic for a hack saw blade. I had to melt the top about 1/3" to slide the pack in. The small clear plastic container also to make it work. I used gorilla tape to cover the rough edges so could not use hot glue to attach the small container on the end so had to gorilla tape it.

All of my e bikes are getting the same size battery racks for those black storage boxes which are stackable. I might need to slide the ballery racks back a couple inches or so so that it fits as is a little longer due to the extension. I drilled a couple holes in the bottom just in case some rain gets in. I am thinking about re building the battery rack on the 26" dual suspension so they can sit side by side as will look better than stacking on top even though they are stackable. I need both the 13S and the 10S on the 26" dual suspension as the 48V hub in the rear and Bafang up front.

I have been procrastinating as that bike is in the van and a heavy beast. It will be a bear hauling it up three flights of stairs but I need to install the 1,000W Greentime controller anyway as it takes a 3 wire throttle and the four wire on it now is losing about 50% power as original throttle broke.

I am not sure if I will order another pack as the spot welder will be here soon. I am not sure about it though. I am kind of in over my head on that. For one thing I am scared of electricity. It took me about a month or two to get the courage to run LiPo.

I know DA said he would not build a pack for me. I get that. I want to build my own anyway. I wish DA could set up the spot welder for me though. It needs to be on the correct energy setting. I have two 22 AH batteries and the instructions are a 40 AH car battery or a 3S LiPo battery.

I only paid 24 bucks for the spot welder. There is a video on it on YouTube. My greatest concern though is getting zapped or starting a fire. I have a small fire extinguisher. I just would like to know if the thing is safe to use. DA. would know just by looking at it. Perhaps it could be done with a laptop and camera. It must show clear video though like DA is actually there a few feet away.

It is way out of my comfort zone. I have been watching videos of packs being spot welded for years but was hesitant to order one plus I thought they were way too expensive. It will be here in about a week plus the nickel strips.

I bought the spot welder after watching this video. I already posted it several times but everyone here on the post just keep posting about how to solder. I know my soldering sucks. That is why I took Tomsjz advice and ordered a spot welder. Also all those wires for the series connection will take much more time and space then nickel strip. So PLEEEEEASE. Lets just forget about soldering at least for now. I need this spot welder to work.

I can use it for both 18650 cells and LIFEPO4 - 26650 cells. I want to build packs just like the ones I ordered. I just need the blue plastic wrap. I ordered everything else.

I am watching the video again for the third time. I want to know if the video is real or fake ????? Is this guy getting paid to help promote a bad product or is this guy an honest stand up guy ????????? I can not afford any mistakes spot welding. It is very dangerous and I am very nervous about it. Please help !!!!!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBrLQ75ffY4&t=4s

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Well thankfully you clipped your toe nails when taking those pictures.

 

[latecurtis]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks for posting.


I consider anyone who posts here as my friend as I do not have any friends to actually hang out with and have a beer and crack a joke. Most of them died from either cancer or drinking. Cigarettes' killed two close friends and my father.

I still have a couple friends in NY but they drink and have health issues. It is 500 miles away. I never see them. Over two years now.

I thought I had enough money on my card but got declined when I tried to order two of those power modules DA recommended.

At first I thought I was imagining things when I looked them up and read the specs. but I mistook watt hours for watts. I thought they were only rated at 300W but after I checked out Panasonic is claiming a WHOOPING 25 amp discharge rate on those cells.

I am not as smart as DA with specifications like that so I know if DA says it there must be truth in it. He must have run cells with high discharge. 25 amps just seems insane expecially from DA as he tried to hammer in my head the battery abuse thing. DA is usually the modest one when discharge rate is concerned but now I am the modest one.

Therefore I will order two but I really need a good BMS. Without testing them my guess for optimum cell life. A more modest discharge rate say 10 amps would still give 2,080 watts.

4V * 10A = 40 watts. 40W * 52 cells = 2,080 watts. Two in parallel > 4 kilowatts.

I need two good BMSs then. All I will need then for the Haro V3 and 3 kilowatt motor is the wheel sprocket.

I am getting the spot welder and strips but am nervous on the spot welder. I could use a little encouragement on that. Not discouragement please.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBrLQ75ffY4&t=4s

Was hoping at least someone would watch that video and then give an opinion. That video is why I ordered the spot welder. If you skip the video then your opinion lacks that information !!!!!

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I need two good BMSs then. All I will need then for the Haro V3 and 3 kilowatt motor is the wheel sprocket.

1 BMS TO RULE THEM ALL
You will need a minimum of 2 to attain any reasonable range. Combine 2, or more, and 1 BMS should be sufficient for all.

