new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
latecurtis
100 MW
The links for these motors were posted yesterday. Thanks.
latecurtis
100 MW
As The Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
I took a picture of the Currie pick up truck fully loaded but forgot to put it on my flash drive. I also combined the other two packs last night. I will be charging them tonight and running the lipo packs tomorrow if it is not raining. I did not call the guy or show up yesterday to sell the Specialized. I am not really interested in selling one of my e bikes either. Too much time and work to sell. I am more interested in building a third e bike as cheap as possible and running it most of the time.
The reason for that is I am afraid that sooner or later my luck may run out and I might run into an asshole pig that knows about the state e bike law and I might get my bike taken. I heard it is a $1,000 fine and if not paid there is no chance of getting the bike back. I am looking to build the Specialized as I only have $43 invested in it so far. I am thinking about building it as cheap as possible and running it most of the time.
I am also thinking about a 24" heavy duty frame. Something I can ride on the sidewalks a lot which are even in worse shape than the roads in 75% of the city. Also something I can just run over pot holes with. Shocks and heavy duty suspension. 24" is easier to haul upstairs also but I may keep it downstairs and run it most of the time. These builds are all about very low budget. I don't want to lose the bikes I have a lot of money into. I will keep them and use them only when necessary.
The Currie is great for hauling really heavy loads. The Trek is good for really long range as the controller allows me to switch from Lipo to SLA. Plus there are two baskets front and rear. Front for the Lipo and rear for the SLAs. The third and possibly forth build will be for e biking where I don't need to haul heavy loads or travel long distances. At least one of the bikes will be for traveling over very rough roads and sidewalks. The Specialized wont do that but will be good for bike trails. It will be pedal assist as there are bike trail cops also.
The geared hub motor DA. said is a good idea but too much money. The 350W motor kit for $50 is better price wise. The only way I would buy a geared hub motor is if I could get it used for $50 to $80. I am looking at the $50 kit and saddle bags on the back to hide the motor some how. The motor can mount to the frame of the rear rack similar to the Currie. It wont stick out as much so a saddle bag may go over it with ventilation underneath somehow.
As far as how to power the cheap builds I am thinking about 4s lipo maybe. I will have to look. I should get about 18mph with 28.8V where I may only get 13 or 14mph with 24V SLAs. Also 24V SLAs are heavy. I guess two 12Ah SLAs would be good for back up. I really wish there were more battery options for e bikes. LIFEPO4 is too expensive. Lipo is dangerous and needs a Lipo bag and metal box. I do have a second metal cash box I am not using though with the holes already cut out. I just don't know if 6 - 4s packs will fit into it. I know four 4s packs will though. That and two 15Ah SLAs would get me 8 or 9 miles I guess.
I have a lot of things to work out including funds. Any feedback on really low budget builds would be helpful. The rock bottom minimum price to convert a bike to electric. Budget builds. Post anything that relates to that please. I still want to build a 45mph bike but at least one budget build must come first.
Thanks. LC. out.
I took a picture of the Currie pick up truck fully loaded but forgot to put it on my flash drive. I also combined the other two packs last night. I will be charging them tonight and running the lipo packs tomorrow if it is not raining. I did not call the guy or show up yesterday to sell the Specialized. I am not really interested in selling one of my e bikes either. Too much time and work to sell. I am more interested in building a third e bike as cheap as possible and running it most of the time.
The reason for that is I am afraid that sooner or later my luck may run out and I might run into an asshole pig that knows about the state e bike law and I might get my bike taken. I heard it is a $1,000 fine and if not paid there is no chance of getting the bike back. I am looking to build the Specialized as I only have $43 invested in it so far. I am thinking about building it as cheap as possible and running it most of the time.
I am also thinking about a 24" heavy duty frame. Something I can ride on the sidewalks a lot which are even in worse shape than the roads in 75% of the city. Also something I can just run over pot holes with. Shocks and heavy duty suspension. 24" is easier to haul upstairs also but I may keep it downstairs and run it most of the time. These builds are all about very low budget. I don't want to lose the bikes I have a lot of money into. I will keep them and use them only when necessary.
The Currie is great for hauling really heavy loads. The Trek is good for really long range as the controller allows me to switch from Lipo to SLA. Plus there are two baskets front and rear. Front for the Lipo and rear for the SLAs. The third and possibly forth build will be for e biking where I don't need to haul heavy loads or travel long distances. At least one of the bikes will be for traveling over very rough roads and sidewalks. The Specialized wont do that but will be good for bike trails. It will be pedal assist as there are bike trail cops also.
The geared hub motor DA. said is a good idea but too much money. The 350W motor kit for $50 is better price wise. The only way I would buy a geared hub motor is if I could get it used for $50 to $80. I am looking at the $50 kit and saddle bags on the back to hide the motor some how. The motor can mount to the frame of the rear rack similar to the Currie. It wont stick out as much so a saddle bag may go over it with ventilation underneath somehow.
As far as how to power the cheap builds I am thinking about 4s lipo maybe. I will have to look. I should get about 18mph with 28.8V where I may only get 13 or 14mph with 24V SLAs. Also 24V SLAs are heavy. I guess two 12Ah SLAs would be good for back up. I really wish there were more battery options for e bikes. LIFEPO4 is too expensive. Lipo is dangerous and needs a Lipo bag and metal box. I do have a second metal cash box I am not using though with the holes already cut out. I just don't know if 6 - 4s packs will fit into it. I know four 4s packs will though. That and two 15Ah SLAs would get me 8 or 9 miles I guess.
I have a lot of things to work out including funds. Any feedback on really low budget builds would be helpful. The rock bottom minimum price to convert a bike to electric. Budget builds. Post anything that relates to that please. I still want to build a 45mph bike but at least one budget build must come first.
Thanks. LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I am also interested in the difference between a regular mountain bike and a race bike. Can someone please explain that to me as when I do build a 45mph bike it will need to be a race bike.
Thanks. LC. out.
Thanks. LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
"Race Bike" is smooth high pressure tires but most importantly ...latecurtis said:
High seat and rider hunched down over low handlebars.
Difference is largely aerodynamics!
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 4/27
It started raining today after I posted at the library. I will charge the two packs tomorrow. The picture shows the terminals. Packs 1 and 2 are now pack1 and packs 3 and 4 are now pack 2. I will be ordering the second balancer soon and both will be gorilla taped to the cash box and plugged in while running the bike instead of Lipo alarms.
The other picture is my Currie pickup truck. Ten dollars’ worth of cans. I can also haul 50 to 60 pounds of laundry or groceries. The SLAs mounted in the frame towards the front help to keep the bike stabilized. The Currie has hauled tons of stuff since I have had it. Not to mention more beer than in a brewery.
The picture of my dryer is where I store the cash box with the Lipo packs inside the lipo bag. It is the safest place I can think of in my apartment. The hat on the top of the dryer I am proud to say is a New England Patriots hat. In case you did not know they are the greatest team in football. Tom Brady should run for president. LOL. Thanks. LC. out.
4/28
Just got back from the doctors with the currie. It is not raining today so I am Lilo balance charging the Lipo packs this afternoon. The pictures show the process going smoothly. It is the first time operating the Dell power supply at 3A. It has been 22 minutes and the power supply is barley warm. The cells are up to 3.92V. I am happy with the set up. I will be running the Lipos Friday for the 5.2 mile round trip to the Home depot. I just hope it does not rain Friday May first.
I also plan on hiding the batteries on the Currie by installing saddle bags over the battery compartment in the frame. Also I want to try and hide the MY1020 motor by installing a milk crate around it. I am sick of the piss poor brakes on the Currie. I want all new brakes. I am going to talk to Doug about that. I also need a derailleur installed on the Trek. I need to be able to pedal whenever I see the police. That is very important.
Also there is a really slow leak on the front tire of the Trek. I will need to pump it up before running it. I may want to replace the tube as it was a terrible patch job. I was wondering about flat prevention. There are a lot of products out there now. I heard that slime tubes are total garbage.
What about the tube guards that goes over the tube or inside the tire. Which brand is the best and dont effect the handling of the bike? I would like get a tube protector when I replace the tube in the front of the Trek. If I can afford it I may order 4 of them and four good quality tubes for both e bikes.