 

[latecurtis]

On my way to Wall Mart to load my card. Going to shoot a video with the 20" Turbo and using the 13S pack today. I want to see the performance difference over the 10S pack.

The mini spot welder is at the post office. There was a nurse here to see my wife at 4PM so had to be here to let her in. The post office closes at 5PM. The nickel strip wont be here for at least 5 days.

I just watched another video on the cheap Chinese spot welders. It is not the same video as before.

The letter I got from the seller seems to verify what the guy in the video is saying. It looks like I might need a 3S LiPo battery to run it, I know if DA or Tomajsz were to watch the video or anyone familiar with spot welding they could share an honest opinion.

NO Tomajsz I am not looking for a free spot welder. That was your idea not mine. I will not turn down anything that is free but am not expecting or looking for free stuff.

I just want a spot welder that works. I want to use nickel strips and not wires. I want to wrap it with the blue plastic so it looks like a professional built pack and then stuff them in my hyper tough hard impact resistant plastic boxes and call it a day.

I am not looking for miracles here. Just a way to build the 26650 and 18650 packs so I do not have a bunch of cells sitting around taking up space.

I will post both videos now. If nobody watches the whole videos then their opinion lacks important information.

From what I hear on all three and the letter I got from the seller on the one I bought I will need to order a 3S LiPo. The 22 Ah SLAs do not have the discharge current required. What do you guys think ?????????

I will need a plastic face shield also. Or safety glasses. Rubber gloves also maybe. I am uncomfortable playing around with high voltage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=231qtaRIs3M&t=885s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXedrvMZ6sg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBrLQ75ffY4&t=9s

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea. The 20" Turbo ran great tonight with the 13S 20 Ah pack. It is the perfect pack for that bike. The 10S - 8P is suitable for the Dual and single Bafangs and the dual e bikeling motors all which are 36V.

The Currie however with the 1,000W chain drive is a little much for the 10S - 8P pack. I still have the old 10S - 10P hoverboard packs but need to break them all down to the 10S - 2P hoverboard packs and do a iR test.

Please let me know as this is very important as lithium packs can start a fire due to thermal runaway. I want to be sure they are still safe to run and charge. Even though they are old I will need to parallel them with the newer 10S-8P pack for the Currie is the way it is wired with the single throttle I need a large capacity 10S pack. I am running the 36V - 1,000W chain drive and the 350W Bafang on the front off a single 10S pack so need to either hook up the 10S - 10P old packs in series with the 10S - 8P new packs.

Once I get 15 - LTOs built I can retire the old lithium packs if I need to.

From what I gather from research iR is like voltage in a series connection. It adds up. It stays the same as does voltage in a parallel connection does if the batteries are real close to the same voltage.

I have 3 Samsung 10S - 2P hoverboard packs and two SONA 10S - 2P hoverboard packs. I will test each pack for voltage and iR and post the results here. Then I will know if I should take them to the battery recycle center or hook them in parallel with the newer 10S 8P packs and run them with the Currie.



I am eating my sub and then will edit and post the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hhcUs-WLqo


Yea the battery box is perfect size for the LTOs. I put six cells in the bottom but is just a little to small as #6 cell does not fit flat on the bottom without pressing them down. That is ok though as I want to separate them with 1/4" plywood. I do not want any cells touching so will basically be a wood box encasing them which I wont have to paint as it will be a perfect fit inside the high impact plastic battery box. Hopefully on the top bar of the Currie for even weight distribution. It will be exclusively for the Currie.

The 13S power modules will be for the Haro V3 and 3 kilowatt motor and controller. Gearing will be approx. 45 mph and here is a pic of the motor and controller.

 

[markz]

What are you like 6' tall, that bike looks small, looks like you'd be hunched over, looks like an awkward riding position and not much weight distribution as its looks top heavy but hey as long as it gets you from A to B who cares.

 

[latecurtis]

What are you like 6' tall,

five foot 8 inches. The seat will go up a little higher.

I prefer a shorter bike. Actually the Diamondback Outlook is the most comfortable bike and just a little higher I think. I can put my feet on the ground so that is my emergency brake. That bike has both front and back brakes. The 20" Turbo needs a lever and cable for the rear brake.

I bought the brake caliper last time I was at the bike shop. I like small bikes that are compact and not heavy. I love the 26" dual suspension and the Currie but they are heavy beasts. More like electric dirt bikes than an e bike. For long distance the larger bikes will have more range as larger battery packs. For short trips the 20" Turbo and that Diamondback are perfect and only need the 10S - 8P pack for up to 20 miles. The same for the Giant Roam and dual e bikeling motors when I get it done.