Not only does this city have millions of pot holes there is a lot of broken glass around. When I can afford it I will get top quality tires also. What brand of tube would be good? I can’t afford the top brand but don’t want to cheap out and get the Bell brand Wall-Mart sells either. I would rather order something half way decent online. Please let me know or post some links for quality tires and tubes that will prevent flats.
Thanks. LC. out.
It started raining today after I posted at the library. I will charge the two packs tomorrow. The picture shows the terminals. Packs 1 and 2 are now pack1 and packs 3 and 4 are now pack 2. I will be ordering the second balancer soon and both will be gorilla taped to the cash box and plugged in while running the bike instead of Lipo alarms.
The other picture is my Currie pickup truck. Ten dollars’ worth of cans. I can also haul 50 to 60 pounds of laundry or groceries. The SLAs mounted in the frame towards the front help to keep the bike stabilized. The Currie has hauled tons of stuff since I have had it. Not to mention more beer than in a brewery.
The picture of my dryer is where I store the cash box with the Lipo packs inside the lipo bag. It is the safest place I can think of in my apartment. The hat on the top of the dryer I am proud to say is a New England Patriots hat. In case you did not know they are the greatest team in football. Tom Brady should run for president. LOL. Thanks. LC. out.
4/28
Just got back from the doctors with the currie. It is not raining today so I am Lilo balance charging the Lipo packs this afternoon. The pictures show the process going smoothly. It is the first time operating the Dell power supply at 3A. It has been 22 minutes and the power supply is barley warm. The cells are up to 3.92V. I am happy with the set up. I will be running the Lipos Friday for the 5.2 mile round trip to the Home depot. I just hope it does not rain Friday May first.
I also plan on hiding the batteries on the Currie by installing saddle bags over the battery compartment in the frame. Also I want to try and hide the MY1020 motor by installing a milk crate around it. I am sick of the piss poor brakes on the Currie. I want all new brakes. I am going to talk to Doug about that. I also need a derailleur installed on the Trek. I need to be able to pedal whenever I see the police. That is very important.
Also there is a really slow leak on the front tire of the Trek. I will need to pump it up before running it. I may want to replace the tube as it was a terrible patch job. I was wondering about flat prevention. There are a lot of products out there now. I heard that slime tubes are total garbage.
What about the tube guards that goes over the tube or inside the tire. Which brand is the best and dont effect the handling of the bike? I would like get a tube protector when I replace the tube in the front of the Trek. If I can afford it I may order 4 of them and four good quality tubes for both e bikes.
Not only does this city have millions of pot holes there is a lot of broken glass around. When I can afford it I will get top quality tires also. What brand of tube would be good? I can’t afford the top brand but don’t want to cheap out and get the Bell brand Wall-Mart sells either. I would rather order something half way decent online. Please let me know or post some links for quality tires and tubes that will prevent flats.
Thanks. LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
4/29
I cant see how raising the seat higher would improve aerodynamics. I like the seat a little high anyway but not too high. Thanks. LC. out.
I cant see how raising the seat higher would improve aerodynamics. I like the seat a little high anyway but not too high. Thanks. LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I should be getting my disability soon. I am thinking about getting a 20 kilowatt golden motor and controller. I want to do an electric car or truck conversion. I know that this deserves a new post. DA. How knowledgeable are you on e car conversions? I know that I will need to find the lightest vehicle possible. You live in NY. state right? What do you know about DMV laws on electric car conversions? I will be researching very lightweight pick up trucks. I am looking to haul up to 300 pounds of scrap metal. The place where I cash it in is only a mile away from where I live. I will only need a 50 mile range @ legal highway speeds. I think 45mph is the slowest speed allowed on main roads (not thruway). If that is so then 45mph for 50 miles will work for now. I would like to extend that to 100 miles@ 45mph later on.
I am not ruling out a hybrid conversion adding the 20 kilowatt motor to the existing drive train of a gas powered truck. It would only need a 20 or 30 mile range then and the alternator on the gas engine could charge the batteries for the electric motor. Eventually I would lose the gas engine but to start it may be a more practical approach. Please DA. let me know. I will start the new post on this soon. I am serious about this. I have mastered e bike building and am ready to move on to the next level. Thanks. LC. out.
I am not ruling out a hybrid conversion adding the 20 kilowatt motor to the existing drive train of a gas powered truck. It would only need a 20 or 30 mile range then and the alternator on the gas engine could charge the batteries for the electric motor. Eventually I would lose the gas engine but to start it may be a more practical approach. Please DA. let me know. I will start the new post on this soon. I am serious about this. I have mastered e bike building and am ready to move on to the next level. Thanks. LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
"Racing Bike"latecurtis said:
"Raising seat"? ... combined with hunching low over the handle bars! ... places the body in a horizontal position ...
Thus adopting a more aerodynamic posture >> less wind resistance = more speed from less motor output!
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
I ran the lipos about four miles Thursday and two miles yesterday. The cells were around 3.74V when I put them away in the dryer yesterday. I ran the SLAs about 5 miles but only at about 10mph. They were around 12.75V when I put them on charge last night. All my batteries are doing good. I will need to work on the brakes and pedal gears this month on the bikes.
I looked hard at motors yesterday instead of posting. I almost bought a 350W motor for the Specialized but backed out at the last minute. I should wait until I can afford a small light geared hub motor like DA said. I am not building anything this month. There was a Haro at the bike club two weeks ago but they would not sell it for $30. They wanted to fix it up to get more for it. That kind of discouraged me. I still want a 24" bike. It will have mountain bike tires but I will get smoother non aggressive tread. if that is all I need for a race bike plus leaning over the handle bars then I am in.
I still want to build a 40+mph bike this summer. The 1,500W golden motor should work at 60V. I may get my SSI this summer. I got a hearing coming up in June. I will need to do extensive research on electric car and truck conversions. I will get about $5,000 if I win my appeal. $4,000 will go for an electric vehicle conversion. $1,000 will go to build a 40mph race bike. If I do the electric truck first I can take the 24" bike to my brother in laws the welder and he can extend the forks and get it sand blasted and chrome plated. It will then be ready for the golden motor. It will be rear driven. My custom 24" race bike. I will settle with no less than a Haro.
If e bikes were legal I would put the front hub motor on the front of the Currie and 86 the Trek. I would also put the 15 tooth motor sprocket on it and run both motors. The hub motor with the Lipo packs and the MY1020 motor at 60V. That would get me 40mph with two throttles. It would also get me a ticket and I could lose the bike. Both motors would be lost. That is why I am not doing it. I am just going to wait until I get more money and maintain and upgrade brakes on both bikes and get a derailleur and pedal gears going for the Trek. I will also be doing some walking when I am not in a lot of pain. I need exercise. I need to lose weight. I am obese. e bikes cant help me with that. I need to walk when I can.
Thanks. LC out.
I ran the lipos about four miles Thursday and two miles yesterday. The cells were around 3.74V when I put them away in the dryer yesterday. I ran the SLAs about 5 miles but only at about 10mph. They were around 12.75V when I put them on charge last night. All my batteries are doing good. I will need to work on the brakes and pedal gears this month on the bikes.
I looked hard at motors yesterday instead of posting. I almost bought a 350W motor for the Specialized but backed out at the last minute. I should wait until I can afford a small light geared hub motor like DA said. I am not building anything this month. There was a Haro at the bike club two weeks ago but they would not sell it for $30. They wanted to fix it up to get more for it. That kind of discouraged me. I still want a 24" bike. It will have mountain bike tires but I will get smoother non aggressive tread. if that is all I need for a race bike plus leaning over the handle bars then I am in.
I still want to build a 40+mph bike this summer. The 1,500W golden motor should work at 60V. I may get my SSI this summer. I got a hearing coming up in June. I will need to do extensive research on electric car and truck conversions. I will get about $5,000 if I win my appeal. $4,000 will go for an electric vehicle conversion. $1,000 will go to build a 40mph race bike. If I do the electric truck first I can take the 24" bike to my brother in laws the welder and he can extend the forks and get it sand blasted and chrome plated. It will then be ready for the golden motor. It will be rear driven. My custom 24" race bike. I will settle with no less than a Haro.