I am bringing that downstairs the next time I ride and will be perfect for the 10S - 8P pack. It is my favorite e bike to ride as very comfortable and smooth. It tops out right at 21 mph on the flat. About two mph slower than the 20" Turbo when I run the 13S pack. What will be a really close race is the 20" Turbo and the Giant Roam.

The Giant roam has that 500 watt 700c front hub motor. About 15% more efficient than a direct drive. I suspect it will do more than 500W as a 22 amp controller. It will be a close race on the flat. Also up hills as I can kick in the second 26" - 500 watt e bike ling motor up a hill. It also has 21 pedal gears so should out perform the 800 watt 20" Turbo but will be an interesting comparison.

There is the video on those modules I just ordered DA recommended. They are monstrous. Basically two of those will be almost as heavy as 10 LTOs I think.

https://batteryhookup.com/products/panasonic-48v-power-module-13s-6-4a-300wh

Yea. I just watched part of the video. That guy is a complete retard. He took it apart to put in a BMS. There are tabs and all that needs to be done is solder the wires from the BMS. Nothing should be taken apart ! I stopped watching it at that point. Maybe later. I have my work cut out for me mounting them to the Haro V3.

I wish I could afford like 10 of them for the FX 75=5 motor but wrong voltage. I need 80V for the FX controller. 80V and 350 amps. 10 would be enough amps but not the right voltage. Also would weigh 80 pounds as 8 pounds each. That is actually more than 32 LTOs. I think 24 - LTOs are 45 pounds I will need 32 LTOs for 80V.

I have my work cut out for me for sure. Mounting the LTOs for the Currie and those huge power modules for the Haro V3. My woodworking skills are rusty. It is why I have been buying battery boxes. The battery boxes do look good though.

If DA sees this please check out the videos on my last post. A lot of mixed reviews on those cheap e bay spot welders. My main concern though is safety. If it don't work I am out 24 bucks. If it blows up or a cell blows up I could be out of a finger or an eye.

I have a fire extinguisher but would rather NOT have to use it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Damn, I was waiting for a video, or even a picture:
of you pedaling like crazy with a flaming LiPo fire on your rear rack;
or,
of you with dark goggles and baseball cap on backwards, flying down a hill, brightly lit from front basket LiPo fire with mouth wide in a scream.

 

[latecurtis]

Damn, I was waiting for a video, or even a picture:
of you pedaling like crazy with a flaming LiPo fire on your rear rack;
or,
of you with dark goggles and baseball cap on backwards, flying down a hill, brightly lit from front basket LiPo fire with mouth wide in a scream.

:lol: :lol:

Yea. I almost got clobbered by a car about a week ago taking that route. There are some insane drivers out there. I take it easy until I have a nice clear stretch with no intersections. Especially with a single front brake. The car was doing about 50 mph in a 30 mile zone. I stopped with the single front brake and my feet dragging. I turned the wheel also so was about 10 feet between me and the SUV I think it was.. It would have been curtains if it hit me.

I cut out a lot of the video as was only going 10 to 15 mph. Why I like the smaller lighter bikes in the city. They stop quicker. That Outlook with the Dual Bafangs is my favorite city bike. That and the 20" Turbo. I like them both the same.


So what do you think will go faster. The 20" Turbo in the video with the 13S pack or the Giant Roam with the 500W 700c e bikeling motor and 10S pack ??? I think it will be real close. It has been several years since running the 700C motor but I remember it was fast. My guess is 25 mph. Wee will see.

If you do happen to get a chance to check out the cheap e bay spot welders please let me know as it is at the post office and the nickel strip will be there in a few days. Lots of reviews on those spot welders. Safety is my biggest concern.

Not sure if you guys saw these videos or not. They are of the 1,800W brushless motor before the power cut out and got the flat a week ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRCNO02rYT4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVDuYwl7mAI

The second video proves two things. It is a 30 mph bike. Mabye even 31 0r 32 mph as I had to let off the throttle as it was dark and did not want to hit a deep pothole at 30 mph. Notice the 29.5 on the speedo. It also proves the 13S pack is a 1,200 watt battery as 1,0OO W wont do 30 MPH due to that 15 or 20% heat loss DA pointed out so I did get my moneys worth on that pack.



If it is possible I might hook up those power modules to the 1,500W controller. I still have to test it with the 13S pack. It cut out when I used the 10S - 8P pack and could have been the LVC due to voltage SAG. That 1,800 watt motor will pull the amps.

Thanks.

LC. out.