If e bikes were legal I would put the front hub motor on the front of the Currie and 86 the Trek. I would also put the 15 tooth motor sprocket on it and run both motors. The hub motor with the Lipo packs and the MY1020 motor at 60V. That would get me 40mph with two throttles. It would also get me a ticket and I could lose the bike. Both motors would be lost. That is why I am not doing it. I am just going to wait until I get more money and maintain and upgrade brakes on both bikes and get a derailleur and pedal gears going for the Trek. I will also be doing some walking when I am not in a lot of pain. I need exercise. I need to lose weight. I am obese. e bikes cant help me with that. I need to walk when I can.
Thanks. LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Check out the tires I linked to in the eBike Toolbox.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Street-Tire-Kevlar-bead/dp/B007XZ5E74/ref=sr_1_7/192-0203161-9009318?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1430771728&sr=1-7&keywords=Schwinn+Kevlar
I got the link from the tool box. These are $18 but worth it. Thanks DA.
I got the link from the tool box. These are $18 but worth it. Thanks DA.
latecurtis
100 MW
I will get the free shipping also as it will be over $35.
LC. out.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=731&q=50mph+e+bike+motor&oq=50mph+e+bike+motor&gs_l=img.3...3467.11897.0.12460.18.13.0.5.0.0.116.1203.10j3.13.0.msedr...0...1ac.1.64.img..6.12.1105.WoPBkhjQwwg#imgrc=cYQcHD7rDHpeCM%253A%3BSt43_9dZJz-MRM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.electricbike.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2012%252F05%252Fmoto-1024x767.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.electricbike.com%252Fastro%252F%3B1024%3B767
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.bikes2udirect.com/B0837.html?specs=1
I guess golden motor is out and Astro motor is in. There is a lot of information on the link DA. It is very interesting. Check out the video. I really like what I see there. Please check it out and post what you think of it. I typed in 50mph e bike motors in google and it popped up. It looks like I may be able to out run a cop after all sometime in the future.
I guess golden motor is out and Astro motor is in. There is a lot of information on the link DA. It is very interesting. Check out the video. I really like what I see there. Please check it out and post what you think of it. I typed in 50mph e bike motors in google and it popped up. It looks like I may be able to out run a cop after all sometime in the future.
latecurtis
100 MW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYIzll3rggo
That's what I'm talking about. LOL :lol:
That's what I'm talking about. LOL :lol:
DrkAngel
1 GW
Didn't recommend the skinny little tires.
With the weight and bad streets, I would recommend the big cruiser tires.
Not on sale, right now, but "Comfort" model seems the best "all purpose" type.
3 tires (to cover $35 for free shipping) isn't as wasteful as it seems. Drive tire wears twice as fast!
With the weight and bad streets, I would recommend the big cruiser tires.
Not on sale, right now, but "Comfort" model seems the best "all purpose" type.
3 tires (to cover $35 for free shipping) isn't as wasteful as it seems. Drive tire wears twice as fast!
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo fire burns.
Thanks for the information. I hope you checked out the video. The one where the e bike totally out accelerated the motor cycles. It is a great time we live in. The only thing we can hope for is newer battery technology. Batteries that have 10 times the range as Lipo at the same size and similar weight. It will eventually make all gas operated vehicle's obsolete. Imagine a 50 pound electric car battery that goes 100 or 200 miles on a charge with 1,000 or more charge cycles for a few hundred dollars. Or a 5 pound e bike pack that goes 100 miles on a charge@ 50 or 60V. I think that in the next 10 or 15 years it may happen.
I never learned how to ride a gas motorcycle. I don't know how to drive a standard car either. I also hate how loud gas motorcycles are. Noise pollution is a constant annoyance here in the city. I would love nothing better than to blow past a big loud motorcycle with a really fast e bike. I heard that when taking off with a 3 kilowatt or higher bike that one must go easy on the throttle. I am surprised that there is not a special throttle or controller that would prevent the bike from spinning out or the front end raising up and the bike flipping backwards with rear drive motors. There could be a sensor which could be implemented in the controller or the throttle that would prevent that. It would be similar to traction control technology already used in later model cars and trucks.
I was thinking that with a front hub motor say 1 kilowatt like the one would solve the problem if I were to build a 3+ kilowatt rear drive motor. I would simply engage the front motor first before carefully using the throttle hooked up to the rear motor. Also the weight of the front hub motor like the one I currently have would keep the front wheel on the ground.
I was offered $400 cash for the Currie last night on my way back from Wall-Mart and I turned it down. I told the guy about the Trek and he wants to see it. He don't know much about e bikes. He has a nice 2007 Hard Rock Specialized. He could put the front kit on it but I decided I am not selling. I will tell him to call golden motor and order a Magic Pie for his Specialized. I would have to get more than it is worth new. Sunder paid about $300 for the kit and I have been running it for six months now. I don't think he would like the way I hooked up the Lipos either and if I threw in the SLAs Then I would be without a bike until I upgrade the Currie to 48V as it wont run on the Lipos.
That plus the fact is two e bikes are better than one. I may not use the Trek and front kit as much as the Currie but if the Currie breaks down I still have a reliable long range bike for back up until I get the Currie fixed. I may find another bike for the front kit though if I cant get higher handlebars for the Trek. The Currie has a much better seat and handles much better with the taller handlebars than the Trek. So much for building a race bike. I like the seat a little high but hate bending over to reach the handlebars.
What I would like to build is a 24" frame with the seat lower and the handlebars a little high and pegs for my feet. Also a seat with a backrest similar to a recumbent bike. A 5 kilowatt motor capable of 50+mph on the rear and a geared hub motor about 800W for the front for take off so I don't flip the bike like I said earlier. Two throttles and separate batteries for each motor. Disk brakes on the front and rear. About 60 - 70 pounds so it don't fly away also. Three 10 Ah SLAs for the front geared hub motor mounted low on the frame and four of those 16000mah 6s packs in parallel series like the packs I have now should work for a 5 kilowatt motor on the back.
What are the minimum battery requirements for a 5 kilowatt 60mph e bike. Would 6 of those 16000mah packs work in parallel series. If not what type of battery set up would work. I really want to build a fast e bike like Live for Physics. That dude is legendary. I want to go motorcycle hunting. I want a bike that will dust most motor cycles for at least 1/8 of a mile. I want to feel the adrenaline rush going 60+ mph on an e bike.
Thanks. LC out
Thanks for the information. I hope you checked out the video. The one where the e bike totally out accelerated the motor cycles. It is a great time we live in. The only thing we can hope for is newer battery technology. Batteries that have 10 times the range as Lipo at the same size and similar weight. It will eventually make all gas operated vehicle's obsolete. Imagine a 50 pound electric car battery that goes 100 or 200 miles on a charge with 1,000 or more charge cycles for a few hundred dollars. Or a 5 pound e bike pack that goes 100 miles on a charge@ 50 or 60V. I think that in the next 10 or 15 years it may happen.
I never learned how to ride a gas motorcycle. I don't know how to drive a standard car either. I also hate how loud gas motorcycles are. Noise pollution is a constant annoyance here in the city. I would love nothing better than to blow past a big loud motorcycle with a really fast e bike. I heard that when taking off with a 3 kilowatt or higher bike that one must go easy on the throttle. I am surprised that there is not a special throttle or controller that would prevent the bike from spinning out or the front end raising up and the bike flipping backwards with rear drive motors. There could be a sensor which could be implemented in the controller or the throttle that would prevent that. It would be similar to traction control technology already used in later model cars and trucks.
I was thinking that with a front hub motor say 1 kilowatt like the one would solve the problem if I were to build a 3+ kilowatt rear drive motor. I would simply engage the front motor first before carefully using the throttle hooked up to the rear motor. Also the weight of the front hub motor like the one I currently have would keep the front wheel on the ground.
I was offered $400 cash for the Currie last night on my way back from Wall-Mart and I turned it down. I told the guy about the Trek and he wants to see it. He don't know much about e bikes. He has a nice 2007 Hard Rock Specialized. He could put the front kit on it but I decided I am not selling. I will tell him to call golden motor and order a Magic Pie for his Specialized. I would have to get more than it is worth new. Sunder paid about $300 for the kit and I have been running it for six months now. I don't think he would like the way I hooked up the Lipos either and if I threw in the SLAs Then I would be without a bike until I upgrade the Currie to 48V as it wont run on the Lipos.
That plus the fact is two e bikes are better than one. I may not use the Trek and front kit as much as the Currie but if the Currie breaks down I still have a reliable long range bike for back up until I get the Currie fixed. I may find another bike for the front kit though if I cant get higher handlebars for the Trek. The Currie has a much better seat and handles much better with the taller handlebars than the Trek. So much for building a race bike. I like the seat a little high but hate bending over to reach the handlebars.
What I would like to build is a 24" frame with the seat lower and the handlebars a little high and pegs for my feet. Also a seat with a backrest similar to a recumbent bike. A 5 kilowatt motor capable of 50+mph on the rear and a geared hub motor about 800W for the front for take off so I don't flip the bike like I said earlier. Two throttles and separate batteries for each motor. Disk brakes on the front and rear. About 60 - 70 pounds so it don't fly away also. Three 10 Ah SLAs for the front geared hub motor mounted low on the frame and four of those 16000mah 6s packs in parallel series like the packs I have now should work for a 5 kilowatt motor on the back.
What are the minimum battery requirements for a 5 kilowatt 60mph e bike. Would 6 of those 16000mah packs work in parallel series. If not what type of battery set up would work. I really want to build a fast e bike like Live for Physics. That dude is legendary. I want to go motorcycle hunting. I want a bike that will dust most motor cycles for at least 1/8 of a mile. I want to feel the adrenaline rush going 60+ mph on an e bike.
Thanks. LC out
latecurtis
100 MW
I just checked out some of the newer battery technology currently under development. Solid state batteries sound promising. If they develop a lightweight battery powerful enough an e bike that will fly could happen next. It would be bolted to the rear rack bolted to the frame. When deployed it would turn the e bike into a helicopter with super light weight carbon fiber propellers for short range flight. It would enable one to fly over bulky cars and trucks that get in the way when they stop for traffic lights and stop signs or other nonsense. It would also come in handy when some ass hole cop wants to pull you over for operating an illegal electric bike at unsafe speeds. by by piggy. Don't forget to write. :lol: :lol: :lol:
DrkAngel
1 GW
Keep the eZip.
No longer produced so might become a "classic". LOL
No longer produced so might become a "classic". LOL
DrkAngel
1 GW
If you must ...
Dual motor bike (50mph) sounds like something everyone wants to try ... once!
1st
PM me for information on listing me as your life insurance beneficiary!
2nd
Attach 50mph capable speedometer.
Make sure all bike components are optimal and of best possible condition-reliability!
Leather up, helmet, neck brace, full body leather, extra knee and elbow pads.
Take bike to steepest hill you can find that dips into valley and back up hill.
Progressively go higher up hill till coasting lets you hit 50mph. You can stop at any time ...
Get it out of your system! ... ?
3rd
Not good enough?
Try emergency stop from 50mph as bike starts into fairly level dip ... note time and distance to stop!
Imagine trying to stop from 50mph, in cross traffic or with unwary pedestrians ... with an extra 100lb of motors and batteries.
Dual motor bike (50mph) sounds like something everyone wants to try ... once!
1st
PM me for information on listing me as your life insurance beneficiary!
2nd
Attach 50mph capable speedometer.
Make sure all bike components are optimal and of best possible condition-reliability!
Leather up, helmet, neck brace, full body leather, extra knee and elbow pads.
Take bike to steepest hill you can find that dips into valley and back up hill.
Progressively go higher up hill till coasting lets you hit 50mph. You can stop at any time ...
Get it out of your system! ... ?
3rd
Not good enough?
Try emergency stop from 50mph as bike starts into fairly level dip ... note time and distance to stop!
Imagine trying to stop from 50mph, in cross traffic or with unwary pedestrians ... with an extra 100lb of motors and batteries.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Please consider ...
Bikes are designed to carry around ≤240lb of weight at ≤20mph.
Tires, wheels, spokes, hubs, axles, forks, steering column, frame, brakes etc, have some safety margin built in, but you are talking motorcycle strength and durability required.
Failure of any single component at 50mph is liable to be fatal!
Bikes are designed to carry around ≤240lb of weight at ≤20mph.
Tires, wheels, spokes, hubs, axles, forks, steering column, frame, brakes etc, have some safety margin built in, but you are talking motorcycle strength and durability required.
Failure of any single component at 50mph is liable to be fatal!
DAND214
10 MW
+1slacker said:da,very good advice just hope op listens.
Dan
- Status
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